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1995 Ford Bronco, 5.0L, E40D, 33" Wranglers, 4" lift, 1 loose nut behind the wheel.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. My new project is a bit worse off than I expected. I'm working on a 95 Bronco with a 5.0. it was hydrolocked by po and left that way for a couple months. The rust rings are pretty thick. I might try to get it rotating just to say I did it, but I'm starting to look at my 96 Explorer as a possible donor.
Can anyone tell me if this is possible and the differences between these motors?

Thanks in advance.
 

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1996 ford bronco XLT 5.0
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I would think it would just fine in terms of fitting it might even be an upgrade considering the explorers came with gt 40 heads. but i dont know about wiring and if you computer would work . i own a 96 bronco with a 5.0 and i know for sure the computers are different because its odb 2 truck . but im interested to hear from people on this post who are more knowledgeable lol.

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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Similar, current thread here:


That's specifically for '99 Explorer swapping, but contains lots of relevant info.
 

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1995 Ford Bronco, 5.0L, E40D, 33" Wranglers, 4" lift, 1 loose nut behind the wheel.
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I guess my question has two parts.
What do you think the likelihood is of me being able to hone the rusted cylinders at home?
 

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I guess my question has two parts.
What do you think the likelihood is of me being able to hold the rusted cylinders at home?
by 'hold' do you mean 'hone'?

you can give it a shot, but be prepared to just have it bored over if the walls do not come out perfectly smooth. (hint, they likely won't)
 

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1996 ford bronco XLT 5.0
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If i am not mistaken , if there is any pitting whatsoever on those cylinder walls from rust the engine at the very least would need to be bored out (if the block is able to be anyways ). But if its really bad it might be best to find another block or send it to a machine shop before you do anything and see what they say . you might tear the whole thing down build it back up for it to only have bad compression because you just honed the cylinder and sent it .

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1996 ford bronco XLT 5.0
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As far as the computer goes i would try and stick to what system your truck came with in my opinion anyways or you could find a standalone system which isn't cheap and get it tuned . when or if you pull the motor repair your harness clean the wires up retape and loom any exposed wires and clean and replace any grounds . just less headache at least to get it back on the road while you come up with a better foundation of the route you want to go . also make sure the computer is good in your check check for bloated capacitors and rust on the board .

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You should also check bore taper that engine might be worn out that's another thing to check esp if there's a big ridge toward the top of the cylinder

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The problem with honing them yourself is project creep. To hone them you need to remove the rods/ pistons. At that point, you mine as well put in new rings. And since you're take apart the rod journals, you need to plastigauge the rod bearings and see what kind of wear you have there.

Buy some Evaporust, pull the heads and fill the cylinders with it and let it sit.
 

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1995 Ford Bronco, 5.0L, E40D, 33" Wranglers, 4" lift, 1 loose nut behind the wheel.
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
As far as the computer goes i would try and stick to what system your truck came with in my opinion anyways or you could find a standalone system which isn't cheap and get it tuned . when or if you pull the motor repair your harness clean the wires up retape and loom any exposed wires and clean and replace any grounds . just less headache at least to get it back on the road while you come up with a better foundation of the route you want to go . also make sure the computer is good in your check check for bloated capacitors and rust on the board .

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I'm not trying to swap the electrical system. I think I'd buy a motor before it came to that. Although I'd love obd2, I'm not sure California would let that fly.

My idea is to use the 96 explorer shortblock with everything from the bronco bolted onto it. If I can use some expy parts on the expy block I might go for that. I think no matter what I should plan on running the stock efi setup if I want to pass smog. I am hoping to just eliminate having to buy a shortblock so far.

From what I have read, the explorer is set up with a roller cam and gt40 heads. I'd need new exhaust manifolds in order to use the heads because the port pattern is different on the expy. I'd love to get some power out of it and an expy motor sounds like an upgrade compared to the original motor, but if I have to modify my electrical system to fit it, I might just wait till I can afford a real motor.
 

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From what I have read, the explorer is set up with a roller cam and gt40 heads. I'd need new exhaust manifolds in order to use the heads because the port pattern is different on the expy.
That's only for the GT40P heads, mid-'97 and newer. '96 to mid-'97 GT40's fit standard headers/manifolds.
 

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i would do the 96 Explorer engine. using it as a long block it would be almost direct swap upgrade. using it as a longblock and swapping everything from the original engine to it makes it pretty easy other than potentioal broken bolts. no wiring needed

there are only 2 things and that is the block is usually not drilled and tapped for a knock sensor in the original location. some people put it in a different bolt hole. some people ignore it. some people drill and tap the hole. its not really that important but its still a sensor. the other is depending on emmisions in your state, the heads do not have thermactor ports. part of the broncos emmisions system is injecting air into the back of the heads through the thermactor port. so if emmisions are strict then that may be an issue otherwise alot of people delete the emissions anyways. you can still bolt the emmisions up to the engine, it just does not function.

why put a bunch of time into the old engine that you know will probably be trashed. if the pistons are frozen into the cylinders, you might be able to get it freed up to run but it will never run amazing. otherwise you do a rebuild and that gets expensive quick.

