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Discussion Starter #1
OK guys i know theres a million no start threads going at any one time and i've searched 'em . . . i really have and haven't come up with anything :whiteflag

1995 FSB (obviously lol) 5.8 EB auto.

cranks over fine but . . .
fuel press comes up fine to 40 plus with key on till you crank starter then it falls off
no injector cycling (noid light hooked up)
no spark (spark test light in line with coil and plug wire) but blinks briefly when you let off key

other issues
had periodic no start issues when i got it last week but i have no history on it, bought non running
theft light blinks while cranking - i know nothing about the factory theft system
all emission has been removed but all other systems appear to be new (dist, ign wires, TPS, etc someone replaced a bunch of parts already)

pulled EEC out and all looks fine, i know that does not mean anything but wanted to check for water intrusion. Pulled covers looks high an dry

codes pulled KOEO

22 - MAP out or range ( i pulled the MAP off my running yard truck and tried it and still no start)
553, 552, 565 and 558 (all emissions system codes i assume because its all gone lol)

111 - only code in the second set and it is system pass
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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maybe a bad pickup in the distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the distributor is a new reman . . . but that dont mean much lol. Wonder if there is a way to isolate it and test.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yes, i checked at the coil, the cap and at the plug no spark anywhere. I had the fuel press gauge, noid light and the spark test lead all hooked up and none were functioning while cranking. Fuel press comes up fine when key is in on position but drops while cranking. Looks like the EEC has been out and either worked on or tested. For a hundy i think i may just replace it with a reman.

Could a malfunctioning ignition switch cause spark, fuel and injectors to drop away?
 

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Sounds like an ignition module. Ours is located on the drivers fender near the firewall. Sandwiched in a heat sink.

I'd get a couple/3 wrecking yard ones and swap it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
nope . . . just went out and swapped it off my 94. . . . may try distributors as easy as it is . . . . I'm glad its not a Chevy :D lol


Its nice to have a rolling, continually changing self sustaining ever evolving Bronco repository on site lol . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
maybe a bad pickup in the distributor.

You sir are correct, the distributor on this engine was a drop in reman unit and still had a bad pickup. Fired right up after I put a new one in this morning. Runs well, just have mess with the timing, with it set at ten btdc seems to idle high. I think I will make this truck my daily driver once its sorted out, goes down the road nice.

out of curiosity anyone know why there is a differance in the dimension on the end of the distributor shaft? was going to swap the one off my 94 5.0 and the end of the shaft below the drive gear was about .010 bigger. I thought most that stuff was the same.

I like the look of the tires that are on it but holy smokes are they noisy. Those things got to go, thinking 33 10.50 BFG AT's
 

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Discussion Starter #9
looking for a little advice on this thing. Starts and runs GREAT but i cant seem to get the idle down. Searched the board here but could not find anything.

All vac lines and gaskets new or are in good shape
I pulled spout and set base idle at 10* btc and when i plug spout back in it creeps up to about twelve hundred plus, with spout out for timing it is still at a thousand rpm
idle screw is all the way out
tried new IAC no change
tried new map no change

my question is before i got this truck all the egr and smog pump stuff had been removed and there are about four or so loose plugs on the engine harness. Could the removal of the pump and associated parts be skewing the computer and causing the high idle? are there other things i should check?

getting codes
first set
122 - tp sensor below min voltage
553 - air mngmnt 2 fail
552 - air mngmnt 1 fail
565 - canister purge fail
558 - EGR vac reg circuit fail
second set -
122 - tp sensor below min voltage
212 - loss of idm to pcm or spout grounded (guessing from me messing with timing)
334 - EGR closed volt higher then expected

Having already had a defective "new" dist pickup i am thinking replace tps even though it is also new. Just wanted to rum the smog/egr (or lack of) by the board here and get some thoughts. Also i have comp cams 35-349-8 Extreme Energy cam installed does that require different timing by any chance? It was installed by previous owner and all i have is the cam card.

again, thanks all . . . .
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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:thumbup glad that worked out for you..

you say the vacuum lines are new, but what about the vacuum canister? Any leaks there?

the 500 codes are all related to your smog stuff being removed, the EEC is looking for those parts and doesn't see them. Only way to correct is to put them back, or install a tuner to remove them.

There is a great TPS thread for tips on troubleshooting...check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The TP code can cause your idle issues. Test/adjust/replace the TP as needed.
thinking as cheap as they are that may be my next move

:thumbup glad that worked out for you..

you say the vacuum lines are new, but what about the vacuum canister? Any leaks there?

the 500 codes are all related to your smog stuff being removed, the EEC is looking for those parts and doesn't see them. Only way to correct is to put them back, or install a tuner to remove them.

There is a great TPS thread for tips on troubleshooting...check it out.
thanks, yeah funny thing is my first response in my head was "nahh . . . thats a brand new distributor" lol

If i pull one of the vac caps off the tree it stumbles and getts a choppy idle, i believe there are no air leaks at least none everything i checked so far seem tight. I believe the canister has been removed but there is still a rectangle one down by the right side of the radiator assuming its a charcoal canister or something. One lines goes to thropttle body and other goes back somewhere. I will have to look into the TPS thread and maybe getting into a tuner. I've never messed tuners but have no prob messing with that kinda stuff. Is there a certain type i should buy or is there a popular one with the group here?

