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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I finally decided to commit and do the swap. This is my story.
Disclaimer: this original post is not yet complete. I'm still adding to it little by little as this build progresses.

Wot 'n tarnation?
Yes it's long, no one likes scrolling through walls of text, and I'm sorry. But hear me out-
I want to make all my build information as transparent, organized, and centralized as possible. It was way too damn hard to find what I've put together from research in the many corners of the internet, phone calls to vendors, and visits to fabrication shops for how many times this kind of swap has been done. So I'm trying to frontload the pain and make it as easy as possible for anyone in the future that may want to do this swap, and may be coming from a small knowledgebase like me.​
I have enlisted the help of a local fabrication shop who specializes in high-end, hotrod, project, and restoration builds. Mine will be the first 4bt diesel swap they have done. I teach for a living and I currently have a class, so I'm exceptionally busy and unable to get to the shop a lot of the time, but I'll update with pictures and video as much as I can.​
All of that out of the way, here we go!​

Build Goals:
  • Daily drive-ability. It's been my daily for years, and will be for years to come.
  • Reliability. The plan is to slowly build this into a mild overlanding rig.
  • Same or better power as the 351w. I tow occasionally and don't want to sacrifice what I have.
  • Improved MPG if possible.
  • Complete the job with a $15k budget. I don't want to have to do anything but regular maintenance for a few years.
  • Minimal downtime - it's my daily after all.
  • Sate my desire for a new truck. A newer (last couple of years) F150 optioned similarly is 40-60k. I'll be "saving" ~$25-35k.
    • This comes with a whole slew of pros and cons I can go over if anyone is interested.
  • Stick with bolt ons as much as I can. I'm not a welder, fabricator, or machinist. I'd like to be able to work on it myself going forward.

The Plan:
The technical stuff, the research, and all the stuff I intend to touch, modify, replace, or need to check for in the course of this build. Being that I want this to be a new upgrade rather than patching and fixing something existing, I'm okay with a larger budget on this.​
Engine:
Transmission:
I decided to stick with my E4OD and upgrade it with 4R100 steel internals to handle the increase in power. This will also require an aftermarket transmission controller. DCS has used and recommends the [US Shift Quick 4 Transmission Control System].​
From all of the reading I've done, if you don't plan to increase the power of a 4bt, you can get away with using the stock e4od transmission in this bronco. It is good for an absolute max of around 500lb-ft of torque [link] [link]. Mine has 250k miles on it without a rebuild and, though I haven't abused it, I am trying to increase the power on the 4bt from 130hp to 200hp (~500lb-ft). So, because it's probably tired and needs a little love, I researched if I should get a new transmission or stick with mine and rebuild it.​
The ZF5 would have been nice and I seriously thought about it. That is the manual transmission offered for the 92-98 manual ford trucks. I love manual vehicles and the idea of having a vehicle that can run mechanically without electronics is very attractive to me. However, I live in the DC, Maryland, Virginia (DMV) area and traffic is a bitch. I have a motorcycle and a manual car, and I don't like feeling like my leg is going to fall off. So I decided to stick with an auto (because daily). But is there an automatic transmission that's mechanical?​
The E4OD transmission is actually mechanically controlled from the 1-3rd gears, and overdrive is electronically controlled [link]. That was a pretty big selling point for me, and since I already have an E4OD, I may as well stick with it. A common upgrade to the E4OD's is to have the aluminum internals replaced with the 4R100's steel internals. That upgrade will make the torque tolerance a lot better at around 1,000lb-ft and is a simple upgrade in that the two transmissions are virtually the same [link]. The E4OD was offered in the 92-98 automatic Ford trucks, and the 4R100 was offered in the 99-2003 ford diesel trucks. I will need an aftermarket Transmission Control Module (TCM), though, as the factory one can't be re-flashed or modified to accommodate the swap reliably or simply [link].​
Some additional very useful information in my calculations were these [E4OD Transmission Specs] and these [E4OD Torque Specs].​
The gentleman working to upgrade the E4OD let me know it'd be a good idea to grab a [Mag-Hytec] pan for a little better cooling and increased fluid capacity in addition to still running my factory transmission cooler. I figure more cooling is better, so I'll go that route. It'll increase the fluid capacity from the factory 17-18qts to ~22-24qts. Bonus, this also adds a better place to put the transmission temperature sensor. Since the E4OD didn't come with a temp sensor from the factory, a common place to put one is in the pressure test port on these transmissions. With the Mag-Hytec pan, it comes with a port tapped into it already. He also used a Transgo kit to do the rebuild and left the following notes of what was done on the invoice:​
REBUILD TRANSMISSION. UPGRADES INCLUDE, STEEL OD PLANET, 6 PINION STEEL FRONT AND REAR PLANETS, TRANSGO TUGGER SHIFT KIT, LOW REVERSE CLUTCHES, STEELS, LOW HOUSING AND COMPLETE SPRAG, 1 PIECE CASE BUSHING, STEEL ACCUMULATOR VALVES AND DUAL CLUTCH TORQUE CONVERTER. ALL CLUTCHES, STEELS BEARINGS BUSHINGS, SPRAGS, SEALS ARE REPLACED ALSO.​

