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September 15 FOTM
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Discussion Starter #1
im pulling the current 351 out tomorrow for a full rebuild, so i figured i would start a build thread.
My dad bought this truck about 3-4 years ago with 40,000 miles. it was all stock except from the new pacer wheels and new 33" wild country mud tires. we paid 5,500!

this is the oldest picture i have, from about a year after we bought it.
alittle bit after I got my learners permit. (2 years ago) the bronco would have been to small for what we needed so a diesel excursion replaced it and i got the bronco.


i did a bunch of small stuff to it until last october when i got a solid axle put it. it rides and handles so much better then before. the ride is smother and there is less body roll.

now I'm going to rebuild the engine since the oil burning is getting alot worse. i bought all sealed power parts for the insides, and i have gt40 heads to put on.


 

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Looking good so far. What other plans do you have for it?
 

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September 15 FOTM
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Discussion Starter #5
Looking good so far. What other plans do you have for it?
I want to improve the breaks. they are really bad now. shackle flip in the back, maybe a locker in the front. i want subs and a new head unit to. and maybe on board air too.

the cylinders still have the crosshatching but all the rings were gone. you can see it was burnt passed all the rings and on to the cylinder.
 

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I want to improve the breaks. they are really bad now. shackle flip in the back, maybe a locker in the front. i want subs and a new head unit to. and maybe on board air too.

the cylinders still have the crosshatching but all the rings were gone. you can see it was burnt passed all the rings and on to the cylinder.
Provided they're in good working order and your not on rediclously large tires the stock breaks should be fine. Have you gone through them at all? Where are the pictures?
 

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Looking good. I have the same truck with 160K + on the clock. I will be following this closely as I'm about to tear into mine soon. Looking forward to seeing your results and seeing what kind of time and money it will cost me. Keep up the good work.
 

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Unless your running insanely huge tires, the stock brakes should be fine. If they're weak, you may need new pads and to bleed the brake lines. Also, check your master cylinder and vacuum booster. See if there are any signs of leaks, either brake fluid or vacuum leaks. The brake fluid leak would show up as rusting below the MC on the booster. The vacuum leak would require a vacuum tester and just check to see if it holds vacuum. Either way, if you want to improve the brakes, the simplest method is to upgrade to an F350 booster/MC combo. I did for my 91' and love how it brakes now. Its a simple swap. Unbolt the old MC/booster and bolt in the "new" set. Really simple. Check out my build thread to see how I did it.
 

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September 15 FOTM
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1,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Provided they're in good working order and your not on rediclously large tires the stock breaks should be fine. Have you gone through them at all? Where are the pictures?


Unless your running insanely huge tires, the stock brakes should be fine. If they're weak, you may need new pads and to bleed the brake lines. Also, check your master cylinder and vacuum booster. See if there are any signs of leaks, either brake fluid or vacuum leaks. The brake fluid leak would show up as rusting below the MC on the booster. The vacuum leak would require a vacuum tester and just check to see if it holds vacuum. Either way, if you want to improve the brakes, the simplest method is to upgrade to an F350 booster/MC combo. I did for my 91' and love how it brakes now. Its a simple swap. Unbolt the old MC/booster and bolt in the "new" set. Really simple. Check out my build thread to see how I did it.
i didnt get pictures, my phone has terrible detail.
i have 33" duratracs so not to big. but i also have a solid axle from a 70's truck. i was thinking about the bigger booster and thunderbird calipers
 

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September 15 FOTM
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1,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
The machine shop total was about 1,100$ but he lowered it to 760$


Still have to finish the other valve cover and upper intake.

When should I change the oil for the break in? I forgot to ask the machine shop and they are closes till Monday.
 

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Change the oil after 30 minutes of initial break in, I like to change again at between 250-500 miles and again at 1000 miles. Also it is advisable to add a break in additive with zinc to the break in oil at a minimum, I will be adding it to every oil change in mine but it is not a daily driver.
 

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September 15 FOTM
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1,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
ok, so the final cost for the rebuild is:
$383 for the gasket kit paint, pistons, oil pump and bearings.
$83 for new fluids and plugs
$100 bolts thermostat motor mounts and fan clutch
$760 for all machine shop work
$20 new belt
$260 for gt40heads and machine shop work on them
$20 injector rebuild kit but free injectors

total $1,626
I might be missing some stuff but thats about the final cost for my stock rebuild
 

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September 15 FOTM
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1,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
So new coolant thermostat and fan clutch. My temp gauge is staying a lot lower then usual. Its around the n. It used to be around the m. I can't tell if the sensor us bad or if its just running cooler. Should those lower the temp?
 

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So new coolant thermostat and fan clutch. My temp gauge is staying a lot lower then usual. Its around the n. It used to be around the m. I can't tell if the sensor us bad or if its just running cooler. Should those lower the temp?
What temperature thermostat is in it? Your fan clutch is probably running the fan more than the old one was. I have a Hayden unit on mine and it has a noticable roar at startup that the old one didn't but that shouldn't lower the temperature.
 

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Just a note for next time. Your 95 has a roller engine. It requires no zinc additive or break in oil, no special break in procedure. The only thing you do is do typical city stop and go driving to seat the rings. My mechanic always says, drive it the way your going to drive it from the git go. Nothing special on roller motors.

As far as thermostat goes, I always stick with the 195°.
 

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September 15 FOTM
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1,484 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Just a note for next time. Your 95 has a roller engine. It requires no zinc additive or break in oil, no special break in procedure. The only thing you do is do typical city stop and go driving to seat the rings. My mechanic always says, drive it the way your going to drive it from the git go. Nothing special on roller motors.

As far as thermostat goes, I always stick with the 195°.
I just used the oil the machine shop told me. 5w30 regular oil.
I probably should have Google what thermostat to get. I was in a rush and that the one I was told to get.
 

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I just used the oil the machine shop told me. 5w30 regular oil.
I probably should have Google what thermostat to get. I was in a rush and that the one I was told to get.
Yeah you need a 195* thermostat.
 
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