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Discussion Starter #1
Call me crazy, but I happen to like to ABS, :whiteflag so I'd like to get mine working again. So far, I've done the following:

1. Pulled the code (24).
2. Checked fuses & relays. (note to self: that's why my trailer lights don't work, I'm missing the 3 relays!)
3. Disconnected the ECU, HCU, and pump motor connectors and cleaned them out (they weren't bad, but I used a Q-tip to get the little bit of dust out of there).

I'm kind of stuck now when it comes to measuring the circuits.

Chilton's says to "measure the resistance between pins 17 & 34."
However, I don't have a pin 34, because my '95 ABS ECU looks like this.

So if I skip D1 and move to D2, it says to "measure resistance between Pins 1 & 5 on the valve block". So, I assume that means measure the resistance on the component side (the side connected to the HCU). However, the only diagram I can find that shows the pin numbers is this one. Note the pin number guide in the text below. According to this, pin 1 is 532 (O/Y) and pin 5 is 498 (PK). Based on the description of code 24 (Isolation Valve right front shorted or open), shouldn't I be testing circuit 497 (W)? Is it possible that Steve83 has the pin numbers wrong? (blasphemy, I know ;) )

Looking at the Haynes manual, it recommends measuring the resistance on the component side of the "harness connector at the RABS valve" from pins 1 to 5, 4 to 5, and 5 to ground. (I assume that means the HCU side of the connector.) But again, that means measuring 532 (O/Y) to 498 (PK), 532 (O/Y) to 498 (PK), and 498 (PK) to ground respectively, if you go by the pin numbers from the above Steve83 link.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
:banghead

As soon as I hit 'Submit Reply', I get a thought. Looking at the ABS electrical schematic, 495 (T) is noted as being pin 7 at the HCU, not pin 6 as noted here (see text below the picture) So, if you identify 495 (T) as pin 7, that would mean pin 5 = 497 (W), and all is right with the world again.

If someone who knows something about this stuff (as opposed to me bumbling my way around) could confirm my analysis (or tell me I'm an idiot and why), I'd appreciate it. (I'm also going to shoot Steve83 a PM, but who knows how many PMs he gets on a daily basis and if he has time to respond)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
(I'm also going to shoot Steve83 a PM, but who knows how many PMs he gets on a daily basis and if he has time to respond)
He's got PMs turned off. Makes sense, he'd probably get flooded otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Anyone who cares, so probably... nobody. :rofl:
Well, you have a 95 so your OBD-1 and should be getting 2 digit codes. But my Chilton book list code 24 as "ACT sensor out of self test range". Isn't that part of the MAF in the air box? So, why are you messing with the ABS?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, you have a 95 so your OBD-1 and should be getting 2 digit codes. But my Chilton book list code 24 as "ACT sensor out of self test range". Isn't that part of the MAF in the air box? So, why are you messing with the ABS?
I'm not pulling engine ECU codes. I'm pulling ABS codes. (I.e. - my ABS light is on, my check engine light is not.) There are 2 test connectors in my engine bay, an OBD-I (black) and an ABS (red).
 

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yo,

Ck that 4WABS Module Connector pin-out diagram again; here is one diagram by Ford
4WABS Connectors Diagrams for 93-96
Source: by Ford via Chilton
http://content.chiltonsonline.com/content/images/8492/images/84929147.pdf
see #34 below Bolt in middle, left
& via Steve83;

24 Front Right Inlet Solenoid Valve


Probable Cause

1.Open or short circuit condition
2.Fuse(s)
3.Valve block
4.Faulty Anti-Lock Brake Control Module
5.Faulty Anti-Lock Hydraulic Control Unit
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, got it. I was "reading" the connector rotated 180 degrees. Pins 2-13 are the unused ones. The missing pin 34 is now found!

Any thoughts on the HCU pin numbers?

...and thanks.
 

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Ok, got it. I was "reading" the connector rotated 180 degrees. Pins 2-13 are the unused ones. The missing pin 34 is now found!

Any thoughts on the HCU pin numbers?

...and thanks.
yo JAY,
yw

ok, on the HCU see Steve83's diagram - look @ bottom right; ANTI-LOCK HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT; it shows Pin Numbers 1 & 5 and others there.


and this is Steve's Valve Hyd Flow Diagram, FYI only; no Pin Numbers
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yo JAY,
yw

ok, on the HCU see Steve83's diagram - look @ bottom right; ANTI-LOCK HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT; it shows Pin Numbers 1 & 5 and others there.


and this is Steve's Valve Hyd Flow Diagram, FYI only; no Pin Numbers
Let me see if I can explain what I'm looking at. I'm trying to figure out which pins are which on the connectors (since that's where I'll be measuring voltage & resistance). You helped me figure out the ECU connector, now I'm trying to figure out the HCU connector (the 8-pin connector). If you look at Steve83's connector diagram, here: http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/280768_1
Then look at the bottom of the page (in the text portion), he describes the pin numbers as this, "In the HCU component connector, pin #1 is top L (532 Or/Y); pin #4 is top R (532 Or/Y); pin #6 is bottom L-center (495 T)."

