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'96 Bronco 5.8L. 2.5" Tuff Country lift w/ extended radius arms, 33" Duratracs. Saginaw swap.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. Thanks for taking the time to listen to my Bronco issues when I'm sure you already have enough of your own...

A little while ago my ABS light came on in my '96 Bronco 5.8L. Pulled code 63 (pump motor triggered but does not run).

Some nice techs at Ford helped me out by highlighting some pages in the Ford repair manual for diagnosis of this code. I suck at electrical but dove into the diagnosis procedure in the manual.

So... Here is what I got. The ABS hydraulic control unit (HCU) is not getting enough power/ voltage from the HCU connector/harness (4.8V when it should be 8V).

There is continuity from the HCU harness to the ground, the HCU harness to the ABS relay, the ABS relay to the Main relay, and from the ABS relay to the battery.

I've cleaned up all the connections I could and used some dielectric grease. Didn't find corrosion anywhere. I swapped out all the relays to make sure they were good.

The rest of the diagnosis in the manual calls for a "rotunda breakout box" which I am not about to try and acquire or figure out how to use.

Upon a road test, ABS does not appear to function. I read on one forum that the brake pedal is supposed to "pulse" 2-3 times upon engine start to let you know the ABS is working. My pedal only pulses once.

What do I do next? In all honesty, I'd love a good mechanic who knows OBS Fords to do all the work for me. In fact- I'd pay big bucks to the right person. The problem is I don't think I can find a shop that I would really trust around here (NW Washington).

My other main issue I've been working to solve on this truck is a speed-sensitive vibration at 65mph. That is a whole story in itself. Don't even ask me about it :cry: .
 

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Yo T,
I'll post this in event other members can assist.
In lieu of the obsolete Ford Rotunda pin-out box (avail. on e bay, etc. but often it does Not include the overlays or cables), you can go to the connector (cited in test) pins instead
and cont'd @
http://repairguide.autozone.com/zne...6b43f/80/20/db/07/medium/0996b43f8020db07.gif

Will try to BB Later. My internet has an issue

  • Pump Motor Triggered but Did Not Run (Code 63)
  • Damaged pump motor.
  • Terminal backout in anti-lock brake electronic control module harness connector Pins 17, 29, 37 and 38.
  • Open or shorted pump motor relay coil.
  • Open contacts in pump motor relay.
  • Terminal backout in pump motor 4-way, Pins 1, 2, 3 or 4.
Code 63 is generated by the anti-lock brake electronic control module when the pump motor is triggered but does not run.

Possible Contributing Component/Vehicle Wiring Concerns



  • Damaged pump motor.
  • Terminal backout in harness connector Pins 17, 29, 37 and 38 of the anti-lock brake electronic control module
  • Open or shorted pump motor relay coil
  • Open contacts in pump motor relay
  • Terminal backout in pump motor 4-way connector, Pins 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • Open Circuit 539 (PK/LB)
S1 VISUAL INSPECTION AND EQUIPMENT HOOKUP
  • Make sure the battery is OK. Refer to Battery and Charging System, Service.
  • Inspect anti-lock brake electronic control module pins, 30 amp pump motor feed fuse, battery and ground connections, relay connections and pump motor connections.
  • Disconnect anti-lock brake electronic control module, install Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 and Rotunda Breakout Box Adapter with Overlay 007-00103 or equivalent. Verify ground.
  • Jumper Pins 1 and 19 together.
  • Key on (energize main relay).
  • Jumper Pins 1 and 29 together (energize pump motor relay).
Is pump motor running?


YesNo
GO to S9.GO to S2.
S2 VOLTAGE CHECK 1 AND 4
  • Disconnect pump motor connector.
  • Using battery positive lead, connect B+ to Pin 4 (533) and to Pin 1 (57) on anti-lock hydraulic control unit side of 4-way connector.
Does pump motor run?


YesNo
GO to S3.REPLACE anti-lock hydraulic control unit. GO to S13.
S3 VOLTAGE CHECK, PINS 1 AND 3
  • Disconnect 4-pin pump motor connector.
  • Measure voltage between Pins 1 and 3 on the harness side connector.
Are there at least 8 volts?


