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96 Bronco 4bt Cummins

48K views 184 replies 21 participants last post by  Impact 
#1 · (Edited)
So I finally decided to commit and do the swap. This is my story.
Updated: 20230206

Wot 'n tarnation?
Yes it's long, no one likes scrolling through walls of text, and I'm sorry. But hear me out-
I want to make all my build information as transparent, organized, and centralized as possible. It was way too damn hard to find what I've put together from research in the many corners of the internet, phone calls to vendors, and visits to fabrication shops for how many times this kind of swap has been done. So I'm trying to frontload the pain and make it as easy as possible for anyone in the future that may want to do this swap, and may be coming from a small knowledgebase like me.​
I enlisted the help of a local fabrication shop who specializes in high-end, hotrod, project, and restoration builds.​



Build Goals:
  • Must be daily driveable.
  • Must be reliable.
  • Must have the same or better power as the 351w.
  • Improved MPG if possible.
  • Complete the job with a $15k budget.
    • I don't want to have to do anything but regular maintenance for several years, so the budget was loose to ensure quality parts and work.
  • Minimal downtime - it's my daily after all.
    • Despite all the planning and research, this swap took a year, because nothing goes to plan.
  • Sate my desire for a new truck.
  • Stick with bolt ons as much as possible.
    • I'm not a welder, fabricator, or machinist. I'd like to be able to work on it myself going forward.

