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Discussion Starter #1
I know that some of you guys are using this Accel coil



Primary Resistance 0.2 Ohms
Secondary Resistance 8.8 Kohms
Turns Ratio 132:1

I can get from my local supplier this one



Primary Resistance 0.7 Ohms
Secondary Resistance 10.0 Kohms
Turns Ratio 70:1

Will this coil work? will it cook my ignition? Can I have any other problem?

Regards

Rodolfo
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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The only significant difference between the two is the turns ratio, which will dictate how much PEAK voltage you will be able to get. Note that you only need ~20kV for ignition, and more isn't always better. The spark plug will only 'use' as much voltage as needed for jumping the gap. I single-quoted the word 'use' because there's a lot more to it, but it's simple enough for a brief explanation.

broncAR: if your '86 has TFI-IV it will work fine. Otherwise, you'll have a Duraspark and an inline resistive positive lead, which means you need an oil-filled coil. There are plenty of those on the market, too.
 

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i was gonna buy a MSD coil today because i heard Accel was junk....so what is better??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What I have now is similar to this:



Which I assume is not oil filled.

My concern is the different resistances of both coils which I don't know how the EEC-IV handles hence I’m afraid of frying something.

According to your advice I’ll give it a try and let you know how it goes.

Regards

Rodolfo
 

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Practicing Infidel
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15,297 Posts
84broncorig said:
i was gonna buy a MSD coil today because i heard Accel was junk....so what is better??
I've tried both

I ran several MSDs and they were dying (under warantee fortunately) on me so Canadian Tire said why not try an Accel instead. They even gave me the difference back in my wallet too (the Accel was $8.00 cheaper).

That one died prematurely too, which proved to me it MIGHT not be the coils. The Ford mechanic changing my steering column ignition switch gave me a new coil wire connector we crimped on. It was similar to that three wire pigtail and plug in BroncAR's pic except the wires had to be 10 gauge (super thick).

My coil burning out stopped then and there and I've had the replacement MSD on mine now for four years no troubles.

Sixlitre
 

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well i just bought a MSD for 54 at autozone.....hopefully it helps. what size wires are you guys running with them coils??
 

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Practicing Infidel
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84broncorig said:
well i just bought a MSD for 54 at autozone.....hopefully it helps. what size wires are you guys running with them coils??
Very important to run really good aftermarket wires, not just the low-line wires your shop gets a deal on.

They have to carry the bigger spark to the Autolite plugs gapped out wider than stock to .055 to really make a noticeable difference, in my experience(deftly answers Scorpionboy at the same time).

People here convinced me to buy Taylor SpiroPros and Ford Racing wires (smokin' deal at the stealership) and they were right.

Sixlitre

p.s./
Give the computer a few days to learn the new components then bump the timing from 10 to 13.5 degrees and get even more power, acceleration and mileage improvements.
 

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crank trigger
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Sixlitre said:
Very important to run really good aftermarket wires, not just the low-line wires your shop gets a deal on.

They have to carry the bigger spark to the Autolite plugs gapped out wider than stock to .055 to really make a noticeable difference, in my experience(deftly answers Scorpionboy at the same time).

People here convinced me to buy Taylor SpiroPros and Ford Racing wires (smokin' deal at the stealership) and they were right.

Sixlitre

p.s./
Give the computer a few days to learn the new components then bump the timing from 10 to 13.5 degrees and get even more power, acceleration and mileage improvements.

Thanks Six. I just put Accel 300+ racing wires on, and that made a nice diff right there. the old ones sucked and were prolly leaking and everything.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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ScorpionBoy said:
Thanks Six. I just put Accel 300+ racing wires on, and that made a nice diff right there. the old ones sucked and were prolly leaking and everything.
Probably were Scorpionboy

Somebody here used to remind us to lift the hood late at night, with the headlights off and "watch the show". Sparks crossfiring and prematurely grounding everywhere.

have you got the plug gaps opened up and the timing bumped ? You're missing out if not !

Sixlitre
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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You guys are probably going to laugh at this, but what the hey. A few years back, a fellow 'Stang buddy of mine and myself set out to find a set of decent wires with the least resistance. Turned out the SplitFire (yes, the crappy spark plug company) wires were the lowest, and the silicone jackets weren't that bad, either.

I think in the grand scheme, the higher-turns-ratio coils will give you some 'insurance' that you're going to have spark when the gap is opened. Reason being that the ionization voltage goes up significantly when gaps are beyond specification.

One other aspect to look at is the ignition module if it's old. They can test fine on a bench tester, even to the point they're hot. It may even let the engine run fine. However, an ignition module is essentially a transistorized switch. With bad spark plug wires, they fail much more quickly because all of that inductive energy in the coil has to go somewhere. Eventually the transistors can get 'lazy' and the switching speed suffers after years of use and abuse. I've replaced quite a few ignition modules with new ones just on 'hunches' even after they test good, and have been surprised by the results. They usually allow vehicles to start MUCH faster and get better mileage. I'm replacing the original on my BKO as soon as I can scrape up $45, and also installing my MSD box from out of my Mustang.

FYI, if you guys are gapping them open that far, be sure your ground and center electrodes are parallel to each other. Otherwise it'll just be firing between the 'inside edges', and they won't last as long. If you can't get them parallel, try a different spark plug (brand and/or number). On these Ford IMCO heads, I would advise against the projected types of plugs; they do nothing on these.
 

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I went through 2 mds 2coils. Both of them leaked oil and didn't work when hot. Each lasted about 6 to 8 months. I'm using an msd 6a box with taylor wires and champion truck plugs. Right now I'm using a $20 coil I bought from the auto parts store in Oct and I have had no problems since but I was told by a parts dealer that if you have your key forward so you can play your radio that it will kill your coil prematurelly. Now I don't know how true this is??
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Not true on TFI-IV systems. If you want to test when the ignition coil is getting power through the primary winding, simply backprobe the coil connector with a test light. This is also a great way to tell if you're getting power to the coil in case you're having problems, and also if the ignition module is switching (the light will flash rapidly during cranking and/or running). If you turn the ignition switch forward to the RUN position, you'll see it come on for a brief time (same that the fuel pump runs), and it will promptly turn off. Ford actually thought this out, for once. :toothless

HOWEVER, on the older Duraspark systems (most non-EEC-IV), there WILL be current flowing through the coil ANY time the ignition is in the RUN or START position. You're more likely to smoke the ballast resistor under the dashboard than blow the coil, but either could happen. Any ignition system that cannot limit the time of the ignition coil current flow during engine non-operation, logically, can destroy the coil, i.e. older Chryslers, Fords, and possibly GMs.
 
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