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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a 1996 Bronco EB 4x4 351w auto with 120000 miles it seams to run good the paint is a little weak on the hood the intrerior is very good and the ac blows cold as a whores hart,the tires are a little weak also.one owner Arizona truck it is factory stock what kind of fuel mileage should I expect ? I bought it to use for hunting this year so fuel milage is no big deal ,just want to know if it needs a tune up or if it can be improved ,best I get in town is 11.5 mpg and on the highway 14 if I keep it under 80.also I paid $3800.00 for it ,is that a good price or did I pay too much ?:thumbup
 

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To tell if you paid too much, the guys here would need to see pics of pretty much everything. As far as milage I get 13-14 city, 15 with a light foot. And highway around 16-17 driving hard. Your number for city sounds like normal, but highway sounds a little low. A tune-up can never hurt, and you would be suprised how much better milage you get with the tires inflated properly, you should check. Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
only the hood needs repainting ,the clear coat is shot .the rest is great cherry red metalic and tan 2 tone .not a hint of rust anywhere and no dents.front and rear bumpers are perfect .this truck is unmolested. guess I'll give it a tune up and air filter and see if the fuel mileage improves.going to try the FMS m-12259-c301 wires and an MSD 8227 coil ,a cap and rotor ,and 8 NGK plugs . .I'll decarbonize it first and change the fuel filter .is there something I'm missing?:duh
 

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Here's your route:

1) Check out sewiv's tech writeup on ignition mods and timing bump.
2) Do that.

Coming from Sixlitre, our father of ignition brilliance, all you need for the most power and least cost is:

8 cheapo autolites
1 msd 8227 coil
a good cap/rotor
Taylor SpiroPro or FMS 8mm wires
and bump your timing to 13-14

Seafoam it.
 

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my underhood sticker says that you cannot change the timing on a 1996 F-series/Bronco since they are OBD-II. so, how does he change the timing?
 

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i have a 96 351 v8 133K miles no lift and 33x10.50s, bought it from a gov auction for $5600, but it was a forstry truck and i know there where some mods just dont know what they are. but i am getting about 14-15 city and 19 highway and this is GPS verified. and i have drivin this thing for 4 years and put 66K miles on it and i did all the tuning at 145K so i know its about time again, and still getting this milage. but have fun in it i have loved mine since i got it.
 

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Bronco4Life said:
Here's your route:

1) Check out sewiv's tech writeup on ignition mods and timing bump.
2) Do that.

Coming from Sixlitre, our father of ignition brilliance, all you need for the most power and least cost is:

8 cheapo autolites
1 msd 8227 coil
a good cap/rotor
Taylor SpiroPro or FMS 8mm wires
and bump your timing to 13-14

Seafoam it.

Ahhhhh grasshopper !

you are now full master, arise and walk with pride !

Just to add a bit of info for Buster 351

The Autolites will do FAR better in a Ford smallblock that the NGKs or any other high dollar plug. For some reason, they just love Autolites cheapies or low-line Motorcrafts. Don't take my word for it, go to Mustang sites and see what they recommend, it's Autolites.

Also, gap them suckers out to .055 or even .060 if you have the cahonies. Big difference, when used with that MSD coil.

broncomedic

I just knew you 351 guys were holding out on us !!!!

I always figured a well tuned 351, in a Bronco, ought to be able to beat a 302 in mileage. It only makes sense because it works less hard to accelerate it.

Sixlitre
 

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Bronco4Life said:
Here's your route:

1) Check out sewiv's tech writeup on ignition mods and timing bump.
2) Do that.

Coming from Sixlitre, our father of ignition brilliance, all you need for the most power and least cost is:

8 cheapo autolites
1 msd 8227 coil
a good cap/rotor
Taylor SpiroPro or FMS 8mm wires
and bump your timing to 13-14

Seafoam it.
I agree that is pretty much the setup i have; msd cap and rotor, msd coil, FMS 9mm wires and I average 12-14 mpg in town and that is with a very heavy foot (love that k&n sound lol) and i haven't even gotten around to the timing bump or headers yet
 

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Haha Six, figur'd one of these days I'd pick up a tid bit of knowledge from you guys.


Bri_Guy5 said:
my underhood sticker says that you cannot change the timing on a 1996 F-series/Bronco since they are OBD-II. so, how does he change the timing?
Well, you can adjust the base timing. On all of our computer controlled trucks, the timing is controlled by the computer when the SPOUT connector is plugged in. If you were to look at the timing while the spout is in, you'd see the timing change probably 5+ times a second, but the base timing can still be adjusted.

To do this, you just unplug your spout connector, fire the engine up, and set your timing to 13-14 BTDC. Make sure you do this when your engine is warm! When you're done, shut her off, and plug the spout connector back in. Whenever I change my timing, I always unhook the battery cable and let it sit for about 15 minutes to clear the computer out. This is because the computer is a "learning" computer, and it does build a modified ignition table or something of that nature, and I figure it would be better to reset it, and let the computer learn some of the variables over again since you just made a slightly big change to the way the engine is running.
 

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drinkbrew said:
I agree that is pretty much the setup i have; msd cap and rotor, msd coil, FMS 9mm wires and I average 12-14 mpg in town and that is with a very heavy foot (love that k&n sound lol) and i haven't even gotten around to the timing bump or headers yet
I can understand not getting around to 5 hours (or more) of misery installing the headers, but shame on you drinkbrew!;) for not taking the 15 minutes to bump your timing !

If you love to hear that sound, you'll love it even more when it means you're coming out of the hole faster and getting even better mileage to boot.

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
GOT IT,will use Autolite plugs and bump timring. not too keen on K&N filters they let too much junk in ,I have used them in the past and when you do an oil analisis the silicates are way higher with a K&N .
 

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BUSTER51 said:
GOT IT,will use Autolite plugs and bump timring. not too keen on K&N filters they let too much junk in ,I have used them in the past and when you do an oil analisis the silicates are way higher with a K&N .
What choices are there to K&N Buster ?

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Don't know ,I use regular paper ones in my 2005 chevy hd 2500 4x4 ext cab Duramax/Allison with a free flow exaust and a predator 85 hp tune ,and my 2000 Z28 6 speed 382 cid 456 rear wheel horsepower,and they both preform pretty good.
 

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BUSTER51 said:
Don't know ,I use regular paper ones in my 2005 chevy hd 2500 4x4 ext cab Duramax/Allison with a free flow exaust and a predator 85 hp tune ,and my 2000 Z28 6 speed 382 cid 456 rear wheel horsepower,and they both preform pretty good.
Yes, but to give GMs (of late) their due they always seem to have more surface area for their air filters to perform, in stock form.

I could never prove the K&N drop-in improved the mileage of the bronco. Even at damned near 20 mpg there just wasn't enough of an improvement to show up as a measureable one mpg.

As soon as I dropped it into my 90' Lincoln Town car, bang ! instant solid 2 mpg increase on the hwy. Same conditions three days in a row, same trip and a solid 2 mpg difference with the K&N drop-in.

The bronco always felt better after the K&N drop-in, but I guess a 3% gain just doesn't show up on vehicles getting less than 20 mpg.

I'd never heard that about the oil getting dirtier with the K&N before. That's got me thinking.

Sixlitre
 

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Make sure to get that K&N i made a ton better gas with that sucker!
 
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