Heres some pics as it sits today. There is some kind of thing plugged into the harness where i am assuming the egr or pump plugged into, as of yet i have not been able to identify it. The top of it unscrews and there are a few small diodes or something in it.

Thanks again all . . .
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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yeah, someone pulled the EGR and blocked it off. the part you see plugged into the harness is the egr eliminator. you're seeing the expected behavior when you have one installed where the engine will throw the EGR code, but it has essentially been removed from the EEC. Is your CEL on?

you're correct, the canister down by the frame is the charcoal canister for catching fuel vapor.

There are different kinds of tuners, tweecer and moats quarterhorse are two of the most common. I'm using a tweecer on my rig with the MAF conversion and have all of the emissions stuff tuned out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yes the CEL is on, has been since i got it. Is there any point to putting any of that stuff back on? i would rather have the high idle corrected if that would do it. Only other prob is this has headers and all the air tubes went with the old manifolds.


I am going to look into the tuners
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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opinions vary, technically it's against the law to remove smog equipment..having said that, you bought the rig without it, so unless you're county requires smog, or you want to switch back to stock manifolds and try to put everything back, I'd say work with what you got.

Focus on the TPS that is more than likely the cause of your high idle..

That engine looks really clean by the way, whoever had it before you seems to have taken pretty good care of it..

only other thing I would address immediately are those crappy clamp on battery connectors. They can cause all kinds of problems..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
lol yes those are high on the list.

Actually i pulled the engine last Wednesday went through it and corrected the oil pressure issue, detailed it and put it back in Friday (previous owner painted engine blue . . . wtf lol). Got it running saturday morning and have been sorting the small stuff since. I was surprised when i got into the engine and found new pistons, rods, cam etc the whole motor has been gone through very recently like maybe a few hundred miles if that, still had hone marks in cyls. I bought it non running from a dealer auction (or should i say did a deal with my dealer buddy that grabbed it for me lol) and had no history on it but could see the block and heads were done, fresh tanked surface with new freeze plugs. some more pics on that here. Its turning out to be one HELL of a truck. Runs great just the high idle. goes down the road nice and tight, chassis showing 122k on the odo. Nice lift on it to

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=364938

all told i did some wheelin and dealing and have maybe three hundred into this entire thing and that includes what i paid for it (traded a jet ski that i paid nothing for to my dealer friend lol)
 

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Brand new to this page and idk if I'm posting in the right spot or not but I too have a no start issue. It's a 1994 fs bronco with 5.8l. So long story short I started it up Monday morning last week. Drove about 3 miles to my parents house soon as I turn in the drive the bronco shuts off. I.throw it in N and try and restart. it does for as long as it takes to get down the drive way then dies. Now its only cranking, no fire. I checked fuel pump relay and fuse and eec. Replaced fuel pump with brand new motorcraft parts. Checked the inertia switch. It has no power. But all fuses are good and relays are replaced. Wherectile do I go next?? Again sorry if this is not the correct place to post but Im at a loss and need my bronco back on the road!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nahh . . . its all good. This is in fact a "no start" thread :D . . . . like my third, hell you could probably just search mine lol

Pull codes if you can but they can be vague and difficult to diagnosing. Approach it systematically, in my case i had noid light, spark light and fuel press gauge all hooked up while trying to figure it out. Kept eliminating systems till i found the pick up in the distributor was bad and it was a brand new reman unit. I actually dismissed it early on thinking cant be bad its new but everything kept point back to it. Never trust and non oem sensor, they are better then they use to be but still a crap shoot. Theres a lot of good knowledge on the board here and i would suppose somewhere someone on here dealt with just about every prob there ever was with these things. It really just comes down to systematic diagnosis but feel free to post up in this thread as ya go, someone will chime in I'm sure . . . .


So far with the last couple Broncs i have had these things have left me stranded and had to be figured out

TPS - did give me two tps codes
Dist pick up - no code but everything pointed to it
plug wires (they were the OEM wires on a 94 i just bought with 59k orig miles on it, high humidity would cause spark scatter you could hear and no start)
ECM - cant remember but i think it did not pass codes at all not even an all clear code, replaced it and fired right up
 

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I think I narrowed it down to the ignition control module. Correct me if I'm wrong but these things will not even engage the fuel pump if they don't see spark? I'm going to test my module tomorrow and replace if necessary. Also my coil is not getting power when it's being cranked so that also points in that direction of ignition control mod... correct??
 

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The sequence goes mostly like this, a lot of things are going on, but basically it goes like this:
Turning on the ignition switch to ON powers up the ECM, which engages the fuel pump for about 1-2 seconds, then the ECM shuts off the fuel pump.
Turning the ignition switch to START, engages the starter. As soon as the ECM sees PIP pulses from the distributer at about 200 RPM, the ECM turns on the fuel pump (via a relay). (This means that the engine is cranking.) The fuel pump will stay running until the ignition is shut off or the RPMs drop below about 200 RPM. If the engine starts, the PIP pulses keep on coming.
The PIP pulses are not all the same length, one is different, and that's how the ECM knows where #1 cylinder is, and pulses the injectors and provides the signal for the ICM to fire the coil. (The ECM also sets/adjusts the timing.)

So, to answer you question, the ECM doesn't know if the coil ever fires (on a '94), the fuel pump is controlled by the ECM. No magic, no fuel pressure switch.
 
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