The Plan:
The technical stuff, the research, and all the stuff I intend to touch, modify, replace, or need to check for in the course of this build. Being that I want this to be a new upgrade rather than patching and fixing something existing, I'm okay with a larger budget on this.​
Engine:
I knew I wanted a 4bt that was going to be able to produce around 200hp since the 351w is supposed to put out around 210hp @ 3,600 and 325lb-ft @ 2,600 rpm [link]. I was a lot less concerned about the correlating torque numbers on the 4bt since diesels in general produce a lot more torque at lower rpms.​
I contacted the Big Bear Engine Company in Colorado [link] quite a bit for information on 4bt's. Turns out there are a ton of them out there, mostly for machinery like woodchippers or generators, but sometimes for bread trucks, and they all vary quite a bit in power output depending on the application. The best way to eyeball a 4bt for what kind of power it will produce is by the Critical Parts List (CPL) number. Also, if you are able to get the engine's serial number, call your local Cummins shop and they should be able to decode it for you and provide a configuration sheet. This will give you an idea of exactly what your 4bt is composed of including the fuel pump and turbo type.​
It looks like a vast majority of 4bt's out there are in the 105-130hp range. More research told me that is largely dependent on the kind of cooling, aspiration (turbo or non-turbo), and fuel pump in use. There are some running a little hotter, but they're really hard to find, moreso than the one I got, and more expensive. I was looking to spend $4k max on a low mileage 4bt. And I found it... on Craigslist. It was super shady but worked out in the end.​
In order to make 200hp, which I figure should get me around 500lb-ft tq, I'd need to upgrade and tweak certain parts. Research told me the best fuel pump for upgrade-ability was a ppump; more specifically, a P7100 pump (made by Bosch), rather than a VE rotary pump, which is more limited in how much fuel can be pushed through it. Extremely few 4bt's received a ppump, I found. I'd also want a 4bt with an HX30 (made by Borg Warner), an HE221, or TD04HL-19T turbo. I watched a couple of videos of people having trouble getting an HX35, which came on the 6 cylinder 12 valve 6bt's, to spool up with bolt ons, so I wasn't going that route. Finally, to make the power I wanted (which is well within this configuration's abilities) I'd have to make a few mostly bolt-on upgrades according to the 4btswaps forum [link]. Those are:​
  • HX30 turbo
  • Wastegate set to ~22psi
  • Intercooler installed
  • A PPump flowing 130cc, or 1000 shots
  • 3200+rpm governer spring
I used some CPL decoders and none seemed to give any meaningful information on CPL's unless they were in the 0-1000 range, and the engines in that range didn't come with the turbo or fuel pump I wanted. After searching online in a lot of places and correlating tidbits of information, I found out that a 4bt CPL#1839 came with an HX30 turbo, a P7100 pump, and produced 130hp stock. That's the one I looked for. It took me a couple of months, but eventually one popped up a couple of states away. I made an offer and picked it up that same weekend for $3,500. Ran when pulled and has ~37k miles.​
Code:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|                                   ReCon Engine Information                                  |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|Part Number    -   DR1683RX                       |Build Date                -   01-NOV-2004 |
|Description    -   ENG 4BTA 3.9 B 130@2300 P7100  |Fuel Pump Type            -   P7100       |
|Family         -   4b                             |Fuel Type                 -   DIESEL      |
|Liters         -   3.9l                           |Fuel Solenoid Voltage     -   12V         |
|Application    -   AUTOMOTIVE                     |Fuel Pump Governer Type   -   RQVK        |
|CPL            -   1839                           |Turbo Location            -   LMRO        |
|Aspiration     -   JACKET WATER AFTER C           |Oil Pan                   -   REAR        |
|Configuration  -   D383022BX02                    |Air Compressor            -   N/A         |
|Rated HP@RPM   -   130@2300 RPM                   |Vibration Damper          -   N/A         |
|Peak Torque    -   327@1700                       |PTO Location              -   N/A         |
|Torque Rise    -   35.29%                         |Paint Color               -   BEIGE       |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Transmission:
I decided to stick with my E4OD and upgrade it with 4R100 steel internals to handle the increase in power. This will also require an aftermarket transmission controller. DCS has used and recommends the [US Shift Quick 4 Transmission Control System].​
From all of the reading I've done, if you don't plan to increase the power of a 4bt, you can get away with using the stock e4od transmission in this bronco. It is good for an absolute max of around 500lb-ft of torque [link] [link]. Mine has 250k miles on it without a rebuild and, though I haven't abused it, I am trying to increase the power on the 4bt from 130hp to 200hp (~500lb-ft). So, because it's probably tired and needs a little love, I researched if I should get a new transmission or stick with mine and rebuild it.​
The ZF5 would have been nice and I seriously thought about it. That is the manual transmission offered for the 92-98 manual ford trucks. I love manual vehicles and the idea of having a vehicle that can run mechanically without electronics is very attractive to me. However, I live in the DC, Maryland, Virginia (DMV) area and traffic is a bitch. I have a motorcycle and a manual car, and I don't like feeling like my leg is going to fall off. So I decided to stick with an auto (because daily). But is there an automatic transmission that's mechanical?​
The E4OD transmission is allegedly mechanically controlled from the 1-3rd gears, and overdrive is electronically controlled [link]. That was a pretty big selling point for me, and since I already have an E4OD, I may as well stick with it. A common upgrade to the E4OD's is to have the aluminum internals replaced with the 4R100's steel internals. That upgrade will make the torque tolerance a lot better at around 1,000lb-ft and is a simple upgrade in that the two transmissions are virtually the same [link]. The E4OD was offered in the 92-98 automatic Ford trucks, and the 4R100 was offered in the 99-2003 ford diesel trucks. I will need an aftermarket Transmission Control Module (TCM), though, as the factory one can't be re-flashed or modified to accommodate the swap reliably or simply [link].​
Some additional very useful information in my calculations were these [E4OD Transmission Specs] and these [E4OD Torque Specs].​
The gentleman working to upgrade the E4OD let me know it'd be a good idea to grab a [Mag-Hytec] pan for a little better cooling and increased fluid capacity in addition to still running my factory transmission cooler. I figure more cooling is better, so I'll go that route. It'll increase the fluid capacity from the factory 17-18qts to ~22-24qts. Bonus, this also adds a better place to put the transmission temperature sensor. Since the E4OD didn't come with a temp sensor from the factory, a common place to put one is in the pressure test port on these transmissions. With the Mag-Hytec pan, it comes with a port tapped into it already. He also used a Transgo kit to do the rebuild and left the following notes of what was done on the invoice:​
