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Discussion Starter #1
Well after trying to diagnose a high idle problem for a long time and now I've had the exhaust modified a little I've noticed that if you gas it hard the truck will sputter and wanna backfire a little..

This to me seems to be the symptoms of an engine not being timed right..

So I threw the light on it and it looks like it's timed to 0 and not 10 BTDC. (the pointer indicator is right at the 0)

Now for you engine guru's who know more then I would the motor being timed at 0 cause the motor to idle high and backfire like it is? I'm just hoping I find the needle in the haystack to all these issues I have been having..

I had someone time it for me before and now it shows what happens when you don't do things yourself..
 

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Spectre said:
Well after trying to diagnose a high idle problem for a long time and now I've had the exhaust modified a little I've noticed that if you gas it hard the truck will sputter and wanna backfire a little..

This to me seems to be the symptoms of an engine not being timed right..

So I threw the light on it and it looks like it's timed to 0 and not 10 BTDC. (the pointer indicator is right at the 0)

Now for you engine guru's who know more then I would the motor being timed at 0 cause the motor to idle high and backfire like it is? I'm just hoping I find the needle in the haystack to all these issues I have been having..

I had someone time it for me before and now it shows what happens when you don't do things yourself..

Spectre

Are you disconnecting the SPOUT valve when you time it ? Also, is it good and warm when you time it?

If all that is right, you should return it to the stock 10 and see what happens. Normally this is the time I'd tell you to bump it even further, but don't do that until all your high idle issues are resolved.

While it's running, take the cover off the accelerator cable on top of the throttle body. Attempt to close the butterflies and check for cable binding and mechanical problems before electrical and fuel.

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea. I'm dissconecting the spout.. (I've learned that on the many hours of searching on this board)

Does anyone have a pic on how it should line up on the mark? I'm used to other cars where there is just 1 thing sticking over the pulley and makes it simple.. Here on our bronco there is a pointer going over the pulley and then down and to the left there a hash mark and then lower then that there is another piece that comes over the pulley.. A pic would make the world a lot easier.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well just found on Fireguy's site (he's the man) I found this pic (to me this looks like it's set to 12 degrees BTC. Is this correct?

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well now I set it to 10 degress BTDC shut the truck off.. Plugged in the spout and tried to start it, and now the truck won't start.. I'm pretty sure if I set it back the way it was it'll start..

any ideas?
 

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Lick my balls
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If it won't run at 10* stock timing than (assumung you know where #1 cylinder is) that your timing chain is out of whack, or you aren't lining it up to the right spot. Try setting it by ear. With your engine running, turn it clockwise until it starts to run crappy, make note/mark of where the distributor is. Now turn the distributor counterclockwise, until it starts to run crappy. Now split the difference and that should be the propper timing. Then connect the timing light and let us know what the timing is.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
#1 cylinder is the first one on the left side if you are standing at the front of the truck looking in the motor.

I'm lining it up to the same spot as the yellow stripe in the pic.. (hence why I asked if someone had a pic to double check if I am lining it up in the right spot..
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Spectre said:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20296&highlight=timing+mark

Found this page and it answered my question on where the mark is..

But now it doesn't explain the reason why the engine won't start when it set at 10* BTDC.

I'm gunna have to go back outside and set it down to 0 again so it's driveable and mess with it tomorrow.
Try doing what I told you, OK?
waltman said:
If it won't run at 10* stock timing than (assumung you know where #1 cylinder is) that your timing chain is out of whack, or you aren't lining it up to the right spot. Try setting it by ear. With your engine running, turn it clockwise until it starts to run crappy, make note/mark of where the distributor is. Now turn the distributor counterclockwise, until it starts to run crappy. Now split the difference and that should be the propper timing. Then connect the timing light and let us know what the timing is.
 

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Spectre said:
Well just found on Fireguy's site (he's the man) I found this pic (to me this looks like it's set to 12 degrees BTC. Is this correct?

