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I got my flex-a-lite fan off of ebay and here is my write up of the install had to modify the mounts a bit to make them fit to the factory shroud mounts



fan with all the parts
img]https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/307900/fullsize/dsc00469.jpg[/img]
stock fan removed, it would have been easier if I removed the radiator hose and cold air intake


backside of flex-a-lite fan


drill holes through the center divider for the drivers side fan

i
Wire through the center divider



drilled holes for electronic control unit

the stock hole for the ecu fit with the factory shroud on this side


view of the factory holes with my new holes drilled


control unit mounted


holes drilled for fan power wires


Feed about 12 inches throught the holes to hook up the power wire to the fans


I decided to solder the wire instead of useing the 2 into 1 connecters it came with


fan power wires hooked to the control box


The mounts that came with the fan where pretty useless so i figured out how to cut them up and make them work. the scribbles are lines i made that changed the others are where i cut


the other side


the one on the left is the bracket after being cut the one on the right is after i trimmed it to be the bottom mount


both bottom mounts cut and trimmed


bracket on the left for the bottom are done brackets on the right are for the top, but haven't been trimed yet


bottom bracket painted so they don't rust





passenger side bottom mount installed. the left screw is factory the right screw was a self tapping screw added in with a hole i drilled in the mount


same thing for the other side


both bottom mounts installed the outside holes are the factory ones with threads in the shroud. the inside holes where srilled through the mount and i used self tapping screws into the shroud


holding the new passenger side top mount up for measurement


same thing for the drivers side


same thing, again it would have been easier to take the cold air intake off


top mounts marked with hole marks and where to trim to match the top of the radiator


test fitting the passenger side i decided to use the factory mounting locations on the top too


test fitting the drivers side


installed the temp sensor. the radiator was too thick to put the cap on the other side.


hooked up the ground wire


passenger side mount trimmed, painted and installed. I used the stock fan shroud mounts and bolts for both top sides.


driver side mount trimmed, painted and installed

the rest of the wiring is up to you on how to wire it and where to wire it, i tapped into the windshield wipers for the swithed power. power wire went straight to the battery with the fuse holder that was included.

any question just ask and I will try to repond the best I can

thanks
Jason
 

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That's a great writeup, I'm sure there will be lots of folks interested in this.

How's it working, cooling as well as the stock fan, turning on/off as it should, feel any difference in power (no stock fan providing drag on motor). You still using the stock 95A alternator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Shadofax said:
That's a great writeup, I'm sure there will be lots of folks interested in this.

How's it working, cooling as well as the stock fan, turning on/off as it should, feel any difference in power (no stock fan providing drag on motor). You still using the stock 95A alternator?
it seems to be working very well compared to the stock fan, it usually only needs to turn on when i've been sitting still for a min. i just changed out my temp gauge at about the same time and haven't had a chance to install the mechanical gauges i bought a few weeks ago to really see how well its doing. will keep you updated when that is done.

yes I am still using the stock alternator and it keeps up ok with the fan and the a/c going but i am going to upgrade to a 200 amp as so as I get a chance anyway.
 

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How much was the kit on Ebay? I have been wanting one also. Can you turn the fans off if you wanted to? Like for water and any other reasion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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drinkbrew said:
stock fan drags on the motor why else
you can also turn off your fans during water crossings. And, if you are doing low RPM activities you still get lots of cooling. Great writeup BTW, lotsa pics.
 

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your part number on summit FLX-295 is $369.88

My part number on summit FLX-298 is $299.95

simply cause it is called direct fit it jacks the price up $70.

Just fair warning for everyone who is thinking of doing this.
 

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Cody said:
your part number on summit FLX-295 is $369.88

My part number on summit FLX-298 is $299.95

simply cause it is called direct fit it jacks the price up $70.

