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hi champ. am keen to see how the swap goes as i am at the start of donig the same swap. I am in Austraila so sourcing parts and engines is alot harder. Any adive as to were to look would be great. Also i want to get a disc brake rear end for my truck. It is an 83 bronco. Any ideas?
 

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Just picked up the main pieces of my suspension, wheels and tires, and some other things.

BMF sota 20x10 Stealth finish and Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ in 35x12.5

PMF RSK made an inch wider for the Super Duty axles


Sky Hangers


Compared to stock F250


Fuel Bowl



I'm hoping to have the suspension all together this weekend and most of the welding done. I picked up some V-code springs for the RSK
 

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Howdy howdy howdy!
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I'm really glad to see this project still moving along. Its nice to see a diesel build done right without any hacking/slicing.

With the performance mods that bronco is really gonna boogy, you'll have to get us some stats when its built. :thumbup

Great job though man! Keep up the great work! :beer
 

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Man that is one hell of a project but I'm sure it will be more than worth the effort when it's done. Keep up the good work
 

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Thanks guys, I'm really looking forward to having the bronco running its moving along a slower than anticipated. Ended up box lining the valve covers Ford Grabber blue and put a few more items back on the engine.




I'm still waiting for a diff cover and some parts to arrive for the rear so I can get the diff painted (Aston Martin Tungsten). After that's done I want to put the engine/trans/transfer case in and wire it up and try running it. I'm having a hard time figuring out the bare minimum that needs to be hooked up before I can try starting the engine again?
 

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Mate, this looks great!! Have considered a similar conversion myself, but the availability of parts in here in oz is terrible. Good luck with the rest of the build.
 

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Finally got the turbo painted without the paint reacting and put it on. Used the chevy exhaust donuts on the up-pipes with nickel anti-seize.




POR 15'd some misc parts brake and steering parts. Took most of the rust and undercoating off the rear axle and POR 15'd it, then epoxy primer, Aston Martin Tungsten followed by clear. The finish isn't perfect since the axle housing was pitted with rust but it will look good under the truck from 10 feet away. I also swapped the speed sensors from the Early 99 axle with the 97 (97 on the right); I'm not sure if I needed to do this but figured I should if I am reusing most of the 97's electronics. The photos make the axle look more yellow than it is since I am using a garage-in-a-box as a paint booth








Also top-coated the frame with Northstar chassis black. Depending on how long it takes to clean up and paint the transmission and transfer case, I'm hoping to have the axles back under the frame and the engine, trans, and t-case bolted back in this coming weekend.
 

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Haha thanks

Well the engine is back in, hopefully for the last time. Transmission is bolted up but not painted with the E4OD crossmember from the 97 installed. Axles are also back under. The front is left unpainted because I will have to do some work on the hubs, steering, and the track bar mounting location may have to be changed. I am waiting until the body is back on and all the weight is back over the front axle so I can see where the track bar will have to go and the angle. I have a feeling the v code front springs will be too stiff and may have to be swapped out but time will tell.

Crappy night pictures. The pinion angle on the rear needs to be adjusted but the old bronco blocks are the only blocks I have that fit with the U-bolts I have.





 

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Discussion Starter #56
The engine is duplicolor metalcast. Its supposed to be able to withstand the heat. The paint on the engine is either duplicolor or POR 15
 

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Well I was supposed to bring the chassis back home so I could work on it throughout the winter, but the roads were too sloppy so that will have to wait.










Next up:
pulling injectors and replacing o-rings
wiring the engine
new rad cradle
plastic fuel tank and run lines
And try finding a body shop/bodyman willing to take this project
 
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