REBUILD TRANSMISSION. UPGRADES INCLUDE, STEEL OD PLANET, 6 PINION STEEL FRONT AND REAR PLANETS, TRANSGO TUGGER SHIFT KIT, LOW REVERSE CLUTCHES, STEELS, LOW HOUSING AND COMPLETE SPRAG, 1 PIECE CASE BUSHING, STEEL ACCUMULATOR VALVES AND DUAL CLUTCH TORQUE CONVERTER. ALL CLUTCHES, STEELS BEARINGS BUSHINGS, SPRAGS, SEALS ARE REPLACED ALSO.​
Driveshaft, Axles, Suspension:
I will be using the stock axles, driveshaft, and suspension.​
I used [The Grimm Jeeper] to get an idea of how hard the 4bt will be working to move the Bronco. If I plug in the numbers (Ford E4OD transmission, Borg Warner 1356 transfer case, 3.55 axle gear ratio, and 32" tires) it tells me my RPMs will be 1853@70mph, which is a good cruising speed to me. Based on this, I decided not to do any re-gearing just yet. That'll be another later build along with suspension. Based on the power output of the 351w, I don't think the gearing or driveshafts will need upgrading just yet.​
Intake System:
Intake is one of the systems I figured would need a lot of customization. The shop and I agreed to try out some titanium (because why not?) charge pipes to and from the banks intercooler and aluminum for the intake. The intercooler is specifically for the 96 7.3l Powerstroke since I have the core support and radiator for the same.​
I used a universal filter that fit on the end of the 2.5" intake piping and angled it to be right behind the radiator.​
Fuel System:
In the interest of longevity, and since the tank would have to be dropped anyhow to get the fuel pump out at the very least, I decided to go with a replacement plastic tank from Bronco Graveyard. They gave me contact info for the manufacturer and I verified with them that the tank would be good for diesel fuel. They confirmed it would be as it's the same plastic they use in their diesel applications. I know this tank won't be as rigid, but it also won't rust. And to help with the rigidity factor, I contacted Desolate Motorsports for their aluminum skid plate. It has a little bit better coverage and also won't rust.​
The sending unit I hadn't planned to replace, but it was misplaced so I got one anyhow. Fortunately those can be acquired from Bronco Graveyard without fuel pumps attached. The shop will add the in-tank pickup lines and a fuel sock to complete the application.​
I did not upgrade the mechanical lift pump since I'm not drastically improving fuel flow. I decided against larger injectors, but did upgrade the fuel delivery valves in the interest of a little bit more power without sacrificing my fuel economy. I'm also leaning towards keeping things more mechanical than having a bunch of electrical systems.​
I'm also went with an AFC live tuning system from Power Driven Diesel since I commute a lot and go from sea level to higher elevation semi-frequently. This allows me to adjust fuel/air on the fly from in the cab and adjust smoke output to a degree as well.​
Someone mentioned I might consider a fuel/air separator. I figure this can be a future upgrade, but the engine didn't previously run with it and I don't think it would need it now. This build is emptying my pocketbook quickly, so it'll be a future me problem. If I do, I was looking at something like [this] Airdog 150 separator.​
Gauges and Dash Cluster:
I want to be able to utilize my factory dash cluster as much as possible. To monitor some of the important things, I'll also need to add some in a clean fashion. I'm not big on electronic displays that require a toggle to see different sensors and their measurements, and being that it's an older truck I want to keep it sort of era-correct.​
I used the factory sending unit so the fuel senses correctly. To keep my tachometer working, I used the tachometer kit that Diesel Conversion Specialists offers for the 4bt. The engine will only rev to 3k as I had a 3k governor spring assembly installed. Because of this and the alleged modularity of the OBS dash cluster, I played around with the idea of getting the OBS Powerstroke tachometer, but it was going to require more work than plug and play, so I'll just stick with the Bronco's. I'll continue to use the dummy gauge in the factory gauge cluster for engine temperature as well. I did get the plastic cover over the fuel gauge from a Powerstroke of the same era and put it on my Bronco cluster so it says "Diesel Only".​
I initially got the medium mocha 3 gauge pod from GlowShift, then decided I wanted one more gauge, returned it, and got the 4 gauge pod. They only offer the 4 gauge in black. After some research, I found someone [here] talking about SEM's Medium Prairie Tan matching up pretty closely. Using some vinyl adhesion promoter and that paint, the pod looks almost identical to my interior. I'm sure the variation is just due to age and UV exposure over time. The gauges going in this pod are oil pressure, boost, transmission temperature, and exhaust gas temperature (EGT). The gauges I got from GlowShift are black and backlit green to try to match the factory dash lighting.​
Power Steering System:
Fortunately, the engine came with a power steering pump. However, it wouldn't work if I added a mechanical vacuum pump. The reservoir neck to fill the pump with fluid would point more directly upward, which wouldn't be accessible or usable due to the p7100 being mounted above it and blocking it. A lot of research revealed using an old 90's GM Astro van power steering pump reservoir over the top of a dodge power steering pump. The reservoir fill neck angles out almost 45 degrees and wouldn't get in the way. That would take a little bit of junkyard diving work.​
I went with a PSC power steering solution for the 6bt's as shown in my parts list. It uses a remote reservoir, so that got mounted elsewhere near the brake booster. The power steering pump clears the fuel pump and works fantastic, much better than the old Ford one. I did have to order an extra oil line and fitting to get oil from the block to the pump, also in the parts list.​
Vacuum Pump System:
Vacuum is needed to operate both the AC switches and the brakes, making them power brakes. Because of that, vacuum is required in this swap. There were two options for creating vacuum, either install an electrically operated or a mechanically operated vacuum pump.​
An electric vacuum pump will need lines run to the battery to operate it. I didn't research this too much, but I imagine they are probably always on unless more wiring is done to integrate the circuit with the brake or a switch to activate it when needed. I read a post about someone who did integrate the circuit with the brake, but if you want AC that probably isn't very advantageous. In the Bronco, the AC controls are vacuum operated.​
I'm going with a mechanical vacuum pump. My 4bt didn't come with one, so I had to figure out how to add one that would operate with the power steering as well. Turns out the 6bt vacuum pump timing-gear-driven and fits under the fuel pump where the power steering pump was. The power steering pump mounts to the end of the vacuum pump and is also gear driven.​
Exhaust:
The shop and I decided 3 inch stainless exhaust would work out the best. I went with a four inch tip for it as well. The 3 inch exhaust was hard to clear between the transmission and firewall, over the rear axle, and along the side of the fuel tank. The shop is awesome and made it all work out, though. The outlet isn't quite 3 inches on the HX30w we found out, and the my turbo didn't come with a needed downpipe flange vband kit I sourced from CustomFabShop.com. That granted a 3" downpipe outlet.​

