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Discussion Starter #1
Alright I've looked through the archives for help, and that got me started in my diagnosis but am still stuck. Started out with no power coming from the front switch. Put a new front switch in and now have power coming out of switch every time. Window motor still wasn't working so I put a new window motor in. It worked for awhile then stopped. Then after a few days it would start working again for awhile then stop again. This has gone on for a couple months now. I've never had the rear key switch working. FYI I ran a jumper wire to bypass the latch switch at all times now.

Yesterday it stopped working again when the glass was only up a few inches. I finally took the time and pulled the panel and grabbed a test light. I put the light to the red wire to the motor. With front switch in UP position my test light turns on but no action at the motor. With front switch DOWN I get nothing. Then I place test light on the yellow wire going to the motor. With front switch UP my test light turns on but no action at the motor. With front switch DOWN I get nothing.

When running power directly from the battery the motor works fine so I know my new motor still works.

I feel like I have a ground issue, but isn't it weird that I get power at my test light in the UP position no matter which wire I am holding? I even tried directly grounding one wire then the other while front switch was on but nothing. But chances are... in a couple days or so I will give it a try and it will work great again... for awhile. :banghead
 

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Nvr Been Bnnd
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Have you checked the wire loom left of the tail gate, thats a common are for wires to be pinched and chaffed causing a short.
One trick I learned here is to use a headlight as a test light to check wires for conductivity, if it doesnt turn the light on brightly you have a bad wire.:beer
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have tried it both connected and on its own. Ground end of my test light is clipped to the inside tailgate handle. I get a very bright light on the tester so I feel that is a good ground for testing. It's just really weird that both wires light up the tester in the UP position.
 

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Nvr Been Bnnd
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ok your ground should be fine, but its the switched power that may be you problem. like I said earlier to use a headlight instead of the test light (because it doesnt take much voltage to light a test light) If the headlight shines brightly you are getting a good current, if it shines dimly or not at all that wire is broken somewhere...
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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I have tried it both connected and on its own. Ground end of my test light is clipped to the inside tailgate handle. I get a very bright light on the tester so I feel that is a good ground for testing. It's just really weird that both wires light up the tester in the UP position.
Does it also do this ^ when the connector is disconnected, or only when it is connected to the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry guys, I got wrapped up in MNF last night hoping the Skins would pull out a win... Tonight the wifey had us going to dinner at some friends and we just got home. I'll check on those suggestions tomorrow night. El - I did not try the truck side of the connecter when disconnected from the motor, only the motor side of the connector when plugged together.
 
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