Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

61 - 77 of 77 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
To my fellow brothers and sisters, Happy 244th Birthday! Semper Fidelis.

"The Plan" has been updated in the OP for the Transmission and Driveshaft, axles, and suspension sections. If anyone sees any discrepancies, please let me know.

As for an update, a little more work has been done to clean and paint things up. The head and block received another coat and look good. Things will start getting put in heavier motion this next week I believe to put the engine completely back together. The engine and transmission should be in the truck and maybe even a first start this week.

The transmission rebuild ended up being a fair chunk more than expected, but I suppose that's what happens with last minute upgrades. Gonna run an aluminum Mag-Hytec pan for the extra cooling, fluid capacity, and easy transmission temp sensor location.




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Generally (not just for this build) it's interesting to see how much effort and time is spent on making the engine looks shiny - new look alike, with all that layers of paint etc.., just to see all that goes down to waste when in short period of time all that paint gets covered with oil, grease and gunk or burn right off (especially the paint on the cylinder head). Unless it's SEMA type of show truck.
Anyway, reading your updated project plan, one thing you may want to reconsider is the leave stock driveshafts in. It has been well documented on numerous similar builds that 4BT eats stock driveshafts "for breakfast". It's not a matter if it happens it's when and where and in most cases there's additional damage associated with it (when it happens). One thing is important to realize - 4BT is upgrade (from stock engine). More weight, more torque etc... All other related components needs to be upgraded as well - driveshaft, suspension, axle, transfer case, transmission etc, otherwise it's going to fail. It's just a suggestion. Milan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Also... how you plan to resolve crankshaft breather? Have not seen it on you parts list. You can always have a hose dangling down, but then you'll get oil stains on your driveway.
As for dual battery - great idea - What battery you plan to use and what isolator (if any)? Do you plan for master shutoff switch as well? If you decide to go with Odyssey PC1750 (highly recommended) - Ballistic Fabrication makes direct fit box for these. Also you should consider to upgrade battery cables incl. ground wires. (Did not see that in your parts list). Milan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #65
it's interesting to see how much effort and time is spent on making the engine looks shiny - new look alike, with all that layers of paint etc..
I definitely get where you're coming from. This has a lot to do with my peace-of-mind in having a "new" upgrade, scratch that new truck itch. But also, I'm making sure to use high temperature primer and paint to stand up to the high engine heat. I wanted to keep the block from being less appealing due to rust and corrosion, and make it easy to spray off the grease and oil with a power washer. It's just rattle can though, nothing too fancy.

All other related components needs to be upgraded as well - driveshaft, suspension, axle, transfer case, transmission etc, otherwise it's going to fail.
Yeah, I plan to touch all of this very near in the future (except the transmission, which I'm doing now), but I don't plan to ride it hard initially. I want to do the axles, suspension, and driveshaft in one shot down the road as the next part of my build. I did see some twisted front driveshafts but I hadn't read rear driveshafts getting pretzeled yet. I'm hoping I can get away with mine for now until I save up for the next job. I was reading about people running higher power 351w's and didn't see anything about the driveshaft needing an upgrade up to 300+hp, so I wasn't sure that I needed one right away?

Also... how you plan to resolve crankshaft breather?
Honestly, this wasn't on my radar at all. I'll have to do some research, but do you have any suggestions? I would rather not dangle a hose for that very reason haha

As for dual battery - great idea - What battery you plan to use and what isolator (if any)?
I honestly haven't quite got to researching this part, so I appreciate you making a recommendation.

@78 BrOnCoLoCo I'll definitely be finding this out shortly after I get it back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Twisted driveshaft has very little to do with horse power. Torque is the killer and in case of 4BT, that's what you are getting more of, compare to 351W.
Crankshaft breather - besides dangling hose there are 2 options - buy a kit or make it yourself. In your case - the shop. There are few kits available and depends on your setup, you'll need to figure out which one will fit or how much you are willing to spend on it. This kit would be perfect if you don't mind the cost or this one. Otherwise this would do the same job and only requires a bracket to attach it (to somewhere) and few feet of heater hose all for fraction of the cost of the 1st kit.
Batteries - If you decide to go with Optima (not recommended), there are plenty of brackets available from different manufacturers. Milan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
Thanks for those recommendations! Briefly looking around - upgraded driveshafts are really expensive haha.. I'll have to run the numbers. Thanks for the recommendations on the crank breather kit, I think I'll do one of those kits soon after everything is done. I definitely don't want the spots in the driveway, and I'm glad you mentioned it. After everything is installed and running, I'll add one. I was looking at suppliers for the batteries you suggested and all sellers seem to be on the west coast. I hadn't planned to go the optima route, but I think I may have to find a different brand of battery on the east coast.

It looks like they are well along with putting the engine back together now, and for now I'm just going to go with the dangling hose method for the crank breather haha. Doesn't look bad, it's a bit more exciting now that I'm seeing it coming together.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
Got the transmission pan in. This thing is huge and heavier than I thought it'd be.


