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Ive done my research and searched this and other forums but Im having trouble finding the right belt here.
I took the great info from this thread and bought a belt for a 03 GMC Envoy with a 4.2l engine (aka a Dayco 915K6) and just tried installing it on my truck, it seems to be a little to short. Rereading that topic I see he mentioned its "351W, with air conditioning, with the single tensioner and serpentine belt setup." I didnt know there was 1 style with a single tensioner and another with 2, and looking at mine it looked like a single tensioner. Now that I've had problems I looked up the engine routing for a single tensioner and it looks different than mine.
Heres a single-


Heres how mine looks-


Im wondering if anyone else with this belt set up has removed the air pump and what belt they used. Any info is useful, from a part number to a vehicle the new belt would fit, even the required new belt length. thanks guys and Merry Christmas.
 

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A broke kid with a bronco
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I have that setup. I ran a mustang 302 smog bypass pulley and a shorter belt. I also have a smaller alt pulley. I may have the belt size I used in my truck. I have to check.

Btw a 302 mustang smog bypass pulley will work with a few washers on the top bolt. I ordered mine from summit racing.

Btw I know it's impossible to run a shorter belt. You have to run the pulley.
 

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yo,
Removal, Belt in a 95 5.8; "... I have a 351, so i know mine is a little different. but my stock belt was 93.5 inches. when i took off the smog pump, i needed a belt 2 inches shorter. 91.5. thats the stock sized belt for a 90 bronco with a 302. so says the autparts store. if yours is like mine, and you need to lose two inches, try a belt 2 inchs smaller than stock. all my accesorys are placed like in the diagrame fireguy just posted. i also beleive there was a thread about this not to long ago, and people were listing part numbers..."
Source: GearHead at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6103&highlight=smog+pump
 

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Ive done my research and searched this and other forums but Im having trouble finding the right belt here.
I took the great info from this thread and bought a belt for a 03 GMC Envoy with a 4.2l engine (aka a Dayco 915K6) and just tried installing it on my truck, it seems to be a little to short. Rereading that topic I see he mentioned its "351W, with air conditioning, with the single tensioner and serpentine belt setup." I didnt know there was 1 style with a single tensioner and another with 2, and looking at mine it looked like a single tensioner. Now that I've had problems I looked up the engine routing for a single tensioner and it looks different than mine.
Heres a single-


Heres how mine looks-


Im wondering if anyone else with this belt set up has removed the air pump and what belt they used. Any info is useful, from a part number to a vehicle the new belt would fit, even the required new belt length. thanks guys and Merry Christmas.
I have the same setup you have and am running into the same problem.. I tried a 94.5" belt and it fits but the tensioner is maxed and applies no tension at all , I also tried a 94" belt and couldnt get it close to going on , even if I tried to pry it which I didnt you would destroy the belt before you got it on. So now Im trying to figure out what else I can do ? Any suggestions ? Dont know if there is a belt size inbetween the two Ive tried or if I should get the eliminator kit from summit. Does the kit work on a 5.8
 

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belt k060938 - 94.5" for 5.8 on 95

I just completed an air pump removal on my 95 with 5.8. I purchased ten different belts and tried all of them until I found the one that worked. I ended up using a Master Pro belt from O'reilley's - part no K060938 - and it has worked fine. The outside of the package states that it is a 94-1/2" OC.

One thing that I kept running into was that different manufacturers measure their belts differently. Some of them measure inside diameter and some measure outside diameter. It does not seem like there would be that much difference, but I think it works out to be a 1/4" difference between the two, and it probably all goes back to the thickness of the belt.

One thing I did notice doing the air pump delete was that the tensioner is no longer in the correct position to keep tension on the belt so it rides fully cranked at all times. This is because when the air pump is installed it is far to the left of the tensioner and when you delete it it is coming from the right hand side and is not at the appropriate angle.

When I could not get the next shorter belt (shorter than 94.5) on I was stuck with the 94.5 and thought I would have some issues as the belt did not seem tight enough. But now that I have run it for a couple of weeks I believe the tension will be fine. If I do run into issues or the belt stretches I am resigned to running some shims under the a/c compressor or the alternator to make it work. And by shims I mean washers!

Good Luck!
:beer
 

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yo,
Removal, Belt in a 95 5.8; "... I have a 351, so i know mine is a little different. but my stock belt was 93.5 inches. when i took off the smog pump, i needed a belt 2 inches shorter. 91.5. thats the stock sized belt for a 90 bronco with a 302. so says the autparts store. if yours is like mine, and you need to lose two inches, try a belt 2 inchs smaller than stock. all my accesorys are placed like in the diagrame fireguy just posted. i also beleive there was a thread about this not to long ago, and people were listing part numbers..."
Source: GearHead at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6103&highlight=smog+pump
Keep in mind that this applied to my 90 bronco with a 351 that I had.

The 95 I currently have is routed like the original poster in this thread has mentioned. I do not know what belt will be needed if the smog pump is removed. I too would like to know since I just pulled the motor outta my bronco today and the pump howls pretty bad.
 

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I just completed an air pump removal on my 95 with 5.8. I purchased ten different belts and tried all of them until I found the one that worked. I ended up using a Master Pro belt from O'reilley's - part no K060938 - and it has worked fine. The outside of the package states that it is a 94-1/2" OC.

One thing that I kept running into was that different manufacturers measure their belts differently. Some of them measure inside diameter and some measure outside diameter. It does not seem like there would be that much difference, but I think it works out to be a 1/4" difference between the two, and it probably all goes back to the thickness of the belt.

