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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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The neighbor who’s driveway you plow ;) he is due to scratch your back now right?
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,530 Posts
Discussion Starter #122
Not yet. It was freakin' raining yesterday... in December, in the Inland PNW, FFS! I started a thread about early snow back in September. We've had one other little dump but it's all melted off and it's just wet and high 30's or cold, cold but dry. He'll owe me soon enough and I may be able to get some material for free but I go in with the worst expectations, as he's a great guy with PTSD issues and a bit miserly when it comes to his make-shift scrap yard. Typical hoarder behavior.
 

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Eric
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2,560 Posts
Getting excited to see some weld beads. At the welding schools with tight budgets (all of them) the guys just take 1/4" or 3/8" chunks of plate, cut it to a 3" or 4"x6" coupon and just start welding beads. One right below/on top of the next. When that's full, they just continue to stack another layer of beads on top of all those. Trigger time is all it takes to get good, once you have a solid concept of technique. Just weld, weld, weld, weld, weld.....

I'm happy for you Pepe`. Another "serious tool" for the collection. 👍
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,530 Posts
Discussion Starter #124
Me too. Gotta have me a good day soon and get my poop in a group. Spending a nice day in this damn wheelchair sucks normally. Having a new tool in the shop amplifies the frustration... but these are the ups and downs. C'mon... UPS! ;)
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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2,065 Posts
Not yet. It was freakin' raining yesterday... in December, in the Inland PNW, FFS! I started a thread about early snow back in September. We've had one other little dump but it's all melted off and it's just wet and high 30's or cold, cold but dry.
That's karma for talking trash a week or two ago about climate change. ;)
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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35,530 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
Jumped in the FSB today with the old man in tow. We ran by a few different places getting familiar with what's out there and who charges what, for what. Picked up a big spool of .030 solid wire (8 lbs., I think), a proper multi-use plyer and a jar of tip goop from an Industrial Weld supplier. That was a mistake. They clearly have better materials but everyone that shops there is buying off a business account, so nobody cares how much stuff costs, I guess. Not a single price sticker to be found in the whole place.

@silver70 - I checked HF and they didn't have the little pre-feed line cleaner. I checked at the industrial supply house and they had a bag of 3 or 4 for $10 but the guy basically told me, if I'm not running in a dirty place and I keep my stuff covered and clean, I really shouldn't need 'em. Said they're mostly for industrial places where dust, dirt and grime can clog up the machines and be a real problem. I'm too cheap to argue with a salesman telling me something's overkill. Maybe a future item, after I go into production. ;)

Then we headed back up to Harbor Freight for a cheap-ass MIG cart, a spare .030 small spool, a few wire brushes, some 90 deg. angle magnets and a small tool bag to keep everything together on the cart. I was going to get the cheapest cart they had but it's only rated for 100 lbs. and the Hobart weighs nearly that much by itself, so I went with the $99 cart instead because it's rated for 350 lbs., so it should hold the welder, bottle, cables and tools without issue. Even got 9 lbs of angle iron scrap for practice... for free. Smart counter guy knows how to get that return business... especially when I'm braggin' up my ignorance: "Got a new welder and I need some scrap to practice." He checks my handful of scrap, checks the weight, looks me over and says... "Merry Christmas" instead of, "That'll be $8".

Plan to go out later tonight and put the new cart together. Getting close to actually slinging steel. I also realized... I should be able to borrow more scrap metal from my neighbor. I can practice like mad and then just give the metal back to him when I'm done practicing and he can still get his scrapping prices. Hell... if anything, I'll be adding to the weight.
 

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Eric
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2,560 Posts
Yeah... I only go to welding supply shops as a last resort for common consumables, if I'm in a bind and need something close (there's a Vern Lewis six blocks from me), or need something special that I can't get anywhere else. They just don't have the purchasing power to provide good deals for the average consumer. The wire scrubbers I suggested were mostly intended as a solution to a problem that may, or may not, exist in your particular scenario. I first ran into them in at a previous shop I worked in and thought they were just a good idea for "preventative maintenance." Surely though, not mandatory; especially at that price.

Sounds like you're compiling quite the set-up. LOL!
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #128
I thought I was... and then I broke the Vulcan mig cart I picked up while putting it together. I just need a longer bolt as most of the connections were nut-zerts and 2 of 'em broke before the bolts even felt tight to me. Not a big deal but a delay until I get a replacement bolt that's another 1/4" long. Damn my habit of over-tightening.
Also realized the tool bag I picked up is too big to stick under the welder on the cart. Best laid plans and all that. If I have any other problems with the cart, I'll just grind and weld the bitch together, now that it's an option.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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11,573 Posts
I think I'm using the HF cart too. I know it was nothing special.

I'm a self taught welder. Just picked up to gun and started laying beads. Was okay at first, but the welds were not pretty at all.

Keep the wire speed down, and you'll be able to control it a bit better. Just keep laying little "c"s with the open part facing the direction you are welding.

Might be wise to have some WW before hand, to steady the hands lol.
 

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Eric
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.....If I have any other problems with the cart, I'll just grind and weld the bitch together, now that it's an option.
And you, sir, sound just like a fabricator. :ROFLMAO:

"This thing keeps coming apart. That's it... I'm done f***ing around..."

[drags welder out]
 

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1986 Ford Bronco, 351w with edelbrock aluminum top end and holly 600.
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2,140 Posts
Try to find something to rest your hand or arm against while your welding - that helps a lot with making a steady controlled bead. You can tell by the sound when you’ve got things burning correctly as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #133
Today I pulled that 400 engine I recently picked up for the CF block up onto the flatbed, broke my winch cable, repaired it and got the block moved out of the shop and settled on a tire behind the parts rig and tarp'd up for winter storage. Then I got the plow loaded up on the truck, moved into the shop, setup on the hoist to support it and disassembled the quad, a-arm and cylinders for inspection and repair. Next, I finished setting up the new mig with the gas tank, spooling, adjusting and decided I'd give it a few quick tests before calling it a day.

