Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Following up on what I wrote above, I did locate a set of 33x12.50x15 Falken Wildpeak AT1s that have about half tread for $200 bucks. Just got back from picking them up.

We'll get to find out what the height difference is between the worn out 31" BFGs to the half worn 33" Falkens. I ordered a set of Moog CC844 springs and Skyjacker Black MAX shocks for the interim. I am 99% sure my truck's front end is bone stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Had the new-to-me tires mounted up yesterday.

Before
IMG_20200516_112950230 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200516_113002460 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

After
IMG_20200516_123256220 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200516_123308487 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200517_180301544 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200517_180228903 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

And now for some weirdness. On my ride up to pick up the tires, my arse had learned to hate the factory seats. They are in good shape, but I feel like there is no more cushion left, especially with a big guy like me sitting in them. I've decided I need to do a seat swap.

I went to the junkyard to see what was available. I sat in 1st and 2nd gen Expeditions, 10th gen F150s and a couple Navigators. I wasn't crazy about any of them so I kept looking. I happened upon a 2003 BMW X5 with really clean power seats. These are pretty much a larger version of the 2003 330i sport seats I have in my 540i. All they need for full functionality is 12v and Ground. Memory even works.

I finally coerced the wife to head to the junkyard with me (been asking her to go for 11 years) to make sure the seats have her approval before I do the work. She felt the same as me about the Ford seats at the yard. And then I had her sit in the BMW seats and right away, she was cool with it. So I am stoked.

IMG_20200517_155429446 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I know they look kinda sporty for the truck, but I think I can make the Cabella's seat covers work on these too. The nice part about these seats is that the mounting surface is flat so you can make anything work with them. I will do a post on the install on it's own.

While I was at the yard, I found a decent 33" tire on a Ford rim! Now I have a spare. Not sure if it will fit underneath, but that's not that critical.
IMG_20200517_155437395 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

So that's the update so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
My springs came in yesterday and the shocks should be in today as well. I have some various front end components that I ordered a while ago and I am going to work on those while I am down there. I am going to go easy and not sweat it.

I also looked at the seat situation and I am convinced I am going to be thrilled with the results, but its going to take some fabbing. The mounting points are wildly different, of course. So I am thinking about taking all of the seats out and building a solid piece to run across all three seats to mount the BMW seats and then have a huge center section that I can fab a custom console for. I am not sure yet. Still ruminating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
I was doing really good earlier this past week and then got slammed into a wall with my stupid health issue. Any way, I am going to make a couple posts because I have 50 pics I took and want to share here.

Ok, on to the seat situation. Like I said above, this is definitely going to require some custom fab skills to get these installed. I have worked out that the BMW seats have a mounting pattern of 18" wide by 14.25" deep (front to back) and is flat. The truck seats have a 9" wide by 11" deep pattern and are raised in the front. The plan is to just build a flat cage out of 1" square tubing that serve as the platform to mount feet to it. I am thinking 3/8" plate for the feet will be plenty strong if I get it done right.

Pic dump.
IMG_20200518_183036326 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

The factory seat just hangs over in the middle of the air a bit. The BMW seat will just extend out this wide.
IMG_20200518_182722366 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Empty hole. I am thinking that doing two separate mounts will be easier than running a long one across.
IMG_20200518_183154334 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

It doesn't look nearly out of place as I thought it would.
IMG_20200518_183524687 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200518_183532240 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

This is actually an inch and a half too far over to the door side. I removed the BMW belt buckle and there is way more room in the middle.
IMG_20200518_183655050 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200518_183700428 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200518_183714779 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

The Ford floor pan is definitely not straight across like BMW likes to build their cars.
IMG_20200518_183746999 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200518_183751339 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200518_183802138 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200518_183817065 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200518_183823593 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Passenger seat comparison with the BMW buckle removed.
IMG_20200518_184701980 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

BMW seat overall width.
IMG_20200518_184721097 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

BMW seat overall depth.
IMG_20200518_185046359 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Truck seat mounting points (width).
IMG_20200518_184739340 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Truck seat mounting points (depth). You can see the 45 degree foot placement.
IMG_20200518_185023905 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Truck seat showing how the feet are installed.
IMG_20200518_185447813 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I need to get feeling better to be able to get out there and tackle these. My gut just doesn't like me lifting anything when I am in the middle of a flare up. Gotta get the bad section of colon cut out.