YesNo
REPLACE anti-lock hydraulic control unit. GO to S13.GO to S4.
S4 CHECK PIN 1 GROUND
  • Check for continuity between Pin 1 on the harness side connector and a known good chassis ground.
Is there continuity?


YesNo
GO to S5.REPAIR open in Circuit 57 (BK). GO to S13.
S5 CONTINUITY CHECK, CIRCUIT 533 (T/R)
  • Key off.
  • Remove pump motor relay.
  • Check continuity on Circuit 533 (T/R) to Pin 4.
Is there continuity?


YesNo
GO to S6.REPAIR open in Circuit 533 (T/R). GO to S13.
S6 CONTINUITY CHECK, PUMP MOTOR RELAY TO MAIN RELAY
  • Remove main relay.
  • Check continuity between pump motor relay Circuit 532 (O/Y) and main relay Circuit 532 (O/Y).
Is there continuity?


YesNo
GO to S7.REPAIR Circuit 532 (O/Y). GO to S13.
S7 CONTINUITY CHECK, PUMP MOTOR RELAY CIRCUIT 534 (Y/LG)
  • Disconnect battery negative cable.
  • Check continuity from pump motor relay Circuit 534 (Y/LG) to battery (+) connection point.
  • Reconnect battery negative cable when finished
Is there continuity?


YesNo
GO to S8.REPAIR open in Circuit 534 (Y/LG) or REPLACE 30A fuse. GO to S13.
S8 CONTINUITY CHECK, PUMP MOTOR RELAY CIRCUIT 539 (PK/LB)
  • Check continuity from pump motor relay Circuit 539 (PK/LB) to Pin 29 on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent.
Is there continuity?


YesNo
REPLACE pump motor relay. GO to S13.REPAIR open in Circuit 539 (PK/LB). GO to S13.
S9 CHECK PUMP MOTOR SPEED SENSOR RESISTANCE
  • Key off.
  • Connect Rotunda 88 Digital Multimeter 105-00053 or equivalent to Pins 37 and 38 on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent and measure resistance.
Is resistance between 5 and 40 ohms?


YesNo
GO to S10.REPLACE anti-lock hydraulic control unit. BLEED brake system. GO to S13.
S10 CHECK PUMP MOTOR SPEED SENSOR WIRING
  • Measure resistance between Pin 37 on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent Circuit 604 (O/R) and pump motor harness connector pin for Circuit 604 (O/R).
  • Measure resistance between Pin 38 on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent Circuit 462 (P) and pump motor harness connector pin for Circuit 462 (P).
Is either measured resistance greater than 5 ohms?


YesNo
REPAIR open in the affected circuit. GO to S13.GO to S11.
S11 CHECK PUMP MOTOR SPEED SENSOR OUTPUT
  • Key off.
  • Jumper Pins 1 and 19 together on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent.
  • Jumper Pins 1 and 29 together on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent (enable pump motor relay.)
  • Switch meter to frequency (Hz).
  • Key on (energize main relay).
  • Measure pump motor speed sensor output between Breakout Box Pins 37 and 38.
Is output at least 150 Hz?


YesNo
Key off. GO to S13.REPLACE anti-lock hydraulic control unit. BLEED brake system. GO to S13.
S12 CHECK IF ALL STEPS HAVE BEEN COMPLETED
  • CAUTION: If the following is not complete, chances are that replacement of this or any other system component without specific direction will not, in most circumstances, resolve the concern and will consequently result in customer dissatisfaction.
  • Make sure a valid diagnostic trouble code has been obtained, all prior diagnostic steps have been completed and the affected wiring integrity has been verified.
Have all prior diagnostic steps been completed as described above?


YesNo
REPLACE anti-lock brake electronic control module. GO to S13.GO to last diagnostic step completed and CONTINUE.
S13 VERIFY CONDITION RESOLVED
  • Clear all codes.
  • Key off.
  • Key on.
  • Retrieve code.
Was original code obtained?