One thing I did notice doing the air pump delete was that the tensioner is no longer in the correct position to keep tension on the belt so it rides fully cranked at all times. This is because when the air pump is installed it is far to the left of the tensioner and when you delete it it is coming from the right hand side and is not at the appropriate angle.

When I could not get the next shorter belt (shorter than 94.5) on I was stuck with the 94.5 and thought I would have some issues as the belt did not seem tight enough. But now that I have run it for a couple of weeks I believe the tension will be fine. If I do run into issues or the belt stretches I am resigned to running some shims under the a/c compressor or the alternator to make it work. And by shims I mean washers!

Good Luck!
:beer
Thanks !! Im having the same issue with the 94.5" belt it fits on but just isnt tight enough considering I can easily slid it off the water pump pulley. I know if I start it its probably going to just throw the belt off. The tensioner is maxed out and is pretty much acting like a idler pulley. So I was cross referencing belts to find how much of a difference there is . The Dayco #5060945 that I have now has a 95.16" OC and length of 94.5" , the Belt you are talking about crosses over to a Dayco #5060937 and has a 94.36" OC and Length of 93.7". I also tried a Dayco #5060940 yesterday that has a 94.75" OC and Length of 94.09" and that one I couldnt get on my pulley's to even try it. Im almost thinking I should try the 94" again and see if I can get it on there without detroying it , if I can then the tensioner should be able to work and not sit maxed out. Thats todays project :banghead
 

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Problem solved atleast temporarily , I ended up using the 94.5" belt and went and got some washers and new bolts and spaced my A/C delete up about a half inch and its good for now atleast until I can get the Air Pump Delete kit from Summit in a few weeks.
 

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did you delete all of your smog equipment after taking off the AIR pump?

I had numerous leaks on my system and a lot of vacuum line issues as well. I took off my air pump, air hoses, crossover tube, air tube to the exhaust system behind the first cat, removed EGR, TAB, TAD and EVR and the vacuum canister. I purchased the thermactor plugs, exhaust manifold plug, EGR eliminator and eliminator resistors from RJMinjection.

I replaced all of the vacuum hoses with regular rubber vacuum line since my factory lines were broken up. This helped my idle and makes the truck run a lot smoother.

I am getting a check engine light after the truck warms up, but have not pulled the code yet. I believe on my 95 5.8 even after putting in the eliminator resistors you can still get a code telling you that the EGR is not functioning correctly.

I am going to purchase a ford code puller from O'reilley's for about $31.00 and pull the code to see what I have going on.

I can report that the exhaust leaks are all cleared up now, it runs better, and I have room enough to put in a second battery for the future winch install.

:D
 

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The guy I got the truck from before hand pulled everything off and just left the pump itself on the truck. Im going to replace a bunch of vacuum lines over the next week or so and clean things up under the hood,as well as put in a second battery since my winch is hard on just one.

I'll keep you posted ;)
 

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'88 XLT. 2" lift, 3G, Saginaw Pump, Headers, High flow 3" cat, 3" exhaust, 6 litre tune, K&N
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Gutting a pump?

Has anyone tried just gutting the air pump so it can't compress air and leaving it on? Is this easily possible?

If it is not compressing anything it should have the same power draw equivalent as a air pump delete kit.
 

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I found a post concerning gutting of the air pump in the archive section:


http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-14155.html

In fact there seems to be quite a few posts about this subject. Do a search for "gut air pump" and you will see what I mean.

It seems like it is feasible, although for myself I really preferred to do a full removal. I drive right by the parts store each day so I would try a belt and take it back the next day if it was not the correct size.

I am gutting the cat next as there is a consensus that the cat will melt and clog when the fresh air is not being sent to it. Time to break out the cutoff wheel and welder.

Once the cat is gutted I plan to take it to the exhaust shop and have a new pipe installed after the cat back to the muffler. I do not know why, but the stock exhaust pipe on my truck is too close to the transmission and has rubbed against a bolt on the side of the tranny for so long that it has almost knocked the edges off of the bolt.

I took it to the exhaust shop last month and asked them to replace the pipe, but the tech, took a pry bar and started yanking on the transmission and told me that my tranny mount was wore and allowing the torque of the motor to twist the whole assembly until it came into contact with the bolt. I have now replaced the mount and scooted everything as far as I can away from the pipe and I am still getting contact.

ahh.. just another thing on my to do list!

:haha
 

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1994 Bronco XLT 5.8L
I bought a smaller belt to bypass my smog pump. Same belt path as the bottom picture in the first post. I got it at O'Reilly's, it is a Master Pro K060942; under that is says 6K942. It is 13/16" X 94 3/4" OC (Outside Circumference). My A.I.R. system had a leak in it and it was making all kinds of noise between shifts, at idle, just all the time. Starting the engine now and it is so quiet it can't believe it. It runs just fine, belt doesn't slip, no issues so far. I searched everywhere for a forum on this but ended up just measuring mine, buying 4 different belts and kept the one that fit the best. I hope I saved someone some time.
 

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I'm going to do mine this weekend. I guess all I need to do with the air tube is clogg it temporarily until my headers are installed.
 

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'88 XLT. 2" lift, 3G, Saginaw Pump, Headers, High flow 3" cat, 3" exhaust, 6 litre tune, K&N
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:histerica

See picture 2:

Who would bypass the power steering? But keep the A/C? I guess you'd need the A/C for all the sweat pouring off you trying to turn the steering wheel w/o power steering.
 
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