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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone I bought my first bronco today in Utah county and I'm very glad I did despite the fact that it's like looking at a whole new playing field. It happens to be my first "truck" other than a lil old Mazda b2300 I had forever ago. I have so so many questions that I already know are extremely stupid but I don't have much money and its a really nice platform to work off of.

List of things I've noted wishing 5 hours of ownership in order of importance to me of being fixed.

1st. The gear selector is so completely messed up (I thought it would be a couple of loose bolts on the bracket that holds the steering cable off the steering column but they do not wiggle at all) very frustrating and extremely finicky/unsafe to place in park or anything for that matter.

2nd (I'd really like to get this one done before it snows and I find my self with frost bitten fingers trying to pull a differential out of the junkyard) my front differential does not appear to be a stock one. I say this because it appears the 4x4 is vacuum actuated whereas the 96 I have had a push button. The diff is not connected to the driveshaft because the guy said it gave him 17mpgs without it. If it is vacuum actuated it doesn't appear to be an easy job to swap diffs(nor cheap) so I'd like help figuring out how to retro fit it into working

3rd is the suspension seams to sway an awful lot I assume it's partially from the 3 inch body lift and little tires (I really need to find new of both) but my gut really leans to of course Tierod ends and possibly the little shock that keeps it from exaggerating minor bumps and things (it's super late/early I can't remember the name)

4th is a series of little leaks one appears to be coming off the rear main seal(please no) and the other off the transaxle (not too worried about these I'll fix them when the time comes)

Thank you in advance for any help anyone can provide I could really use pictures and if any of you are in or around Utah county or willing to sell cheap parts (I really don't have money) I'd love to hear from you.
 

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Hey everyone I bought my first bronco today in Utah county and I'm very glad I did despite the fact that it's like looking at a whole new playing field. It happens to be my first "truck" other than a lil old Mazda b2300 I had forever ago. I have so so many questions that I already know are extremely stupid but I don't have much money and its a really nice platform to work off of.

List of things I've noted wishing 5 hours of ownership in order of importance to me of being fixed.

1st. The gear selector is so completely messed up (I thought it would be a couple of loose bolts on the bracket that holds the steering cable off the steering column but they do not wiggle at all) very frustrating and extremely finicky/unsafe to place in park or anything for that matter.

2nd (I'd really like to get this one done before it snows and I find my self with frost bitten fingers trying to pull a differential out of the junkyard) my front differential does not appear to be a stock one. I say this because it appears the 4x4 is vacuum actuated whereas the 96 I have had a push button. The diff is not connected to the driveshaft because the guy said it gave him 17mpgs without it. If it is vacuum actuated it doesn't appear to be an easy job to swap diffs(nor cheap) so I'd like help figuring out how to retro fit it into working

3rd is the suspension seams to sway an awful lot I assume it's partially from the 3 inch body lift and little tires (I really need to find new of both) but my gut really leans to of course Tierod ends and possibly the little shock that keeps it from exaggerating minor bumps and things (it's super late/early I can't remember the name)

4th is a series of little leaks one appears to be coming off the rear main seal(please no) and the other off the transaxle (not too worried about these I'll fix them when the time comes)

Thank you in advance for any help anyone can provide I could really use pictures and if any of you are in or around Utah county or willing to sell cheap parts (I really don't have money) I'd love to hear from you.
1- something is still loose.
2- You could get a manual transfer case or electric transfer case with manual or auto locking hubs. There was never any kind of vacuum actuation on a stock truck and no add ons that I am aware of. Your probably looking at the vent for the diff. If the PO removed the driveshaft for effiecency then your hubs are probably shot and locked all the time. Or he's an idiot. See if you can rotate the front axleshafts with the hubs unlocked, they should turn freely. If not you have hub issues.

3- Get rid of the body lift, they're no good. Check all your suspension bushings and body mount bushings. Alot of people never bother replacing bushings when they wear out on these old trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1Get bent those torx bolts are what I thought they'd be but they're fine. What else could be loose? It's just misaligned like for example to get it into reverse the shift select has to be set in r and the selector will stay in the position toward your for example if PRND12 looked sideways _-_ P being the first _ with the selector down towards the windshiled reverse would be resting on top of the -. Sheesh that's the best I can explain it. It's also extremely difficult to get the selector back in the direction towards park if it's set at 1. This makes me think it's a bad cable but it looks pretty nice and new.
2 pfun is right I think I'm looking at a vent hose that is plugged (again im new to all this) because the shaft spins freely

3 ok I'll check all the bushings adapt that's a very good place to start.
 

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1 - you could remove the steering column cover to get at the steering column mechanism. then drop the column to get access to all of it. Do some inspection on the U shape brackets holding the shift tube in place. They are held in by 2 torx bolts. Sometimes the U bracket is cracked or broken or the torx screws come loose. Also inspect the far end of the shift tube for broken or cracked parts. They make replacement parts you can get online or parts stores. Alternatively, you could grab an entire steering column from the junk yard for less money. Then you could swap over your key cylinder. Just try to find one within your year range that has the same connector styles and equipment.



also similar to this...