YesNo
If Step S9 is complete, GO to Step S14. If Step S9 is not complete, GO to Pinpoint Test W.GO to pinpoint test for corresponding code. If Code 16 is obtained, GO to Pinpoint Test X.
S14 VERIFY INTEGRITY OF VEHICLE WIRING
  • Refer to Pinpoint Test W(Intermittent Diagnosis) and perform for all affected circuits as shown on the mini-schematic at the beginning of this pinpoint test.
Is resolution achieved?


YesNo
GO to S13 for system OK verification.GO to S12.
 

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Registered
'96 Bronco 5.8L. 2.5" Tuff Country lift w/ extended radius arms, 33" Duratracs. Saginaw swap.
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yo T,
I'll post this in event other members can assist.
In lieu of the obsolete Ford Rotunda pin-out box (avail. on e bay, etc. but often it does Not include the overlays or cables), you can go to the connector (cited in test) pins instead
and cont'd @
http://repairguide.autozone.com/zne...6b43f/80/20/db/07/medium/0996b43f8020db07.gif

Will try to BB Later. My internet has an issue

  • Pump Motor Triggered but Did Not Run (Code 63)
  • Damaged pump motor.
  • Terminal backout in anti-lock brake electronic control module harness connector Pins 17, 29, 37 and 38.
  • Open or shorted pump motor relay coil.
  • Open contacts in pump motor relay.
  • Terminal backout in pump motor 4-way, Pins 1, 2, 3 or 4.
Code 63 is generated by the anti-lock brake electronic control module when the pump motor is triggered but does not run.

Possible Contributing Component/Vehicle Wiring Concerns



  • Damaged pump motor.
  • Terminal backout in harness connector Pins 17, 29, 37 and 38 of the anti-lock brake electronic control module
  • Open or shorted pump motor relay coil
  • Open contacts in pump motor relay
  • Terminal backout in pump motor 4-way connector, Pins 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • Open Circuit 539 (PK/LB)
S1 VISUAL INSPECTION AND EQUIPMENT HOOKUP
  • Make sure the battery is OK. Refer to Battery and Charging System, Service.
  • Inspect anti-lock brake electronic control module pins, 30 amp pump motor feed fuse, battery and ground connections, relay connections and pump motor connections.
  • Disconnect anti-lock brake electronic control module, install Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 and Rotunda Breakout Box Adapter with Overlay 007-00103 or equivalent. Verify ground.
  • Jumper Pins 1 and 19 together.
  • Key on (energize main relay).
  • Jumper Pins 1 and 29 together (energize pump motor relay).
Is pump motor running?


YesNo
GO to S9.GO to S2.
S2 VOLTAGE CHECK 1 AND 4
  • Disconnect pump motor connector.
  • Using battery positive lead, connect B+ to Pin 4 (533) and to Pin 1 (57) on anti-lock hydraulic control unit side of 4-way connector.
Does pump motor run?


YesNo
GO to S3.REPLACE anti-lock hydraulic control unit. GO to S13.
S3 VOLTAGE CHECK, PINS 1 AND 3
  • Disconnect 4-pin pump motor connector.
  • Measure voltage between Pins 1 and 3 on the harness side connector.
Are there at least 8 volts?


YesNo
REPLACE anti-lock hydraulic control unit. GO to S13.GO to S4.
S4 CHECK PIN 1 GROUND
  • Check for continuity between Pin 1 on the harness side connector and a known good chassis ground.
Is there continuity?


YesNo
GO to S5.REPAIR open in Circuit 57 (BK). GO to S13.
S5 CONTINUITY CHECK, CIRCUIT 533 (T/R)
  • Key off.
  • Remove pump motor relay.
  • Check continuity on Circuit 533 (T/R) to Pin 4.
Is there continuity?


YesNo
GO to S6.REPAIR open in Circuit 533 (T/R). GO to S13.
S6 CONTINUITY CHECK, PUMP MOTOR RELAY TO MAIN RELAY
  • Remove main relay.
  • Check continuity between pump motor relay Circuit 532 (O/Y) and main relay Circuit 532 (O/Y).
Is there continuity?