Cooling:
Even though I didn't need to, I decided to go with a big cooling refit. I wanted the cooling of a Powerstroke diesel of the same era. So I swapped out the radiator support from the Bronco with an F350's of the same year. Because of this, I used a Mishimoto aluminum 7.3l radiator, a Mishimoto aluminum 7.3l transmission cooler, a 7.3l Banks Intercooler, custom FF Dynamics electric fans, and a custom-fabbed fan shroud by the shop. This did require lengthening the hood-release mechanism, but that only involved welding in a little material to elongate it. The hood-release works as factory.​

Electrical:
I wanted to make sure that I had plenty of storage and redundancy for electrical, just in case, so I installed the BroncoAir dual-battery solution that uses a solenoid between the batteries to isolate each. A switch in the cab allows me to engage both if needed. This helps in really cold weather if the heater block isn't hooked up. Both batteries provide plenty of cold-crank amps to start the engine.​

Interior:
The interior is getting a ton of love. Double din stereo conversion (I love my nav and tech), 40/20/40 reupholstered front seats, all LED interior lights, new vinyl flooring, ceramic tint on all windows, all screw fasteners replaced with galvanized steel screws to stave off rusty screws, and heavy-duty sound deadening.​

I used the Double Din conversion kit from OBS Interior and installed an android head unit with Nav. It works with android auto on my phone easily. The front seats I pulled from an F250 of the same era. I like them a lot better than the captain chairs that it had. The flooring I got from Bronco Graveyard. The ceramic tint massively cut down on heat in the summer.​

The sound deadening I went hard on. After a lot of research and comparisons, I went with Sound Deadener Showdown's products (no longer in business, RIP) to deaden as much sound in the cab as possible. These things are noisy to begin with. Add a diesel engine and fat exhaust and it's unbearable for any length of time. I applied the 3 tiered system from SDS and some materials from Resonix when I ran out. CLD (constrained layer damper) tiles for resonance in the body panels (only needs ~25% coverage). On top of that went MLV (mass loaded vinyl) for sound blocking. And lastly, wherever I could find cavities that could fit it, I installed Hydrophobic Melamine Foam to further cut down on certain frequencies of noise and help prevent rattling of panels against each other. This system went down on the floors, over the wheel wells, up under the dash, doors, and even on the roof and A/B pillars of the cab. The difference was massive. Measurements are [here]. Find pictures and descriptions of the flooring and sound deadening install starting [here].​

