Alignment
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980 Posts
I am finding out that it's best to let a good alignment shop take a look. They have the equipment PROPERLY align the TTB axle and if you get a good one they have doen many and have the knowledge that just by looking under the truck they can determine what you need. I had a good shop look at mine and he told me the bushings were just fine and he could align it back to spec with no problems. I hope.....
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488 Posts
If it still has the original camber bushing in there you can take off the castle nut and read the degree value off the top of the bushing. Some of the non-adjustable aftermarket bushings have the degree value on the bottom.
Like the others have mentioned, you probably should take it to a competent shop to get the alignment done. I have the Moog K80108 adjustable bushings in mine and they have worked good so far.
Like the others have mentioned, you probably should take it to a competent shop to get the alignment done. I have the Moog K80108 adjustable bushings in mine and they have worked good so far.
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15,435 Posts
If you have any mods Never go to Firestone!
Find you a mom and pop shop and get them to do it for you.
Thanks for the information. I am just finishing a college level course (ASE qualified) for Front end, including alignment, so I am looking to do it myself. Alot more affordable that way. State of the art Hunter Rack, code link and all. Rack is less than 1 year old.
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26,998 Posts
yo,
Adjustment, Caster & Camber in 94 Bronco F150-250 4X4 from 1994 Body/Chassis Service Manual page 04-00-13; "...1. take alignment measurements 2. raise, take wheels off 3. remove upper ball joint pin & nut 4. loosen lower ball joint nut to end of stud 5. strike inside of spindle near upper & lower BJ's to break loose spindle from BJ's 6. remove adjuster, use Pit arm puller if needed. 7. install replacement adjuster -to increase camber point arrow on adjuster outboard -to decrease camber point arrow on adjuster inboard Note: excessive spindle turning efforts, causing poor steering, returnability, may result if the fastener tightening sequence described in steps 8,9 and 11 are not followed exactly 8. remove lower BJ nut apply Loctite 242 9. partially tighten nut to 40 ft lbs 10. tighten upper BJ nut to 85-100 ft lbs, install cotter pin 11. finish lower BJ nut to 95-100 ft lbs 12. put wheels back on, put truck back on ground 13. check camber, adjust toe Also on pages 04-00-11 and 04-00-12: -production adjusters have the amounts of caster and camber stamped on the tops -first number is caster, second camber (in degrees) if the adjuster is installed on right side of truck -if adjuster installed on left side of truck, the caster number is the opposite sign of the number shown. For example. positive amount in right side is negative when used on left side of truck, and vice versa. Note: the assembly plant sometimes builds trucks w/adjusters that are not zero-degree type to control alignment. The chart shows the alignment changes that will occur if the truck was originally built with zero-degree adjusters. Always check to which adjuster has been installed and its position before making changes. That's from the dealer manual, what I take on its is that the factory adjusters have some degree of adjustment (very little) and you don't have to take the spindle/axle completely apart to r&r adjusters or do an alignment..."
Source: by Ford via ROCKOBRONCO at FSB
Camber Bushing, Fully Adjustable Offset Installation, Diagrams & Specifications, Ford (Ingalls 53200) "Fully Adjustable Camber/Caster Bushing; Adjustment range of +3/4° to +2-3/4° Order 1 per wheel..."
Source: by Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.
Camber Bushing, Fully Adjustable Offset Installation, Diagrams & Specifications, Ford OE Style #23109 Offsets from 0° to 2-3/4° for: 1996-1980 Ford Bronco, 1996-1980 Ford F-150 4WD, 1996-1980 Ford F-250 4WD, 1987-1980 Ford F-350 4W, D2004-1999 Ford F-450 Super Duty RWD, 2004-1999 Ford F-550 Super Duty RWD
Source: by Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.
