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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking to swap everything under my bronco for something new.
Now i Searched for 'body swap' and 'frame swap' and such but I cant find what i want to do.
I want to keep my body, engine, trans, rad, ps pump an whatnot. And from the donor truck i want the frame, suspension, steering, axles, and all that good stuff underneath.
Im wondering what this would entail?
Would it be easy enough to get my stuff onto the donor frame without any hoist? (EDIT: probably a terrible question. Im sure i could get hold of one somewhere)
Essentially if anyone has a thread or write up of this process it would be great for me to be able to look through.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Checked it out

Went to Steve83's supermotors page and it looks like he just has parts from many years but i dont see a 'frame swap.'
Heres his description. "The body tub is an '82, the tailgate is a '96, the doors are '80 & '94 with '94 power mirrors, the front clip is '84, and the camper shell is a '96 with a '94 Explorer roof rack & '82 sliding windows..."
 

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Other thread is a repeat/duplicate thread, so Im gonna post here, too.

Why are you going through all the trouble of swapping everything from a 96 onto an 89 frame?
 

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yo,
here is Some info; very diff to do without a lift of some sort.
Stormfinder's 95 Frame swap into an 85
Only major diff btween earlier years is that 92-96 have Convolutes in front (often called da accordion sections; it is part of the SRS Design).

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showt...finder-s-4BTA-Diesel-Bronco-swap.-Version-2.0

The Body Mounts are a pia; so be ready to spend time and get bruised..
see LINKs for the mounts and other info in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=37
including;
Cleaning & Rust Proofing
Frame Service; Drilling Precautions, Straightening, Reinforcing, Member Replacement, etc.

Differences from 80-96, Strength & Dimensions; "...This got me thinking and I just found my Standard Catalog of 4x4s book. It has info on every model year domestic 4x4. It doesn't really specifically talk about frame differences from year to year, but it does have a Chassis Features section for each Bronco year. Here's what it has: (1980-1985) Separate body and frame, box-section welded frame. 3.95 in. section modulus (1986) Separate body and frame, single channel, 5 cross members, welded frame. 3.66 in. section modulus. Maximum side rail section: 6.95 x 2.12 x 0.170 in. (1987-1989) Separate body and frame, single channel, 5 cross members, welded frame, 36,000 psi steel. 4.27 in. section modulus. Maximum side rail section: 7.01 x 2.12 x 0.202 in. (1990-1992) same as 87-89 but also notes low carbon steel (1993-1996) Separate body and frame, single channel, 5 cross members, welded frame, 3.66 in. section modulus. Maximum side rail section: 6.95 x 2.12 x 0.170 in. low carbon steel..."
Source: by BurntOrange at FSB http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10525

Diagonal or X-Frame Checking Method
NOTE: An alternate method of checking frame alignment is to use a frame gauge.



Frame alignment can be checked without removing the body from the frame (5005) by using the diagonal or X-frame checking method.

This method should be used to identify misalignment prior to any attempt to straighten a frame.

Place the vehicle on a clean, level floor and set the parking brake.

Select at least four points along the left frame side rail (5015) and transfer these points to the floor with a plumb bob. If desired, paper can be taped on the floor along both sides of the vehicle below the frame. Mark the points on the floor as accurately as possible.

Locate the corresponding points along the right frame side rail (5016) and transfer these points to the floor in the same manner.

Move the vehicle away from the marks on the floor, and measure diagonally between all points on the floor. Both measurements should be equal within 6.35mm (1/4 inch).

Measure between corresponding points parallel to the frame side rails. These measurements should be within 3.18mm (1/8 inch) of each other.

The squareness of the frame side rail web to the floor at the spring hangers and at the steering gear mounting location should be within 1.59mm (1/16 inch). The squareness of the frame side rail web to the floor at all other points should be within 3.18mm (1/8 inch). The web and flange should be square at all other points within 3.18mm (1/8 inch).