Driveshaft, Axles, Suspension:
I will be using the stock axles, driveshaft, and suspension.​
I used [The Grimm Jeeper] to get an idea of how hard the 4bt will be working to move the Bronco. If I plug in the numbers (Ford E4OD transmission, Borg Warner 1356 transfer case, 3.55 axle gear ratio, and 32" tires) it tells me my RPMs will be [email protected], which is a good cruising speed to me. Based on this, I decided not to do any re-gearing just yet. That'll be another later build along with suspension. Based on the power output of the 351w, I don't think the gearing or driveshafts will need upgrading just yet.​
Intake System:
Fuel System:
Gauges and Dash Cluster:
Power Steering System:
Vacuum Pump System:
Vacuum is needed to operate both the AC switches and the brakes, making them power brakes. Because of that, vacuum is required in this swap. There were two options for creating vacuum, either install an electrically operated or a mechanically operated vacuum pump.​
An electric vacuum pump will need lines run to the battery to operate it. I didn't research this too much, but I imagine they are probably always on unless more wiring is done to integrate the circuit with the brake or a switch to activate it when needed. I read a post about someone who did integrate the circuit with the brake, but if you want AC that probably isn't very advantageous.​
Exhaust:

My 4bt Configuration:
I knew I wanted a 4bt that was going to be able to produce around 200hp since the 351w is supposed to put out around 210hp @ 3,600 and 325lb-ft @ 2,600 rpm [link]. I was a lot less concerned about the correlating torque numbers on the 4bt since diesels in general produce a lot more torque at lower rpms.​
I contacted the Big Bear Engine Company in Colorado [link] quite a bit for information on 4bt's. Turns out there are a ton of them out there, mostly for machinery like woodchippers or generators, but sometimes for bread trucks, and they all vary quite a bit in power output depending on the application. The best way to eyeball a 4bt for what kind of power it will produce is by the Critical Parts List (CPL) number. Also, if you are able to get the engine's serial number, call your local Cummins shop and they should be able to decode it for you and provide a configuration sheet. This will give you an idea of exactly what your 4bt is composed of including the fuel pump and turbo type.

It looks like a vast majority of 4bt's out there are in the 105-130hp range. More research told me that is largely dependent on the kind of cooling, aspiration (turbo or non-turbo), and fuel pump in use. There are some running a little hotter, but they're really hard to find, moreso than the one I got, and more expensive. I was looking to spend $4k max on a low mileage 4bt. And I found it... on Craigslist. It was super shady but worked out in the end.