Parts List:
Here's a comprehensive list of parts I've ordered along with the price tag at the time I bought them and links to them. Don't forget about taxes, shipping, and have extra room in your budget for last-minute smaller items (guess what I forgot about?). They stack up fast. As my dad says, "Make your budget, then add 20%". This is a little low-balled as there are shop supplies, my own supplies, and some random miscellaneous parts I needed I didn't track that stacked up extra costs by a few hundred bucks.​
ItemNotesSupplierPNPriceLink
Engine enamelDupli-Color Cummins BeigeAmazon
$14.11​
[link]
Engine enamelDupli-Color BlackAmazon
$14.11​
[link]
Engine primerRust-Oleum GrayAmazon
$7.50​
[link]
Gas Tank Skid PlateAluminumDesolate MotorsportsDES-01053
$299.99​
[link]
Transmission Control ModuleDiesel Conversion Specialists2159
$750.00​
[link]
Adapter PlateDiesel Conversion Specialists2040
$769.00​
[link]
Flex Plate for 6.0 StarterDiesel Conversion Specialists1235
$550.00​
[link]
Engine Mountsw/ isolatorsDiesel Conversion Specialists2081
$350.00​
[link]
Oil Press., Water Temp., AdapterSensor adaptersDiesel Conversion Specialists1031
$30.00​
[link]
Tee Vacuum Line for BrakesIncl. w/ conversion kitDiesel Conversion Specialists[link]
Tachometer KitDiesel Conversion Specialists2142
$303.00​
[link]
AC compressor bracketDiesel Conversion Specialists3068
$595.00​
[link]
AC Compressor linesDiesel Conversion Specialists1027
$131.00​
[link]
AC Compressor, DodgeDiesel Conversion Specialists1386
$165.00​
[link]
Power Steering CouplerDiesel Conversion Specialists2351
$25.00​
[link]
Lower Water Neck (45 degree angle)Diesel Conversion Specialists3102
$110.00​
[link]
Upper Water Neck (vertical)Diesel Conversion Specialists1029
$80.00​
[link]
4BT 8V 3.9L CUMMINS LOWER GASKET SETDiesel Power ProductsDPP-3802375
$133.16​
[link]
4BT 8V 3.9L CUMMINS UPPER GASKET SETDiesel Power ProductsDPP-3804896
$91.23​
[link]
Triple Gauge Pod & GaugesBeige, 3 pod, gauges incl.GlowshiftGS-346T-C7-PKG
$239.96​
[link]
Gas tankPlasticJeff's Bronco Graveyard30216
$145.00​
[link]
Sending Unit SealJeff's Bronco Graveyard30243
$2.00​
[link]
Gas tank breather valveJeff's Bronco Graveyard30259
$16.00​
[link]
Breather Valve SealJeff's Bronco Graveyard30259S
$6.00​
[link]
Rollover Breather Valve?Try to reuse old oneJeff's Bronco Graveyard30260
$109.00
[link]
Rear Tank Filler HoseJeff's Bronco Graveyard30218
$25.00​
[link]
Upper Gas Tank StrapsJeff's Bronco Graveyard30272
$19.00​
[link]
Lower Gas Tank StrapsJeff's Bronco Graveyard30278
$45.00​
[link]
Diesel filler neck92-98 F350LMC Truck43-3331
$209.95​
[link]
Core Support 92-97 PSFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-2868-T
$229.95​
[link]
Radiator Insulator Set-LWRFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-0934
$11.95​
[link]
Reinforcement Support-LHFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-2870
$29.95​
[link]
Reinforcement Support-RHFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-2871
$29.95​
[link]
Bolt-SupportFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck50-0216
$0.95​
[link]
U-Nut-SupportFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck40-0888
$0.95​
[link]
Rad Core Mounting Kit 18pcFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck43-0963
$89.95​
[link]
Bracket-Radiator Core MountFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck45-1465
$29.95​
[link]
Bolt-Mount BracketFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck40-0591
$1.25​
[link]
Nut-Mount BracketFor 92-98 F350 Core SupportLMC Truck40-0871
$0.60​
[link]
Transmission Rebuild (96-97 PS converter)4r100 steel internalsMaryland Transmission Specialist
$3,810.74​
[link]
Pod, Gauges, SensorsCame w/GlowShift kit & wiringGlowshiftGS-346T-C7-PKG
$239.96​
[link]
Additional Sensor, different pod, additional gaugeCame w/GlowShift kit & wiringGlowshiftGS-346T-C7-PKG
$71.29​
4bt Cummins Diesel EngineCPL#1839 p7100 pumpOther
$3,500.00​
Dowel Pin Tab w/ BoltKiller dowel pin fixPower Driven Diesel54001010006
$125.00​
[link]
Budget Builder 3K/4K Governor SpringsAdded adjustment toolPower Driven Diesel60700000001
$150.00​
[link]
Adjustable Turbo Boost ElbowPower Driven Diesel10920920512
$20.00​
[link]
4BT Cummins 055 Fuel Delivery ValvesPower Driven Diesel62001020001
$130.00​
[link]
AFC LIVE in Cab Fuel TunerPower Driven Diesel61001010000
$345.00​
[link]
AFC Foot for AFC LIVE InstallationAdded on AFC Tuner PagePower Driven Diesel61001010008
$40.00​
[link]
AFC Max Travel KitAdded on AFC Tuner PagePower Driven Diesel61001010007
$35.00​
[link]
Machined 8v Rocker PedestalRequired for ARP Head StudsPower Driven Diesel51816141300-1
$200.00​
[link]
Intercooler pipesPossibly reuse banks pipesWit's End
$1,255.00​
[link]
Downpipe and exhaust4 inch exhaustWit's End
$1,309.50​
[link]
Dual Battery KitBroncoAir
$418.00​
[link]
LaborWit's End
$22,006.42​
[link]
Ford 6.0 PS StarterMean green starterXtreme Diesel PerformanceMG6670
$369.95​
[link]
Oil Remote Filter KitPacBrakeXtreme Diesel PerformancePBHP10007
$234.13​
[link]
Radiator - 96-97 PSMishimoto AluminumXtreme Diesel PerformanceMIMMRAD-F2D-95
$395.95​
[link]
Front Mount IntercoolerBanksXtreme Diesel PerformanceBP25970
$1,531.75​
[link]
PSC PK1490 High Performance Pump KitDodge Ram 2500/3500 4WDXtreme Diesel PerformancePSCPK1490
$460.75​
[link]
ARP 247-4206 Diesel Head Stud Kit3.9L Cummins 4BTXtreme Diesel PerformanceARP247-4206
$332.31​
[link]
Dorman 904-810 Vacuum PumpDodge 5.9L CumminsXtreme Diesel PerformanceDOR904-810
$236.87​
[link]
AFE 49-90002 Mach Force XP Exhaust Tip4" In x 5" Out x 12" LXtreme Diesel PerformanceAFE49-90002
$66.49​
[link]
12V FREEZE PLUG BLOCK HEATER (89-98)CPP Diesel3313272
$72.95​
[link]
Mishimoto Transmission cooler for 7.3lMishimotoMMTC-F2D-99SL
$349.95​
[link]
SEM Medium Prairie Tan Vinyl PaintAutoPlus Auto Parts
Vinyl Paint Adhesion PromoterAutoPlus Auto Parts
CLD, MLV, HMF, Butyl Rope, VelcroSound Deadener Showdown
$467.12​
CLD, Butyl Rope, VelcroResonix
$127.89​
[link]
Transmission cooler 11"American Volt
$137.75​
[link]
Ceramic tint
$950.00​
Mag Hytec Transmission PanMag-Hytec
$371.00​
[link]
Electric Radiator FansFF Dynamic
$550.00​
Turbo cartridge & Fuel pump governorRebuild / balance / advanced 14*
$1,604.15​
40/20/40 Seats & ReupholsteredUpholstered in Porsche Terracotta
$2,000.00​
Off Road Power Steering ReservoirPSC
$275.00​
[link]
Odyssey AGM Batteries x2950 cca eachAutozone65-PC1750T
$610.54​
[link]
Throttle Position SensorTCI377450
$229.95​
[link]

