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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As most of you know, I had to give up my 79 SHTF Bronco. It was just too much work for me physically, unfortunately. I am just no good at body work, cutting, welding and all that jazz. But it went to a good home with Mr. El Kabong himself taking it on March 3rd, 2020. I am looking forward to seeing what he can do with it.

That being said, I needed a truck of some variety that was in much better shape...or so were the plans.

On February 7th, my birthday, I hopped on a train from Oceanside, CA to Fresno, CA to pick up what i thought was a nice, reliable 1995 F150 Extra Cab Short Bed, 4.9L, 5-speed, 4x4 truck. I knew it had a salvage title and the CarFax said as much. It had lived it's whole life in Fresno so I knew I didn't have to deal with rust like I had before on the 79 Bronco. The title was rebuilt and inspected by the State of California so I figured it was ok. Sure enough, I hopped off the train, handed the man the cash and then started on my trip home.

Things I noticed right off the bat: Man, this thing has a weird clutch release point and it is super stiff! And man, this engine sounds strange and feels kind of weak. So I stopped at a Walmart, grabbed some oil and coolant and made sure the vitals were good before driving back home. Well, the coolant was low so I topped that off. And the oil was whipped and frothy. Uh oh. That seems like a headgasket leak to me. I figured that wasn't the end of the world. I can slap a new headgasket on no issues. Oh, and I have an exhaust leak to track down too. Too long in the cab and zzzzzz. I headed home and showed up about 2 AM.

Here are the initial pics I took the next day.
IMG_20200208_150406519_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200208_150352959_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200208_150343720_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200208_150335816_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I am not crazy about red, but its fine. Its a truck. LOL

But I noticed I had some serious problems with the engine after about a month of ownership. It just struggled to move out of its own way and every time I would check the oil, I would have to add some more. But I had no black smoke out the tail pipe. I was very confused.

First thing I did to it was try and figure out why the clutch pedal was so stiff. I read that besides the clutch being bad itself, that after a bunch of miles the pedal assembly can be worn out. You can rebuild it with new bushings but the damned things can be so worn that the new bushings die quickly. For $130 new, I installed a new set of pedals. Same problem. Shit.

Now, the previous owner's dad borrowed the truck and was hauling tons of sand for a whole day. Apparently they overloaded the thing and the right rear wheel studs sheered off completely while loaded causing the damage to the back of the truck. So I did the right thing and tried to pound some of that out. I need to take some more pics, but this is what I started with.

IMG_20200314_174700826_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I then proceeded to ditch all of the smog equipment to see if that was causing the engine to run terribly. There was no check engine light mind you. And it just passed smog somehow. I changed the plugs, the wires, distributor cap, rotor, etc. Same situation. So I grabbed my thermal lazer gun thingy and cylinder 5 was not really running so hot. I wasn't able to complete a compression test, so I soldiered on. I changed the oil and replaced the filter and to my amazement, the thing only had 1.5 quarts of oil in her. Holeeshitballs. Then I crawled under the truck and saw this:

IMG_20200314_174419100 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Apparently the entire underside of the truck is now rustproofed. Blowby. Tons and tons of blowby. The entire underside of the hood, drivers fender well, brake booster, clutch master, etc is nicely lubricated.

I pulled the valve cover to try and see if a rocker was loose. They all checked out fine.
IMG_20200323_142535520 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I removed the air filter and this is what I was greeted to.
IMG_20200321_111347714 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I had ordered new engine mounts and transmission mounts and decided to install the new "Bruce Jenner" mount. Here is the old one. It was pooched. Just fell apart and of course, it is covered in oil.
IMG_20200318_181642438_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Here is the passenger side engine mount. It was trashed too.
IMG_20200321_180127695 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I was working at Spy Optic doing some consulting for them when the whole Coronavirus thing hit the fan and the parent company apparently decided to fire all of the consultants working for them. So I am one of the now jobless. My last day was March 20th and I quickly decided to find a new engine for the truck now that I had the time. The long term goal is a 4BT just like I was going to in the 79 Bronco, but I can't afford that kind of cash right now. So I went and found a 92 4.9L with 141K on it for $600. Sold. The wife and I headed down to El Cajon to get the new to me engine. You can barely see it in the mirror.

IMG_20200325_121212672_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

The blow by was so bad that in the 100 mile round trip to get the engine, I had only 2.5 quarts left of 6 upon draining the sump for the swap.

So for the tear down, I wanted to try and remove the front core support. I had heard it was easier that way. Well...I won't do it again. It took the better part of a day to get it undressed so to speak and a 2 day project took 4 because of that. I didn't take a lot of pictures of the swap, but I did take some pics of the gnarly stuff.

