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Discussion Starter #1
Another one for consideration.

Have the ABS code 63. First the background:

Moves forward and the light is 'off'. Once it hits 6MPH the light comes on. Pulled only this code. States pump issue.

Now first off? I'm not a fan of ABS. I'm pushing 50 years old and I've driven in ice and snowy conditions with everything from a 78' Sport Fury to a '77 LTD II (with a 351w) So I'm okay with driving without it.

However-- I also like all safety items to work so I don't get he&& for inspections. Just as a goof, I found another ABS pump out of a 1995 bronco at the local yard. Simple to remove. I wired it in place as a test in ours. Sure enough. 6mph later? Lights back on...And this is a different pump- Granted it might also have a bad pump as well. (note: This was just a test to see if the motor would pass what would seem to be a 'test'...)

Question would be: Wiring pinouts for the pump and controller. I see there's a relay for the ABS. I'm considering triggering it with a bypass relay and doing the tap with a hammer to see if it frees up.....

But the main question: Theory of operation for starting up and the self testing it seems to do. Am I to assume that the system-once you hit 6MPH...does a pump running test on it's own to see if things work? Has anyone documented this? Just wondering. I'm sure to get an ear full from the local dealership tomorrow when it goes in for the recall on the brake switch. They love to sell services...

Thanks!

S-
 

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Can you feel the ABS pump cycle when you first start up? Hold you foot on the brake (about medium pressure) and start the truck, you should feel the brake pedal pulse a few times, that is the ABS pump self test, checks most of the ABS functions. No pulsing means the pump motor is not able to run, or is not being told to run. (check relay and fuse)
You can test a junk yard pump by putting +12v to the larger brown and red wires on the 4 wire connector, the two small wires are for the motor speed sensor. If you do test a motor, put the motor in a zip-loc or something, as when you run the motor, any brake fluid will spray out the ports and all over you.
Unfortunately, Ford put that super expensive pump in a very hostile location, and to make sure it failed, Ford cut the wheel well away so salt and crap can get splashed on it, and also drilled a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the motor housing to help the salt brine to enter the pump and destroy it from the inside. If/When you get a good, new (to you) pump, take some metallic duct tape and tape over the vent hole, RTV the motor to housing area (where the black pump motor meets the pot metal housing), and then paint the duct tape patch to try and keep any more debris from getting inside.


1996 Ford Bronco '94 EVTM picture | SuperMotors.net
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah you're right about the location. I had to change a busted brake line before we could put this on the road. I'm decent with brake line bending-but this one took the taco for location.

The pump we picked up is going back to the yard as a no-good. We plugged in the connectors and had it secured on top of the air inlet tubes. No sign of any action. (like you said....it should have sprayed brake fluid, activated, songs.....anything to show some life to it....Totally dead)

The pump motor itself is also pretty lousy with rust on the exterior. Safe bet it's worse on the inside. It was the only one the yard had that would fit, So we're invoking the 3 day cash back. 4-30 day's after that it'll be 'credit'. This yard and I don't see eye to eye on many things, so I hope they don't give me crap about the return.


Can you feel the ABS pump cycle when you first start up? Hold you foot on the brake (about medium pressure) and start the truck, you should feel the brake pedal pulse a few times, that is the ABS pump self test, checks most of the ABS functions.
Would be nice if Ford had designed that so it would trigger the light BEFORE the truck was in motion LOL. Otherwise I'd be chasing down sensors if not for the code pulled.

S-
 

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The ABS pump test (pulsing pedal) happens at every start-up. Like I said, if you don't feel the pulsing, the motor pump failed to start. You don't have to move the truck to feel the initial self test. The ABS light comes on at 6 MPH probably because the ABS system is looking at the speed sensors (on each front wheel and on the rear axle), no need to display the ABS light if you don't move the truck I guess.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The ABS pump test (pulsing pedal) happens at every start-up. Like I said, if you don't feel the pulsing, the motor pump failed to start. You don't have to move the truck to feel the initial self test. The ABS light comes on at 6 MPH probably because the ABS system is looking at the speed sensors (on each front wheel and on the rear axle), no need to display the ABS light if you don't move the truck I guess.

Good Luck
We'll go out and I'll have the wife start it. I'll have my hand on the pump and see if I can feel anything, or if she can feel the pedal.

Had more good news when I got home. Figured out why all the stop leak was in the system. Radiator started seeping out of the side core. (Plastic Junk....)

Have no choice but to drive it a few days like that. We always keep a couple of gallons of 50/50 in reserve for problems. It should hold together for a few more days until I can get a new radiator ordered in.

S-
 

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She should feel two or three "thumps" in the pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did a lot of testing on the Cruise and tried to figure out the ABS.

The ABS motor appears to be getting no power at all.

We do feel a "Thump" in the pedal when we start it up. Just a single 'thump'. I figure that's one of the solenoids activating.