Which looks something like this:


But that makes pin #6 correspond to circuit 495(T) not 496(O) (like it shows in the circuit schematic that you linked). He even explicitly says it's 495(T).

If you map the circuits according to the pin numbers given on the schematic, you get something that looks like this:


Basically, I'm not comfortable enough with my own knowledge/abilities to say I'm right without some independent confirmation.
 

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yo,
I see that.. my ISP is so slow it is diff to jump between windows.. I see the problem; but I don't know which is correct;
I am trying to find more diagrams by Ford but ISP is slow..
Maybe Steve made an error?

So far; I am trying to confirm all color and CKT Codes from all diagrams... then we can match em up to what your 95 actually has
has; then you can check Resistance to Confirm


in http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/280767_1
Pin 1 is B+ O/Y CKT 532
Pin 2 is T/R CKT 510
Pin 5 is W CKT 497
Pin 6 is O CKT 496
Pin 7 is T 495

in http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/280768_1
O/Y CKT 532
T/R CKT 510
W CKT 497
O CKT 496
T 495
 

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OK, I'll see what I can do to add to the confusion:

Below is one of the ABS pages from the '96 Bronco EVTM. Notice the pin numbers on the 4WABS Hydraulic Unit:


http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895365_1

Now notice the pin numbers on the same 4WABS Hydraulic Unit from the '94 EVTM.


http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895366_1

My best guess is that it took a couple of years before Ford got around to correcting the EVTM. I believe that they got it right in the '96 manual. (finally)

The ABS Hydraulic Unit connector is also different in the '96 EVTM


http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895368_1

The same connector in the '94 EVTM:


http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895367_1

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I finally gave up on the pin numbers and just based my measurements off of wire color since the wire colors never change no matter what diagram you look at. Thanks for all the help guys, I'm pretty sure my HCU needs to be replaced. Anybody know of any place that still has some Raybestos units?

EDIT: Nevermind, it popped up again on RockAuto. One day it's there, the next it's not, then poof there it is again. Of course, I realize I'm complaining that their inventory system actually works... hahaha.

EDIT #2: Now it's gone again! WTF?!?
 

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yo,
Thnx MIKEY!
--
JAY
4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) Sources "...Raybestos (who has remanufactured the units in the past and stopped) is going to run a limited production of the HCU; the run is scheduled for the first week of August 2011..."
Source: by 95XLT-Sport at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU); CARDONE® Application Search Part Number12-2025 ; Go through the Search Drill
Source: by CARDONE® http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=12-2025&make=Ford Trucks&model=Bronco&year=1995
of course my ISP froze on the site

4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) Sources "...Used price locally is $150.00; 60 day guarantee; Babaganoosh wrote; "...BBA did the rebuilds on ABS Modules for my old VW/Audi Shop. They were super inexpensive, fast, friendly, and only had one issue with them ever and it was 50% my fault anyways (keep in mind it's VW stuff anyways...". by consensus the best re man 4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)s are from bba-reman.com; BBA quotes $200 plus shipping for repair of/my HCU; "It usually takes about 3 days from receipt to repair..." miesk5 UPDATE, check w/BBA first; they may have stopped re-man ops.
Source: by Babaganoosh & miesk5 at FSB
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yo,
Thnx MIKEY!
--
JAY
4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) Sources "...Raybestos (who has remanufactured the units in the past and stopped) is going to run a limited production of the HCU; the run is scheduled for the first week of August 2011..."
Source: by 95XLT-Sport at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU); CARDONE® Application Search Part Number12-2025 ; Go through the Search Drill
Source: by CARDONE® http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=12-2025&make=Ford Trucks&model=Bronco&year=1995
of course my ISP froze on the site

4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) Sources "...Used price locally is $150.00; 60 day guarantee; Babaganoosh wrote; "...BBA did the rebuilds on ABS Modules for my old VW/Audi Shop. They were super inexpensive, fast, friendly, and only had one issue with them ever and it was 50% my fault anyways (keep in mind it's VW stuff anyways...". by consensus the best re man 4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)s are from bba-reman.com; BBA quotes $200 plus shipping for repair of/my HCU; "It usually takes about 3 days from receipt to repair..." miesk5 UPDATE, check w/BBA first; they may have stopped re-man ops.
Source: by Babaganoosh & miesk5 at FSB
I'm wondering if the Aug run has already sold out. (Rock Auto doesn't have any more) However, I was able to place an order for one with Summit Racing to be shipped mid-Dec.