Here is the engine bay before power washing.
IMG_20200328_132825710_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200328_132839813_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Old mill out and on the ground.
IMG_20200328_132845976_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Old engine in the foreground. New in the aft. I installed a new rear main seal while I was at it.
IMG_20200328_132852926_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

There is your clutch problem Paul...
IMG_20200328_141457181 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

This pic is for me to figure out if the engine stands on the 95 4.9l are the same as the 80-86 which bolt up to the 4BT easy.
IMG_20200328_142813809 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

My new Luk Clutch Kit came in and I used the flywheel on the donor engine (it was fine) and I forgot that I needed to get a new slave cylinder for the M5OD-R2. Another jaunt to Autozone and that was purchased. Everyone says that bleeding them sucks. Well, I bought one of those Motive Power Bleeders years ago and let me tell you, bleeding anything is easy with that thing.

The parts I swapped over to the new engine were many: First, I deleted the smog pump completely. Then I swapped alternators from the 92 model to my 95 which I think is a 3G alternator. It looks different anyway. Then the power steering and AC compressor were left on the bracket and I had to swap studs for these as the 95 were longer and the bracket is different. I had to put my distributor, plugs, wires, etc on the new engine.

Of course I got the damned thing 180 out on timing. But once I fixed that, it ran on all 6. Finally. This is my first car with a distributor! So its new to me!

For the smog delete I did this: Deleted smog pump and all associated plumbing. I removed the air injection lines and replaced them with 9/16" Fine thread bolts to plug the ports up. I got rid of the charcoal cannister which was empty btw. I removed the EGR pipe and plugged the intake hole with just a gasket and the original EGR bolted back on. The only smog equipment left on it are the PCV valve going into the air filter housing and the catalytic converters. I had to get an 84" belt to bypass the deleted smog pump.

The truck ran ok but was pinging like hell. I replaced the MAP sensor earlier so I knew it wasn't that. I had a massive vacuum leak that I found. I figured I had my timing incorrect on the thing so I went and bought a Harbor Freight timing light. Worked like a treat. Now, the 4.9L has two timing marks on the front cover. You are supposed to use the one on the passenger side so that's what I did. Apparently I didn't get the timing right because it still pinged (had it at 18 degrees). I had to pull the distributor out anyway and replace the o-ring on it. That took 3 trips to the store to get the right one. Everyone tried to give me the Windsor one and it didn't work.

Windsor on top, 4.9L Cleveland on the bottom.
IMG_20200401_141126963 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I took some sandpaper to the flywheel to reveal the true timing mark on the balancer. That worked great. I finally got the timing set to stock 10 degrees. No more pinging and the power is what I would expect it to be.

I also had an exhaust leak out the port between the two catalytic converters. A rubber plug does not last long there. The exhaust pressure just jettisons it after a few miles. So today I went to the junkyard and found the same pipe that I took off (want to keep all my smog stuff intact for now) and made a metal plug and secured it with the original clamp.
IMG_20200408_152535430 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200408_153121167 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Oh, I replaced the head unit (had the stock one and half the buttons didn't work). Added new speakers too while I was in there. Ummm, I have done most of the Oil Pressure Gauge mod. I got a junkyard pressure sensor unit to replace the pressure switch in the later trucks like mine. I jumpered the 20 ohm resistor on the back of the cluster and I have a 93 non-tach cluster gauge to swap in. Probably do that in the next few days.

Long term plans are simple: 4BT swap, 33" tires of some variety and a 2" lift. Eventually I will do a winch and bumpers too.

Anyway, thanks for hearing me out on this. And not minding me sticking around.

Paul
 

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1978 Bronco Ranger XLT, 12V P-Pump Cummins, ZF5, Dana 60 Front, Sterling 10.25 Rear
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As most of you know, I had to give up my 79 SHTF Bronco. It was just too much work for me physically, unfortunately. I am just no good at body work, cutting, welding and all that jazz. But it went to a good home with Mr. El Kabong himself taking it on March 3rd, 2020. I am looking forward to seeing what he can do with it.

That being said, I needed a truck of some variety that was in much better shape...or so were the plans.

On February 7th, my birthday, I hopped on a train from Oceanside, CA to Fresno, CA to pick up what i thought was a nice, reliable 1995 F150 Extra Cab Short Bed, 4.9L, 5-speed, 4x4 truck. I knew it had a salvage title and the CarFax said as much. It had lived it's whole life in Fresno so I knew I didn't have to deal with rust like I had before on the 79 Bronco. The title was rebuilt and inspected by the State of California so I figured it was ok. Sure enough, I hopped off the train, handed the man the cash and then started on my trip home.

Things I noticed right off the bat: Man, this thing has a weird clutch release point and it is super stiff! And man, this engine sounds strange and feels kind of weak. So I stopped at a Walmart, grabbed some oil and coolant and made sure the vitals were good before driving back home. Well, the coolant was low so I topped that off. And the oil was whipped and frothy. Uh oh. That seems like a headgasket leak to me. I figured that wasn't the end of the world. I can slap a new headgasket on no issues. Oh, and I have an exhaust leak to track down too. Too long in the cab and zzzzzz. I headed home and showed up about 2 AM.

