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Discussion Starter #1
So i will soon be swapping all my tailgate guts (regulator, motor, glass, latches all that good stuff) from my busted rusted cant be trusted original tailgate to my new replacement. So im trying to cheat and find out what pieces i should order ahead of time to swap over.. like rollers, bushings, bumpers. Hoping to use your expierences to my advantage. This is my daily driver so im hoping to be able to paint it and switch it out in a weekend.
 

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So i will soon be swapping all my tailgate guts (regulator, motor, glass, latches all that good stuff) from my busted rusted cant be trusted original tailgate to my new replacement. So im trying to cheat and find out what pieces i should order ahead of time to swap over.. like rollers, bushings, bumpers. Hoping to use your expierences to my advantage. This is my daily driver so im hoping to be able to paint it and switch it out in a weekend.
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Easy answer
search in junk yards in AZ, NV, & so CA. We never see rust in those places, but it wouldnt hurt to ask. ALternative hire a FSB member in Phoenix to pull one for you and ship. Huge dollar savings for good stuff.
Buy the whole thing and install it. Paint before or after install
PaulW
 

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Discussion Starter #3
just becuase its rust free dosent mean its not wore out.. im looking for high wear parts to replace. i work at a large shop with a body shop so i got a sweet deal on a new one from my sheet metal supplier
 

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Not sure about parts that will wear out, but you should go with new inner and outer seals at the gate and maybe the new runner in the top itself. Don't skimp here.
 

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I'd pull the window motor apart and replace the drive bushings and re-lube it
Replace the torsion bar brackets (if your tailgate is rusty these are rusty, and if they break, your back window will be history).
Clean the latches really well to get all the old crap out of them.
Get a handful of the retainers for the rods, the old ones break really easily and the new ones will make life so much easier when you want to swap them.
Replace the check straps if the covering is broken anywhere on it (water will get in a they'll rust again)

When taking the window out, you don't have to remove that bracket on the bottom of the window, just leave then on (it's the bracket that's riveted to the window). You can replace the window back in the tailgate, and then put in the new weatherstrips. (Blue painters tape will protect the paint when you're putting the window back in.)

Along with what Bad Droid said, get the corner blocks too.

Good Luck
 

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yo,
This is my TG LINKs section in my site;
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=478
Excerpts;


Replacement in an 88 (many photos) BEST PROCESS!
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/tailgate.html

This is what the complete regulator looks like once you have pulled it out. One of the reasons why my window wouldn't go up or down was because the regulator was so rusty. The arms wouldn't move freely because of the lack of lubrication and lots of friction. I could barely move the arms by hand once the motor was taken out. I got another one from a junkyard for $50 and the problem has been cured.

If your regulator is still in good shape, you should prevent the arms from moving before taking out the motor. I used a bolt and a bracket I found around the garage to secure the arms from snapping together

The three nylon bushings inside the motor are a common source of failure. These bushings are driven by a worm drive and are what makes the outer gear rotate. I have heard of replacing them with ball bearings or some dowels wrapped in fuel line of the right size.

The next step is to remove the bracket holding the torsion bar to the body. Take extreme care here as the bar packs a lot of force. I recommend trying to remove the bracket while the tailgate is as closed as possible to relieve pressure on the bar. I was foolish enough to do it with the tailgate down. Both bolts broke off allowing the bar to snap back and sent the bracket off to never-never land. I was never able to find the bracket so I had to get another one

The only things left inside the tailgate are the two window runners, each is held on by two bolts. On one of my runners, a mount was rusted off as shown in the picture. This allowed the window to sit crooked in the tailgate and did not allow it to slide up and down easily.

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MIESK5 NOTE; ck for bracket rust; get new ones @ Jeff's http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-82-tailgate-bronco.html
also other parts incl


Stainless Steel Tailgate Cable Bolts & Washers # 28472 1978-96 Ford Bronco Price: $65.00


Window Motor Gear Repair Kit # 34554A 1993-96 Ford Bronco Price: $12.00

OEM Window Regulator Roller # 34557 1980-96 Ford Bronco Price: $6.00


Window Regulator Bracket Bushings (4 Per Window) # 34556 1980-96 Bronco Each Price: $6.00

Bottom Glass Bumper, Each # 34560 1980-96 Bronco Price: $5.00


Tailgate Check Cable, Bronco # 34562 1980-96 Bronco Price: $13.00


Tailgate Striker Bushings (plastic) # 34514 1983-96 Ford Bronco PairPrice: $6.00

Weatherstrip


Lubrication in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."
Source: by Ford