13 1/2 actually

and I'd know, that's my engine. Fireguy asked if he could use the pic and I had no problems with it. Might be able to give him back a sliver of the help he's given me.

I run mine at 13.5 for better performance and mileage on 87.

Sixlitre
 

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Spectre said:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20296&highlight=timing+mark

Found this page and it answered my question on where the mark is..

But now it doesn't explain the reason why the engine won't start when it set at 10* BTDC.

I'm gunna have to go back outside and set it down to 0 again so it's driveable and mess with it tomorrow.
It's entirely possible your balancer has walked on it's rubber mounting and moved on you. More likely your timing chain is WHIPPED and needs changing;

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=4970&s=18193#content

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hmm that sux.. I actually have it set at the 5 mark before the 0.. by ear it sounds good.. Smooth accelleration..

Motor is from a 96 F150 and the motor only had 65,000 miles on it.. I'd hate to think the motor's chain is whipped already.. Don't make me start thinking bad about ford motors..

I did run into an issue about idling and the MAP sensor. I'll start another post about that after I do some searching about it first..

But now I have to go back outside and rotate the 40's. <sigh>
 

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Spectre said:
Hmm that sux.. I actually have it set at the 5 mark before the 0.. by ear it sounds good.. Smooth accelleration..

Motor is from a 96 F150 and the motor only had 65,000 miles on it.. I'd hate to think the motor's chain is whipped already.. Don't make me start thinking bad about ford motors..

I did run into an issue about idling and the MAP sensor. I'll start another post about that after I do some searching about it first..

But now I have to go back outside and rotate the 40's. <sigh>
Well you're doing it right Spectre

to help your ear, plug in a vacuum gauge and set it to the highest vacuum, then back off 2-3 degrees.

It may be that they stuck the wrong balancer on, or it's walked on it's rubber, meaning you get another balancer.

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hmm another balancer.. Might try and grab one from the junk yard..

My wife just drove the bronco around.. said it's worse then what it was before I started.. So much by doing it by ear.. heh I get to go home and set it back to the way it used to be.. Gotta love working at night by droplight.
 

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Spectre said:
Hmm another balancer.. Might try and grab one from the junk yard..

My wife just drove the bronco around.. said it's worse then what it was before I started.. So much by doing it by ear.. heh I get to go home and set it back to the way it used to be.. Gotta love working at night by droplight.
If you timed it by ear exactly the way I suggested than I would say it is your timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Timing chain? geeze.. I don't want to start messing with a chain..

I'll try your suggestion.. If I remember last night while timing it, it seemed to run smooth pretty much wherever I turned it.. But that's also because of it idling very high if I believe.. (was idling between 1,500 and 2k)

I think I have multiple problems affecting this.. <sigh>
 

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Keep turning it, it will start to run crappy.
You said it idles better when the IAC is disconnected, than disconnect it. Better yet take it off and clean it. There is a good write up on it.
 

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Are you sure the engine was set to TDC when the distributor was put in? If it was off, this could possibly be causing the problem. Just another thought. I doubt it's the balancer, I thought mine was in bad shape when I was doing the rebuild but the guys at the machine shop said they rarely see problems with them on vehicles that don't turn high RPM's.
 

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jermil01 said:
Are you sure the engine was set to TDC when the distributor was put in? If it was off, this could possibly be causing the problem. Just another thought. I doubt it's the balancer, I thought mine was in bad shape when I was doing the rebuild but the guys at the machine shop said they rarely see problems with them on vehicles that don't turn high RPM's.
both good points Jermil

Could well be the first point, as he can't seem to get the idle down. I certinally wouldn't buy the balancer until you're sure what's causing the high idle condition Spectre.

Sixlitre
 

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Charlie don't surf..
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Thanks SixL, every now and then I'll say something worth while. I don't see how it could be the timing chain. Didn't see anything in here where he said the chain was replaced or changed, so unless it jumped a tooth that's probably not the culprit.
 
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