Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. The 351 I built has been pinging under load and I'm getting code 211. I just ordered another fresh set of wires and another cap and rotor (inside of the cap showed signs of arcing) anyway the dizzy is the used one that came out of the parts truck I pulled the motor I built from it looked ok inside as in bushings seemed good and no dust type stuff coming from the pip sensor so I just cleaned it up and reused it. My tfi module is the same one that's been on my truck that ran fine right up until I pulled the stock 302 out. So I'm just looking for some more opinions on this. Think the cap and wires will fix it sense it showed signes of arcing or should I just order a reman distributor while I'm at it? Or can anybody think of something else that would cause code 211 and ping?

Thanks in advance. Most threads I searched for 211 just had people randomly throwing distributors at it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,031 Posts
yo Rock,
For now..will bbl;
DTC 211, 212 & 213; ping, rough idle, missing at speed; "...Misfiring, Rough Idle, Surge, & Ping-Knock Symptoms, due to a Magnetized Shutter Wheel, (Bronco & all Fords w/EEC IV & TFI); "...Inside the TFI distributor is a Hall-Effect sensor that provides an RPM and POSITION signal to the Ignition module and ECM for fuel and ignition control. Mounted to the distributor shaft is a "shutter-wheel" that passes through the Hall-Effect sensor. The slots or windows cut in the shutter-wheel are what makes the Hall-Effect sensor switch on/off to create the signal it sends out. The shutter-wheel is supposed to be a piece of "dead" steel but can become magnetized. A magnetized wheel can cause very erratic operation of the Hall-Effect and resulting erratic output signal. The Test: There are a couple of ways to check for this condition. One is to simply pull off the distributor cap and see if something steel will "stick" to the shutter-wheel. Make sure that whatever you are using to check the wheel with isn't magnetized itself. A more accurate method would be to watch the wave-form on the "SPOUT" wire with a Vantage or Lab-Scope. The SPOUT is the wire with the connector in it that you unplug to set ignition timing. Monitor the wave-pattern on the SPOUT with the timing-connector in. If there is anything erratic about the wave-form, unplug the timing connector and re-check the wave-form. If the pattern "cleans up" all of a sudden, chances are good that you have a magnetized shutter-wheel. The Fix: Most shutter-wheels can be removed from the distributor shaft with a couple of screws. Everybody seems to have their own way of de-magnetizing the wheels but good success has been had with bulk audio-tape erasers or by placing the wheel in an engine parts cleaning oven and baking it. That last one sounds weird but it works..."
Source: by snapon.com via archive.org and miesk5 at FSB


Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT)); "..The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire..."
Wiring Diagram in a 95
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/851803
__________________
 

·
Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
15,182 Posts
take a look at this thread...I had a similar problem a while back..It may be associated with the tweecer. not sure if the new tweecer software eliminates the need for that check sum update, but you may also want to try reloading your tune and see if that clears things up.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok I did check the wheel in the distributor it's not magnetized. I have reloaded my tune with the tweecer no change. Was there some other tweecer update I needed to try? Which thread did you want me to check out? In the mean time I grabbed a new distributor and a new tfi module on my way to work just so I would have some parts to try sense everything is closed when I get off. Lol.


Ok along with the other symptoms now when you let off the gas it's is review back up to 1200-1500 for a few seconds then dropping down again. Same code
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'll read it in a minute. I have tried reloading for the ping issue but I haven't reloaded it sense I start getting the weird idle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So set the checksum to zero? I beleive mg has 5xxx in there with the tune he had sent me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok threw a tfi module in on my lunch brake. That didn't help. Worth a shot sense it was original. I sent Mike glover at tweecer an email about the checksum in the tune And I have a new distributor sitting here I can try after work. Not sure what else it could be. Either tune or distributor. Everything else is new except wires which are ford racing. Somehow I doubt it's that simple but I have a set of new ford racing wires in the mail.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Ok Mike didn't seem to think it would cause my issue but he did say to zero out the checksum so I'll try that to after work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Welp. New tfi new distributor and reloaded my tune with checksum base at 0 and it still runs like shit. Would an msd box gettin ready to go out do this? Not real sure what else to try
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top