Also see this thread....
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189417



2 - pictures help alot.

3 - agree with above.
 

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2nd (I'd really like to get this one done before it snows and I find my self with frost bitten fingers trying to pull a differential out of the junkyard) my front differential does not appear to be a stock one. I say this because it appears the 4x4 is vacuum actuated whereas the 96 I have had a push button. The diff is not connected to the driveshaft because the guy said it gave him 17mpgs without it. If it is vacuum actuated it doesn't appear to be an easy job to swap diffs(nor cheap) so I'd like help figuring out how to retro fit it into working
The 4X4 is activated on the transfer case, not on the front diff. If you have vacuum lines on the front diff you might have gotten lucky and have a selectable locker like an ARB.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I "half" fixed the shift linkage problem its still very stiff when you try to move from 1 to P but atleast its aligned and can move fully to the end of both directions. Turns out the little plastic fitting that holds the little red string that moves the shift indicator broke in half and was zip tied to another cable causing it to move around quite a bit. i took pictures but can't get them posted for some reason.

as for the 4x4 I'm afraid the front locker has given up at least on the passenger side. i know for sure the driver side engages because after i pressed in the new U joints (on the drive shaft) and the driver tire was in the air i locked it in place and could spin the wheel with the shaft and visa versa however engaging the lock on the passenger wheel (while still on the ground) still allowed the driveshaft to spin freely. After i set the car down to test everything i engaged 4x4 and locked the driver side i noticed its super... choppy driving in a straight line is this normal? i shut it off and put it back to rwd and the choppy minor vibration went away. i also noticed if you went fast enough and let it coast it was smoothish?

OH and one very new discovery I'm not too concerned about, despite having 2 new o2 sensors my p0139 (going from memory I'm pretty sure thats the code) still comes on and I'm noticing there may be a subtle miss especially at idle... its probably just in need of a spark plug because its not overly often but it is noticeable when it happens.

Im also looking for a maroon tailgate my rear window has problems and i think someone backed into something with the spare tire on the back denting the tailgate.

sorry theres so much i work 56 hours a week and am up and about 16 hours a day trying to get all this stuff done and the bronco for some reason has been super overwhelming so thank you so much everyone for all the help.
 

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The front and rear differential gearings are not exactly the same. I believe the front is about 0.1 rpm faster than the rear. Normally, the 4X4 is engaged in low traction, so its not noticeable, but on flat pavement, some chopping is going to happen because of it.

If they're manual locking hubs, replacing them isn't that hard or expensive. I made the swap from the stock hubs to a set of Warn premium hubs this summer and was done in less than an hour. Since you know the driver's side works, change that one first so you know what things are supposed to look like when you pull the old one off. It will help to know that when you get to the passenger side and things come out in pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So a new hub cost me $12 at the junkyard but there's nothing wrong with the hubs. It's like its slipping in the differential. Also I ran into a huge problem trying to get the axle back through to the hub it will not budge. What should I look for inside the differential to know what's bad besides metal shavings and how the heck do I get the axle to come back through the hub.
 

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1 - you could remove the steering column cover to get at the steering column mechanism. then drop the column to get access to all of it. Do some inspection on the U shape brackets holding the shift tube in place. They are held in by 2 torx bolts. Sometimes the U bracket is cracked or broken or the torx screws come loose. Also inspect the far end of the shift tube for broken or cracked parts. They make replacement parts you can get online or parts stores. Alternatively, you could grab an entire steering column from the junk yard for less money. Then you could swap over your key cylinder. Just try to find one within your year range that has the same connector styles and equipment.



also similar to this...



Also see this thread....
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189417



2 - pictures help alot.

3 - agree with above.
:stupid. I had the bolts at the back of my shift tube come loose and cause difficulty getting it into gear. I tightened them but the shifter still had quite a bit of play so I dropped the column to check it out.

The upper bushing had worn and slid out from under the clamp where it's supposed to be. Because of the way it was worn I was able to just flip it around so it would stay in. I also greased it while I was there. Tightened my shifter up a ton. Now the only play comes from some where where the column lever pivots on the shift tube. Now as far as gears lining up, the detents that control where the shifter sits are in the transmission. The indicator is connected directly to the shift tube. If your indicator isn't showing the correct gear you can simply adjust it so that it does.

So a new hub cost me $12 at the junkyard but there's nothing wrong with the hubs. It's like its slipping in the differential. Also I ran into a huge problem trying to get the axle back through to the hub it will not budge. What should I look for inside the differential to know what's bad besides metal shavings and how the heck do I get the axle to come back through the hub.
A bad differential will usually have metal chunks in it. Can you get some pics of the old and new spindle bearing seals?
 
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