Alignment Settings TSB 93-23-24 for 94 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Explorer & Ranger
Source: by Ford via Chilton
Adjustment, Caster & Camber in 94 Bronco F150-250 4X4 from 1994 Body/Chassis Service Manual page 04-00-13; "...1. take alignment measurements 2. raise, take wheels off 3. remove upper ball joint pin & nut 4. loosen lower ball joint nut to end of stud 5. strike inside of spindle near upper & lower BJ's to break loose spindle from BJ's 6. remove adjuster, use Pit arm puller if needed. 7. install replacement adjuster -to increase camber point arrow on adjuster outboard -to decrease camber point arrow on adjuster inboard Note: excessive spindle turning efforts, causing poor steering, returnability, may result if the fastener tightening sequence described in steps 8,9 and 11 are not followed exactly 8. remove lower BJ nut apply Loctite 242 9. partially tighten nut to 40 ft lbs 10. tighten upper BJ nut to 85-100 ft lbs, install cotter pin 11. finish lower BJ nut to 95-100 ft lbs 12. put wheels back on, put truck back on ground 13. check camber, adjust toe Also on pages 04-00-11 and 04-00-12: -production adjusters have the amounts of caster and camber stamped on the tops -first number is caster, second camber (in degrees) if the adjuster is installed on right side of truck -if adjuster installed on left side of truck, the caster number is the opposite sign of the number shown. For example. positive amount in right side is negative when used on left side of truck, and vice versa. Note: the assembly plant sometimes builds trucks w/adjusters that are not zero-degree type to control alignment. The chart shows the alignment changes that will occur if the truck was originally built with zero-degree adjusters. Always check to which adjuster has been installed and its position before making changes. That's from the dealer manual, what I take on its is that the factory adjusters have some degree of adjustment (very little) and you don't have to take the spindle/axle completely apart to r&r adjusters or do an alignment..."
Source: by Ford via ROCKOBRONCO at FSB
Camber Bushing, Fully Adjustable Offset Installation, Diagrams & Specifications, Ford (Ingalls 53200) "Fully Adjustable Camber/Caster Bushing; Adjustment range of +3/4° to +2-3/4° Order 1 per wheel..."
Source: by Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.
Camber Bushing, Fully Adjustable Offset Installation, Diagrams & Specifications, Ford OE Style #23109 Offsets from 0° to 2-3/4° for: 1996-1980 Ford Bronco, 1996-1980 Ford F-150 4WD, 1996-1980 Ford F-250 4WD, 1987-1980 Ford F-350 4W, D2004-1999 Ford F-450 Super Duty RWD, 2004-1999 Ford F-550 Super Duty RWD
Source: by Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.
Alignment Settings TSB 93-23-24 for 94 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Explorer & Ranger
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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4,529 Posts
I got the lifetime alignment and mods and I have had no issues.... now maybe if i had a sas than there would be no point to going to firestone and id want to find a mom and pop shop.
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317 Posts
Medic, Since you have access to a rack, it should be easy.
Put the truck on the rack and get your baseline reading for camber. Stock spec is 0.25 degrees positive. If yours is different, either buy the exact bushing you need for each side or buy the 0-2.75 degree adjustable bushings (best idea, it allows you to experiment).
If you buy the adjustable bushings, they will adjust camber and caster based on a matrix of settings. Set the camber to 0.25 positive and the caster to 3 to 6 degrees with .5 cross caster if you are going for stock numbers. I'd go with setting the camber at 0.25 and dial in max caster available on you adjustable bushings, then adjust the cross caster to give you the best road manners for your local roads (ex. steering not to heavy, not too twitchy, truck runs straight with no hands on the steering wheel, confidence inspiring feel). Be sure to set toe at 0.06 degrees in after each adjustment.
If the return to center is too strong or too weak, adjust caster accordingly, while maintaining the 0.25 camber and re-setting toe after each adjustment.
Put the truck on the rack and get your baseline reading for camber. Stock spec is 0.25 degrees positive. If yours is different, either buy the exact bushing you need for each side or buy the 0-2.75 degree adjustable bushings (best idea, it allows you to experiment).
If you buy the adjustable bushings, they will adjust camber and caster based on a matrix of settings. Set the camber to 0.25 positive and the caster to 3 to 6 degrees with .5 cross caster if you are going for stock numbers. I'd go with setting the camber at 0.25 and dial in max caster available on you adjustable bushings, then adjust the cross caster to give you the best road manners for your local roads (ex. steering not to heavy, not too twitchy, truck runs straight with no hands on the steering wheel, confidence inspiring feel). Be sure to set toe at 0.06 degrees in after each adjustment.
If the return to center is too strong or too weak, adjust caster accordingly, while maintaining the 0.25 camber and re-setting toe after each adjustment.
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4,068 Posts
These guys are giving you good advice. But you should know that the design of the TTB is to improve ride quality. It can never really be aligned "perfect". TTB is all about compromize when it comes to alignment. I use to take my 88' Bronco to the alignment shop at the drop of a hat. Now I do my own alignments (with some what crude tools) on my 90' and the results are the same. You should be able to stop any uneven tire wear and make it track relativelly straight down the road. We aint driving no Vettes.
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