Questions & Answers:
Questions I or others have had and their answers. I'll do my best to keep updated here to help avoid people needing to dig through comments on this thread for answers.​
Is swapping the instrument cluster from a 96-97 F350 diesel OBS into a Bronco a straightforward swap?
This is not a straightforward swap. It's likely the PSOM will need to come with the cluster. Also try the OBS or PowerStrokeNation forums for more information (thanks TravisITGuy).​
Does anyone know how the glow plug indicator works on the 96-97 F350 diesel OBS instrument cluster?
It appears these years did not have a glow plug indicator, just a wait-to-start (WTS) light.​
Also, the 4bt does not have a glow plug. An engine block heater and/or a heater grid is recommended.​
The block heater will go into a freeze plug port. You can find a block heater here [link] (thanks curtwow).​
The heater grid installs between the intake elbow and the head of the engine. Image for heater grid here [link] (thanks texaswoodswalker893).​
What kind of mileage can I expect to get with a swap like this?
I will get a more accurate number through testing once the swap is complete. I have been told with my current drivetrain I can expect to see between 20-25mpg. I've seen a couple of posts say 30mpg and one say 35mpg. I imagine the higher numbers are without performance upgrades like I'm doing, even though what I'm doing I think is very mild.​
Should I upgrade the cooling system such as the radiator and fan?
Generally 4BT does not get very hot by design. Since you don't plan to boost 4BT (bigger turbo etc.), stock Bronco or F150 radiator is sufficient enough to cool that engine even in hot climate. The only recommendation would be to get rid of 4BT stock mechanical fan and replace it with el. fan for the case if you tow some heavy trailer uphill in hot climate. Recommended el. fan would be from Ford 500 or similar. Junk yards are full of these very powerful dual fans, but it would not be bolt on. That would be the only thing needed. Bigger radiator is unnecessary overkill [link](thanks @milan65).​
Will I need to upgrade the suspension?
That is up to you, but initially, no. The 4bt weighs in at ~750lbs depending on dressings and fluids [link]. The 351w weighs in at ~510lbs with block, heads, and manifolds alone [link] and [link]. If your Bronco has the dual shock and coilover suspension up front already because it had a v8 (I don't know about the i6 model) general consensus seems to be you'll be fine. Additionally, Diesel Conversion Specialists confirmed this under the the "Engine Weight" section on their instruction page here: [link]. Understand your ride will be a little more nose heavy, but no more than if you put a snow plow or a heavy duty bumper on the front of your rig.​

Story Time!
Would you like some pictures? And a story too? Here you go!​
But seriously, this is a story and not meant to be technical at all. I have crap memory so I figured I'd write down the journey here.​
20190727 - Toll Hell
I really hate tolls. Being from the West, I had never experienced them prior to moving East. It's especially expensive when you have a third axle... go figure. Borrowed the trailer from a buddy after work. Three states and several hours later I get to the seller's house just before dark. He's ready to go with a backhoe and four or so other guys to help load this engine on the trailer. Not going to lie, I was concerned carrying that much cash and being confronted with several guys, but they were all incredibly cool and helpful. Weighed down with ~1000lbs of new dead weight, I cruise to a friends place nearby-ish, do dinner, and get home Saturday early in the AM.​

20190729 - Up A Creek
Finally get the trailer to (barely) fit in the garage. How the hell do I get this damn thing off the trailer? Time to shuffle things around and clean up this disaster of a man cave.​

20190731 - Lost the Battle
Rented an engine lift and had just enough clearance. Turns out trying to get it lifted and maneuvered alone was a chore. Didn't die, though. I discovered much too late that the cherry picker was actually bad. Left leg was bent upward just enough and the boom twisted to the left just enough that when I got it in the air, it started leaning and falling toward that leg. I hopped on the back of the lift like I was doing a box jump at the Crossfit Open, and it was just enough to rock it back and put the three good points-of-contact on the ground. After much shouting and banging on the ceiling, my girlfriend came down and helped me get an old damaged rim under the engine so I could sit it down and not be stuck standing on the lift all night. Precarious, but it was late and I had work. Keeping the lift partially loaded with the weight and a good jiggle-check confirmed it was tomorrow's problem.​

20190801 - Won the War
Attempt #2. I get the chain adjusted, shift the weight of the engine more toward the right leg, and voila! Finally get the dang thing off and tucked into the corner directly behind the lift on jackstands. The following day I take the cherry picker back and let the shop I rented it from know how it almost killed me. Y'know, brighten their day a little.​
Over the next couple of weeks I start unbolting the transmission since I'm not going to need it. I'm going to clean it up and paint it, I tell myself, before I take it to the shop and ask them to install it. Actual spoiler: I didn't clean it up before taking it to the shop. Two sheared off bolts and several days of soaking the sheared bolts in WD40 later, I decide the shop is better equipped to handle it.​