Here are the initial pics I took the next day.
IMG_20200208_150406519_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200208_150352959_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200208_150343720_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200208_150335816_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I am not crazy about red, but its fine. Its a truck. LOL

But I noticed I had some serious problems with the engine after about a month of ownership. It just struggled to move out of its own way and every time I would check the oil, I would have to add some more. But I had no black smoke out the tail pipe. I was very confused.

First thing I did to it was try and figure out why the clutch pedal was so stiff. I read that besides the clutch being bad itself, that after a bunch of miles the pedal assembly can be worn out. You can rebuild it with new bushings but the damned things can be so worn that the new bushings die quickly. For $130 new, I installed a new set of pedals. Same problem. Shit.

Now, the previous owner's dad borrowed the truck and was hauling tons of sand for a whole day. Apparently they overloaded the thing and the right rear wheel studs sheered off completely while loaded causing the damage to the back of the truck. So I did the right thing and tried to pound some of that out. I need to take some more pics, but this is what I started with.

IMG_20200314_174700826_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I then proceeded to ditch all of the smog equipment to see if that was causing the engine to run terribly. There was no check engine light mind you. And it just passed smog somehow. I changed the plugs, the wires, distributor cap, rotor, etc. Same situation. So I grabbed my thermal lazer gun thingy and cylinder 5 was not really running so hot. I wasn't able to complete a compression test, so I soldered on. I changed the oil and replaced the filter and to my amazement, the thing only had 1.5 quarts of oil in her. Holeeshitballs. Then I crawled under the truck and saw this:

IMG_20200314_174419100 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Apparently the entire underside of the truck is now rustproofed. Blowby. Tons and tons of blowby. The entire underside of the hood, drivers fender well, brake booster, clutch master, etc is nicely lubricated.

I pulled the valve cover to try and see if a rocker was loose. They all checked out fine.
IMG_20200323_142535520 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I removed the air filter and this is what I was greeted to.
IMG_20200321_111347714 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I had ordered new engine mounts and transmission mounts and decided to install the new "Bruce Jenner" mount. Here is the old one. It was pooched. Just fell apart and of course, it is covered in oil.
IMG_20200318_181642438_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Here is the passenger side engine mount. It was trashed too.
IMG_20200321_180127695 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I was working at Spy Optic doing some consulting for them when the whole Coronavirus thing hit the fan and the parent company apparently decided to fire all of the consultants working for them. So I am one of the now jobless. My last day was March 20th and I quickly decided to find a new engine for the truck now that i had the time. The long term goal is a 4BT just like I was going to in the 79 Bronco, but I can't afford that kind of cash right now. So I went and found a 92 4.9L with 141K on it for $600. Sold. The wife and I headed down to El Cajon to get the new to me engine. You can barely see it in the mirror.

IMG_20200325_121212672_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

The blow by was so bad that in the 100 mile round trip to get the engine, I had only 2.5 quarts left of 6 upon draining the sump for the swap.

So for the tear down, I wanted to try and remove the front core support. I had heard it was easier that way. Well...I won't do it again. It took the better part of a day to get it undressed so to speak and a 2 day project took 4 because of that. I didn't take a lot of pictures of the swap, but I did take some pics of the gnarly stuff.

Here is the engine bay before power washing.
IMG_20200328_132825710_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200328_132839813_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Old mill out and on the ground.
IMG_20200328_132845976_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Old engine in the foreground. New in the aft. I installed a new rear main seal while I was at it.
IMG_20200328_132852926_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

There is your clutch problem Paul...
IMG_20200328_141457181 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

This pic is for me to figure out if the engine stands on the 95 4.9l are the same as the 80-86 which bolt up to the 4BT easy.
IMG_20200328_142813809 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

My new Luk Clutch Kit came in and I used the flywheel on the donor engine (it was fine) and I forgot that I needed to get a new slave cylinder for the M5OD-R2. Another jaunt to Autozone and that was purchased. Everyone says that bleeding them sucks. Well, I bought one of those Motive Power Bleeders years ago and let me tell you, bleeding anything is easy with that thing.

The parts I swapped over to the new engine were many: First, I deleted the smog pump completely. Then I swapped alternators from the 92 model to my 95 which I think is a 3G alternator. It looks different anyway. Then the power steering and AC compressor were left on the bracket and I had to swap studs for these as the 95 were longer and the bracket is different. I had to put my distributor, plugs, wires, etc on the new engine.

Of course I got the damned thing 180 out on timing. But once I fixed that, it ran on all 6. Finally. This is my first car with a distributor! So its new to me!