YesNo
GO to S7.REPAIR Circuit 532 (O/Y). GO to S13.
S7 CONTINUITY CHECK, PUMP MOTOR RELAY CIRCUIT 534 (Y/LG)
  • Disconnect battery negative cable.
  • Check continuity from pump motor relay Circuit 534 (Y/LG) to battery (+) connection point.
  • Reconnect battery negative cable when finished
Is there continuity?


YesNo
GO to S8.REPAIR open in Circuit 534 (Y/LG) or REPLACE 30A fuse. GO to S13.
S8 CONTINUITY CHECK, PUMP MOTOR RELAY CIRCUIT 539 (PK/LB)
  • Check continuity from pump motor relay Circuit 539 (PK/LB) to Pin 29 on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent.
Is there continuity?


YesNo
REPLACE pump motor relay. GO to S13.REPAIR open in Circuit 539 (PK/LB). GO to S13.
S9 CHECK PUMP MOTOR SPEED SENSOR RESISTANCE
  • Key off.
  • Connect Rotunda 88 Digital Multimeter 105-00053 or equivalent to Pins 37 and 38 on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent and measure resistance.
Is resistance between 5 and 40 ohms?


YesNo
GO to S10.REPLACE anti-lock hydraulic control unit. BLEED brake system. GO to S13.
S10 CHECK PUMP MOTOR SPEED SENSOR WIRING
  • Measure resistance between Pin 37 on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent Circuit 604 (O/R) and pump motor harness connector pin for Circuit 604 (O/R).
  • Measure resistance between Pin 38 on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent Circuit 462 (P) and pump motor harness connector pin for Circuit 462 (P).
Is either measured resistance greater than 5 ohms?


YesNo
REPAIR open in the affected circuit. GO to S13.GO to S11.
S11 CHECK PUMP MOTOR SPEED SENSOR OUTPUT
  • Key off.
  • Jumper Pins 1 and 19 together on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent.
  • Jumper Pins 1 and 29 together on the Rotunda Breakout Box 014-00322 or equivalent (enable pump motor relay.)
  • Switch meter to frequency (Hz).
  • Key on (energize main relay).
  • Measure pump motor speed sensor output between Breakout Box Pins 37 and 38.
Is output at least 150 Hz?


YesNo
Key off. GO to S13.REPLACE anti-lock hydraulic control unit. BLEED brake system. GO to S13.
S12 CHECK IF ALL STEPS HAVE BEEN COMPLETED
  • CAUTION: If the following is not complete, chances are that replacement of this or any other system component without specific direction will not, in most circumstances, resolve the concern and will consequently result in customer dissatisfaction.
  • Make sure a valid diagnostic trouble code has been obtained, all prior diagnostic steps have been completed and the affected wiring integrity has been verified.
Have all prior diagnostic steps been completed as described above?


YesNo
REPLACE anti-lock brake electronic control module. GO to S13.GO to last diagnostic step completed and CONTINUE.
S13 VERIFY CONDITION RESOLVED
  • Clear all codes.
  • Key off.
  • Key on.
  • Retrieve code.
Was original code obtained?


YesNo
If Step S9 is complete, GO to Step S14. If Step S9 is not complete, GO to Pinpoint Test W.GO to pinpoint test for corresponding code. If Code 16 is obtained, GO to Pinpoint Test X.
S14 VERIFY INTEGRITY OF VEHICLE WIRING
  • Refer to Pinpoint Test W(Intermittent Diagnosis) and perform for all affected circuits as shown on the mini-schematic at the beginning of this pinpoint test.
Is resolution achieved?


YesNo
GO to S13 for system OK verification.GO to S12.
Thanks, sir. I think it might be just a little bit past my ametuer abilities.. haha.
 