20190926 - Best Laid Plans
Tons of research and lots of communicating with the shop happen. I've made the parts list. I've built too many spreadsheets, compiled too many interwebs links, and obtained copious amounts of information from diesel shops and vendors around the country. I'm good to go... I think. I pull the trigger.​
After the shop graciously lets me borrow their known-good lift and I recruit a long-time friend and his truck, the engine (and transmission) goes to the shop.​
 
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#86 ·
the 7.3 diesels did have a TTB front end. so you should be able to locate sway bar brackets at the wrecking yard.

great work by the way
 
#94 ·
Somehow i
the 7.3 diesels did have a TTB front end. so you should be able to locate sway bar brackets at the wrecking yard.

great work by the way
Somehow I missed this lol I will head back to the yard and see if that 250 I took apart is still there and if I can steal the mounts
 
#87 ·
It's probably too late to change now, but that 7.3 radiator is overkill for the 4BT, you are going to have a heck of a time getting it up to temp, especially in the winter.

When I was running a 4BT in my Bronco I stuck with the original 351w radiator with an t-stat controlled electric fan. It took me months of driving before I ever heard the fan kick on even with that setup.
 
#88 ·
No worries @not.a.highboy, and thanks for the info @TravisITGuy! I'll take a look around to see if I can't find one.

@Dman94X I wish I knew that sooner, this cooling setup is a mild headache haha and I'm passed the return date on the parts. It should still get up to temp with the right thermostat though, shouldn't it? Blocks off cooling until whatever temperature it's made for is reached? Should I avoid going all out on a fan? I was looking at something like [this] from FF Dynamics, but if that's pretty unnecessary maybe I shouldn't put a fan at all in it for now? I was going to order the fan today probably.

I'm mostly concerned that I live in the DC/MD/VA metropolitan area so stop and go traffic is common and I don't want to have issues with that.
 
#89 ·
In my experience, and from what I read from others when doing my swap the 4BT does not generate a whole lot of heat which is why I ended up sticking with the original cooling system. I probably wouldn't go all out on a fan. Based on where you are now with your core support and radiator combo I would just pick up an OEM 7.3 shroud and run a mechanical fan.

If you want to go electric, I don't think you would need much. I was using a Mark VIII fan with an aftermarket controller. The more difficult part with this direction is the need to fab up a shroud that will fit whatever fan you choose and the 7.3 radiator.
 
#90 ·
Hmmm all right. Will a mechanical fan on a 4bt fit inside the OEM 7.3 shroud? My fan clutch and fan is gone, and a replacement is going to be much more expensive than an electric alternative unfortunately. That's mainly why I'm leaning toward electric. Fabbing up a shroud I think should be relatively simple for the shop I think
 
#95 ·
All right, so after some discussion, we decided the shop will weld up some brackets that will just drop the mount point for the sway bar down to clear the core support. Should hopefully be a bit easier and quicker that way.

I ordered and received the TPS sensor and "new" style bracket.


My order was based off the guide DCS has for the TPS sensors for a P7100 pump.


However, as it seems with a lot of things with this newer ReCon engine, my stuff seems not to match up quite right even though it came out of a bread truck. I suppose a bread truck still counts as the industrial version of this engine? The bracket assembly and linkage for the throttle seems somewhat different. Back to the drawing board for this thing. Might have to source an entire assembly so I can get the TPS on there. Who knows.


Also decided to go with a custom fan setup from FF Dynamics. It should bolt up like OEM to the 7.3l support and radiator. There is one fan shown but the second, below it in this box, is the exact same size. Since I'm hearing the 4bt won't produce that much heat, and might barely need the added cooling with a gas radiator when under load, I decided to forego the mechanical fan (also because the parts were a bit harder to find). Not having the mechanical fan will also save me a small power leech I think. The electric ones should be able to take care of any of my cooling needs paired with the bigger 7.3l radiator. The fan also came with the needed harnesses, sensors, and controller.



Another glamour shot, because why not? Sitting on the ground and looking in the engine bay, it fits nicely. Almost like factory haha.


I decided I wanted stainless steel piping for the 3" exhaust and needed to get an HX30w internal wastegate Downpipe Turbo Flange V-band Kit from CustomFabShop.com.


Downpipe got started as soon as I delivered it. Thanks Kenny, you're awesome!


The gauges are getting ready to go in, oil pressure, trans temp, EGT, and boost.


GlowShift didn't have a Medium Mocha 4 gauge pod. It came in black, so painted it up to hopefully match.
 
#101 ·
Wow... I can't believe it's been a month since the last update. Sorry about that. This last bit is going very slowly. All of the gauges and the pod for them are in and the exhaust is almost all there, just missing the last bend and the tip, but otherwise not much progress has been made. I spent quite a lot of time researching the throttle issue and just can't come up with a good bolt-on solution that isn't going to cost me 1k+. I asked the shop to fab up something and work their magic on it. Things have been going slowly at the shop, I think because of a large influx of other vehicles and some incidents such as not being able to pull cars into the bay due to an immobile truck blocking the bay door. I was very hopeful to be done by mid Feb, but I guess beginning of March? Still need charge piping and intake lines, fuel lines, coolant lines, and AC lines plumbed, and the transmission controller, AFC live tuner, electric fans, and power steering pump reservoir to be installed. Now that I'm typing this out and realizing what is left, I'm moderately concerned about the last month and am getting a lot more anxious about getting it finished.
 
