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1988 FSB, 351W, Towing Package
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97 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can somebody help me find this? I’ve got 5 bucks off at oreillys and figured I’d throw it in, but I can’t find the post. It’s some valve that will keep cool air from running through the heater core that ford started putting in the expeditions. any ideas?


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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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327 Posts
That's unecessary. We already have a damper. Is your compressor engaging? My bronco has colder AC than my 2015 Camaro.
 

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1988 FSB, 351W, Towing Package
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97 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
That's unecessary. We already have a damper. Is your compressor engaging? My bronco has colder AC than my 2015 Camaro.
Damn I wish I could say the same! My 2008 Tahoe is almost more comfortable to the point I’d rather drive it than the bronco, but then again I’ll sweat buckets if I need to to drive it!

I believe it’s engaging, if I’ve got it parked in the garage and take it out the air will stay cool but if I start the truck with it already being hot there’s no chance of the air cooling.

I could check the refrigerant but think I may have R12 and don’t want to do a conversion.

What steps should I take here?


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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
Joined
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327 Posts
Mine blows cold air within 1 minute at most. Doesn't cool off the interior that fast, but the AC is in full effect very quickly.

Check the compressor, it should NOT be cycling on and off.
Is your filter drier collecting condensation? Thats an indication that the system is atleast working to some extent.

R134A conversions are pretty easy, Just fix the leak first, then buy the correct limit switches, orifice, oil, and charge it!

If your system is undercharged, it has a leak, most do. It can be cheaper to convert to R134A than it is to buy r12. You can get a refrigerant leak detector for pretty cheap, but the big issue is going to be pulling a vacuum on the system, then charging with nitrogen to check for leaks after replacing seals/whatever else.
 

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The heater core won't make much difference. I think I remember somebody saying it only made it about 1-2 degrees cooler (might be remembering wrong).

Edited as I missed the part about R12

The conversion is simple, really just replacing the hoses, O-rings, orifice tube, replacing compressor oil, and low pressure switch replacement/adjustment (unplug, turn flat head screw between pins counterclockwise 1/8 turn at a time and test), as long as everything else works.

Only trouble for you is that regardless you most likely have a leak anyways if you have old hoses and if you want to avoid a conversion, getting R12 isn't the most economical for your wallet (my 92 actually would need about 1 can a year before swapping). Go ahead and go for the conversion and get the headache done with. I have only had an issue with my dad's 93 wanting to be stubborn with one issue or another (minor leak, blockage, leak from having to creatively remove orifice tube necessitating replacing evap coil, O-Ring leaking after everything else has been done), and my 92 went without any trouble with keeping only the old coils and flushing them, hell I haven't even adjusted the low pressure switch and it would keep it decently cold.
 
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