Motor Gear Replacement; "...This is the repair kit (DOAZ-62234A24-B $27.37 List; $20.53 in 2004), but you can also use 1/4" fuel hose with thin plastic tubing inside to reinforce it & cut to length, or even appropriately-sized nuts to fill in where the original rubber insulators were. There are also aftermarket suppliers of the delrin bushings visible inside the gear assembly, and they cost ~$5 for the kit. The pointers show what's left of the rubber insulators, which probably degraded faster due to the excessive grease inside the gear. As the new part demonstrates, NONE is required inside the white plastic gear. The metal & nylon gears simply slide up off the shaft. The kit includes grease to lube the central shaft & the outer teeth of the new gear before installation. Reattach the seal plate, & reinstall the motor on the regulator. Push or pull the glass slightly to align the gears so the motor mounting holes will line up. Lube the regulator gears while you have access. There's also an aftermarket repair kit available from any parts store that deals in MotorMite HELP! parts - it's just the 3 delrin bushings (green pointer), and you stuff them into your gears. Advance charges ~$8 for them, which is a rip-off price. Many people just drop 3 steel nuts in; they'll never wear out. You can also use sections of coil spring cut to length, thick rubber hose with something inside to keep it from collapsing, or even just fill the gears with epoxy..." in upper left click Next for next pics and captions
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/160906

Glass Roller Installation pics in a 95
Source: by Ian L (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco) at http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4089&s=18220#content


Glass Replacement & Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...Open tailgate. Remove inside cover access panel and retaining screws. Remove inside cover panel support and retaining screws. Remove inside cover watershield. Manually close both tailgate latches and raise the tailgate glass. Remove four nuts retaining tailgate back window glass (42006) and back window glass bracket (422B18) to back window regulator. If tailgate has heated glass option, disconnect two terminals (driver's side). Grind off four rivets, two on each back window glass bracket to tailgate glass. Punch out four rivets and remove four door window glass channel bracket retainers (234A46) and door window glass bracket spacers (234A44). Remove screws and pull out tailgate upper corner seal assemblies, one on each side. Snap out inside and outside tailgate weatherstrips with tool. Slide tailgate back window glass out from tailgate assembly. Installation, Slide glass midway into tailgate assembly. Connect heated glass wires, if equipped. Install back window glass bracket C-channels onto the tailgate window regulator arm slide guides. Position tailgate back window glass over back window glass bracket C-channel studs and install four door window glass bracket spacers, door window glass channel bracket retainers and rivets. Lower tailgate back window glass to connect heated glass wiring terminals. Close tailgate and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure smooth operation. Install watershield. Install inside cover panel support (one screw). Install ten inside cover access panel screws. Close door and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure proper function..."
Source: by Ford
Item Part Number Description
1 41610 Outside Weatherstrip, Tailgate
2 23394 Window Regulator Electric Drive
3 380642-S Screw, Outside Weatherstrip-to-Tailgate
4 42072 Inside Weatherstrip, Tailgate
5 40700 Tailgate
6 57472-S2 Bolt, Back Window Glass Run-to-Tailgate
7 422A20 Back Window Glass Run
8 387392-S Bumper
9 44000 Tailgate Window Regulator
10 422B18 Back Window Glass Bracket
11 57472-S2 Bolt, Tailgate Window Regulator-to-Tailgate
(4 Req'd)
12 42006 Back Window Glass
13 43505 Lock Cylinder, Tailgate
14 41616 Upper Corner Seal, Tailgate
15 376389-S Screw, Tailgate Upper Corner Seal-to-Tailgate
16 14559 Clip, Window Regulator Switch Retainer
17 43629 Retainer, Tailgate Lock Cylinder
18 385323-S Rivet, Back Window Glass Bracket-to-Back Window Glass
19 234A44 Door Window Glass Bracket Spacer
20 234A46 Door Window Glass Channel Bracket Retainer
21 234A24 Window Regulator Drive Gear Kit
A � Tighten to 6-11 Nm
(53-97 Lb-Ft)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
gotta love the wealth of knowledge on here :rockon
so it sounds like i outta put new bushings in the motor (ive heard of the ball bearing trick before.. but its nice for the bushings to fail first as its designed to) the rollers (just 2 of these right?) lower bumpers (how many of these are there?) torsion bar brackets.ive already replaced all the seals and weather strpping on my old tail gate along with the check straps and the rod retainers. ive limped this thing for as long as i can.
 

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I had to buy a new tail gate for my Bronco. I did paint the inside/bottom of the gate with POR-15 . I still need to switch all the guts into it. I cant wait to do it.
 

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Not in the tailgate, but related... The plastic strikers on the two pins that the latches grab on the body. Super cheap and will help for a great fit!
 
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