HOW was it hydrolocked. if it was done offroading for example, there is a good chance you bent a rod making the engine almost junk. this was one of 2 bent rods i had after hydrolocking a 302. i did manage to force it to work but it had crappy compression and made alot of noise because the piston was actually hitting the counterweight of the crankshaft.
 

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1995 Ford Bronco, 5.0L, E40D, 33" Wranglers, 4" lift, 1 loose nut behind the wheel.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i would do the 96 Explorer engine. using it as a long block it would be almost direct swap upgrade. using it as a longblock and swapping everything from the original engine to it makes it pretty easy other than potentioal broken bolts. no wiring needed

there are only 2 things and that is the block is usually not drilled and tapped for a knock sensor in the original location. some people put it in a different bolt hole. some people ignore it. some people drill and tap the hole. its not really that important but its still a sensor. the other is depending on emmisions in your state, the heads do not have thermactor ports. part of the broncos emmisions system is injecting air into the back of the heads through the thermactor port. so if emmisions are strict then that may be an issue otherwise alot of people delete the emissions anyways. you can still bolt the emmisions up to the engine, it just does not function.

why put a bunch of time into the old engine that you know will probably be trashed. if the pistons are frozen into the cylinders, you might be able to get it freed up to run but it will never run amazing. otherwise you do a rebuild and that gets expensive quick.

HOW was it hydrolocked. if it was done offroading for example, there is a good chance you bent a rod making the engine almost junk. this was one of 2 bent rods i had after hydrolocking a 302. i did manage to force it to work but it had crappy compression and made alot of noise because the piston was actually hitting the counterweight of the crankshaft.

I appreciate the info kingfish. The only reason I hesitate on using the explorer motor is aside from needing registration, a fuel pump and being 2wd (we live in snow country) it's not a bad vehicle, but the whole family likes the bronco better. If I can get away with using the explorer motor I still think it's the best way to go with the resources I have.

The Bronco motor was flooded on a river crossing. The bronco has a 4" lift and the PO says the water was up to the bottom of doors. The guy showed me pics, it was a wide crossing, so I dont think it was revving when it drank water, I can't imagine he was going too fast where he was from what I saw.

I worked on the Bronco again today. My girlfriend pulled some strings and got a place for us to park the bronco at her friend's parents house. So I don't have full access to the Bronco whenever I want, or else I might be further along. I guess that leads me to the second reason I don't just rip the motor out of the explorer. The expy is parked on the street in front of my apartment. Before I pull the trigger on a real swap I need to have a clear vision of where all of these puzzle pieces go before the explorer gets taken apart. I also need to have all of my ducks in a row before I make a mess at the place the bronco is parked. I definitely can't being the explorer there.

Last night I drilled the broken bolt out of the left side cylinder head. I think I did an ok job. I just need a suitable pick to remove the remaining partial sleeve of bolt that's left in the hole.

Today I pulled the pass side cylinder head. I did my best to remove the exhaust manifold lower flange nuts, as this time the manifold was blocking the outer rear head bolt. I snapped both of the manifold flange studs off but the manifold is out and now so is the head.

At this point a can say that I have 4 nearly unaffected cylinders. Aside from sitting for a couple of months with the plugs out of it resulting some very light surface rust, 4 look clean. I have 2 that are concerning.

With the heads off I mopped out all of the water out of the cylinders then I used contact cleaner to get the residual moisture out then soaked it all dry with blue paper towels.

I filled the cylinders as full as I could with Evapo-Rust then shot some PBlaster on top to help above the water line. I will go check on it every day to see if I can get it to turn. We will see what they look after a good soak...

I also pulled the front bumper and removed the winch. I brought the winch home, spread some towels on the coffee table and pulled it apart. I cleaned the ends of the brushes and cleaned up the contacts on the armeture. I reassembled the motor side and opened up the planetary side of the winch just to check lubrication. Everything looks great. Afterward I hooked the winch up to my jumper pack and it works fine on the table. So reinstalling the winch and getting the synthetic rope spooled is a great reason to get back over to the bronco and check progress.

Sorry, I suck at pictures. I should be getting shots of the problem, the effort and the results. I'll do my best to get pictures next time I'm out there.
 

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1995 Ford Bronco, 5.0L, E40D, 33" Wranglers, 4" lift, 1 loose nut behind the wheel.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Also just a little while ago we went out to the explorer and popped the hood. I'm intimidated by the gt40p heads and the exhaust manifold problems I'm asking for by doing this swap. Without disassembly the best I can do is look at what I have to determine what parts might have. So far I see kind of smashed tube exhaust manifolds with some wild routing.and heat shields all over them.
 

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1995 Ford Bronco, 5.0L, E40D, 33" Wranglers, 4" lift, 1 loose nut behind the wheel.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is probably a subject for another post. One of my newest concerns is the colorful hard plastic vacuum lines. I have some experience with Fords and I have spliced one or two lines here and there but I have never seen entire connections with four lines just break off like they're doing on this motor. I basically have brakes everywhere in the vacuum line system and I'm wondering if anybody knows how to get new line to make this right again.
 
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