For the smog delete I did this: Deleted smog pump and all associated plumbing. I removed the air injection lines and replaced them with 9/16" Fine thread bolts to plug the ports up. I got rid of the charcoal cannister which was empty btw. I removed the EGR pipe and plugged the intake hole with just a gasket and the original EGR bolted back on. The only smog equipment left on it are the PCV valve going into the air filter housing and the catalytic converters. I had to get an 84" belt to bypass the deleted smog pump.

The truck ran ok but was pinging like hell. I replaced the MAP sensor earlier so I knew it wasn't that. I had a massive vacuum leak that I found. I figured I had my timing incorrect on the thing so I went and bought a Harbor Freight timing light. Worked like a treat. Now, the 4.9L has two timing marks on the front cover. You are supposed to use the one on the passenger side so that's what I did. Apparently I didn't get the timing right because it still pinged (had it at 18 degrees). I had to pull the distributor out anyway and replace the o-ring on it. That took 3 trips to the store to get the right one. Everyone tried to give me the Windsor one and it didn't work.

Windsor on top, 4.9L Cleveland on the bottom.
IMG_20200401_141126963 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I took some sandpaper to the flywheel to reveal the true timing mark on the balancer. That worked great. I finally got the timing set to stock 10 degrees. No more pinging and the power is what I would expect it to be.

I also had an exhaust leak out the port between the two catalytic converters. A rubber plug does not last long there. The exhaust pressure just jettisons it after a few miles. So today I went to the junkyard and found the same pipe that I took off (want to keep all my smog stuff intact for now) and made a metal plug and secured it with the original clamp.
IMG_20200408_152535430 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200408_153121167 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Oh, I replaced the head unit (had the stock one and half the buttons didn't work). Added new speakers too while I was in there. Ummm, I have done most of the Oil Pressure Gauge mod. I got a junkyard pressure sensor unit to replace the pressure switch in the later trucks like mine. I jumpered the 20 ohm resistor on the back of the cluster and I have a 93 non-tach cluster gauge to swap in. Probably do that in the next few days.

Long term plans are simple: 4BT swap, 33" tires of some variety and a 2" lift. Eventually I will do a winch and bumpers too.

Anyway, thanks for hearing me out on this. And not minding me sticking around.

Paul
Man quite the adventure already on that thing! Seems like you’ve done the right work on her already. Although I’m sure you weren’t planning on the engine swap that early on it’ll be nice to know what you have a little bit more. Seems infinitely more reliable than what ya started with.

Glad to hear you’re still planning a Cummins long-term as well. Loved how you were attacking the 79.

Sorry to hear about the job though man. I hope you’re doing alright with all the craziness going on. Strange times.

Keep on the awesome work!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks fellas!

I forgot to mention, I also took out the ECU and replaced some leaky capacitors. Between that and fixing the timing, it runs good. Finally reliable. Oh and here is a pic of the spout connector. Previous owner thing. Should have grabbed one at the junkyard yesterday.


Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pro tip when doing electronics in this day and age of Fry's Electronics not restocking their items and Amazon taking forever to deliver non-essential stuff. Never mind that non-essential kind of depends on if its essential to you or not...

You can, in fact, wire capacitors in parallel to double up on capacitance. I needed 47uf capacitors on the computer and I couldn't find them anywhere. So I did a quick bit of googling and found out you can do this: two 22uf capacitors in parallel = 44uf, which worked just fine in my truck. All you do is go negative to negative and positive to positive, then stick one leg down in the circuit board, solder it to the board, then solder the wrap arounds you did. Good as new and ready for 25 more years (not that this will go 25 years).
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Cause I am unemployed and dumb, I spent some time to do a Saginaw power steering pump swap. Truly, I hate Ford PS whine.

So did this guy.

I cribbed his install for mine. But I didn't want to chase down the exact parts he used, especially since he was super specific about it. I was just at the yard and saw tons of Saginaw pumps. So I snagged the easiest one to access. It happened to be off a 2000 Dakota with the 3.9 V6. I immediately walked over to a 4.9L Ferd and tested out the line from its pump on this one. Perfect.