Thursday the fuel pump modifications began. I learned in the p7100 pump there are two sets of governor springs that rotate and are operated through centrifugal force. This is the top of the lock nut on one side of the assembly retaining the governor spring. I wasn't able to find a gasket to replace the one for this cap that covers the governor spring assembly. Looks like we're going to use RTV silicone on it.. but if anyone can find the gasket, I'd be appreciative. Maybe @texaswoodswalker893 would know?


Then the first problem in this build. Installed one of the two new 3k governer springs successfully. Rotate it to do the second one. When tightening the lock nut over the top of the spring, there isn't a good way to tell how far down the nut is supposed to be. It appears it wasn't far enough down. The engine was gently turned over manually after install to make sure everything was good when there was a slight catch. Back it off, open it, and now a spindle for the spring is bent. Called around and found this isn't really something you can just bend back to straight. It has to be precise. So I called around to different diesel shops and found one that can replace the governor assembly. When that is replaced, the pump needs balanced. I was told it's very common for 4bt ppumps to be unbalanced from the factory, so this is a good idea anyway. But it's another $600-$1000 down the drain. The pump and the turbo went to the same diesel shop to get overhauled, hopefully have those back this week. Honestly, I'm surprised this is the first road bump. But it's an expensive one.



The engine is still coming together. The high mount AC brackets are installed with the 45 degree lower water neck. This is needed to work well with the 7.3l radiator.


The vertical upper water neck is required to retain AC using the DCS High mount AC kit.


The Pacbrake universal remote oil filter mount kit is the blue puck here. The oil filter won't fit with the AC brackets installed, so the remote mount is necessary. There is a hose assembly, and the filter mount will mount to probably the frame or inner fender some place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
417 Posts
You can get engine gasket material in bulk and cut your own gaskets, just be sure you buy name brand not junkneric
That’s looking pretty good, once it’s installed see if you can mount some kind of metal tub or bucket beneath the breather to catch your drops, I knew a guy that had a 76 pinto wagon dragster that required a 16 oz radiator overflow bottle..... he used a beer can :ROFLMAO:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Sorry it's been so long since the last update. College is a bitch.

So since last tuesday ish I believe, the fuel pump and turbo went to a local performance diesel shop to replace the governor assembly and balance the fuel pump. I was told the 4bt ppumps are notorious for being out of balance from the factory, so this was a good idea anyway. While there, they are advancing my timing to 18 degrees per recommendation from several shops. The turbo needs a new center cartridge and that should be done hopefully today. Unfortunately, it seems whenever there is a problem with the build, it's a show stopper for working on the Bronco. There are other things that could be done, but I think probably because the shop is so busy, they turn to other projects until the immediate problem is addressed.

I did end up getting a few new odds and ends. A new fan/idle bearing as the old one was pretty hard to turn, if you cant tell by the shape it's in. It was pretty spendy for a bearing. NAPA Part#BRG BD35


The instructions for the high mount AC kit detailed an 8 rib pulley needed for the alternator (Part#f65z10344aa, Motorcraft GP720) that is not included with the kit. I got this from the local Ford dealership.


Always check that you have all the pieces you need in a kit. I was missing a bolt for the lower water neck for the high-mount AC kit, but it was easy enough to replace. It is an M10, 1.5 thread pitch by 140 mm long bolt.


Hopefully work will start back up tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
You can get engine gasket material in bulk and cut your own gaskets, just be sure you buy name brand not junkneric
That’s looking pretty good, once it’s installed see if you can mount some kind of metal tub or bucket beneath the breather to catch your drops, I knew a guy that had a 76 pinto wagon dragster that required a 16 oz radiator overflow bottle..... he used a beer can :ROFLMAO:
I had no idea you could cut your own gaskets. That's pretty cool actually, thanks for the heads up.

Yeah I plan to install a catch can after everything is said and done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
Just about done with college, finally. Only a couple weeks left. Then I'll do tons of updating on the OP.

So the turbo and fuel pump are done. The diesel shop that worked on it is top notch. The turbo came back sandblasted, painted, and with a new center cartridge. The fuel pump is cleaned up, gaskets replaced, flyweights replaced, governor spring kit installed, upgraded fuel delivery valves installed, timing advanced to 18 degrees, and upgraded injectors. Above and beyond what I expected. The shop will be pulling my Bronco in this week, hopefully tomorrow, and start banging out the rest of this build.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
You're right, I didn't get upgraded injectors. I was checking my parts list and receipts, and I definitely considered it but never bought them. I was going to grab 5x12 though, I do remember. But that's another $300+ I figured I didn't need to spend. The fuel delivery valves are upgraded to [these]. Just wanted a little more fuel available, not gobs of it haha.
 
61 - 77 of 77 Posts
Top