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BTW there are NO OBDII codes or KOEO codes.
Then you're not reading them right, or the scanner you're using is hiding some codes from you.
Would that still cause the ABS light.
Yes, the ABS light circuit is built to stay on if the module is disconnected. Pulling the bulb is the least-invasive way to disable it; especially if you want to repair the ABS someday.
Again, sorry if I come off like an idiot.
You're a LOOOOOONG way from that! :thumbup Some guys won't lift a finger, or read anything that wasn't typed after they started their threads, and expect to be spoonfed.
 

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Hahaha. Thanks Steve83. I'll at least attempt to fix it on my own. That's the only way to learn. I'll probably just pull the light for the bulb then. I don't plan on selling it cause I plan on giving it to my son in a few years, but at least it's there if we do sell it. The scanner I'm using is the one we use at Advance Auto Parts where I work. I can't think of the brand or the model right now, but it's nothing fancy. I got a friend at a shop here that's got one that you can put on it and it'll give you an active readout while you drive. Would that show anything better?
 

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hey, so looking at that, they removed a fuse but never put one back. any reason to skip an in-line fuse holder?
yoD,
Ken wrote; "...Go back to the PDB with your wire and fuse holder and cut two 6ft lengths of wire. Drill 2 1/4 inch holes in the lid of the PDB near the hinge and feed the wires through and insert the grommets. On the end of one wire add the fuse holder, on both ends of wire attach the male blade connectors. Stick the male blade connectors in the socket for the fuse and place the fuse in the fuse holder. Put the fuse holder upside down in the void at the end of the bottom of the center row of fuses..."
 

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Old Thread New Question

I know this is an old thread but I wanted to know what everyone used to bypass the HCU? As for the hydraulic lines going into the unit, is there a T for the front brakes and just an adapter for the rear brake lines?

Thanks in advance,
Allcruisen :usa
 

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I know this is an old thread but I wanted to know what everyone used to bypass the HCU? As for the hydraulic lines going into the unit, is there a T for the front brakes and just an adapter for the rear brake lines?

Thanks in advance,
Allcruisen :usa
Yo allcruisen,

4WABS Delete in a 94;" ...no on the hcu. get rid of that fawker. It does nothing, and I would be willing to bet you wont even need a prop valve, unless you are running rear discs, which I dont think you are IIRC. All a prop valve does is reduce the pressure to the rear to kkep it from locking up, so unless that is a problem, you dont need one, and can always add it later. I bent all new brake lines from the mc to the front and rear, though I did tie into the stock rear where there is a union (about under the drivers door). I ran a new line to a single drop line like the old sytle brakes. Much cleaner imo, and will never limit my tavel like the stock dual drop lines. the only fawker is that ford uses metric stuff now, and used standard back then, so make sure you get you nuts right if you bend new lines..."
by Damon H (Plug Ugly) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/29-solid-axle-swaps/3510-deleting-abs.html
I checked Damon's http://www.supermotors.net/registry/1278 site, but no pics.
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MidlifeCrisisUndrWay
1994 Ford Bronco XL 5.0L
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> why not just pull the fuse? kills the abs system and everything else still works. <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<


thats what i did.....hell, after the sas i dont even have wheel sensors on the front anymore but the pump is still there. since it doesnt get a signal it's just neutral to the system.
.
How accurate is this statement?
 
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