I recently purchased an 89 FSB 5.0 and when i turn on the A/C, the compressor kicks on and off every 3-5 sec until i turn it off. Any ideas?
You are low on freon. There is no high side cutoff, only a low side cutoff located on the filter/drier assembly. Get a can and don't fill it past 50-55 psi with the engine running, A/C on max with dial turned all the way to cold. For like $20 or so you should be able to get a can with a pressure gague on it. While you're filling it, you should notice the time between it kicking on and off increases. Good luck!I recently purchased an 89 FSB 5.0 and when i turn on the A/C, the compressor kicks on and off every 3-5 sec until i turn it off. Any ideas?
Your initial problem was that you were low on freon. Your problem now is that your schrader valve got stuck open or is leaking, which is why it spewed out when you took off the service hose. Now that you have no charge in the system (presumably) you can replace your orifice tube. The tool to crack the fitting is like $6 at autozone, the orifice tube is like $2. If you live in a hot climate, get a blue one. Needlenose pliers will pull the old one out, pop the new one in and you're in business. Follow the skinny line on the passenger side of the engine that goes in to your firewall. The orifice tube is located in the hard line going in to the firewall.So i went out to run the A/C for the first time since it was spewing refrigerant and the compressor didnt even kick on (i ran it for 5min). Im guessing the system is empty now. Yes, the system has already been converted and has the adapters. I guess i will look into replacing some of the cheaper components and then vaccuming the system. Thanks for the suggestions!
The switch will only cut out if it's low on pressure, it doesn't matter how high it gets, it will stay on.Going on the assumption the truck was previously converted the low side pressure should never be above ~45 PSI with the compressor running. The low pressure/clutch cycling switch is designed to work in the ~23-45 PSI range. Above or below it shuts off power to the clutch. Without a manifold gauge set to look at both the high and low side pressures it is difficult to diagnose if there is a problem.
No, there is no way to flush the orifice without first removing the refrigerant and disconnecting the line. Even if there was, the junk that's blocking the orifice would still be in the system and would just block up something else. You need to remove the refrigerant, disconnect the line at the evaporator, remove the orifice tube (they're only like $3, so you might as well get a new one), install the new orifice tube, reconenct the line, evacuate the system and recharge.Is there anyway to flush and unclog the orifice while keeping everything intact?
My compressor is cycling on and off. Two seconds on then two seconds off. It is blowing hot air and the pressure on the high side is way high. I'm assuming there is blockage.
The truck has also been sitting for about a year and a half.