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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all ,

I rarely use my AC , last week I turned it on and it is making a racket. Here is a video of it , its not the regular cycling clicking noise , but a very loud constant clocking noise .

The previous owner did the r134 conversion and I have owned it for about a decade , AC has worked pretty good all of those years but this noise is certainly new. I have the compressor unplugged now.


I checked the low pressure side and it was in range , the AC is blowing cold as well.

Is the compressor about to crap the bed ? Anything I can check ? or is it just time to redo the system. I dont know much at all about AC systems , but have found a few good threads to go off.

If the compressor is toast , do I need to get one of those bypass pulleys ? or will a crappy compressor work fine as a pulley (assuming the compressor is not turned on) to get me by until I redo the system.

Thanks in advance all for any guidance.
 

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Wow! That sounds really bad!

You should be OK as long as the AC is not turned on.
 

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Yo Riggs,
Use a short section of garden hose to act as a mechanics stethoscope to listen to the compressor clutch bearing.
Beware of fan, belt blades, pulleyd & hot engine
 

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I presume the sound isn't there when it's off? If so you definitely have a internal part failing making that noise. Replace the compressor now or it could fill the system with debris and make life a living hell down the road. As long as the compressor is not engaged it will act as just another idler pulley. When mine seized and the clutch burned up I just unplugged the clutch. I wouldn't recommend removing the AC system, as it will be a nightmare should you decide you want it again in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK , cool thanks for the replies fellas . Yes the noise is not there unless the AC system is on , I have it unplugged so no worries there . AC is nice , but its not a must have item for me.

I was worried that it may cause a breakdown and eat my belt if the compressor is compromised, even if the compressor is off , but it doesn't sounds like that is the case.

I will start piecing together the new components to redo the AC system , new compressor , hoses , etc. I found a few good threads on that topic
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Can one of you AC gurus look over this list of what I am getting ready to order ?

new AC compressor , visteon FS10 with 6 groove pulley
both new hoses
Oring kit
AC drier
Red fixed orifice tube
PAG oil and of course the r134 , how much r134 is a good guestimate that the system will take once its vacuumed down ?

Anything I am missing ? or is this a good start

Thanks again ,


163042
 

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Your truck will have a sticker stating the amount of refrigerant. Being that you are going r134a on a system that was originally r12 it will be a bit different. IIRC 3 12 OZ cans should do it but having 4 just in case won't hurt. I would recommend going to walmart for the refrigerant. Last I checked it was $5 or $6 for a 12 Oz can of basic r134a. Don't buy into any of that super cool refrigerant crap. These systems kick ass when working properly. Just get the basic r134a. Here's a pic of my stock. I tend to keep a good amount on hand so I'm always ready.
163076

Something of note is that they've gone to this new valve system on refrigerant cans instead of the old school piercing can tap. That little blue thing is an adapter that's supposed to allow the piercing can tap (pictured) to work with new cans. I never got it to work right. I found the old style can tap works if you only screw it in about halfway but it's finicky. So either get a new style can type or a side piercing can tap.
You might be able to get O rings a bit cheaper in an assortment from a parts store. As long as they are green (HNBR) they should work. I tend to buy one pack every time I do a complete Ac system and never use all of them.

You'll need some service port adapters as well. Don't crank them down, just lightly snug so they don't leak.

Autozone rents a flush tool and flush you can use for the condensor and evaporator.

My compressor mechanically locked up but didn't fill the system with debris, I still flushed everything to be safe. Usually I don't replace hoses unless they have failed but since yours was originally r12 it doesn't hurt to replace them since the new ones should be barrier hoses that can handle r134a better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Awesome , thanks for the heads up on on all of that . great advice in there Pfun41

Quick question , you mention service port adapters and getting those . Wont those be the "new" style r134 and already be on those hoses I am getting ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
also, you mentioned renting a flush machine.

I was just planning on buying a couple gallons of acetone and rigging up some hose and blow the acetone through with a compressor. is the flush machine the way to go ?
 

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Awesome , thanks for the heads up on on all of that . great advice in there Pfun41

Quick question , you mention service port adapters and getting those . Wont those be the "new" style r134 and already be on those hoses I am getting ?
It's been a while since I did it but IIRC the ports are always the same as they were factory, meaning for r12 gauges in this case. Also the low port is on the accumulator/receiver/drier ( I keep forgetting which name it is on r134a). You might be able to use a 94+ receiver/drier/accumulator and low pressure hose to get the r134a service ports but don't quote me on that, it's just a theory and I've never tried it. But if you went that far you could just as easily buy the entire r134a system from a JY 94+ truck and drop it in, but I would only do that if you had the black death and everything needed to be replaced.
also, you mentioned renting a flush machine.

I was just planning on buying a couple gallons of acetone and rigging up some hose and blow the acetone through with a compressor. is the flush machine the way to go ?
They give you your money back on the flush machine when you return it, so all you pay for is the flush. IDK how the system/ refrigerants/oils/seals/ect would react to acetone if any amount got stuck in there, So I'd play it safe and use the proper stuff. Autozone rents it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey all , I'm getting ready to get the ac job done and have a final question.

I was initially thinking of going back to r12 based on the lower pressures , but I think I will just stick with 134 based on availability.

One question though , I read that using the condenser made for r12 with 134 is not ideal and that the condensers made for 134 are larger.

So has anyone ever installed a 93-96 condenser into an older rig? Are the threadings and subsequent hose connections all the same ? I would like to use a new 134 condenser if it's just simply swapping it in.

Thanks all
 

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The core support center bracket is different from r12 to r134a. You will need to grab one of those in the salvage yard I believe..I just know they are different I dont know if it affects the condenser install.

There is also a TSB for the amount of pag oil in the system. It needs to be 4oz or so more than the core support sticker. TSB 97-10-5. https://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/docs/sn95_TSBs/97-10-05.pdf Maybe @miesk5 can archive that for us. I usually buy pag oil with dye already in it. Last time I bought it from Advance auto with coupon code online. The pag # is used in about all r134a ford vehicle so I bought a 32 oz bottle. It's also extremely hard to get the orifice tube out of the evap. I damaged mine :( think steve suggest threading a dry wall screw into but my memory may be wrong.

Refrigerant and Oil Charge Can Tap Valve 3-in-1 Tool side can tap. works well.

You will need a vacuum pump and a decent r134a manifold gauge set. Ebay has some decent ones for $50. 3 Way AC Diagnostic Manifold Gauge Set for Freon Charging, Fits R134A R12 R22 | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the response @GetBent4x4.

if its a different support it sounds like it will be some fairly heavy modification , I will just flush mine out as good as possible and stick with the original in my 91.

I dont use the AC all the time , but since I am redoing the system just want to do it right and best as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Hey guys , digging this thread up as I have marked aside this weekend to do my AC conversion and hopefully the right way . I have all of the new parts and everything ready to go , just need to swap them all in.

I do have a couple of noob questions before I start though.

I bought a new , not reman Denso compressor , it had about 1.5 ounces of oil in it.

Question is , when adding the oil for a new system. How much oil do I put into the compressor ? and in what port ? how much into drier ? how much into evap , etc.

I have read several threads that mention 8 ounces total for the system , but not a specific breakdown of how much and where.

any recommendations ? Or a link someone can share


Thanks again
 
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