The only lame thing about this one is that the return line comes back towards the front of the pump. I had to work it backwards a bit.
IMG_20200412_134846417_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

This is a familiar sight. I think this bracket is only on the 95-96 trucks, which allows you to pull the pump out with the pulley installed, if Ford had allowed us enough room to access the bolts. Sigh. Note how low this sits in the bracket.
IMG_20200412_135039451 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I notched the fan shroud so I could use the rental puller and remove the Ford pulley.
IMG_20200412_135937631 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Got the bish out. Take note of the 9 & 3 holes. Those are the ones I had to widen towards the inside of the pulley a bit. The Sag's mounting bolts that were the best fit were just a bit narrower.
IMG_20200412_144450201 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

You can kind of see where my big ass gloved middle finger is pointing where I took a sawzall and clearanced an interference point that the other dude mentioned in the video. He was dead right about that.
IMG_20200412_144900361 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I got all busy playing with some measurements and stuff for how far each pumps shaft sticks out and tried to do maths...whatever.
IMG_20200412_161022892 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200412_172718596 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

This is what I initially came up with. But quickly figured out that all of the math could be done, but it would likely be faster to just get a damned pulley installed and do a trial and error session to get it lined up right.
IMG_20200412_172803054 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

This hose is DAMNED close to working fine.
IMG_20200412_172806031 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I called it a night and got on the computer trying to figure out which pulley I should use. It would be nice to use the Ford one, but its too small to fit on the Sag shaft. The Dodge pulley was some weird 7 rib type, idk. It didn't look that good anyway.

Then I dicked around with part numbers online beacuse of what the youtube guy said in the video above. "GM power steering pulley - part number 12605677 (stock will NOT work)" If you cross reference this number, it is used on every damned GMC/Chevy truck that had a 5.7 Vortec, LSx engine, 4.3 Vortec out there. I was on my way back to the junkyard when I called NAPA to see if they had this pulley (Autozone couldn't find anything on it) and they said they did. So I showed up and was hoping for the one like in the video. What I got was the same one that is in the junkyard in every truck there. I did want the holes if I could do it though.

I went to the junkyard anyway and looked at every truck there was and there were about 30 of those pulleys that had no holes in them. I walked the cars and there wasn't anything there except for this one that had a 5.3 LS motor in it. It looked VERY similar to the one in the video above. But it wasn't the same. Turns out it is a pulley off a 2006 Monte Carlo SS which had the LS4 in it in transverse mount. That's why it stuck out to me. It was easy as pie to pull.

But first, I stopped by an E-150 that had the 4.9L with the Saginaw in it and yanked the pulley off of it for a backup. Then I went back and got the LS4 Pulley.
ls4waterpump by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I plopped that pulley on and then got to shimming and lining up and shimming, etc. The back of the Sag pump is not flat so it makes it difficult. The final result was something like one small washer and 5-6 larger washers on the left hole and 2 washers on the right hole. Either way, this is what I got.


Its crazy how the truck sounds in the background. I was using some Plantronics bluetooth head phones that picked up my voice amazingly and muted the engine white noise. I will take a different video tomorrow and post it.

Ok, here is a better video with an accurate description of what parts I used. Also you can hear how quiet the truck is now.


I returned the pulley puller to Vatozone and checked out the hose. Small, teeny, tiny bit of rubbing. I drove her home and thought about what I could do so in 3 minutes I came up with the following. Redneck as hell. But its functional.

IMG_20200413_164909688 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200413_164903479 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200413_164906489 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I did some epoxy work on the cluster bezel. I will take some pics of that tomorrow too and maybe get that installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Alrightly then.

I did a couple things today...Mainly reinstalled my epoxied bezel and replaced the SPOUT connector.

My fuel switch broke out of it's place about 3 days ago when I was doing the oil pressure gauge mod so I had to add some material back in there so I could screw it in place again. Ford made the connector so tight that it takes quite a bit of force to get it removed. I think that's when it broke off. Not an uncommon issue.

Ugly but functional.
IMG_20200414_083720112 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Of course both of the lower mounting holes broke clean out. So I grabbed some of the epoxy packaging, tore it into a square and heaped plenty of epoxy in the hole. I then let it sit for 3 days or so.
IMG_20200414_083713997 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200414_083705316 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200414_083701706 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200414_083657772 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

All in all, it worked. We'll see how long it takes before getting destroyed and shattering into a million pieces. I have plans for auxiliary lights and stuff so I will need a few switches up on the right side.

Then I moved on to the SPOUT connector. I snipped a clean one off a truck in the yard and got to work.
IMG_20200414_163855008 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Two redish brown wires stripped are the SPOUT lines. From what I can tell, this is simply one wire that gets removed from the circuit when the plug is pulled. Makes it so the computer won't advance timing while you are trying to set it.
Look at the lubed wiring! MMMMmmmmmm!
IMG_20200414_163857918 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I had to extend the harness a bit because I crimped the plug poorly. I basically just missed. It happens.IMG_20200414_165316828 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Grabbed my heat gun and shrunk the butt connectors to the wire, sealing them in.
IMG_20200414_165710841 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

One side note: If you do any wiring at all, go and get you a pair of ratcheting crimpers for under $20 bucks on Amazon. And while you are at it, get a 300 piece+ set of butt connectors that have heat shrinking material inside them. It should be $20 or less too. It will make your life so much easier. Its awesome to have the sealant in the butt connector so all you have to do is heat it up. Amazeballs.


