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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i thought i would do this saturday morning. it took me the entire weekend, instead. more on that to come.

that said, i replaced my ac compressor and orifice tube over the weekend. it had been leaking from the compressor itself. i know this because of the buildup of sludge, oil, and UV dye emanating from it.

since my AC was working and i like to do what i can to help the environment, i didn't want to release the freon into the atmosphere. i talked to one shop while they passed my bronco for inspection with no 3rd brake light attached due to my soft top. they said it would be $130. i reiterated i only wanted them to recover the freon. they didn't budge. i called another shop, they said 1 hour of labor at $79/hr. then i went to my local alignment shop at 2pm friday afternoon. he said $10. hooked up a machine and i sat in the bronco (socially distancing, of course) and 30 minutes later, he was done.

i loaded up on parts and got busy


the bottom side of the compressor


and this isn't even all the UV murder scene...


i sprayed down everything with brake cleaner and that seemed to do the job pretty nicely.

removing / replacing the compressor is easy.
disconnect serpentine belt
10mm socket for the ac compressor bolt and the bolt holding the hose to the compressor.


measuring out the oil - measurements at the bottom.


accessing the orifice tube wasn't too bad. cracked open the line from the evaporator with a 1/2" disconnect tool.


had to modify a pick to retrieve it, though.


this thing was, uh, pretty dirty.



then to the accumulator, i went through 5 different parts and none worked. so i went with the factory accumulator that was on there before. details of fail and woe here:

i bought this fancy little comb to straighten out some of the fins on my condenser. but, unfortunately, the fins were too thick to fit.


so i was reduced to using a tiny flat head screwdriver and a gift card from lowes.
before


and after


honestly, it wasn't a very efficient use of my time except for the fact i did it while pulling vacuum on multiple accumulators. so maybe it was efficient use of my time? this was the result of 2-3 hours of work. either way, my back hurts like hell from crouching over to work on it.

once vacuum finally held, i recharged it and was done.



for my reference:
i needed 38oz of r134a
8 oz of pag 46 oil
the compressor came with 3 oz
so i added 5 oz. but i actually only added 4 b/c i only replaced the compressor. i estimated 1 oz would be left within the system.

i added 3 oz to the evaporator and 1 oz to the compressor.

compressor four seasons 58141
orifice tube napa 207317
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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I didn't read where you flushed the condenser or the evaporator. As dirty as your orifice tube was I am certain there is at least that much in your condenser and evaporator.

I would have put a new condenser in instead of fixing the fins....those things trap a ton of crap in them. Matter of fact they are the first stop after the compressor. You may have trash waiting to let loose and travel to your new compressor....
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I didn't read where you flushed the condenser or the evaporator. As dirty as your orifice tube was I am certain there is at least that much in your condenser and evaporator.

I would have put a new condenser in instead of fixing the fins....those things trap a ton of crap in them. Matter of fact they are the first stop after the compressor. You may have trash waiting to let loose and travel to your new compressor....

I didn't flush it. And it might all fail. I spent less than $100 on the total job in the end. I looked at condensers but I couldn't find one that didn't have overwhelming reviews of poor fitment. So, I decided to just fix the broken part and put it back together.
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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I wouldn't worry about the evaporator, but you should never reuse a filter drier. The one I got frock rockauto had pictures and bolted in perfectly for my 1995.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I wouldn't worry about the evaporator, but you should never reuse a filter drier. The one I got frock rockauto had pictures and bolted in perfectly for my 1995.

Yea, and if any of the first five that fit just fine would have held a vacuum, I would have used them. : Shrug
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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Yea, and if any of the first five that fit just fine would have held a vacuum, I would have used them. : Shrug


Mine also resisted sealing. After cleaning the joints, replacing the new orings again, and using sealant, it worked great. These look identical, pretty sure I used the four seasons.

When in doubt, goop it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It didn't leak from a threaded connection. The Schrader valve where you connect the hose from the manifold gauge is what leaked.
 

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Good call on the Pag 46 oil WITH dye. Both are needed might as well buy them together. (advance auto with coupon codes) It's all cheaper and cleaner and better for leak detection. Good call removing the orifice tube with a pick set. I ruined my evaporator tube trying to get one with different needle nose pliers. Also it's impossible to rebuild a fs10 by hand; the front shaft seal always gets damaged upon installation. Tried and failed at that. That OEM compressor is the leakiest one I ever seen I think.

Also you may have already changed them but the r134a system o rings need changed when doing major work as they are most likely bad. Go with a o-ring kit sold off rockauto. The cheap green oring kits from harbor freight and the like are junk. Just buy a new service packet per vehicle from the parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
the accumulators all came with new o-rings. i used those. i actually changed them a couple times. once at first and then after the first few accumulators just b/c i had been connecting/disconnecting so many times.
 
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