[illinidorry]

I sourced a 351, ZF5, and manual 1356 from an '88 350 for my 93 150 currently powered by a 302, AOD, and push button tcase. Engine was just dropped off at machine shop for a rebuild and I was looking for a shop for the tranny, the 88 drivetrain has about 160k on it and previous owner claimed everything worked fine. Obviously both motors are speed density and I have pretty much every part I need for swap as far as wiring, shifters, driveshafts, etc, but I didn't realize until now I'll need to track down 92+ pedal assembly and a manual crossmember for transmission.

The fuel injectors came out in pieces so I went ahead and ordered the Explorer 4 hold injectors. I don't need a hot rod but since it's out I feel like I should give it a slight bump. I know speed density is highly limited and I'm not completely against going to MAF but not dying to shell out another 1300 bucks. Should I bother with a small cam? Anyone have a specific one that works? I know the E7 heads are another severe limitation. Should I get a set of GT40's or a set of the Flotecs people seem to like or will that anger the SD?

 

[Skitter302]

Getting a better fuel managment system like MAF is what is going to make your upgrades worth it. I put a MAF system on a stock 351 and wow, my daily driver is quicker and tows better. What ever you chooce to do you'll wnat to have the fuel managment tuned to match the engnie. MAF EECs are good at getting enough fuel in the engine to run it, but a proper tune will help it perform perfectly.

 

[fodder]

The Comp 35-512-8 cam is often recommended as great for MAF, yet not too aggressive for SD. That makes it worth doing now when the engine is out, regardless of future upgrades.

If you can source used parts yourself, there's no reason to spend anywhere near $1300 on a MAF conversion. $100-300 would easily cover it. And, since you're on the hunt for a used pedal set and crossmember, I don't see that as being any different from your current direction.

 

[illinidorry]

The Comp 35-512-8 cam is often recommended as great for MAF, yet not too aggressive for SD. That makes it worth doing now when the engine is out, regardless of future upgrades.

If you can source used parts yourself, there's no reason to spend anywhere near $1300 on a MAF conversion. $100-300 would easily cover it. And, since you're on the hunt for a used pedal set and crossmember, I don't see that as being any different from your current direction.

Possibly not but I am in the NY metro area and pick and pulls are a rare sight within a couple hours drive it seems and the fact that I am going to Japan for 5 months on military orders was kind of steering me towards the easy route of buying a ready-made kit. I guess I could change my mind if I can find a decent pick n pull.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Comp cam 35-512-8 is a great cam for speed density. BUT it is a roller cam and your '90 block is not setup for a roller cam.

Find a flat tappet that is similar, without going over any of the 35-512-8 specs. That cam is about as hot as speed density will handle. It is a torque monster though.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Also, the trans crossmember needs to come from an 87-96/7 bronco or f-series with a 5 speed manual (ZF or M5R2) and a small block v8 or I6.

 

[fodder]

Possibly not but I am in the NY metro area and pick and pulls are a rare sight within a couple hours drive it seems and the fact that I am going to Japan for 5 months on military orders was kind of steering me towards the easy route of buying a ready-made kit. I guess I could change my mind if I can find a decent pick n pull.

What I was unsuccessfully hinting at was, a donor M/T crossmember is just as tough to find as MAF components, so you're either hunting locally or at the whim of other parts pickers. Six of one, half dozen of the other.

Comp cam 35-512-8 is a great cam for speed density. BUT it is a roller cam and your '90 block is not setup for a roller cam.

Hmm, I didn't think of that. Was '90 roller ready? Either '89 or '91 comes to mind for that, but info is all over the board even if I were to remember right...

 

[illinidorry]

What I was unsuccessfully hinting at was, a donor M/T crossmember is just as tough to find as MAF components, so you're either hunting locally or at the whim of other parts pickers. Six of one, half dozen of the other.

I got you on that part, it seems easier to track down online and/or call a yard asking for a specific part like the crossmember as opposed to all the misc parts for the MAF swap. I did find a couple u-pull-its in PA a couple hours away I might make the pilgrimage to and see what I can find though.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Hmm, I didn't think of that. Was '90 roller ready? Either '89 or '91 comes to mind for that, but info is all over the board even if I were to remember right...