In order to make 200hp, which I figure should get me around 500lb-ft tq, I'd need to upgrade and tweak certain parts. Research told me the best fuel pump for upgrade-ability was a ppump; more specifically, a P7100 pump (made by Bosch), rather than a VE rotary pump, which is more limited in how much fuel can be pushed through it. Extremely few 4bt's received a ppump, I found. I'd also want a 4bt with an HX30 (made by Borg Warner), an HE221, or TD04HL-19T turbo. I watched a couple of videos of people having trouble getting an HX35, which came on the 6 cylinder 12 valve 6bt's, to spool up with bolt ons, so I wasn't going that route. Finally, to make the power I wanted (which is well within this configuration's abilities) I'd have to make a few mostly bolt-on upgrades according to the 4btswaps forum [link]. Those are:
  • HX30 turbo
  • Wastegate set to ~22psi
  • Intercooler installed
  • A PPump flowing 130cc, or 1000 shots
  • 3200+rpm governer spring
I used some CPL decoders and none seemed to give any meaningful information on CPL's unless they were in the 0-1000 range, and the engines in that range didn't come with the turbo or fuel pump I wanted. After searching online in a lot of places and correlating tidbits of information, I found out that a 4bt CPL#1839 came with an HX30 turbo, a P7100 pump, and produced 130hp stock. That's the one I looked for. It took me a couple of months, but eventually one popped up a couple of states away. I made an offer and picked it up that same weekend for $3,500. Ran when pulled and has ~37k miles.
Code:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|                                   ReCon Engine Information                                  |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Part Number    -   DR1683RX                       |Build Date                -   01-NOV-2004 |
|Description    -   ENG 4BTA 3.9 B [email protected] P7100  |Fuel Pump Type            -   P7100       |
|Family         -   4b                             |Fuel Type                 -   DIESEL      |
|Liters         -   3.9l                           |Fuel Solenoid Voltage     -   12V         |
|Application    -   AUTOMOTIVE                     |Fuel Pump Governer Type   -   RQVK        |
|CPL            -   1839                           |Turbo Location            -   LMRO        |
|Aspiration     -   JACKET WATER AFTER C           |Oil Pan                   -   REAR        |
|Configuration  -   D383022BX02                    |Air Compressor            -   N/A         |
|Rated [email protected]   -   [email protected] RPM                   |Vibration Damper          -   N/A         |
|Peak Torque    -   [email protected]                       |PTO Location              -   N/A         |
|Torque Rise    -   35.29%                         |Paint Color               -   BEIGE       |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Parts List:
Here's a comprehensive list of parts I've ordered along with the price tag at the time I bought them and links to them. Don't forget about taxes, shipping, and have extra room in your budget for last-minute smaller items (guess what I forgot about?). They stack up fast. As my dad says, "Make your budget, then add 20%".​
ItemNotesSupplierPNPriceLink
Engine enamelDupli-Color Cummins BeigeAmazon
$14.11​
[link]
Engine enamelDupli-Color BlackAmazon
$14.11​
[link]
Engine primerRust-Oleum GrayAmazon
$7.50​
[link]
Gas Tank Skid PlateAluminumDesolate MotorsportsDES-01053
$299.99​
[link]
Transmission Control ModuleDiesel Conversion Specialists2159
$750.00​
[link]
Adapter PlateDiesel Conversion Specialists2040
$769.00​
[link]
Flex Plate for 6.0 StarterDiesel Conversion Specialists1235
$550.00​
[link]
Engine Mountsw/ isolatorsDiesel Conversion Specialists2081
$350.00​
[link]
Oil Press., Water Temp., AdapterSensor adaptersDiesel Conversion Specialists1031
$30.00​
[link]
Tee Vacuum Line for BrakesIncl. w/ conversion kitDiesel Conversion Specialists[link]
Tachometer KitDiesel Conversion Specialists2142
$303.00​
[link]
AC compressor bracketDiesel Conversion Specialists3068
$595.00​
[link]
AC Compressor linesDiesel Conversion Specialists1027
$131.00​
[link]
AC Compressor, DodgeDiesel Conversion Specialists1386
$165.00​
[link]
Power Steering CouplerDiesel Conversion Specialists2351
$25.00​
[link]