Just fair warning for everyone who is thinking of doing this.
Jobber is:

For the 295 Part Number $449.10, and distributor cost is $413.17
For the 298 Part Number $362.33, and distributor cost is $333.35

Places like jegs and summit are whores, granted I like whores but in this case they sell thing ALOT cheaper then the manufactur recommends.

direct fit is worth the extra money to me
:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
broncos&bombs said:
any difference in power, mpg, ect?
I did notice a bit more power but couldn't tell you any concrete numbers I've only had the truck about 1 month and have done all the upgrades in that time and combined has made a pretty big difference in power i'll get some better numbers once i get a chance to hook it to my laptop again. as for MPG's I can't keep my foot of the skinny pedal enough to see anything better then 10.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cody said:
hmm you got rip, you could have got the same thing for $298 at jegs i think or summit. Get the universal one.
the universal one is the same thing but doesn't come with the control unit and all the wiring, to me it was worth a few bucks extra
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cody said:
accessory man i would understand if it did went in without modding the brackets and such but he had to hack his brackets to peices.

and the control module i wouldn't trust them, my buddies melted at the terminal and came loose. I bought the painless wiring kit for $45.

But to each his own.
ok just to make sure i have my math right since I got ripped of as you say

what I bought 295=344.95

what you bought 298 299.95 + painless wiring kit 45=344.95

Thanks for pointing out that there is another option for others to use. You decided to go a different route for wiring and temp sensors but basically the same price. The brackets are the same for both fans, they are universal brackets, I choose mod them to fit the stock mounts because it only took a few mins with a angle grinder and a touch of spray paint plus I already had them. If you did it differently then by all means post write-up and help the rest of us out instead of just criticizing mine.

I agree with you on the probe sensor and I'll probly be changing mine when i get around to installing my mechanical gauges. plus i still have a few other things to clean up on it.
 

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mine went on a camaro, and when i saw your post i saw the retail price. So if someone was to buy one from a diffrent source they would be aware of it now.

But keep an eye on the module cause on long trips they sometime start to melt. all that electric going through it weakens it to the point that they melt sometime. Hate for ya to overheat.
 

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Nice install, I have the same thing. Works great....except the wiring. I did everything just like the directions and it was fine for about 9 months. One wonderful summer day I was driving on the highway and the fans quit no big deal cause I was on the highway. It became a big deal once I got off the highway. Luckly i pulled in to Lowes and purchased the appropriate parts for a quick fix.


This pic shows the part I fixed (bottom connector) and the power wire above it which was partially melted.


After an examination of the failed connector Im pretty sure water got in the end of the connector where the wire goes in an it slowly corroded the wire causeing heat. Eventually the fans stopped working. What scares me the most is that the wire burned through and the fans stopped working all with out blowing the fuse!:shocked

Im not saying take the fans out, but I would watch the power out wire going to the fans, or go buy heat shrink connectors and put loom over all of it (which is what I did.) it doesnt look the greatest, but it has been going strong for a while. Here is the pic of the burnt connector, notice the nice burning colors on the side.


Here is how it is today


With the new weather tight connector.
 

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What scares me the most is that the wire burned through and the fans stopped working all with out blowing the fuse!:shocked

Im not saying take the fans out, but I would watch the power out wire going to the fans, or go buy heat shrink connectors and put loom over all of it (which is what I did.) ]
The only way to INCREASE current in your fan circuit and blow the fuse would be to DECREASE the resistance in the circuit.

But, more resistance in the case of a corroded connector would DECREASE the current. It usually would not be a very apparent amount since its limited to such a tiny area. However the added heat is enough to melt the connector.

I had the same problem on my E-fan install. I had a spade lug on my 85 amp relay that was tightened against the plastic insulator that surrounded the stud. The large amount of current was flowing through the nut, then through the small surface area of the spade lug. This heated up the spade lug connector, melted the plastic and pushed it into the plastic insulator...insulating it from the nut and the stud. The fix was to sandwich the spade lug between 2 nuts, so it doubled the surface area that current was flowing through. No more problem.

As far as your connectors, I would heat shrink EVERY connection you have. Buy the adhesive lined stuff that Ryan McCormick sells. Its the cats ass. Thats the most important part to seal a connection. Split loom is ok, but the good heat shrink is the most important part. After I started using it, I havent had a single problem with a connection.


If i planned to swap my 351 to a 460, will today's e fan install be affected by the engine swap later?
Make sure you use the Lincoln/Thunderbird fan. The Taurus fan would be adequate, Ive run half a day of fourwheeling in Ocala Natl forest in October heat with the AC on with a single Taurus fan, but it was behind the whole time, playing catch up. Never overheated, but it ran hotter than I wanted.

I ran a Thunderbird fan for a while and had 0 problems with it overheating in stop and go traffic.

I went to dual Taurus fans for the redundancy factor and the "why not" factor.
 
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