I just got back from a spin in the truck and I'll be damned if it doesn't run better with the new SPOUT connector installed. Which makes me think that the old SPOUT was not making a good connection. The reason why I think it runs better is that the truck ran smoothly before the fix, but it would sound like hammering much past 3,000 RPM and it was fruitless to rev any higher. I had thought it was just the way 300's are. Now, the truck pulls all the way to 5,000 RPM and the sound is gone completely. It has plenty of power and plenty of low end grunt. I am really impressed so far.

Waiting on a new lock set to come. My driver's lock is the only one that works. Plastic arms on the passenger are broken and anyone can hop into the truck and start it because the key is not necessary anymore. Haha! I bought a "Club" to deter any would be thieves. They can get in the truck, but there isn't much to steal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did a pretty deep clean on the truck's interior yesterday so the wife isn't too skeeved out when she gets into it. I also fixed the dent in the passenger door where the top part of the two mirrors was pulled out a bit funny. Just pulled the mirror off and then took a rubber mallet to it. Looks way better to me. Also replaced the ignition cylinder and two door locks. $80 from Amazon for the set.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Since the wife and I got stimulated (insert chuckles here), I am doing my part and buying an Absalute Customs front and rear bumper kit. They are offering 15% off right now plus free shipping. So you guys'll get to see some welding work. These require more finish work than anything, but that's easier than bending 3/8" and thicker metal when I have no equipment. I may consider making another video or two on how I do it. So both front and rear kits will be $871.25, shipped. I just couldn't pass the offer by. Quarantine sale going on now. save 15% instantly when using code (covid-19)

On a positive note, I am starting back up work at Spy Optic on Monday so progress will be in the evenings and weekends, but hey. I can't complain too much.

Well, that's not true. LOL The thing that wound me up in the hospital back in December, happened again a week ago Friday and I was back in the hospital for 3 days. We have a game plan now and I will be having surgery at some point within a month or so. Just cut the bad crap out and move on with life.

Stay strong brothers. And keep your powder dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just spitballing here and planning for the future. It looks like I can get a 2" lift for this truck by swapping some MOOG replacement springs in. I know my stockers are tired and the shocks are done for as well. Since I am getting that huge bumper and plan on adding 300 lbs more of engine in the future, I am thinking about going for it.

The info I have found is pretty good. I am thinking of getting these CC844s and they are listed for all the heavy engines Ford used in the F250 and F350. Someone asked this "authorized reseller of MOOG parts" this question and this is their response.

Question: What is the spring rate on cc844s? Answer: The CC844S is a severe duty spring and has a higher load weight than the CC844, which is the standard replacement. The CC844S has a load of 1759 lbs and the CC844 has a load of 1557 lbs.

Seems like they recommend the cc824 for my truck which means those springs have a load rate of 1442lbs each. If I do my maths right, I should be adding 400-500lbs of extra weight (hello wheel bearings!) to the rig after everything is done plus my weight. The total load rating of the front of my truck with replacement springs (CC824) and no lift is 2,884. If I add the CC844 model springs then I get an increase to 3,144 and if I go to the CC844S model, it increases to 3,518 lbs.

CC824 = 2,884lbs (no difference)
CC844= 3,144lbs (260lb increase, which is 83% of me btw)
CC844S= 3,518lbs (634lb increase)

I think for the current plans, the CC844S are the right choice and I can hold off on the lift until later but I will get a leveling kit in the current.

/spitball
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did three small things on the truck yesterday. First thing I did was get it warm, disconnect the SPOUT, check timing again and confirmed I was at 10 degrees. I then changed it to 12-13 degrees, plugged the SPOUT back in and it does seem a bit more peppy.

I also saw some oil leaking out of the air filter again so I pulled the lid off the box. Some decent amount of blowby is coming in through the PCV valve. I mean, its not terrible, but its enough to pool up a bit and then leak out of the bottom of the box. So I swapped it back over to a standard breather setup and zip tied some shop towels around it to soak it up. I will just have to swap that out once a month or so. Not the end of the world.

I then ran to NAPA (drove) and tested out a few serpentine belts to include the AC. I had did some basic math and concluded that an 88" belt would do the job. Tried that out and had to get an 87" belt instead. Now I have a few spares in the truck.

I definitely need to get the AC working. Hooking the pulley back up didn't change the truck's ability to cool air. LOL
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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This looks like a good build! Excellent work. My only tip is that if you want to lift it, get the radius arm drop bushings as well, the caster/camber cams won't be able to compensate by themselves for the lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This looks like a good build! Excellent work. My only tip is that if you want to lift it, get the radius arm drop bushings as well, the caster/camber cams won't be able to compensate by themselves for the lift.
Its funny you mention all this. I have been reading tons about lifts and there are so many options, its confusing. I do think I have a game plan. I am going to skip out on the MOOG coils for the time being. I plan on saving up and doing the lift in two stages. Let me know your thoughts @twofortyz.