I'm going to bypass the relay the next time I get a day off to work on the ol' girl. I can't feel the motor even attempting to engage. (Had my hand on the motor while the wife was going "On/Off" repeatedly. I can feel a solo 'thump that seems to resonate a bit... But I feel no vibrations or anything else from the physical motor.

The cruise issues (on a different thread.) have me a bit confused. I'll post along on the other thread.

S-
 

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Yo Ted,
4WABS Pin-Point Testing in 93-96 Bronco; This is same as in Ford EVTM/PCED/Workshop Manual
See code 63
(read pin-point test procedure before R&R parts) and pin-point test steps

In lieu of the obsolete Ford Rotunda pin-out box (avail. on e bay, etc. but often it does Not include the overlays or cables), you can go to the connector (cited in test) pins instead
 

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miesk5, have you ever investigated/solved the mystery of why virtually all the parts websites in existence try to tell me the '93MY had RABS when in fact it was only ever built with 4WABS? Makes buying parts very irritating for that system because the descriptions are always wrong and I'm not sure I'm getting what I need.
 

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Yo pollux,
"1996 F-Series Except for F-Super Duty and F-Series Commercial and Motorhome Stripped Chassis, Light Trucks are equipped with a Rear Antilock Brake System" by Ford in 96 F-Series owners guide. I looked @ 96 F-Super Duty owner's guide but it wasn't fully addressed, except for:
"Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light To check the amber ABS brake warning light turn the ignition key to ON. The ABS brake warning light should glow momentarily. NOTE: If it does not glow momentarily, have your vehicle’s electrical system checked immediately. NOTE: If the ABS brake warning light begins to flash in a repeatable flash sequence, check the rear anti-lock system continuous power fuse.
Rear Disc Brakes (F-Super Duty and F-Series Stripped Chassis Only) The rear disc brakes are self-adjusting. They do not require service other than periodic lubrication of the caliper slide rails and inspection for pad wear.
Rear Anti-lock Brakes Except for F-Super Duty and F-Series Commercial and Motorhome Stripped Chassis, F-Series Light Trucks are equipped with a Rear Antilock Brake System. This system prevents at least one and often both rear wheels from locking up when the brakes are applied in a panic stop, for example. Even with the Anti-lock Brake System, you should be careful when braking. Front brake lock up on any surface, even on smooth pavement causes loss of steering control. Heavy braking on roads with loose surfaces such as snow or gravel, or severe pavement irregularities could also cause you to lose steering control of your vehicle. "
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yo Ted,
4WABS Pin-Point Testing in 93-96 Bronco; This is same as in Ford EVTM/PCED/Workshop Manual
See code 63
(read pin-point test procedure before R&R parts) and pin-point test steps

In lieu of the obsolete Ford Rotunda pin-out box (avail. on e bay, etc. but often it does Not include the overlays or cables), you can go to the connector (cited in test) pins instead

Forgive my ignorance if I'm missing something totally obvious....

Where is that information to be found? I do not possess a Ford EVTM/PCED workshop manual.

Thanks!

S-
 

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Yeah you're right about the location. I had to change a busted brake line before we could put this on the road. I'm decent with brake line bending-but this one took the taco for location.

The pump we picked up is going back to the yard as a no-good. We plugged in the connectors and had it secured on top of the air inlet tubes. No sign of any action. (like you said....it should have sprayed brake fluid, activated, songs.....anything to show some life to it....Totally dead)

The pump motor itself is also pretty lousy with rust on the exterior. Safe bet it's worse on the inside. It was the only one the yard had that would fit, So we're invoking the 3 day cash back. 4-30 day's after that it'll be 'credit'. This yard and I don't see eye to eye on many things, so I hope they don't give me crap about the return.




Would be nice if Ford had designed that so it would trigger the light BEFORE the truck was in motion LOL. Otherwise I'd be chasing down sensors if not for the code pulled.

S-
The Explorers of the same vintage used the same 4WABS pump. The only difference is the connector is reversed. I've had better luck finding those at junk yards than trying to find a random Bronco hanging out. Of course, most of them are also dead.

There are some vendors on ebay selling NOS units. I paid ~$200 for one last year. For me, it made more sense to just buy a new part vs constantly getting untested used parts, swapping them, bleeding the system, testing, etc. Sometimes Rock Auto will get reman Bronco units in stock. I saw some several months ago but they were in the $400 range
 

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I chase a couple of used pump assemblies all over god's green earth to no avail.....no idea if the fuckers knew they were defective of not
Problem was finally solved when a bought a reman unit (it was very hard to find)
Would have provided link, but I can no longer find it

The only other part, aside from the wheel sensors that will throw a different code, is the 'brain' located behind the drivers side headlight
 

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This is where you can buy a reman ABS unit !!!
Yo Para,
Thanks for the update! Other here and in other Big Bronco forums rate them very high too!
 
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