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What's the idle RPM when the engine vibrates like that? If it is between 750-900 the engine does vibrate a lot and there's not much that can be done about it other then increase the idle RPM to close to 1k. It's one of the few drawbacks of 4BT (compare to 6BT). Steering wheel shake however - could be something else. No matter how much the engine vibrates steering wheel should not be effected by that. It could be something as easy as having loose bolts on steering column under the dash. Other then chasing the source of the issue, it's hard to say. Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #125
@milan65 I'm not sure what the idle is just yet as the tach wasn't functioning at this startup. They were working through it when I visited on Monday though. I will check in with them today. I did order an F250 diesel fuel neck from LMC truck and that fitted up, no enlargement necessary. Now that I think about it, it is odd that the steering wheel would get so much. I'll definitely check to make sure the column is properly secured, thanks for the tip!

@cjwchoppers Thanks for the heads up, I'll give this a shot too
 

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Discussion Starter #126
All right, still a few odds and ends, but the front end is together. Still working out the tachometer issue, AC, intake filter position, and sway bar issues. Then the transmission will get programmed, and we can have a maiden voyage!


 

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Discussion Starter #127
We had a hard stop on something I never expected to have a problem with... it was the bolt-on solution from DCS for the tachometer. We couldn't get the tach to work even though the lines tested good, the tach was good, and the sensor appeared good. We were told the recommended gap was .02, and after way too much testing and a few too many days, I asked the shop to try a smaller gap. At .012, the tach lives!

@milan65 Now that the tach works, we got an eye on the idle and it's idling at ~500rpm. We are going to try 850-900 and see how that goes. DCS configures their trucks to be about 800.

Here is the final placement of the TPS sensor setup in place of the factory airbox. This is from TCI Automotive and is for a 4L60E/4L80E (chevy trans) remote TPS kit.


The transmission controller is mounted with a bracket that mounts to the OBDII port location. Very clean solution.



Here is a mock-up of the titanium intake.


And the sway bar mounts are getting extended to clear the diesel core support. Passenger side is the top picture and driver side is the bottom.

 

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Discussion Starter #128 (Edited)
The Bronco is finally ready for road testing. We will start that on Monday. Outside of that the only thing left is an AC hose that we are waiting to arrive on Monday, and a couple of decals for the windows. Now we can get to tuning the engine with the AFC live tuner, get the idle adjusted properly, and program the transmission.

The sway bar drop brackets are gussetted and the sway bar is bolted up.



Intake is welded up and fits perfectly. Looks like it touches the radiator but it doesn't. Intake is additionally mounted to the top of the AC bracket from DCS. The bracket was drilled and tapped and the intake bolted to it. Also I said before it's titanium, but it isn't. It's aluminum.


Aluminum upper and lower lines were welded up for the cooling as well with a fill neck and a drain plug respectively.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Another small update: everything but the exhaust tip is together. It had a weak in the rear main seal (brand new seal, all the seals and gaskets in the engine are brand new). The AC system is holding pressure, but the compressor wasn't engaging. The idle was turned up to 800 which cut down on the vibrational lot. it goes into gear a little bit hard, but used to always do that so I'm not too concerned.

After replacing the 15 amp fuse for the AC with a 30 amp fuse, the AC now engages. I find that a bit odd, and I'm not sure if I'm comfortable with that solution. The fuse is there to protect the wiring, so if the wiring is not rated for that kind of current, I don't want to have an electrical fire. Any suggestions?

After a 50 mile road test, the rear main seems to not be leaking. Possibly the heating up of the engine cause the seal to sit better? I'm not sure. However, a couple new problems cropped up. The brand new power steering unit failed, the transmission is overheating, and the tachometer solution from DCS also failed. Still trying to track down why the tachometer power steering solutions failed. Also not sure why the transmission is overheating as we overbuilt it to not overheat. The deeper pan with extra transmission fluid, and it's hooked up to the auxiliary cooling on the mishimoto radiator. All this is as of yesterday though, so still looking into causes.
 

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What exactly failed on P/S? Do you have enough vacuum generated for it to run? DCS - no comment on that. You probably already called them for help. Tranny overheat could be serious issue, since automatics are very sensitive to heat. With any extra load on it - like towing or uphill climb it will get worse. Maybe the rebuild was not done right and something is blocking the fluid flow. Does the exhaust pipe goes close to tranny and heating it up? AC- fuse - it is odd. But it's not to be concern with electrical fire. Milan
 

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Discussion Starter #131
It looks like I do have enough vacuum. The pump is suddenly no longer generating pressure, so I'm trying to get it warranty replaced now. As for the transmission, the shop believes the tachometer sensor solution is the issue. The tranny controller uses the input from the crank sensor to determine shift points, but the crank sensor isn't giving a consistent signal. They think that was causing the transmission to heat up much faster. It is surprising though, because it was rebuilt with steel internals, has a deeper pan, and I never had an overheating issue prior. I hope it isn't fluid blockage. That's something I'll ask about though. I'll check about the exhaust pipe too, that's something I hadn't thought of.

Are you saying the 30 amp fuse I shouldn't worry about? Can you explain to me like I'm 10? Haha because I'm still worried
 

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Hopefully your shop will figure it out soon the tranny issue. As for the 30A fuse. Wires in car are designed to withstand more amps then what's normal flow. There's always a reserve. 10A difference is no that much. It would have to take considerable more power draw to melt wire insulation or the wire itself. But if that does not comfort you enough, then just identify the wire(s) and replace it with thicker one. Milan
 

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On the fuse issue, I would try another of the correct size. It really doesnt make sense electrically that a 30a worked and a fuse of the correct amperage wouldn't unless the truck was burning the correct size fuse immediately? Did you check the original fuse with a meter?? continuity? You could have a slightly loose connection where the wire attaches to the fuse holder and installing the larger fuse jostled it enough to make connection. Double check your grounds, the crank sensor and AC clutch could be related thru a less than optimal ground.


Thanks for going thru the effort of documenting your build here, it's appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
We finally got the warranty replacement power steering pump unit in... and it was incomplete. It was missing the "cap" for the entire unit. So that had to be second day shipped, should be arriving today.. Also, a gentleman who was doing a lot of the work on my Bronco has moved on to other pastures, so there may be some slowing in the finishing of this project.

My understanding is the 15a fuse was blowing right away, but the 30a isn't. I will check about loose connections and ground though, thanks for the suggestion! And thank you for letting me know @milan65, that does make me feel somewhat better haha.
 
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