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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I have an 85 WO/tilt. When I go to start it, the key just turns and does not come back. I think it is the actuator, but when it goes all the way forward, the emmisions light comes on. It's like the timing is off. Help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Canada, that makes since. I just wanted some help. I thought that's what this was here for. I did do a search and found conflicting results. I wanted to talk with someone. So if you are on here to be a prick, then you need a life.
 

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Canada, that makes since. I just wanted some help. I thought that's what this was here for. I did do a search and found conflicting results. I wanted to talk with someone. So if you are on here to be a prick, then you need a life.
Nope

just getting carpel answering the same questions over and over again. You'll note in some of the numerous threads we all typed out little fingers off assisting someone with the same question.

Use these words; actuator column ignition switch " and watch what comes up in a search.

These are common troubles answered many times in detail for your perusal

Sixlitre (the prick)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fine, I see everything on those posts, but I still have two questions.
1. Whould the emmisions light come on if it was a "broken" actuator?
2. I don't have a tilt wheel. All the posts talk about tilt wheels. Does that matter?
 

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when you turn the key the check engine light should come on until the key returns to the on position. When I turn the key to the run postion and start it all my idiot lights light up. Are there other lights that come on like the batt. light? If so the lights have nothing to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The check engine light comes on when I turn the key all the way forward. I mean all the way, until it wont go any more. That's when the light comes on, only for a few seconds.
 

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That should be normal, yours is an 85 so i don't know what other idiot lights it has but my truck does that and so does every other bronco and ford truck I have ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The problem is that it dosen't turn over. The key won't turn anymore once that light comes on. Thier is no return or anything.
 

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I was just trying to clear up the issue with the lights, but I think that your wheel not having tilt would not matter. If someone who had a little experience in the area that would help. (hint, hint)
 

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The problem is that it dosen't turn over. The key won't turn anymore once that light comes on. Thier is no return or anything.
Reach down lower on the column and find a steel rod running down the column. Using a pick tool or bent needle nose pliers, grab the steel rod and pull down on it with yo' left hand (while you have the key turned all the way on, with yo' right hand).

Bet you get a vrooom noise then !;)

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, I haven't tried that yet, but I will and thank you. I do have one more question. I did a search and found conflicting results. My battery won't hold a charge. It will jump start(after some persuation)but then it wont start on it's own after a few hours. This is of course before the actuator problem. You seem to know alot about this stuff. I am new to the Bronco world, so any help would be appreciated.
 

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Okay, I haven't tried that yet, but I will and thank you. I do have one more question. I did a search and found conflicting results. My battery won't hold a charge. It will jump start(after some persuation)but then it wont start on it's own after a few hours. This is of course before the actuator problem. You seem to know alot about this stuff. I am new to the Bronco world, so any help would be appreciated.
That trick should fire you up until you discover whether it's the column mounted ignition switch that's busted or the pot metal actuator (not likely on a non-tilt column, but possible).

Your battery should be taken out and into one of the many auto stores who will test it free for you. Once you've eliminated it as a suspect (free), then you can trace the short that is plaguing you.

disconnect the positive clamp from the + battery post and hook up a test light between the post and the clamp. If, with everything off (hood light bulb pulled out, doors shut) you get a "light" then you have a short.

Track backwards and pull fuses until the light goes out. Once you see the light out, note that fuse and track down that circuit for the short.

Make sure your battery is good first though. 80-86s are poor years electrically (I know I'm an 86er). It doesn't help that grounds are deteriorating and coming up on 23 model years old (in your case).

Mine was plagued with electrical gremlins and shortcomings until I stuck on a 3G Taurus 130 amp alternator. That pretty much cured what ailed my 86'. That and brand new huge ground cables EVERYWHERE !

Sixlitre
 

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A) This problem rarely affects NONtilt columns.

B) Many people who fight this problem don't know that their columns DO tilt. Look at the slot where the blinker stalk goes in. Is it shaped like this <] ? If so, is there a vertical bar visible FORWARD of the blinker stalk? If so, you have a tilt column.

If you have cruise buttons, you have a tilt column. If you can see the release pin for the ignition lock cylinder, you have a tilt column.
Steve, my 90 has everything you described even the white bar in front of the blinker stalk, yet my wheel doesn't tilt. Can you maybe tell me if I am an idiot or the wheel just won't tilt?(If I am an idiot can you tell me how to make it tilt?)
 

