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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #321
Picked up some Grade 8 fasteners and installed them; I was using regular bolts for the mock up.



 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #322
Figured it was time to press out my ball joints:



 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #323
I sand blasted the housings, but apparently forgot to take a picture of them, old age sucks.
Got one coat of Rust Bullet on them:



 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Just discovered a read this whole thread.


Such a wealth of tech! :thumbup :ford





Oh; and GO BRUINS!!!
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #325
Thanks, I know a lot of the guys know how to do a lot of this stuff, but figured it may help those who might have questions. Also, a lot of the stuff I do is the way we did things 40+ years ago when we didn't have the aftermarket parts availability that we do today. Some of you may not agree with the way I do things, but hey, it works for me. :ford

Go B's!
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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along with JBG's radius arms and drop brackets. (notice my shop seats are Bronco Buckets :thumbup )

Dumb question:
Are the radius arms threaded at the ends? :brownbag

Your pic and JBG's website pic appears as though they aren't.



Pics of the JBG radius arms is what originally drew me to your thread.

How do you like them?
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #327
Dumb question:
Are the radius arms threaded at the ends? :brownbag

Your pic and JBG's website pic appears as though they aren't.



Pics of the JBG radius arms is what originally drew me to your thread.

How do you like them?
Yes they are threaded. The picture you showed, has the threads covered with a plastic cap so they don't get damaged during shipping. Look at the pics below:






I like them so far.... :popc1:
 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Yes they are threaded. The picture you showed, has the threads covered with a plastic cap so they don't get damaged during shipping. Look at the pics below:






I like them so far.... :popc1:
Awesome; thanks for the confirmation. :beer




Are you a CELTICS fan?

Huge fan, here! :thumbup
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #329
Sox, Bruins, pats, basketball seems soooooo slow to me. The game should be 15 minutes long, because the last 15 is the best part od the game. Dad still watches the Celtics, big fan, back to the days of Johnny Most & Red Auerbach.
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #330
So I had pressed the old pinion bering off the 4:11 pinion to re-use and measure the shim. However, I wrecked the shim so I ordered a new Dana 44 pinion shim set. I painted the old bearing red so I could keep it for mock up. I reamed it out just enough so I could slide it on and off the pinion for set up.



Worked like a charm, golden, right?

 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #331
Nope, opened up my $38 shim pack and not even phuckin close! WTF???

 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #332
Not to waste the day, I pressed in the upper ball joints...



...and the the lowers:

 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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So Rust Bullet comes in black now, eh?



When I used it 12-13+ years ago it came in only one color: silver.
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #336

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #337
Finally got my "correct" set of shims in today; good deal for $29, even came with a gasket, pinion nut and washer.



Here's a pic from their website, before I tore into my set...

 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #338
Sorry I didn't take any pictures during the set up, but I took it apart and put it together too many times and was starting to get a little tired. :doh0715:



In the end, I had a good pattern on the drive side...



... and the coast side. :thumbup

 

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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
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Sorry I didn't take any pictures during the set up, but I took it apart and put it together too many times and was starting to get a little tired. :doh0715:

In the end, I had a good pattern on the drive side...



... and the coast side. :thumbup


You got the correct patterns via the shims?
 

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Ford-a-Holic
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Discussion Starter #340
You got the correct patterns via the shims?
Yes, all adjustments are made by shimming. Removing shims increases pinion bearing preload, while adding shims decreases preload. The same goes for how gears mesh: by changing how close the pinion gear is to the ring gear center line, this is done by removing shims from one side and adding them to the other side of the carrier. Basically by, removing the bearings and shims from both sides and keeping them separate; if you took one shim from the right side and added it to the lefts side and reassembled, you actually moved the ring gear to the right. If you needed to move it left, you would do the opposite. The backlash is done with a dial indicator.
I can snap some picks with some of the basic procedures even though its together to show you some of the basics if it helps when I go to my shop Friday; obviously, because its back together, I can't show everything, but I'll do my best.
 
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