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advice needed

2184 Views 23 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  knarf121
we just bought a 1988 e.b. bronco after selling my 1983 lariat , this one has electric shift transfer case. i've spent two hours looking through posts and didn't see this post anywhere. Push 4x4 button- motor works but stll no 4 wheel drive. Took driveshaft loose from transfer case it's still in 2 wheel drive. Tried 4low still no luck. Hubs lock and unlock when you turn driveshaft. I'm open for suggestions. 2ND question-- Going to replace both convertors with one hi-flow- will a turbo muffler and 2&1/2 inch pipe sound good?? Thanks for any help :confused:
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Go with a 3" main exhaust pipe
you might possibly check the WIRING from the switch, even though the motor is fine...

as for the turbo muffler - why get a turbo muffler if you have a non-turbo v8? and as for 2 and 1/2 piping, will sound good, but 3" will be better! and dont waste your money on a high flow cat - they dont give you that much more than what you got... just gut yours out....
turbo muffler doesnt mean what you think kenney. it accelerates the exhuast as it passes thru the muffler to help scavenge gasses SUPPOSEDLY

if I were you id spend the extra 40 bucks and go with a magnaflow or accelerator muffler.
OldBlue said:
1 e man, watch out! :boxing
thanks for the help- but got to keep the emissions legal. They got 160,000 miles on them and it's having a hard time breathing theres barly any exhaust coming out. Was going to go with a flowmaster but kinda pricey. It's my wife's daily driver and she said she wants it to sound like a v-8 with a good mellow sound. Way too quiet now.
if you want a flow, and cant afford it, autozone sells knock-off flows for 20 bucks a piece called cherry bombs! OF COURSE theyre not as loud and beefy, but probably better than what you got :shrug
I might try that. But I still am curious about this 4 wheel drive problem ckd the connectors good and clean. Now what?????:confused:
A glass pack sounds great on mine, and the high flow will help.

This will make you an expert on the T-case.
if you have a test light, test the wires at the END of the button, maybe its not getting a good current...
Re: Re: advice needed

cherokee237 said:
But I still am curious about this 4 wheel drive problem ckd the connectors good and clean. Now what?????
get a manual shift t-case
Hi flow cats are nice..that is what I run on mine,with a all 3" system and a flowmaster, sounds great and it passes emissions
KENNY said:
as for the turbo muffler - why get a turbo muffler if you have a non-turbo v8?
:lolup Now that's funnay!
Okay, I can be a little help here with the 4 Wheel drive. I have an 88 EB with push button as well. First, do you hear the acutators click? There are two sets of them. There are some behind the passanger side kick panel and then there are some attached to the transfer case. If they are not clicking then they need replacing. Also, I know for mine, if the lights on the dash don't come on, it's not in 4 wheel drive. So does the 3 Wheel drive light and/or the low range light come on, on your dash when you try to engage it? They are to the right of your steering column. If they are not coming on, then the transfer case isn't engaging. I went wheelin last weekend and at the head of the trail pushed the button, could hear the actuators clicking, but not like they usually do. And the lights wouldn't come on in the dash. I climbed under the truck and realized that the actuators behind the kick panel were clicking, but the one on the transfer case was stuck. I could put my hand on it and feel it try to engage but it wouldn't. (It helps to have someone pushing the button while you are under the truck). I got my hitch and gave the actuator on the transfer case some 'persuasive' taps while a buddy was hitting the button. It eventually engaged and didn't give me and trouble after that. But it would help to know if your actuators are clicking and/or if the lights are coming on. Good luck.

BTW as for me, I'm going to do 2 1/2 inch true duals. I don't believe 3 inch duals would give enough back pressure. But overall I've heard many times that a single 3 is the best option. Something about duals though.

PS I intend to, and recommend, when the oportunity presents itself, to switch to a manual shift transfer case.

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if the flowmaster is breaking the wallet to bad, check out summitracing or jegs online. you can order just what you need. they will have the cat you looking for too. i have a dynomax muffler. its a 3" straight thru design. kinda like a glass pack, but it has probably 10 to 12 times as much insulation. the whole thing is about 8" round and 22" long. sounds like a real muffler. real aggressive sound like a flowmaster but about 1/2 the price. its all welded too.
ok, I think the exhaust question's been answered already, but still not much said for the Tcase problem... How are you sure the motor is working? The reason I ask is, they're known for failing

Kenny, are you the same guy I was talking too earlier, about wristing a TTB arm?
push button 4x4 lights up- relays click- motor sounds like its turning. But when you push 4low the light flashes but thats it nothing else. This thing is driving me crazy!! I"ll take a manual transfer case any day. My 83 F-150 has warn hubs and a 208 transfer case never any problems...
Unless you've done this before, it's going to sound brutal, but take a small hammer, and while someone is in the driver seat working the switch on and off, tap around the motor... don't beat it, just tap it
davids78bronco said:
Kenny, are you the same guy I was talking too earlier, about wristing a TTB arm?
not to my knowledge :shrug sorry.
NP, I just figured the turbo muffler answer was right along the lines of the other guy's idea of wristing the TTB arm, and I thought you were the same guy
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