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Steve, my 90 has everything you described even the white bar in front of the blinker stalk, yet my wheel doesn't tilt. Can you maybe tell me if I am an idiot or the wheel just won't tilt?(If I am an idiot can you tell me how to make it tilt?)
I'm pretty sure it was Steve that told me,

as a newbie in the old BBS forum, that my column actually tilted. I'd owned it more than a year at that point and coming from Mopars it was almost foreign the way it worked.

On my 86' you puts yer left thumb gently onto the turn stalk end and push gently forward, whilst thy right hand (sitting on the wheel at 12 o'clock) gently pulls down.

My first inkling was "this will break with me driving it", but it's been 8 years+ and it still works TG (and Steve).

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #16
okay Six, need some more help. I did what you said with the fuses. Tried them all and nothing. They all light up the test light when pulled. I pray this is good and you have another idea for me. By the way, thanks to Steve, I found out that I do have a tilt wheel. I haven't even started on that deal yet. I want this battery problem fixed first. Help...
 

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okay Six, need some more help. I did what you said with the fuses. Tried them all and nothing. They all light up the test light when pulled. I pray this is good and you have another idea for me. By the way, thanks to Steve, I found out that I do have a tilt wheel. I haven't even started on that deal yet. I want this battery problem fixed first. Help...
The test light connected between the + battery post and the (removed from the battery) + battery clamp, should not light.

If it lights, with the doors shut, radio fuse pulled and underhood light bulb removed, then you have a short somewhere.

When you pull one of those fuses, eventually the right one will make the test light go out. THAT ! is the circuit that is giving you grief.

Sure you got the battery clamp OFF the post ?

SIxlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's what i'm saying man. I pulled the batt clamp completly off. I putt the alagator clip on it and touched the needle to the + terminal. I pulled every fuse and it lights up every time. The radio isn't hooked up, but I didn't know to pull that fuse. Would that make a difference?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Now, I have some news. I just finished messing with some stuff on the truck. Six, you were right. I used that rod and it turned over. I assume that means it is the actuator? I had to jump it because of the battery problem. I also noticed that the interior lights are not working. The switched ones do, but not the coutesy lights. I got it running and left it on for about five mins. I stopped it, then let it sit for ten. I had to jump it again. I still have no clue what it could be. Don't give up yet, PLEASE.
 

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Now, I have some news. I just finished messing with some stuff on the truck. Six, you were right. I used that rod and it turned over. I assume that means it is the actuator? I had to jump it because of the battery problem. I also noticed that the interior lights are not working. The switched ones do, but not the coutesy lights. I got it running and left it on for about five mins. I stopped it, then let it sit for ten. I had to jump it again. I still have no clue what it could be. Don't give up yet, PLEASE.
Forgive the cut and paste broncrog

but I think I really am getting carpal;

T MAX

Had that same actuator rod assembly go on mine two Decembers ago in front of a Ford dealership in a town a long way from home. It was obvious it wanted Ford parts and wasn't taking no for an answer so it stranded me in front of a Ford dealer (damn unreasonable female Broncos !).

The next morning I was in the Bronco the whole time holding a trouble light and passing tools to the super friendly master mechanic who taught me more in 1/2 a day than a one month course on columns could have.

There is a couple of special tools and pullers for getting that piece(which is critical to allowing the key cranking fuction at the different angles the tilt can get into) out and back in.

The way he was in and outta that column and the way he used a pick tool was awe inspiring. I vowed then and there to get some quality pick tools when I got back home and I did.

MAJOR TIP****************** LISTEN UP ALL NON CRANKING BRONCOS

I had thought the coil had died and swapped in a new one before taking it to the dealer (who more than earned his way out of being called a stealership). He told me it would have started that night before if I had done this;

He turned the key onto crank(nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started.

I was half pissed that I could have driven home that night if I'd known this, but realized that there probably wasn't a better Ford mechanic on the planet to have replace that actuator rod assembly quicker and diagnose the $11 column switch either.

SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD(with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP.

He told me yes the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch(it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die).

He also recommended I change that pot metal actuator rod assembly (Ford # E9TZ*3E715*B, $16.32 CDN). This took him half an hour and if I'd been able to do it I estimate even after my install lesson would have taken me most of the day.

He also recognized my round copper contact disc on the column was getting worn out and that was probably the reason my cruise was no longer working. Man if they'd had one in stock I'd have had him chuck one in !

Also learned about a super fix on our coil plugs. Mine's wires were nearly broken off. Part #9111 socket is a brand new coil plug with two wires going into it that have to be 10 gauge (little re-engineering there Ford ?) and come with blue solderless butt connectors on the end of the 18" long wires.

That was real lucky breakdown dieing in front of that particular Ford dealer !

Hope this helps y'all !

Sixlitre
 
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