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Discussion Starter #1
What in the world does this amp light that just popped on mean? I changed out my distributor cap for an msd cap and it popped on.

Thinking the cap might be the issue I put the old one back on but still it stays lit.

Battery indicator is reading about 3/4 full and the battery light is not on, just the one in the lower left that says amp.

Don't have owners manual handy and can't find it in Haybes manual or a Google search.


Alternator going bad maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
lol doubt it since its not hooked up!

So looks like I may be in the market for a new alternator eh. Maybe I'll bump it up to a 130 amp or something
 

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Okay so something I noticed; once the car is up and running the light goes out.

But
Then it will return, only blinking.

It blinks twice, then blinks three times. It then pauses and it will repeat this cycle.

Is this telling me a code or something?
 

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yo,
I just recovered from my brain fog and wonder if you're see the Airbag warning Light or Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) warning Light ?

96 Bronco Owners Guide by Hiller Ford see page 74
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here ya go guys. The farther away picture is mid fade on it's flash cycle so that's why its' like that:




 

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I could be wrong but yeah I think that's the alternator light indicating a failure of the alternator in progress....
 

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I could be wrong but yeah I think that's the alternator light indicating a failure of the alternator in progress....


That's what I thought too but coupled with what some of these guys are saying and some stuff I've read it looks like maybe that's supposed to be where the airbag light is?

Maybe my bezel was swapped at some point? I'm confused now. :duh
 

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That's what I thought too but coupled with what some of these guys are saying and some stuff I've read it looks like maybe that's supposed to be where the airbag light is?

Maybe my bezel was swapped at some point? I'm confused now. :duh
Did a quick Google on idiot light icons and found this one:

http://dashboardsymbols.com/2010/09/129/

Definitely the charging system. You can swing by an Advanced Auto Parts or Autozone and they can put a tester on the truck to check the battery and the alternator. Should be able to do it free of charge. My money is on the alternator. Things like this happen, just yesterday my AIR smog pump on my F150 seized. Almost had a heart attach when they wanted $250 for a new one at my local Advanced Auto and Autozone. Found one on Amazon.com for $95 with free shipping so its just a part of owning our types of trucks. :rockon
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I tell you what it's going to my buddy's place early this week for the redhead steering box swap so I may just get him to take a look at it. If it's an amp I'll buy it online and go up to a 130 watt amp.

If my bezel has been swapped at some point then it's probably the clock spring or something. But the clock spring was just replaced before I bought it sooooo....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
By the way I've read if it was the clock spring I wouldn't have a horn; my horn definitely works.

So I'm with you at this point EzPc, I'm thinking alternator. Probably just order a new alt and run new cables while I'm at it.
 

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Your "amp" light is where the airbag light should be.
the blinking is an airbag code.
So someone probably swapped the dash bezel with a pre 94 at some point.

By what you described looks like you are getting a code 23, which I believe is a failure in your control module board or a burnt thermal fuse which is on said board.
There is a small blue box under your dash, remove it, open it up and inspect the board.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Your "amp" light is where the airbag light should be.
the blinking is an airbag code.
So someone probably swapped the dash bezel with a pre 94 at some point


Okay so I just went out there and got behind the dash a little and found a black connector that plugged into the bottom port of a tealish color box had worked loose. I snapped it back in, went to start the truck up, and the blinking "amp" light was now gone.

What did I just fix lol?

I think you're right about the pre 94 bezel. I'll need to swap that back to a 94 at some point. I like having the actual indicators where they're supposed to be!


Other than the amp / airbag warning light swap are there any other major differences in the pre 94? I guess this came out of a 93 or something?
 

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Okay so I just went out there and got behind the dash a little and found a black connector that plugged into the bottom port of a tealish color box had worked loose. I snapped it back in, went to start the truck up, and the blinking "amp" light was now gone.

What did I just fix lol?

I think you're right about the pre 94 bezel. I'll need to swap that back to a 94 at some point. I like having the actual indicators where they're supposed to be!
.

The blue box is a module that monitors the airbag system.
Wierd that the plug just fell out, they are usually pretty tight/snug.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
.

The blue box is a module that monitors the airbag system.
Wierd that the plug just fell out, they are usually pretty tight/snug.


There was a guy messing with radio wiring trying to get my radio to work the other day and he was playing around in that area. I don't think it fell out so much as got jostled / jiggled / slightly removed whatever. It was just not completely in.

So I guess that solves the problem.


Thanks everyone! By narrowing down what the actual light was supposed to be (rather than waht it appeared to be) I was able to solve it really quickly.
 

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yo
Air Bag t Code 23, Rear Air Bag Sensor and Bracket Assembly (also called the RH Safing Sensor);

Located at the base of the RH (passenger side) B Pillar by Tool38 (Bronc)

Battery Feed Circuit Open; Battery voltage is provided at diagnostic monitor pin 15 (Circuit 611 W/O) at all times. However, voltage at pin 15 can be as high as 19 volts (as provided by the back up power supply) when the ignition switch is in the ON position and the backup power supply in the diagnostic monitor is charged up. Circuit 612 (P/O) is connected to Circuit 611 (W/O) inside the safing sensor. Therefore, the voltage at pin 23 (Circuit 612 P/O) should be the same as the voltage at pin 15 at all times. The diagnostic monitor compares the voltage available at pins 15 and 23. If the voltage at pin 23 is low, the diagnostic monitor will flash out code 23 to indicate an open between these two circuits. Low voltage at pin 23 can be caused by:An open circuit in the wiring harness in either Circuit 611 (W/O) or 612 (P/O). An open circuit inside the safing sensor across the Circuit 611 (W/O) and Circuit 612 (P/O) wires. miesk5 Note; this was posted in a Visitor Message & may not be available to view without registering at FSB
Source: by Ford via miesk5


Wiring Diagrams in 94 Bronco
 
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