[EzPc]

Hi all,

I came accross a 1997 F250 XL, 125k, auto, 5.8L standard cab. Now KBB says in a private sale it would be about $3500. This one has a dented door, dented rear tailgate, AC works, Class 5 [never heard of that but maybe sellere means Class 3] hitch, 2 brand new tires in the front. Seller says this is actually an F350, I suppose when I do a Car Fax it will clear that up or I can just do a VIN check.

Here is why I am posting.. There is a lifter nock on the drivers side. Seller says he had Ford Dealer check it out and it is a stuck lifter probably because the truck has not been driven regularly and had been sitting for a time. According to seller, Ford said it can be fixed for $250.

Asking price $2200 but I could pick it up for $1800 out of hand.


Question, anyone have any first hand experiance with a similar issue? How concerned should I be about this knock? I am hoping the seller will let me have my mechanic look it over before we can close the deal, will know later tonight. Anything else you guys would recommend checking?

Thanks :thumbup

 

[92Custom]

Have fun tearing that far into it to just get at a lifter....might as well just rebuild it real quick while you're in there.

 

[TheUnforgiven]

Have fun tearing that far into it to just get at a lifter....might as well just rebuild it real quick while you're in there.

rebuilds are never "real quick." besides, you don't have to yank the entire top end to do lifters. from what i understand, it's just the intakes and valve covers.

OP, i don't know. if you think it's worth it and you are confident in your skills to tear it apart then go for it. i would have it checked out by a trusted mechanic before you pull the trigger.

it would suck for it to end up being a rod knock.

 

[Mikey350]

A quick check for a rod knock is to pull the suspected plug wire while it is knocking. A rod knock will go away, a lifter will still make noise.

Good Luck

 

[EzPc]

A quick check for a rod knock is to pull the suspected plug wire while it is knocking. A rod knock will go away, a lifter will still make noise.

Good Luck

Thanks for that testing quick tip... will try that when I can.. if it is a lifter would a complete rebuild be the way to go in this tight economy we are all in....

 

[RichG]

Trust no one when buying a car from them. He can tell you it's not a knock, it's the engine fairies partying, doesn't make it true. Figure the expense of a complete rebuild and take that off the asking... and then if you buy it dumps some automatic transmission fluid in there and let it run for a bit, change it out and see if this knock goes away.

 

[Gene1219]

If it's a truck that you've been wanting, then go for it. If it turns out to be a bad engine, they can be replaced rather easily and cheap.

 

[EzPc]

It is a solid front axle, F250 or F350, decent shape and would be a good backup plow truck to my Bronco if need be. I am trying to figure if $1800 is a good deal or a bit much even though everything else about the truck seems to be in order at least on the surface. Still need to pull a carfax to see where it has been... so even if it needs an engine would $1800 be too much in general?

 

[kals1stride]

pics? i personally, have no need for anything over an F-150 so i would consider that a $1800 hassle, but if you have needs for the truck, then pending on the condition of the truck, i would consider this a NTB and $1800 easy to swallow price. besides thats a roller 351w. so rebuilding that engine would be well worth it IMO. otherwise check out craigslist in your area, and see what other Ford trucks are out there between 1500-2500 you'll come up with your own answer real quick.

 

[TheUnforgiven]

i would not rebuild an engine because of a bad lifter. that's a waste of money.

if you pick it up, and diagnose it is just a lifter, replace all the lifters and then drive it.

 

[Ewgoetz]

Worse case if its more than a lifter you can always part it out. I was surfin ebay earlier today and someone in AL was selling a pair of axles(front and back) for $1999 +shiping I think.

 

[kals1stride]

i would not rebuild an engine because of a bad lifter. that's a waste of money.

if you pick it up, and diagnose it is just a lifter, replace all the lifters and then drive it.

after i read this post i re-read my post, not sure if you were referring to my post. but even if so, i think i was a bit confusing to myself, i didnt mean to rebuild the engine when he bought the truck, just that down the road when it calls for it, will be a great motor to rebuild. of course the sticky lifter isnt as life threatening as a knock from the rods. but there is an additive to help a sticky lifter. but i have always made it a practice to replace gaskets if im getting into the engine, especially if i see the block is covered in oil. again, i rec. Rockauto.com for any of the parts you may need.

 

[wyoranch]

And I don't know why some people claim their 3/4 tons are 1 tons. Guess they think it's worth more, which in this case would probably be true. Easiest way is to look at the front axle. True straight axle=1 ton. TTB =3/4 ton