Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I'm new to this forum. I recently purchased a 1995 Ford Bronco EB edition. Its not my daily driver because I live in Texas and temps are at the triple digits right now. Not to mention my window motors are shot. I took it to a friend to have the A/C looked into because it didn't work. We noticed the orifice tube had metal shavings on it. Fast forward...

The Compressor, evaporator, dryer/accumulator, condenser, high pressure switch, and red orifice tube were replaced, and the lines were all flushed. The system was vacuumed and oiled with 11 oz of PAG 46, and 33 oz of refrigerate was added. The low pressure read at 60 psi, and high read at 325-350 psi. It was about 90 degrees outside.

We put a thermometer on the vent and it never got colder than 60-65 degrees on max a/c. One thing I noticed is at acceleration the a/c stopped blowing strong, and started up again after letting off of the gas pedal, it did this twice. I attempted to recreate the issue with my friend driving but it didn't happen. I never took it faster than 50 mph during these tests. It stayed at his house because I know it can't be the coldest it should be. Anybody have this issue, some direction?
 

·
Premium Member
If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
You have a vacuum leak. The air ducting doors are controlled by a vacuum motor. If you have a leak, or even with a good vacuum system you can even pull the vacuum reservoir down to a point at which the ducting doors close. The default setting for the ducting doors is to have it blow out through the defroster vent. The reason for this is if your vacuum system goes bad, it is better to have the air coming out of the defrost so you can at least see to drive. This is most common when your vacuum system has a leak, but you can make it happen if you are on the throttle hard for a big pull up a hill or something like that, even on a good vacuum system.

I suggest you get up under your hood and verify your fresh air door is operating properly. You can check the fresh air intake by observing the actuator under the hood. It is on the left side under the hood, all the way up against the firewall. It is in the very back corner. You should see a vacuum line going to it. It has a little plastic arm going to a lever that controls the fresh air door. When you turn the A/C to max, the door should close. On regular A/C, the door is open. The actuator is either open or closed. You cant mistake if it is working or not. The arm will travel as far as it can on either direction. On regular A/C the air coming through your A/C system is entering in through the slots between your hood and the windshield. It pulls in "fresh" air and cools it down. On Max A/C the air being circulated through the A/C system is coming from the cab of the truck. The cab air is usually cooler than outside air and is therefore easier to get colder, quicker.

If your fresh air door is not operating properly, you may be pulling in outside air even if your A/C is set to max. If you are testing the system while sitting in the yard or garage and the air is coming in through the fresh air intake, it can easily be pulling in very hot air. I have done tests on my truck and the air coming from the engine compartment was getting sucked into my fresh air intake and was reading over 140 degrees. Our A/C system can cool air that hot very well at all.

I suggest you first verify that your fresh air intake door is operating properly and then do your temperature reading tests while driving down the road. If you are driving, you are forcing new air into the engine compartment and not letting the temps build up under the hood. It DOES make a huge difference.

Another thing is this, the stock orifice tube has to operate at all engine speeds and it not very efficient at lower (idle) rpms. The higher the engine is turning means the compressor is turning faster too. This makes the refrigerate atomize much better because it is coming through at a higher pressure. You can buy a variable orifice tube and try it. It is supposed to operate better at all engine rpms. I tried one and it was causing too much back pressure on the high side and it caused the system to trip and shut down every 20 seconds or so. I had to put a stock orifice tube back in.

Drive your truck around like you would normally and see if the temp drops while driving. My system is running pretty good right now but it will still start to rise a bit when it is parked. You have to remember that the air conditioning components are under the hood and the exhaust manifolds can get over 700 degrees. If new air is not coming in to replace the heated up air in the engine compartment, all of those A/C components start to heat up. If the air coming out of the vents is lower than 60 degrees while driving, I will almost guarantee you your temps will start going back up while sitting still. This is all because the engine compartment is getting hotter.

You also need to verify the ducting is free from obstructions. It is very common for leaves and junk to collect in out air intake system. Most of the time they will collect on the evaporator, but you said you replaced that so that should not be an issue, but there could be other garbage in the system that is blocking the air coming from the fan.

It also helps if you have the heat shielding on the fan box under the hood.

Report back and let us know how things are going.
 
  • Like
Reactions: miesk5

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
25,299 Posts
Yo Nicky,
Welcome!

As klh95bronco advised!

Also see Insufficient Cooling:
"GO to Pinpoint Test C or Pinpoint Test G for specific condition. @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series by Ford in 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual

■□■

ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed @ Recalls Look-up by VIN (Vehicle Identification Number); or @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site; or ... have VIN ready. While there, see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.

1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure

1995 Bronco Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual - Google Drive
&
1995 Bronco Chassis, Service Manual - Google Drive
To switch between folder list & grid views, click the button to the right of the "DOWNLOAD ALL" button in the upper right corner of the window) by HawkDriver

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 non-padded posts required to participate, due to scammers who preyed on our members).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How to Use Search and more tips!

See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)
... Includes such as, How do I fix my back window?

Take time to participate in our current Full-Size of the Quarter Contest & Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get upgrade ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes. They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!
Al
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,661 Posts
Very likely the white vacuum line coming from the harness that has the blower motor connector. Peel back the harness till you find good vacuum line. Cut a small piece, take it to the parts store. Find a rubber vacuum line that will snugly fit over the white line. Get 5 feet of that size. Run it from the cut white line in the harness up to the vacuum motor by the windshield on the passenger side. The original line has a rubber adapter, you wont need it. Connect the other end of the new vacuum line directly to the metal nipple on the vacuum motor.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1986 Eddie Bauer Bronco 5.0L AOD Full length headers, no cats annoying Flowmasters
Joined
·
85 Posts
I am in a different camp than this vacuum line, & blend door not opening. Seeing a low pressure reading of 60 psi is way too high, which tells me something is blocked. Low pressure should be 30-40psi. What are your high pressure readings?? Should be around 150-175. Then, how quickly do the low and high pressures equalize? The two should meet in the middle around 85-105psi with the vehicle off.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,661 Posts
You may be right Rob. The pressures seem off. At 90f they should be more like 45-55 on the low side and 250-270 on the high side.

The white vacuum line repair still needs to be done though. Every bronco needs that.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
If there was a blockage the low side would be lower than 60 psi. I am betting it is overfilled.

He did say everything was new except the hoses and he flushed those.
 

·
Registered
1986 Eddie Bauer Bronco 5.0L AOD Full length headers, no cats annoying Flowmasters
Joined
·
85 Posts
High pressure on the low side means something is blocked, overcharged, or too much oil added. New compressors come pre oiled, if they added oil again, which is a common mistake, that could be a possible problem & that is my guess as well. I'm sure no mechanic would admit to that though....

Bottom line is, something is not right, and it takes some investigation, and often multiple tries to get it right, so best of luck to you in finding it & getting you a/c pumping nice and cold. This is why a/c issues are a p.i.t.a., but persistence pays off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
So I have a similar issue and my guy figured it out pretty quick. Clutch fan was weak. Diagnosed it by putting a shop fan in front of the radiator. I've had no engine cooling issues of any sort either even in the 108f day last week.

Fan wasn't completely toast, just not efficient at idle. Not bad for 285k miles
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top