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Discussion Starter #1
The center A/C duct is trashed and no amount of patchwork will help it. I'm trying to figure out what to do as I've revamped my system entirely and it blows cold and furiously. The output from the stock box is a rectangular port facing up and I need to adapt this to a rectangular port facing out, but offset slightly to the right side. No reproductions are available as far as I can tell and a used one is going to dilapidate quickly due to the materials used. Any creative thoughts?
 

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patch it with carbon fiber and epoxy.

Ive had a similar issue with my dash cracking. The thin old ABS plastic the 92-96 dash's were made of just doesnt hold up well to time and sun. After looking for about 4 years I finally found a really good dash with only very minor damage. In order to prevent it from cracking in the future, I layed down 4-5 layers of Carbon Fiber on the inside surface of the dash. It made it so much more rigid, that I doubt it will every crack in the areas that I re-enforced.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
A friend of mine looked at it and mentioned that I may not want to do something fully rigid because it will be very difficult if not impossible to install/service. I suppose that's the exact reason why Ford had originally made it out of flexible ducting. Their choice of materials for the membrane between the ribs was very poor, however. It's just not durable at all. Otherwise, CF or even fiberglass would be a good solution and boast improved airflow due to the smooth interior.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The output of the center duct from the system measures 6.16" x 2.40", rectangular. The input to the register assembly measures 3.63" x 5.0". It's a short 90 degree elbow that's offset to one side. I think by 1979 the entire flexible duct assembly had been replaced with a rigid plastic piece, which I have. Mine's in great shape so I'm reusing that, but the center register duct elbow is totally shot. Unfortunately, the majority of the cool air exits from the center registers so I'm really going to have to figure this out properly. I'm gonna see what I can find online.
 

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I've never seen any new solution for that flexible duct, which is unfortunate as it brings out all the asshats trying to retire on pieces in just as shitty condition as yours.

When it comes time for me to get mine in less holey condition, I'll be using a fabric and 3M spray adhesive to cover the duct while it's in the proper shape. It should do well enough to get the majority of the air to the intended exits and still allow me to tweak it to get it in and out of position.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think I'm going to Solidworks 2 adapters. One to go from the system output to 3" tube and another to go from 3" tube to the rectangular output that fits the vent register. Using 3" flexible ducting for the connection, obviously. Cross-sectional area of the output is around 15 in sq which is right about what 3" tubing supports, so that's why 3". 3D print the adapters out of nylon for the heat resistance.
 

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I think I'm going to Solidworks 2 adapters. One to go from the system output to 3" tube and another to go from 3" tube to the rectangular output that fits the vent register. Using 3" flexible ducting for the connection, obviously. Cross-sectional area of the output is around 15 in sq which is right about what 3" tubing supports, so that's why 3". 3D print the adapters out of nylon for the heat resistance.
Please let us know how this works and if you're able to make multiples and sell them. I had the same problem and have a really poor duct tape/dryer vent tube solution that isn't working very well. I've seen lots of guys post in facebook groups about the lack of replacement availability, so you could make a little easy money on the side if you wanted to.
 

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I was able to piece mine back to a useable condition using the aluminum duct work sealing tape from the hardware store. Works good so far and I think the adhesive is somewhat heat resistant.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, the aluminum duct tape is what I had on mine for a while as well. It works if the skeleton of that duct is mostly intact, mine got a bit destroyed on removal so will necessitate replacement.
 

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Yeah, the aluminum duct tape is what I had on mine for a while as well. It works if the skeleton of that duct is mostly intact, mine got a bit destroyed on removal so will necessitate replacement.
Mine was just shards of fabric occasionally attached to the wire frame. If you catch it early I can see how it might be repairable.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here's a pair of adapters I designed to go from the OEM A/C box output inside the dash to the dash vent registers via 3" flexible hose. The system output adapter has the 3" tube offset to the right side and as far forward away from the system as possible for clearance. The dash register adapter slides onto the OEM register housing (located by the 0.5" tangs on each side) and has the 3" tube offset to the left to try to minimize the extent of the bend from the system output. Let me know what y'all think.
 

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My A/C isn't working or more precisely had been removed by the PO. But I gathered all the parts and I'm planning on putting it back. So I am sure I will run into this issue eventually.

Nice work with the design of these adapters! Seems like a great solution!

I would cover your 3D prints with epoxy or a layer of XTC-3D, even if you print them with nylon. I've had 3D prints crack and eventually break due to heat and pressure. Unless you have access to a super expensive Carbon3D CLIP system, which is the only 3D printing method that doesn't print layers on top of layers and instead the result is a solid piece.
 

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Here's a pair of adapters I designed to go from the OEM A/C box output inside the dash to the dash vent registers via 3" flexible hose. The system output adapter has the 3" tube offset to the right side and as far forward away from the system as possible for clearance. The dash register adapter slides onto the OEM register housing (located by the 0.5" tangs on each side) and has the 3" tube offset to the left to try to minimize the extent of the bend from the system output. Let me know what y'all think.
Nice idea and design!! Wished I had more time to spend with Solidworks or Fusion 360. Been spending all my time developing and running new parts getting ready for the racing off season. Just got a Haas Slant bed lathe in that I will have to learn.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've got access to a Fusion3 3D printer. Seems to be making components out of nylon strong enough for aircraft use, so going to use whatever profile they've got set for those parts.
 

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I've got access to a Fusion3 3D printer. Seems to be making components out of nylon strong enough for aircraft use, so going to use whatever profile they've got set for those parts.
Still hoping you make make a few sets to sell! Looks awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Jammed the Fusion3 up pretty good, as a newb it may be that I didn't use enough glue stick on the platform prior to printing. It actually destroyed the print head, but Fusion3 is really good, they're sending a replacement out for free. I had to update the system output adapter design because after some quick measurements I realized my original design will not fit in that tight space in the dash!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I ended up adapting directly from the system output to the register outputs on the dash. You can fit the whole thing in there by taking the A/C controls out first. It fits!
 

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We used 2” self Vulcanizing Tape.

No adhesive to worry about being useless over time and it’s still flexible.
 

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