Any point on one side rail should be within 3.18mm (1/8 inch) ahead, behind, above, or below the corresponding point on the opposite side rail. The frame side rail should not be bowed more than 3.18mm (1/8 inch) for each 2540mm (100 inches) of frame length. The overall width of the frame should not vary more than 3.18mm (1/8 inch).

An alternate method of checking frame alignment is to use Rotunda Laser Measuring System 073-00451 or equivalent.

Before checking frame alignment, inspect all frame members for damage, cracks, twists, or bends.

Check all welded connections for cracks. Inspect all rivets, bolts, and body support brackets for looseness

If a damaged frame member is to be replaced, new bolts, Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8) fasteners and rivets required for replacement of parts should be of the same specifications as the original bolts or rivets. In cases where it is necessary to substitute a bolt for a rivet, use the next larger size bolt.

Read more
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info miesk. Sry if it seemed like a double post, im just looking at different parts trucks right now. I want to keep my body and whatnot because i know my parts are clean and strong and have no problems except everything underneath. if i go buying another whole truck i have no idea what could be wrong with the engine and trans.
 

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I still don't understand why you are going to buy a whole other truck. Is there something wring with your '96 or are you wanting to know just in case?

Are you seriously considering removing everything from a pre '96 frame, and putting everything from your '96 onto it?! That's a sh!tload of work. Its your truck and you can do whatever you want, but in any circumstance I can think of, buying another truck seems more practical.

On the other hand, if you are talking about buying a Bronco that has a bad engine or transmission, and using your known good components, that's another story.
 

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Chillin on the Gulf Coast
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I took an 89 and swapped the electronics, engine and trans from a 96 F-150 XL into it. I am going to swap a 92-96 body as well. The dash and such from the 96 just doesnt work well in the 89 tub. Plus my tub is fairly rusted. But to answer the why an 89 question, the 87-91 have a very strong frame with no crumple zones. Back in Louisiana you have to go down some very tight trails and a lot of the newer trucks end up tweaking the frame because of the crumple zones. Basically I took the best frame, IMO, and put in the best electronics, a good motor, and soon to be a rust free body.
 

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I still don't understand why you are going to buy a whole other truck. Is there something wrong with your '96 or are you wanting to know just in case?
I am wondering the same thing what is the point in this swap? Is your frame rusted out?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
more pics

Okay heres the problem with my fame and all. Including a busted shock tower, radius arm, and 2 shocks.
so I'm thinking of getting a parts truck for cheap...$500-$800?
hopefully you guys can see these pics
thanks for the opinions and responses so far, everything helps.











 

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holy crap thats pretty bad
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You're telling me! I think the guy towed boat with it and must have never rinsed it off after putting the boat in and out each time. :doh0715: When I first got it I though I'd have to replace some parts and scrape off some surface rust. But now the frame is really starting to concern me.
Maybe I can strengthen the frame in some way instead of getting a whole new one??
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Body

Surprisingly the body is in good condition. only a small bit of paint picking off on one fender. (other side of truck, no pic of that side at the moment)

 

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Dude, that rust is insane. (Runs and hides his bronco out in the middle of the desert to get away from the rust). But yeah you would do well to do a frame swap. It is a fair bit of work though. I would personally find a cheap rust free (or best you can get) bronco and tear it down and clean up and paint the frame while the body is off. Remove the steering gear box and if needed fix any frame cracking there. Then remove the body from your truck, transplant the drivetrain and then install the body. BTW, that is a great looking body on that truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Dude, that rust is insane. (Runs and hides his bronco out in the middle of the desert to get away from the rust).

Haha. Thanks for the response cajun, and everyone else. I need all the feedback I can get in order to gauge what I really want to do with this bad boy, cause I feel lost right now.

I should probably say that I should have a good amount of time in the spring/summer to work on this, just a small budget is the thing. And I dont have a ton of experience with this stuff.
 
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