Would have gone much faster and easier if my Husky impact wrench wouldn't have decided to sh!t the bed and left me pulling apart those big plow assembly bolts by hand/back. Working on the cold, concrete floor sucks... but at least I've got a floor, instead of working in the snowy, wet, dirt.

I pulled out a piece of 1/4" scrap, angle iron and laid down a few test beads. Best I could manage on my first attempts were a bunch of 5" slugs and penetration was nearly undetectable on the flip side. I followed the recomended settings for 210A, 1/4" steel with .030 wire but maybe I need to crank the juice up a little more? Tonights attempts were nothing like a nice stack of dimes, I'll tell ya. I would have gotten a pic to share my embarrassment but I didn't have the camera and I was pretty beat.

I'm going to have to adjust my helmet better, so I can see my puddle and not just the point of contact. I'll get on the YouTube later and watch a few more instructional vids, now that I've played with it a little bit. Some of my gimpy limitations were coming into play pretty hard, so I might have to try and make any kind of temporary bench to weld on before I'll really be able to get that mig dialed in... or at least, that's my excuse tonight. ;)

Felt pretty cool though, despite my failures. I really need to get some more scrap metal and get a handle on this thing before I try to repair that busted A-arm.
 

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Eric
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2,560 Posts
If you were at the machine settings and had minimal penetration, try slowing your travel speed down. Are you welding on the flat part of the angle, or in the corner? I still use the "drawing circles" technique for most of my horizontal welds and overlap them by about 30- 40%. Making circles "mixes" the base material into the weld puddle adequately and ties the weld bead together consistently. It is the easiest technique to start with, as you only have to make the same exact motion over and over, and the movement allows your freeze lines to easily reveal any inconsistencies in technique while still producing a sound weld. Also, for aesthetic welds, I count while I make the circles. Literally, 1...2...3...4... , done to about a 1.5-2 second pause between coming to the bottom/top (depending where you started the count) of the next circle. You may not get just right on the first try, but all these "timing" techniques are simply reference points to modify your approach: slow down your count, speed up your count, larger/smaller circles, more overlap, etc. Keeping these points in the back of your mind will help form good habits leading to consistency, which is key to advancing quickly.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #135
I think a large part of my problem is being on my knees and elbows, on the concrete floor. Resting on my elbows to support myself leaning over the weld leaves little room for free or relaxed movement. I need to come up with some kind of table. I also need to adjust my helmet settings better. Once I can see the actual bead and not just the contact puddle, I'll have a much better idea what I'm laying down.
Spoke with my neighbor today. He's going to rummage around a little for me and see what he's got... or more likely, what he's willing to give up. He's got 3 fantastic tables just sitting out side, quietly rusting way. All much larger than I could use but he got twitchy when I asked about one of them. He gave me a wierd-ass framed c-channel slider kinda thing with framed legs to stand on, this afternoon. Good enough. I'll go back and haul it over tomorrow. Many angles and different thicknesses to practice on.

I'll keep those tips in mind as I go forward and do appreciate the benefit of your experience bud.
I snapped some pics of my mess with my lame camera phone. I may just need to turn down the wire speed and slow myself up a bit, as you say.

151519


151520


151521


And a crappy pic of the Hobart setup on the Harbor Freight cart, complete with GasMix tank and tangling toolbag.
151522
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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6,590 Posts
Whats your gas pressure regulated to, when you hit trigger on gun??
Also quick pass with a wire or flapper wheel, even on new "clean" steel will help a little.
That said I do believe those welds would hold stuff together fine and look decent
 

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Whats your gas pressure regulated to, when you hit trigger on gun??
Also quick pass with a wire or flapper wheel, even on new "clean" steel will help a little.
That said I do believe those welds would hold stuff together fine and look decent
I concur.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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1,146 Posts
Don’t worry about pretty just penetration! Looks like your melting the steel to me.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Discussion Starter #139 (Edited)
Whats your gas pressure regulated to, when you hit trigger on gun??
Also quick pass with a wire or flapper wheel, even on new "clean" steel will help a little.
That said I do believe those welds would hold stuff together fine and look decent
Pressure is regulated at 20, while the trigger is live. That's in accordance with the Hobart instructions for setting up the Arg/CO2 mix gas.

Appreciate the input gentleman. Beyond the adjustments I mention before, part of my problem may be that all my experience had been sheet metal, not thick steel so maybe I'm expecting better penetration than I really need? On the flip side of the welds, you can see the discoloration and a little metal flake but that's about it.

When I get to repairing the A-arm, would zapping a line down both sides be better to ensure the weld is bonding the crack completely through or could that weaken the surrounding metal too much? I was planning to weld it, grind it down flat and then zap a cover plate to stiffen it up more. Possibly even add a matching plate to the other side, that appears to be ok, so far.

I don't have a flap wheel yet. Just a very old, large, electric buffer/grinder with a hard, I wanna say... 8" disk. I have an air-disk cutter as well and the only other thing I have in my tools for cutting thick metal is my sawzall. Woefully low on metal working tools.
 

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Registered
1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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1,146 Posts
2 things I use regularly are:
A die grinder, with variety of attachments(both straight and a 90*)

A metal chop saw

I’d love to have:
Gravity band saw

Press brake

another cutting torch (mine got stolen out of my storage unit years ago)

but most of all

A plasma cutter, I used one of those and holly shit I fell in love.
 
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