That Cardone one is RABS-only, plenty of those around. :(

BBA-reman would be a good option except the Bronco would be inop for that time. :(

Thanks for the help though, fingers crossed for Summit! I need to get it inspected before the new HCU will be here, what's the easiest way to get the ABS light off? Remove the light? Any how-to's out there for it? (I'm SEARCHing, but my SEARCH-fu is weak right now)
 

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That Cardone one is RABS-only, plenty of those around. :(

Thanks for the help though, fingers crossed for Summit! I need to get it inspected before the new HCU will be here, what's the easiest way to get the ABS light off? Remove the light? Any how-to's out there for it? (I'm SEARCHing, but my SEARCH-fu is weak right now)
----

yo JAY,

ok on that Cardone 12-2025; site froze on me and I didn't see the description; but they list same pn for my 96; so that is a major flaw @ Cardone.

You can remove the 4WABS bulb -
see Cluster Removal in a 95; part of Chris's Halo Reverse Glow Installation
Source: by dadtodc (Chris B) at https://picasaweb.google.com/117624...fWByNj23wE&gsessionid=G5Bxwkltf5ll9v3CqRFsNw#
Instead of pulling cluster out completely, you may be able to tilt it and pull the bulb. I forget how I did it when my Control Module burnt out its microprocessors.

First, start Bronco & Shift to L or 1; turn key off;
I always unhook the cable, then spin the wheel. You can't really get to the indicator end to unhook it - I do it at the shifter (wheel) end. There's nothing inherently wrong with removing the wheel assy. But when you're trying to pull the cluster, it's easier to feed the bare cable end back around the column & thru the wiring harness. If the cable sheath is white, it's probably about to break no matter how careful you are. If it's black with mesh reinforcement, you almost can't break it; "...the adjusting wheel is for 92-up columns..."
Source: by Steve83
Shift Indicator Replacement info & pics in a 94
"Got a new one from Ford, about 20 bucks, and the quality of this one is much better, the cable is protected much better, and the spring of course, has spring to it"
Source: by Chris A (blueoval78) @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2540/16644
 

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Discussion Starter #18
----

yo JAY,

ok on that Cardone 12-2025; site froze on me and I didn't see the description; but they list same pn for my 96; so that is a major flaw @ Cardone.

You can remove the 4WABS bulb -
see Cluster Removal in a 95; part of Chris's Halo Reverse Glow Installation
Source: by dadtodc (Chris B) at https://picasaweb.google.com/117624...fWByNj23wE&gsessionid=G5Bxwkltf5ll9v3CqRFsNw#
Instead of pulling cluster out completely, you may be able to tilt it and pull the bulb. I forget how I did it when my Control Module burnt out its microprocessors.

First, start Bronco & Shift to L or 1; turn key off;
I always unhook the cable, then spin the wheel. You can't really get to the indicator end to unhook it - I do it at the shifter (wheel) end. There's nothing inherently wrong with removing the wheel assy. But when you're trying to pull the cluster, it's easier to feed the bare cable end back around the column & thru the wiring harness. If the cable sheath is white, it's probably about to break no matter how careful you are. If it's black with mesh reinforcement, you almost can't break it; "...the adjusting wheel is for 92-up columns..."
Source: by Steve83
Shift Indicator Replacement info & pics in a 94
"Got a new one from Ford, about 20 bucks, and the quality of this one is much better, the cable is protected much better, and the spring of course, has spring to it"
Source: by Chris A (blueoval78) @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2540/16644
Wow, Chris' cluster looks amazing! Thanks for the links, now that I think about it, my shift indicator is all screwed up, so I can do both at the same time.
 

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yo JAY,
I forgot to add (memory just returned!, way befor Comcast sped up a bit); I used my better-half's crocheting tool to slip that ind cable off and left that thumbnail adjuster in-place


1996 Bronco Workshop Manual
ADJUSTMENTS
Shift Indicator Cable
Remove the four screws from the lower steering column shroud. Remove the lower steering column shroud.
Rotate gearshift lever (7210) clockwise until it bottoms out in first gear.
Rotate gearshift lever counterclockwise three detents (overdrive position).
Hang a three-pound weight on the gearshift lever.
Center pointer in the middle of D if equipped with C6 transmission, or (D) if equipped with E4OD transmission, by rotating the thumbwheel located on right-hand side of steering column actuator housing.
E4OD Transmission Selector
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got it done. ABS light is no more.

I also found the problem with the shift indicator; the bracket that holds the adjusting wheel was broken. I had to buy a whole new shift indicator just for the bracket (jy's around here are woefully lacking in Broncos & F-150s), but the new one has the black sheath, so I just keep telling myself it's an upgrade! :histerica My old one (with the white sheath) is still good, so if anyone wants it, let me know.

Still working on getting a new/reman HCU. I'll post the results in the future.
 
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