Lower Water Neck (45 degree angle)Diesel Conversion Specialists3102
$110.00​
[link]
Upper Water Neck (vertical)Diesel Conversion Specialists1029
$80.00​
[link]
Throttle Position SensorFor automatic transmissionDiesel Conversion Specialists[link]
4BT 8V 3.9L CUMMINS LOWER GASKET SETDiesel Power ProductsDPP-3802375
$133.16​
[link]
4BT 8V 3.9L CUMMINS UPPER GASKET SETDiesel Power ProductsDPP-3804896
$91.23​
[link]
Triple Gauge Pod & GaugesBeige, 3 pod, gauges incl.GlowshiftGS-346T-C7-PKG
$239.96​
[link]
Gas tankPlasticJeff's Bronco Graveyard30216
$145.00​
[link]
Sending Unit SealJeff's Bronco Graveyard30243
$2.00​
[link]
Gas tank breather valveJeff's Bronco Graveyard30259
$16.00​
[link]
Breather Valve SealJeff's Bronco Graveyard30259S
$6.00​
[link]
Rollover Breather Valve?Try to reuse old oneJeff's Bronco Graveyard30260
$109.00
[link]
Rear Tank Filler HoseJeff's Bronco Graveyard30218
$25.00​
[link]
Upper Gas Tank StrapsJeff's Bronco Graveyard30272
$19.00​
[link]
Lower Gas Tank StrapsJeff's Bronco Graveyard30278
$45.00​
[link]
Diesel filler neck92-98 F350LMC Truck43-3331
$209.95​
[link]
Core Support 92-97 PSFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-2868-T
$229.95​
[link]
Radiator Insulator Set-LWRFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-0934
$11.95​
[link]
Reinforcement Support-LHFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-2870
$29.95​
[link]
Reinforcement Support-RHFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-2871
$29.95​
[link]
Bolt-SupportFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck50-0216
$0.95​
[link]
U-Nut-SupportFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck40-0888
$0.95​
[link]
Rad Core Mounting Kit 18pcFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-0963
$89.95​
[link]
Bracket-Radiator Core MountFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck45-1465
$29.95​
[link]
Bolt-Mount BracketFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck40-0591
$1.25​
[link]
Nut-Mount BracketFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck40-0871
$0.60​
[link]
Transmission Rebuild (96-97 PS converter)4r100 steel internalsMaryland Transmission Specialist
$3,000.00​
[link]
E4od Temp SensorCame w/GlowShift kit & wiringGlowshiftGS-346T-C7-PKG[link]
Boost SensorCame w/GlowShift kit & wiringGlowshiftGS-346T-C7-PKG[link]
EGT SensorCame w/GlowShift kit & wiringGlowshiftGS-346T-C7-PKG[link]
4bt Cummins Diesel EngineCPL#1839 p7100 pumpOther
$3,500.00​
Dowel Pin Tab w/ BoltKiller dowel pin fixPower Driven Diesel54001010006
$125.00​
[link]
6bt harmonic damperDon't need this just yetPower Driven Diesel960311
$457.00
[link]
Budget Builder 3K/4K Governor SpringsAdded adjustment toolPower Driven Diesel60700000001
$150.00​
[link]
Adjustable Turbo Boost ElbowPower Driven Diesel10920920512
$20.00​
[link]
4BT Cummins 055 Fuel Delivery ValvesPower Driven Diesel62001020001
$130.00​
[link]
AFC LIVE in Cab Fuel TunerPower Driven Diesel61001010000
$345.00​
[link]
AFC Foot for AFC LIVE InstallationAdded on AFC Tuner PagePower Driven Diesel61001010008
$40.00​
[link]
AFC Max Travel KitAdded on AFC Tuner PagePower Driven Diesel61001010007
$35.00​
[link]
Machined 8v Rocker PedestalRequired for ARP Head StudsPower Driven Diesel51816141300-1
$200.00​
[link]
Intercooler pipesPossibly reuse banks pipesWit's End[link]
Downpipe and exhaust4 inch exhaustWit's End[link]
Dual Battery TrayWill need fabricatedWit's End[link]
LaborWit's End
$1,500.00​
[link]
Ford 6.0 PS StarterMean green starterXtreme Diesel PerformanceMG6670
$369.95​
[link]
Oil Remote Filter KitPacBrakeXtreme Diesel PerformancePBHP10007
$234.13​
[link]
Radiator - 96-97 PSMishimoto AluminumXtreme Diesel PerformanceMIMMRAD-F2D-95
$395.95​
[link]
Front Mount IntercoolerBanksXtreme Diesel PerformanceBP25970
$1,531.75​
[link]
PSC PK1490 High Performance Pump KitDodge Ram 2500/3500 4WDXtreme Diesel PerformancePSCPK1490
$460.75​
[link]
ARP 247-4206 Diesel Head Stud Kit3.9L Cummins 4BTXtreme Diesel PerformanceARP247-4206
$332.31​
[link]
Dorman 904-810 Vacuum PumpDodge 5.9L CumminsXtreme Diesel PerformanceDOR904-810
$236.87​
[link]
AFE 49-90002 Mach Force XP Exhaust Tip4" In x 5" Out x 12" LXtreme Diesel PerformanceAFE49-90002
$66.49​
[link]
12V FREEZE PLUG BLOCK HEATER (89-98)CPP Diesel3313272
$72.95​
[link]
Transmission coolerUse existing cooler[link]

