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1996 XLT Sport
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a 96, and I love it, just having small issues here and there I’m worried will snowball down the road. It seems I’m having electrical issues as some of my gauges won’t work, fuel, I took it to a body shop because I didn’t want to jack up the rear window, has new motor will go up and down with a drill battery but I don’t think dash switch works, but they got tired of messing with it so they charged me $50 bucks to put the window in basically, but now passenger window won’t go up or down. I can hear it hit the motor I think but would that motor go bad in a day or did those guys mess something up. I tested fuse 14 as it’s a 20a circuit breaker and it shows it’s good but would it possibly just be the fuse? Any good vibes are appreciated! Thanks for all the help on this thing so far! PS. I don’t have the tailgate key switch, just the key cylinder, I thought about just putting a new up/down switch Straight to the rear window motor so it’s functional, would I be able to do this? Has anyone done this, would there be a fuse I could just tie that new switch to without causing a fuss?
 

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Yo Kprov,
"...
169110

All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point." By Steve
○●
  • Single Power Window Inoperative
  • Window regulator electric drive circuits.
  • Window regulator electric drive.
  • Window regulator control switch circuits.
  • Window regulator control switch.

Wiring Diagrams @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series
Such as;
169117
 

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Years ago I tried to follow how the switching works for the windows, and tailgate window. I don't remember If I ever figured it out. However... I recall, it is very dependent upon good grounds. I don't have a '96 EVTM, but my '90 says the ground for the windows is at the bottom lip of the dash on the passenger side, and the ground for the tailgate is inside the driver's door near the left door speaker.

Make sure they are clean and tight, and that might just fix your problem.

Good luck.
EDIT: See miesk5's response below, he notes that the ground for a '92 - 1996 are different than those I listed above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not sure where this falls, so I decided to put a post up here....Working on a 96 XLT, I'd like to bypass the rear window switch, as I dont have the switch/assembly, I've got the cylinder but nothing else, all my wiring/harness and everything is in tact, but no rear switch assembly, I've got a new dash switch, but have not been able to find a good way to make that work? Is there a way to bypass the rear switch? Make it only work with the dash switch? Im sure this has been hashed over dozens/thousands of times just from reading some other posts but if there is a diagram for dummies on how I could bypass the rear stuff, come straight off the motor to the dash switch through the existing wiring if someone wiser than I can help with this please feel free to do so! I know the motor works bc I can run it up and down with a drill battery. Just thought I'd post this here for any help! Much appreciated!
 

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Gary keeps some really good docs up on his site. It's heavily focused on the Bullnose, but I'm pretty sure the wiring for the rear window stayed the same from 80-96. Check out this wiring diagram for details.

 

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1996 XLT Sport
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just wanna bypass the rear stuff and run straight to the dash switch. Just put new dash switch in. Driving me nuts
 

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I just wanna bypass the rear stuff and run straight to the dash switch. Just put new dash switch in. Driving me nuts
Just bypass all the tailgate stuff? Connect the P/LG wire from the dash switch directly to the Y/R wire to the motor, & the PK/LB wire from the dash switch directly to the R/Y wire to the motor. Be sure to cap off the BK/W wire since it's hot all the time. From here on you'll have to be careful about the tailgate position when you operate the window since the latch safety switch will be gone.

If you want to keep the latch safety switch in the loop, then the PK/LB wire connects to the T/BK wire instead of the R/Y wire.

It's been a long time since I was in there, but I think the color breakdowns are:
P/LG = purple? with a light green tracer.
PK/LB = pink with a light blue tracer
Y/R = yellow with a red tracer
R/Y = red with a yellow tracer
BK/W = black with a white tracer
T/BK = teal? with a black tracer

Diagram by FireGuy50 via Steve83.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow, lots more posts in here than there were. Looks like a couple of threads got combined.
I think so, I had initially had this one and couldnt find it...will try it this evening woke up to a cold zapped dead battery this morning...makes for a good day
 
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