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4,992 Posts
I had to replace the ABS pump on my '96 when it was about 5 years old (out of warranty). I hunted and found one at a junk yard, replaced it with no problems (no special bleeding procedure). I took apart my old one and found that the inside of the motor was filled with rust. The motor is a fairly standard DC motor, it has brushes and it has an extra set of wipers that are used for the computer to count the revolutions of the motor shaft.
Now notice where the ABS pump is. It sits in a CUTOUT in the inner fender panel, right where water (and salt brine for us northerners) can get to it. Now look very carefully at the bottom of the black motor cover. There is about a 1/4" vent hole drilled into the bottom of the motor cover. So, my guess is that is where, in my case, the water/salt mixture got into the motor and rusted it. I then took some metal duct tape and taped over the hole. I assume the hole is to vent heat out of the motor, but think about it, that motor only runs in an emergency and then for only a few seconds, so how much heat can it build up?
I haven't had to replace it since, and it is my winter beater (my '94 is rust free and I want to keep it that way, so it stays garaged all winter).
The code 63 is sensed when the motor doesn't turn as determined by the sensor not sensing motor rotations. The ABS motor goes through a self test every time you start the truck. Place your foot with some medium pressure on the brake pedal and start your truck, you should feel the pulsations of the motor as it self tests.
It's too late for your motor, but maybe someone reading this will have their, scarce as hens teeth, ABS motor saved.
 

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Joined
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28,219 Posts
Thanks, sir. I think it might be just a little bit past my ametuer abilities.. haha.
Yo truester.rooster,
I hear you, been there and now reverting to a local shop for some repairs due to age (my age not our 96:cool:).

One possibilty, our 96s anti-lock brake electronic control module's microprocessors self-destructed. It caused our E4OD to downshift suddely at speed and speedometer to swing wildly.
Find a knowledgeable

Seek an Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) repair shop.
Search for one @ Repair centers
I searched for SeattIe ,found one in Seattle and one in Bellevue.
Good fortune!
 

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Registered
'96 Bronco 5.8L. 2.5" Tuff Country lift w/ extended radius arms, 33" Duratracs. Saginaw swap.
Joined
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yo truester.rooster,
I hear you, been there and now reverting to a local shop for some repairs due to age (my age not our 96:cool:).

One possibilty, our 96s anti-lock brake electronic control module's microprocessors self-destructed. It caused our E4OD to downshift suddely at speed and speedometer to swing wildly.
Find a knowledgeable

Seek an Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) repair shop.
Search for one @ Repair centers
I searched for SeattIe ,found one in Seattle and one in Bellevue.
Good fortune!
Thank you!
 
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Reactions: miesk5

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Registered
'96 Bronco 5.8L. 2.5" Tuff Country lift w/ extended radius arms, 33" Duratracs. Saginaw swap.
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had to replace the ABS pump on my '96 when it was about 5 years old (out of warranty). I hunted and found one at a junk yard, replaced it with no problems (no special bleeding procedure). I took apart my old one and found that the inside of the motor was filled with rust. The motor is a fairly standard DC motor, it has brushes and it has an extra set of wipers that are used for the computer to count the revolutions of the motor shaft.
Now notice where the ABS pump is. It sits in a CUTOUT in the inner fender panel, right where water (and salt brine for us northerners) can get to it. Now look very carefully at the bottom of the black motor cover. There is about a 1/4" vent hole drilled into the bottom of the motor cover. So, my guess is that is where, in my case, the water/salt mixture got into the motor and rusted it. I then took some metal duct tape and taped over the hole. I assume the hole is to vent heat out of the motor, but think about it, that motor only runs in an emergency and then for only a few seconds, so how much heat can it build up?
I haven't had to replace it since, and it is my winter beater (my '94 is rust free and I want to keep it that way, so it stays garaged all winter).
The code 63 is sensed when the motor doesn't turn as determined by the sensor not sensing motor rotations. The ABS motor goes through a self test every time you start the truck. Place your foot with some medium pressure on the brake pedal and start your truck, you should feel the pulsations of the motor as it self tests.
It's too late for your motor, but maybe someone reading this will have their, scarce as hens teeth, ABS motor saved.
I appreciate the input, man. If it does turn out to be the pump itself, I will do your trick.
 
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