Questions & Answers:
Questions I or others have had and their answers. I'll do my best to keep updated here to help avoid people needing to dig through comments on this thread for answers.​
Is swapping the instrument cluster from a 96-97 F350 diesel OBS into a Bronco a straightforward swap?
This is not a straightforward swap. It's likely the PSOM will need to come with the cluster. Also try the OBS or PowerStrokeNation forums for more information (thanks TravisITGuy).​
Does anyone know how the glow plug indicator works on the 96-97 F350 diesel OBS instrument cluster?
It appears these years did not have a glow plug indicator, just a wait-to-start (WTS) light.​
Also, the 4bt does not have a glow plug. An engine block heater and/or a heater grid is recommended.​
The block heater will go into a freeze plug port. You can find a block heater here [link] (thanks curtwow).​
The heater grid installs between the intake elbow and the head of the engine. Image for heater grid here [link] (thanks texaswoodswalker893).​
What kind of mileage can I expect to get with a swap like this?
I will get a more accurate number through testing once the swap is complete. I have been told with my current drivetrain I can expect to see between 20-25mpg. I've seen a couple of posts say 30mpg and one say 35mpg. I imagine the higher numbers are without performance upgrades like I'm doing, even though what I'm doing I think is very mild.​
Should I upgrade the cooling system such as the radiator and fan?
Generally 4BT does not get very hot by design. Since you don't plan to boost 4BT (bigger turbo etc.), stock Bronco or F150 radiator is sufficient enough to cool that engine even in hot climate. The only recommendation would be to get rid of 4BT stock mechanical fan and replace it with el. fan for the case if you tow some heavy trailer uphill in hot climate. Recommended el. fan would be from Ford 500 or similar. Junk yards are full of these very powerful dual fans, but it would not be bolt on. That would be the only thing needed. Bigger radiator is unnecessary overkill [link](thanks @milan65).​
Will I need to upgrade the suspension?
That is up to you, but initially, no. The 4bt weighs in at ~750lbs depending on dressings and fluids [link]. The 351w weighs in at ~510lbs with block, heads, and manifolds alone [link] and [link]. If your Bronco has the dual shock and coilover suspension up front already because it had a v8 (I don't know about the i6 model) general consensus seems to be you'll be fine. Additionally, Diesel Conversion Specialists confirmed this under the the "Engine Weight" section on their instruction page here: [link]. Understand your ride will be a little more nose heavy, but no more than if you put a snow plow or a heavy duty bumper on the front of your rig.​