#102 ·
It does not seems like a lot is left to do, but this is all before the engine gets fired up. Just hope it will all go smooth and there won't be any delays with some after the fact adjustments or fixes. Saying that because I had my truck up and running, and it died on my in the middle of the road. Had to tow it. Just when you start driving it - then - you'll see if there's anything else that needs to be done. Milan
 
#103 ·
Haha I sure hope that doesn't happen, but I'm expecting something to since so many thing have changed and were touched. That sucks about dying in the middle of the road though.

The last month and a half hasn't yielded much work, but after asking a few questions, plumbing supplies got ordered, so hopefully not far away now...

The AFC Live tuning unit has been mounted in the cab and lines installed to the AFC unit on the ppump.



This is where the screw to adjust the wastegate psi is, easy to reach.


The power steering pump has been mounted as close to "over" the power steering pump as possible.


The intercooler has been mounted up in what looks like it's final resting place. I think the back of the grill and maybe the subframe that holds the grill and headlights will need to be heavily trimmed to allow this to fit.

 
#104 ·
Once your conversion is done and your BKO is up and running - I'll submit you for FOTM. It will be pretty interesting reading. Your expectations (how quickly and cheaply this can be done). All the drama with shop. All the online searches you did, gathering parts, costs etc... Your detailed write up incl. cost is useful for other to see what's involved. Comparing your conversion with the pathetic efforts of some folks posting in FOTM - you should easily win. Given you posted with the same writing style and tons of pictures. It would be small retribution for all the headaches you are going through right now. Milan
 
#106 ·
Thanks gents! I appreciate that! Once everything is settled, I'll be going through to double check all my numbers on costs and updating that table, cleaning up the OP, and that will be that I hope haha until the next thing I do right after I get it back. Sound deadening and replacing the front seats with a 40/20/40 setup I had reupholstered.
 
#107 ·
Here's another small update:

The FF Dynamics custom fan setup bolted right up no problem (glad for that).


Leaves plenty of space between the engine and fans.


Fan relay and controller mounted on the passenger fender well behind the battery.


Fans are mounted with clips that push through the radiator fins and are secured on the opposite side of the radiator.


Power steering lines are plumbed in and completed. Auxiliary port is capped as shown at the top of the photo.

 
#109 · (Edited)
The gauges are completed as much as they can be and are operable as far as can be tested. They even dim when the headlights are turned on. Can't start the engine yet, but we're closer! Also that choice in paint for the pod was really close, I like it. I wouldn't notice the difference if I wasn't looking for it.


  • The shop found and is attempting to use a setup from TCI Automotive to solve the Throttle Position Sensor problem we've been having. It'll essentially be a cable with a TPS mount which will likely attach to the firewall between the throttle and the fuel pump. Hopefully that will solve my auto-trans throttle woes.
  • The fuel sock from a 6.0 is being used and will be cut to length for the fuel tank, then the tank can be mounted and lines run.
  • The hood latch support beam is too short now that I have the deeper core support. This will attempt to be extended or hood pins will be used. I'm hoping the extension will work and I'm also going to see if I can't source the longer beam.
  • The engine harness has been routed and mounted back up in the engine bay, looks super clean. I'll get a pic in the near future.
  • Transmission cooling lines have been hooked up to the auxiliary cooling ports on the aluminum radiator.
  • Getting the transmission controller and the overdrive on/off switch on the shift lever to be properly wired seems to be an issue. Still working that out with the controller manufacturer.
  • Crash sensors are mounted back up to the core support as well. The core support didn't have the mount points threaded so some rivnuts resolved that.
 
#111 · (Edited)
@BryanB Sorry it's been a few days. I'm not intimately familiar with AC systems so I talked it over with the shop. We are going to retain the original pressure sensor, but relocate it inline somewhere else. At least that is the plan for now, barring unforeseen circumstances. Hopefully this answers your question. I took a picture to see if this is what you're talking about?


Transmission controller is being installed. Phone calls to the manufacturer confirmed compatibility with the overdrive switch on the shift lever. This'll be about where it gets mounted, albeit more snug to the dash to keep as much foot room as possible.


Here's a shot of how all of the wiring has been installed. Incredibly clean, organized, protected, and secure. I appreciate the attention to detail a ton!


One of two charge pipes (not including any intake piping) is finished. A rigid 90 degree hose mates the pipe to the intercooler.




Here is a better shot of the transmission fluid lines running to the auxiliary cooling built into the radiator.


The subframe supporting the headlights and grill is on. It clears the intercooler with minimal trimming.



This is the piece needing trimmed off to clear the intercooler. It resides on the backside of this intersection on the subframe, right in the center of the grill/radiator area.


Because the diesel core support is deeper to fit the larger radiator, the hood latch support beam was too short and needed to be lengthened. The beam was cut in half and a piece welded in the middle and painted to extend the beam and retain the hood latch.

 
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