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yo,

Some info in these threads that will help;

93 Ranger Cab in an 88
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38094


Body Removal pics & info from a 96 in a 94
Source: by CodysBigBlueBronco (how much $???) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/12062/33157


Body Removal & Mount pics & locations in a 91
Source: by ChuckVA (Chuck, Da Bronco) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=10180&s=29535#content

Front End Clip Swap in a 90 (COMPREHENSIVE w/Tool List)
Source: by flame god at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43266

Door & Tailgate Description & Operation, Removal & Installation, Adjustments, Lubrication & Specifications in a 96

Wiring Harnesses & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco
use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as Air Bag or E4OD, etc.

more to come or ask for specific info needed.
 

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Miesk!

This is the link I have been looking for!

Wiring Harnesses & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco
use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as Air Bag or E4OD, etc.

Thanks!
 

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Miesk, you're the man.
So what do you think considering my position?
yo,
I am prob is same situation as yoy Sage. I do not have a garage anymore, so I'd be battling the elements and ants and squirrels while I tried to do the work without a lift; and all that is needed. I'd do this
Truck Frame Rust Removal And Prevention

I too, am back to using Rust-Oleum primers, etc.
 

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yo SAGE,
Looking back, (and if I placed following in my previous post, you may not see it since you are on-line now); as GetBent4x4 advised.

and you may find a shop to Media Blast a lot away, but they do charge a bit of $

Here is an example; "...anywhere from 30 to 50 bucks an hour ...I just had a 34 pu frame and suspension done cost me 300 and took 10 hours and was done at the cheap end of their rates (business aquantaince)...they used something called starblast that doesen't damage the metal.." by agawam


Soda Media - Soda Blasting http://www.eastwood.com/soda-blasting/soda-media.html
Big $$$
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I've thought about media blasting, as well as doing the rust removal myself. I did actually start with an angle grinder, but some of the frame is rusted through as in the pics, and the front end is just unworkable.
Maybe I'll do a quick run over everything, coat it, then work on saving for new stuff and do that all later on. Ill have to reassess everything including the truck, time, money, etc now that i have some more info.
 

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How are the rest of the body mounts? I like the idea of repairing your frame, but it's not worth it, IMO, if it's rusted through in multiple areas and has bad body mounts and suspension brackets. Do you have any cutting tools? I doubt there are many fastners underneath your truck that will back out and that will be an issue no matter what you decide to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Main tool i use for cutting is an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel, no plasma cutter or anything. Mechanic claims that i need a few new body mounts. And you're right, all the fasteners are crap, besides maybe on the the leaf spring hangers (new) and on one of the radius arm brackets which i just put on.
 

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Your next job should be to thoroughly inspect your frame for any structural weaknesses that cannot feasibly be repaired. Knock off any thick, flaking scale with a wire brush then hit the frame with some cheap rust killer and you should be able to see what you are working with. You should obviously be on the lookout for breaks/cracks, but with all the scale and surface rust, pay close attention that there are no large areas of framerail that have become too thin over time to support any weight/structure. Also be sure to check anywhere the frame is boxed, such as around the steering box, as these areas could be difficult to repair. Do you have any junkyards local? You can source everything you need from a pull your part type junkyard in a couple hours and save some cash. Transplanting your entire body and drivetrain should be your last option. Give your frame a good once over and get back to us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Your next job should be to thoroughly inspect your frame for any structural weaknesses that cannot feasibly be repaired. Knock off any thick, flaking scale with a wire brush then hit the frame with some cheap rust killer and you should be able to see what you are working with. You should obviously be on the lookout for breaks/cracks, but with all the scale and surface rust, pay close attention that there are no large areas of framerail that have become too thin over time to support any weight/structure. Also be sure to check anywhere the frame is boxed, such as around the steering box, as these areas could be difficult to repair. Do you have any junkyards local? You can source everything you need from a pull your part type junkyard in a couple hours and save some cash. Transplanting your entire body and drivetrain should be your last option. Give your frame a good once over and get back to us.
Good plan
anyone have opinions/experiences with a needle scaler? Needle scaler vs. grinding wheel and flap wheel?
(And unfortunately i cant get to the BKO til Fri, so ill let you guys know then)

EDIT: found some info on the needle scaler, posting the link in case anyone comes across this thread looking for the info
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63752
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Alright after thorough consideration, I think Im going with the swap! I got a few more opinions and others seem to think its a good idea. Just need to find a nice chassis. Let the searching begin, Im sure I can find a very cheap rust-free Bronco around... :rofl:


Merry Christmas
:santa
 

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Alright after thorough consideration, I think Im going with the swap! I got a few more opinions and others seem to think its a good idea. Just need to find a nice chassis. Let the searching begin, Im sure I can find a very cheap rust-free Bronco around... :rofl:


Merry Christmas
:santa

Too bad you ain't around Texas we have some NICE Rust free Bronco's out here CHEAP... I picked up a 91 without a Title for a parts truck.. Runs and Drives down the road for $500... Body and Interior is in GREAT shape...:beer
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Too bad you ain't around Texas we have some NICE Rust free Bronco's out here CHEAP... I picked up a 91 without a Title for a parts truck.. Runs and Drives down the road for $500... Body and Interior is in GREAT shape...:beer
Wow that sounds awesome man :thumbup
I do wish i was down south actually, I'm quickly growing tired of LI.
No good places to wheel around here either! :banghead
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=835691&Number=1387488#Post1387488

You're closer to Fenoff's, Rausch Creek, Rok-Park, & the Pine Barrens than I am to SuperLift. :thumbup
True, maybe I complained too much.
But I mean It would be nice to have even a little something out here on the Island. Well i know there is but perhaps less authorized than some of us would like. For now I'm waiting for some snow, hopefully the temp drops a good amount from the 45 degrees its been so far this year :crazy
 

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Have you thought of purchasing one and having it shipped? My buddy has a solid 91' chassis out here in Vegas that he wants to part with. He pulled the motor for his 66 mustang and basically still has the rest of the truck. If stripped to a rolling chassis it would probably ship for less than you would pay for one in this shape out east.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Have you thought of purchasing one and having it shipped? My buddy has a solid 91' chassis out here in Vegas that he wants to part with. He pulled the motor for his 66 mustang and basically still has the rest of the truck. If stripped to a rolling chassis it would probably ship for less than you would pay for one in this shape out east.
You think it could be that cost efficient?
I've seen some for 400-1000 bones, haven't looked at any though yet so I don't really know what they look like underneath. I assume it could be a good idea.
 
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