Story Time!
Would you like some pictures? And a story too? Here you go!​
But seriously, this is a story and not meant to be technical at all. I have crap memory so I figured I'd write down the journey here.​
20190727 - Toll Hell
I really hate tolls. Being from the West, I had never experienced them prior to moving East. It's especially expensive when you have a third axle... go figure. Borrowed the trailer from a buddy after work. Three states and several hours later I get to the seller's house just before dark. He's ready to go with a backhoe and four or so other guys to help load this engine on the trailer. Not going to lie, I was concerned carrying that much cash and being confronted with several guys, but they were all incredibly cool and helpful. Weighed down with ~1000lbs of new dead weight, I cruise to a friends place nearby-ish, do dinner, and get home Saturday early in the AM.​

20190729 - Up A Creek
Finally get the trailer to (barely) fit in the garage. How the hell do I get this damn thing off the trailer? Time to shuffle things around and clean up this disaster of a man cave.​

20190731 - Lost the Battle
Rented an engine lift and had just enough clearance. Turns out trying to get it lifted and maneuvered alone was a chore. Didn't die, though. I discovered much too late that the cherry picker was actually bad. Left leg was bent upward just enough and the boom twisted to the left just enough that when I got it in the air, it started leaning and falling toward that leg. I hopped on the back of the lift like I was doing a box jump at the Crossfit Open, and it was just enough to rock it back and put the three good points-of-contact on the ground. After much shouting and banging on the ceiling, my girlfriend came down and helped me get an old damaged rim under the engine so I could sit it down and not be stuck standing on the lift all night. Precarious, but it was late and I had work. Keeping the lift partially loaded with the weight and a good jiggle-check confirmed it was tomorrow's problem.​

20190801 - Won the War
Attempt #2. I get the chain adjusted, shift the weight of the engine more toward the right leg, and voila! Finally get the dang thing off and tucked into the corner directly behind the lift on jackstands. The following day I take the cherry picker back and let the shop I rented it from know how it almost killed me. Y'know, brighten their day a little.​
Over the next couple of weeks I start unbolting the transmission since I'm not going to need it. I'm going to clean it up and paint it, I tell myself, before I take it to the shop and ask them to install it. Actual spoiler: I didn't clean it up before taking it to the shop. Two sheared off bolts and several days of soaking the sheared bolts in WD40 later, I decide the shop is better equipped to handle it.​

20190926 - Best Laid Plans
Tons of research and lots of communicating with the shop happen. I've made the parts list. I've built too many spreadsheets, compiled too many interwebs links, and obtained copious amounts of information from diesel shops and vendors around the country. I'm good to go... I think. I pull the trigger.​
After the shop graciously lets me borrow their known-good lift and I recruit a long-time friend and his truck, the engine (and transmission) goes to the shop.​
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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i believe you need to transfer the PSOM from your current cluster over to the diesel cluster. I can not speak to the wiring part though
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@TravisITGuy Thanks for the heads up. I had no idea what that was and had to look it up. Just superficial research until I get home tonight, but it looks like it does some reading based on your transmission? I'm keeping my e4od so I wonder if I'll still need to change it. I'll do more research.
@fordbronco1995 Thanks for the suggestion, don't know why I didn't think of it, I'll head over there tonight!
 

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A good friend has this swap in his bronco. He has a SAS a 1977 dana 44 .A np435. The T-case is now a 205 The front drive shaft is 8 inch shorter now. He is running a Autometer gauge setup.

Any info on the wedge and C relocation for the SAS would be a great help
 

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Are you sure you have 4BT engine? There's no glow plug in 4BT. The only electrical wiring on that engine is the fuel solenoid. I have 4BT P7100 from 1998 in my BKO and there is no glow plug. Did they even make 4BTs in 2004? Maybe it was recon in 2004. Anyway, post your progress/pictures. Let me know if you have any question, I'm almost done with my swap. Thank you @LVSteve for showing me this tread. Milan
 

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Idk if @stormfinder still pokes around here, He 4BT swapped his 95 years back and still has it IIRC
 

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Milan is correct no glow plugs, I started mine in -10 last year after only having it plugged in for about 15 minutes. Anything over 30 I don't have to plug it in below that I do. It's a 1 wire design for the engine. You'll have to delete any sensors and such. I swapped mine to a 5 spd manaul so can't speak towards your trans.
I do know your tranny is electronically controlled you may consider swapping it for a C6 or have to purchase a separate controller.
I can't help on the cluster either as I'm sure it uses the engines computer harness. All my 79's gauges work except oil pressure, I bought a separate gauge for that.
I had the same focus when I started mine drive-ability, reliability, and availability of parts basically I wanted to be ABLE to drive it anytime anywhere.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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yes the PSOM is very important for the transmission operation as is the computer. so a standalone computer may be necessary or keeping yours in place and figuring out how to get some sort of TPS signal also which is necessary for shifting purposes.
 