Ok, new post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Spring and shock install:

I received my Moog CS844 springs. They look to have one more wrap than the stock springs.
IMG_20200519_104501136_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Before shot with worn 33" tires and the factory springs.
IMG_20200518_190512146 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Measured height to edge of fender is 35.5"
IMG_20200519_095042348_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

How you have to remove the spring retainer in the bottom of the spring.
IMG_20200519_104128616 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Factory spring loosed up.
IMG_20200519_103353031 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Cleaned and lubed lower spring mount.
IMG_20200519_104648478 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

New guy installed.
IMG_20200519_110601943 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200519_111245477 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Working on the old shocks.
IMG_20200519_110605439 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

This was cute.

Moved over to the driver's side after the Skyjacker Black Max shocks showed up. BTW, they are way better than stock blown suckers. Not an endorsement exactly, but yeah...
IMG_20200519_163306637 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Post install after running to Autozone for a steering component.
IMG_20200519_174522848_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200519_181304255_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Just under an inch and a half lift. I am sure they have settled a little bit more. Not terrible for $104 shipped. Keeps the front end from wallowing around anyway.
IMG_20200519_181313251 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Full view post install.
IMG_20200519_181357003 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

First impressions (and more impressions actually) is that this was well worth it. 25 year old springs and shocks are just a wallowy mess. So replacing these was critical. I am happy with the results and the ride is much improved. Its controlled and predicable even with the sway bar removed.

Another post incoming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Steering component install:

I bought all new SKF components except for the driver's idler arm or whatever its called. I had thought I bought all that before but apparently didn't. Rockauto cost me about $75 for four ball joints (tie rod ends) and the main idler that runs to the passenger wheel and links up with the pitman arm. It was another $75 to buy the cheap Duralast part that goes from the pitman arm to the driver's side. Crazy price difference.

At any rate...

Of course all of the SKF stuff is greasable...while the Duralast isn't.
IMG_20200519_114444274_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Hit the old stuff with a bit of paint to mark the distance it is adjusted.
IMG_20200519_114553917 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

One of the best tools I have ever bought.
IMG_20200519_115740528 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Roached vs new. I installed the zerk fittings last.
IMG_20200519_115922088_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Old junk. See the arm going to the right? That's the one I neglected to get from Rockauto.
IMG_20200519_122402051 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Rather than count threads (who has time for that?), I just lined them up and hit the new part with some paint.
IMG_20200519_124741551_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

These two are shaped ever so slightly different.
IMG_20200519_124745647 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I snapped this pic of the TTB bushing. Yeah, they are due.
IMG_20200519_145046669 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

I apparently stopped taking pics at this point cause there isn't anything else to really wonder about. The steering is nice right now. These are just routine maintenance things, right? They gotta be done.

Looking at the front end of the truck, I have quite a bit left to do. I have new SKF ball joints waiting to be installed. I am unsure what to do about bearings and stuff. Most I have seen have the outer one roached and that's about it. I will replace the u-joints too while I have it apart. Change the diff fluid, the TTB swingarm mounts or whatever they are called, rotors, pads, remanned calipers. LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I had apparently gotten sick of opening the hood and seeing these thin zipties pulling into the upper radiator hose and went about to make a slight improvement. As evidenced below.

IMG_20200519_173205517 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200519_173211816 by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Since I am going to be doing a fair amount of welding, grinding, cutting, etc soon, I needed to replace the compressor that my friend accidentally killed. I found a coupon for this fella for $219. Its a 21 Gallon 175 psi oil-less compressor from Harbor Freight. I did a decent amount of research and my thinking went like this: I am not a professional mechanic and I don't shoot paint so I don't need a 60 gallon tank and it doesn't need to run all day, every day. If the oil-less dies after 100 hours, oh well. It will take me a decade to hit that much time on it. The 175 psi figure just makes the 21 gallons more efficient than the cheaper 135 psi 20 gallon brother of this one. More pressure in the same volume means more air. Plus, this guy is upright, has wheels and you can kick the tank drain on and off with your foot.
IMG_20200520_154809505_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

And Wednesday I took the freshly suspended, sprung and steering componented truck up Nate Harrison Grade in the Pauma Valley. I had been up there about 10 years ago in my old 4Runner but had completely forgotten what it was like so up I went.

A circle of the truck at the park entrance and some meandering.

IMG_20200520_184103930_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200520_184214983_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200520_184236158_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

IMG_20200520_184927707_HDR by Paul Abbott, on Flickr

Never seen this website before but its cool! I haven't wheeled in a long time.



The truck performed great. The only thing I wish I could change is if I could switch it into 2WD low range like I could with my 4Runner. There might be a mod for this but 1st gear can be a little long and it would be nice to crawl a little bit more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I am a massive dummy. However, I plead ignorance as this is the first truck I have owned that has manual hubs. If I want 2WD low, do as the internet says: "If you have manual hubs you'll get 2wd Low by engaging low range with the hubs unlocked. Done it many times with no problems."

Doh!
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top