I am thinking about getting this Pro Comp kit (which ever is for the SuperCab). Its a 4" lift with extended radius arms. It has a block lift for the rear that I am not thrilled about. I think the bulk of all of these lifts is in the front anyway with extended radius arms, brackets, etc.

For the rear, I am thinking of Deavers ultimately, but I may explore a shackle flip to get the height I need to match the front. I don't like the idea of anything other than factory blocks in there.

THEN, at some point, when feeling froggy and flush, I will get a spare set of TTB housings and have them cut and turned. I have been reading that the beesknees is to get the cut and turn housings along with an extended radius arm setup. I also read that most of the companies that are selling full cut and turned kits like what Autofab and Solo sell include Pro Comp's lift kit anyway. Hence my idea of doing the Pro Comp lift first, then sourcing the cut and turned housings. I plan on calling Autofab and bend their ear first to finalize my ideas. Bronco 4 inch Lift Bushing Mounted

I am going to work on the cupholder situation too. On my BMW, I made some cup holders that fit in the shifter surround out of 3" ABS couplers. Decided to attempt the same thing with 3.5" OD ABS pipe. I will likely do it about 3.5" high as well to make sure that Monster/Rockstar cans stay in place. Will put pics of the final product in here when I am done.
IMG_20200506_121420485 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Oh yeah, just to memorialize some of the things I have done but forgot to mention in this thread is I finally replaced the whole lock set. That was pretty painless and its nice to have everything functioning properly.

I also ordered and received some new Cabella's seat covers in Gray/Black. I will add some foam padding to my side of the cover to wedge me in a bit better. I am not in love with the 40/20/40 but the wife likes her seat so I will just adjust mine in anyway I can to make sure she is happy.

I have a surgery date, but we are trying to get it bumped up sooner because the original date is 6 weeks away and I almost went to the hospital again last Friday. The stress from working at Spy just went straight to my bowels and I had to quit the job. I will be able to deal with stress once the bad section of my colon is spliced on out. LOL Until then, its just not worth it. Otherwise I am going to have a temporary colostomy bag until they go in for 2nd major surgery to sew it back up. No thanks. I'd rather deal with low income, low stress, do the robotic surgery ONCE and then get back to work in the summer.

So that's the status folks.
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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From my experience, doing it once is cheaper than twice. I also have the pro comp 4" lift, it seems pretty goodup front, althought the rear with blocks and add a leafs is way too stiff. I'm also looking at deavers for the rear, but am hesitant to make any purchases until this government scam calms down. If I end up with a spring issue and unemployed, I'll probably get the pro comp 4" leafs. Sorry to share the trade secrets, but the pro comps look identical to the Desolate Motorsports trail runner springs. Since many of our members as well as desolate motorsports reccomends them, I'd trust them as a budget alternative as well.

I'd prefer a stock height or 2" leveled bronco on 33s or stuffed 35"s with good shocks for 99% of my use, including offroad. It's probably a better investment to do good 33" tires, gears, and lockers first, then lift later if you want larger tires.

For serious offroading, I think my lifted bronco is less capable than the stock height bronco was. If I had found a stock bronco, I'd have just geared it and put in lockers.
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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You could do Pro comp 4" springs, radius arms, and some bilstein shocks up front with cut/turned beams. I bet they'd sell you the parts without the kit if you write them a polite Email. You'll then want stainless extended brake lines (and route them properly!) If you start with drop brackets, you'll have to remove them and remount stock brackets for the cut and turned beams.

You'll need the caster/camber bushings in the ttb knuckles either way, so that's a neutral cost for any lift. Make sure to buy the ones with maximum adjustment range.

You'll also want a drop pitman arm or research a tie rod end flip, verify if it will clear the frame, I've heard a few mixed results but most seem fine. I think you need a 7" taper reamer and those inserts from JBG, maybe some high end epoxy as well?


Then for the rear, If you want to lift it, may as well let it dance, I'd go with a raised shock bracket, longer shocks, and the J40 springs if they're in the budget. J40, shock bracket, and longer/better shocks could run you $1300+

If you are on the fence like myself, the pro comps and again stock style bilsteins have good reviews, but they won't maximize your available travel. For pro comp stuff, I'd budget $650-$700 for the rear, $800 if you move the spring perches. You need to run the pinion angle wedge with pro comp springs, or move the perches to fix the pinion angle. I believe its the same with J40's.


Edit: Never done rambling. From my experience with axle wrap and trying to avoid it, you'll either want the rear end to be stupid stiff if you have blocks, run a traction/anti wrap bar with blocks and soft springs, or run better leafs without blocks. Comparing the options and price, the new springs make a lot of sense if you want to use the rig offroad and or tow with it.
 