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It doesn't have glow plugs. If it has any cold starting aid it would be an intake grid heater. How that's powered is up to the oem that bought the engine from Cummins. The way you would make your "wait to start" light work is by running a wire from where the grid heater gets its power to the light circuit.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Sorry LVSteve, I will be little help with that. I'm retaining my stock axles for now.

milan65 Thanks for stopping by. I'm brand new to 4bt's and diesels, so you're probably very much correct and it doesn't have a glow plug. I knew that there was only one electrical need for the motor (starter, I think that's it?) and didn't put two and two together. I will definitely be updating, hopefully this weekend. It's finals week for me and things are incredibly busy until next week. Maybe I'll stick with my factory dash cluster then, and just cover up the "unleaded fuel only" bit with a "diesel fuel only" vinyl. Although I have read more than once those clusters are modular, maybe I can just get the fuel gauge swapped out to accomplish that end. It is a ReCon engine, which I think means it's just a rebuilt 4bt Cummins?

curtwow I appreciate the heads up! The E4OD is manual for the first 3 gears and requires a controller for overdrive (that's what I read anyhow). So I've got an independent controller on order. I'm getting it rebuilt with the steel internals of a 4r100 locally to get it up to 1,000lbft tolerance. Mostly it's a stop gap so I don't have to do the rest of the drive train immediately. This is my daily and the availability of parts is key. I've been struggling to find a harmonic balancer and crank tone ring for months haha. Honestly, I'd like to get it into a daily driven overlanding rig, but that's a future goal. You don't happen to know a good block heater to use? I'm assuming that's what you're talking about when you plug it in. I'm trying to source one of those to be installed as well, looks like it installs in one of the freeze plug ports?

texaswoodswalker893 would it be a good idea to get that grid heater if I don't have it?
 

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Do I understand it correctly that you have a shop to do all that work for you and you just supply parts and money? If true, have the shop done this conversion before? Since this tread started with cluster swap question, How you are going to resolve Tachometer? You obviously know about these guys right? https://www.dieselconversion.com/getting-started (I'm not associate with them in any way). Layout your plan here and we can go over it in detail - if you want. I'll gladly answer any question you may have (if I know the answer of course). Milan
 

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Also I work for Cummins so if you need help with parts or something let me know.

Although I'll tell you know for me to find parts for a ReCon engine can sometimes be difficult because of how our system works.

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks @curtwow, that's going on the list of things to buy this weekend.

@milan65 I appreciate it! I definitely will be this weekend. It's a lot of information put together, so I need to get it sorted and post it up. I'll modify the original post to have my plan, parts list, and overall goals of the build. But you're absolutely right, that is how it's going. The shop specializes in one off builds, but they haven't done this specific one before. Was up until 2:30 this morning doing finals papers, back at work at 6:30. Gonna be a rough weekend haha. I've actually purchased the kit from DCS for doing this conversion, and they include necessary adapters to mount up to the factory guages.

@texaswoodswalker893 I appreciate it man! I don't live in too cold of an area, but I plan to in a year or so. I'm originally from the Rockies and want the Bronco to be able to survive up there just fine.
 

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Then yea I'd probably get a grid heater. Here's how it mounts, from the service manual. The grind heater is the square in the middle.


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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
All right, I've updated the main post with my parts list as it stands currently, questions and answers section that I'll update as I ask more and get more answers to them, and I'll add another section for updates with pictures. I tried to make large parts collapsible and format things nicely, but it seems like the BB code on this forum is a bit limited and I couldn't create a traditional table, so I did the best I could with what I had.

Now, it's late. I'll try again tomorrow
 

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What are you going to do for a vacuum source? Diesels don't really have any manifold vacuum to speak of. Definitely not enough to run a break booster. I'd recommend either doing the hydroboost conversion or using an electric vacuum pump.

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