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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK everyone, here's the scoop. I tried asking these questions attached to someone else's 1356 thread, and did not seem to get anywhere.

So, I'm putting this up once again, as a fresh thread. Here is the scoop....tired of 1356 electric, as it's been problematic over the last 16 months. secured a manual Tcase from a 1995 Bronco (so it has the flange already). This case likely has about 80k on it (when it was pulled from the truck). The bronco also had auto hubs and was fairly stock when pulled, so the guess is it certainly was not worked too much given the mileage. The local friend I bought it from thought it was the issue with a drivetrain noise he had. Being pretty certain (we all know how that goes) he bought another used manual tcase and swapped it. d-train noise still there, and as it turned out it was the rear pinion. So this original case of his I bought from him.

Now, the case is in half, part of which is occupying my spare bedroom.:popc1:

I have searched the following...all words dealing with 1356 borg warner transfer case and plastic, on yahoo. I searched all threads here, and thanks to Miesk5 have searched a 1/2 dozen more links on the 1356. I am very familiar with Steve83's stuff on this as well. My questions to Steve, Keith, DCskater, anyone??? is as follows:

Am I the only one to have a plastic outer arm like this:


I don't know if my current 1356 electric in my vehicle has this plastic outer arm, which as best I can tell engages a clutch for the chain/and/or/sychros the front to rear with shift on the fly 4hi? My inner arm is just like everone else's in pics I've seen(this arm does the shift fork duties). The inner arm, in playing with the shifter while apart, is the one that seems to control and take all the forces, so what do you all think of this plastic outer arm, and has anyone ever run across one before??

I plan on calling drivetrain.com to ask their opinion of this, and if it's preferable to swap in the cast piece while it is apart.

Does anyone have any opinion of why this would have changed? I don't believe cost savings is at work here. Miesk's page showed supposedly another 1995 t case, but it did not have this.

Don't anyone say weight savings. :goodfinge

Wonder if only the 150/Bronco vs 250/350 received this?

Why am I the only one to have discovered this?:doh0715:
Could this molded plastic last longer since the outer arm still had to have some molded plastic tips in it that wore out? Could it provide a smoother operation? OPINION Please?????

On another note, Jermil, you were right, my oil pump arm locator housing ribs were slightly worn, that one spot shown below is similar to other's pics of wear, though it has a long way to go to wear through, but I still plan on "the fix" as done by KL:




At this point I plan to buy this stuff for rebuild:
From Steve's pics, if he can tell me where to buy...The oil pump pickup hose, and the pump retainer arm.

and I will also be buying the inner shifter fork pad kit, adapter to transfer case gasket, input and front and rear output shaft seals. And that's it's. The case is in really good shape.

oh, ONE MORE QUESTION:
The input shaft seal....must this seal be popped and replaced from the inside? In other words, does this seal require removal of the planetary?
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Steve83 said:
Just for the record: I have no idea on any of this - I've never had to open a t-case. But if you got any of the free CDs, most of it will be in there.

I doubt you'll find a definitive answer on the plastic arm, unless you track down a Borg-Warner engineer or cost analyst who worked on that design.
Interesting. I thought it was you...yes, I've seen your Superford schematics, but for some reason, I thought this was [email protected]
http://www.wildercafe.com/fordtech/

Just sounded like your writing as well.:duh

Oh, and I saw the stuff on the free CD's, when that site is open again, I'll try, but I can almost guarantee you it won't show/discuss the plastic arm.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Steve83 said:
I don't know why I put "...most of it..." :shrug The only thing the CD will answer is how the seal goes in.



...and there it is! :D

BTW
The only place I'm not "Steve83" is on ebay. I'm "untod" there. I tried to get the name there, but dude wouldn't give it up even though he's no more active than I am.
If I were you, I would have gone with Steve83.7 :doh0715:

Excellent, that answers that. I have a slider hammer, no seal puller though, but in looking at it, looks pretty much like I would use about the same procedure I would with an inner hub seal, 'cept I have part of the input shaft in the way. I don't use any puller stuff for those.:toothless
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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15,075 Posts
Shadow, that seal was not tough to get out. I bought a $7 seal puller from Discount Auto, it kind of looks like an ice axe, except flat, if that makes any sense. That seal will pull right out.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
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15,075 Posts
That's it. My description was pretty close...:toothless
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
jermil01 said:
That's it. My description was pretty close...:toothless
Your description was fine, but I still was having visual difficulty, now I see.

I'm going to call a drivetrian place that sells 1356 parts and ask them about the plastic arm, since I ain't gittin' no opinions.
 
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