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Bikerpepe has the bilsteins you'll want by the way, and I'd have bought them already if I wasn't scared of the govcorp screwing with my income. I'm amazed his stuff is still for sale at those prices!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks a ton for that @twofortyz! I agree with you that it is better to do it once and just stick to a plan. I think the Pro Comp front with extended radius arms and a Deaver rear with maybe a shackle flip is the ticket for me at this point. Then if I see the need, I can explore the cut and turned route. This will never be a hard core wheeler, but it has to be nice to drive so the wife will want to drive it and even be in it when on the trail.

I started working on the passenger side grab handle project today. Not sure if I mentioned it, but the truck as it sits gives my wife fits right now so getting a grab handle in there is important.

I picked up an assortment of handles out of a Toyota Previa so I could have options. Wound up with the biggest one. I am pretty sure this handle was in the same position on the Previa as it is mounted in the truck now.

So I took the molding off the A pillar and had a looksie.
IMG_20200509_131503644 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I picked my line and drilled two 3/8" holes after marking it with the handle as the template.
IMG_20200509_134418727 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Here is the "well nut" or "expansion nut" I picked up for this. Spoiler...they don't work so hot for me.
IMG_20200509_134801064 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

With them inserted.
IMG_20200509_135727680 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

And temporarily installed.
IMG_20200509_141546435 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

The good news is that this worked well enough for me to lift my fat 300lb butt up into the truck pretty easy. The downside is that they are kind of one-time-use. At least it was that way for me. Could be the quality of whatever Home De-pot has to offer too. Either way, I am going to just bust out the welder and weld some nuts on there. I already made the hole so now the bolt has a place to go through...Might get to that tomorrow.

Yesterday I worked on my cup holder modifications. I cleaned it up pretty good and wiped it down with acetone before gluing the pipe.

IMG_20200508_183523008 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I had made these out of a 3.25" OD ABS pipe. I just took a cut off wheel to it, filed down the rough edges and scuffed them up for paint. I made them 3.5" tall btw.
IMG_20200508_183530957 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Grabbed some Gorilla Glue and stuck them in there.
IMG_20200508_183537971 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200508_183849428 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Gorilla glue has a tendency to expand so I grabbed something heavy and put them on there last night. I was planning on painting that section flat black, but just didn't get to it today.

We shall see what happens tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Finished up the cup holders yesterday and the grab handle.

Since I have no idea how to remove just the plastic part of the cupholder area, I just painted it in the cab.
IMG_20200511_155143920 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Here it is painted up. I am pleased with the results. Deinitely do not have a problem with drinks wanting to tip over now.
IMG_20200511_163144341 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

On to the grab handle. Here are the holes.
IMG_20200511_140200046 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Close up with the top hole ready to be welded in place.
IMG_20200511_141444149 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Not exactly the best welding, but they are secure.
IMG_20200511_145646023 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I had to correct the bottom nut so I cut it off and rewelded it. You can see the angle difference between the two pics here and above. Masked off for paint.
IMG_20200511_151748030 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Seal in place, painted and ready for the trim to be installed.
IMG_20200511_152319092 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Now with the cover installed.
IMG_20200511_153915038 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Hard to see.
IMG_20200511_153920458 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

So the way it is now, if you don't pull directly on it and swing on it instead, it will rock a little bit. I think that is because the handle is resting on the trim piece and not snugged to the nut underneath. I am going to run it like this for a few weeks and see if it holds up. Otherwise, I will trim the trim to allow the handle to recess into the trim piece a bit. I don't think it would be that hard, but it would pay dividends on the sturdiness of it. It was good enough for my mom to use it to climb into the truck the other day. We shall see.

Oh, I installed my new Cabella's seat covers. Those are about as standard as they come.

I went out today and changed the driver's side engine mount. I had bought Anchor brand from Rockauto when I did the engine swap, but the materials were garbage and the holes did not line up at all. Plus the nut immediately cross threaded on the mount. I bought a Duralast (Autozone) mount and the holes lined up perfect and the threads were perfect even with the old nut. I am done being cheap on engine mounts. I just don't want to fook with improper fitment anymore. Takes too much time and its too frustrating.

I also took my timing back to 10 degrees to see if my MPG improves a bit.

When I did the engine swap, I noticed my front sway bar was bent up pretty good so I did the right thing today and pulled that sucker out. Yeah, I get more body roll, but man I feel like the front end rides better now. Might be placebo but...whatever.

IMG_20200513_171859074 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200513_183905851 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Anyone have any issues running with no sway bar?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Thanks for the feedback @67galax. I like it so far, but I don't drive it like I drive the BMW.

I just found out my tires were made in 2009. They are in pretty rough shape so I am going to see if I can find a used set of 33" tires to hold me over.
 
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