For 351w, there was no 'roller ready' block. In 94 they went to the new F4TE roller block and all 351s from there out were roller.

302 engines were roller ready when they went EFI or shortly after. A MY 90 302 block would likely be roller ready. Some trucks got leftover non-roller ready blocks until stock disappeared. Mustangs got the roller blocks sometime in the late 80s.

Pre-E4TE blocks can be retrofitted for roller cams, but i dont know the details on that.

 

[nobody1369]

For 351w, there was no 'roller ready' block. In 94 they went to the new F4TE roller block and all 351s from there out were roller.

302 engines were roller ready when they went EFI or shortly after. A MY 90 302 block would likely be roller ready. Some trucks got leftover non-roller ready blocks until stock disappeared. Mustangs got the roller blocks sometime in the late 80s.

Pre-E4TE blocks can be retrofitted for roller cams, but i dont know the details on that.

not meaning to steal the thread but what would your guess be on my 90? my block has a remanufactured for ford tag on the block from 2004 my heads both have purple paint check+
I KNOW , I KNOW im just asking fpr a guess

 

[fodder]

what would your guess be on my 90? my block has a remanufactured for ford tag on the block from 2004 my heads both have purple paint check+

He answered that in the post you quoted. "A MY 90 302 block would likely be roller ready." There's no reason to guess or assume that a reman'd and painted block would have anything different from what it was originally spec'd with.

 

[nobody1369]

He answered that in the post you quoted. "A MY 90 302 block would likely be roller ready." There's no reason to guess or assume that a reman'd and painted block would have anything different from what it was originally spec'd with.

Hey dude I’ll respond to you later I’m on the road right now but you know you can always tail how much horsepower they have by the sound of the pipes
I was talking to big blue anyway not you

 

[fodder]

I was talking to big blue anyway not you

I was saving him the time of responding to what was at best a rhetorical question, and that's being generous.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Easy now fellas

Chris, it would be hard to say what they used for a reman block. I would say it could be a roller cam, since ford likes to group things together after they are no longer a current model. But i certainly cant say for sure. I also am least familiar with the 302 vs the 351 and 300. I want to say mustangs with 302s were running roller cams in 90, but not the trucks.


My unknown brand of reman 300 in my '85 had the correct casting code for my year, either E4 or E5 I cant recall.

 

[nobody1369]

Easy now fellas

Chris, it would be hard to say what they used for a reman block. I would say it could be a roller cam, since ford likes to group things together after they are no longer a current model. But i certainly cant say for sure. I also am least familiar with the 302 vs the 351 and 300. I want to say mustangs with 302s were running roller cams in 90, but not the trucks.


My unknown brand of reman 300 in my '85 had the correct casting code for my year, either E4 or E5 I cant recall.

can you tell me where to look for casting numbers? heads too? when i did the saginaw swap drivers side head had a large check + in purple paint not wrecking yard yellow. it meant something to someone. a few days later i noticed same purple check + on the rear of the passenger head. im sure that shit is in a data base somewhere ! probem is the guys probably dead

 

[illinidorry]

The Comp 35-512-8 cam is often recommended as great for MAF, yet not too aggressive for SD. That makes it worth doing now when the engine is out, regardless of future upgrades.

If you can source used parts yourself, there's no reason to spend anywhere near $1300 on a MAF conversion. $100-300 would easily cover it. And, since you're on the hunt for a used pedal set and crossmember, I don't see that as being any different from your current direction.

The more MAF swap research I do it definitely doesn't seem very hard. I was very apprehensive at first but found some good detailed write ups and it seems pretty simple even more so since the engine compartment is going to be wide open anyway. So since my 88 block isn't a roller I can look for a flat tappet cam with similar specs to the 35-512-8? Even if I go MAF I don't want a crazy cam. Just have to figure out a set of heads to go with those.

 

[BigBlue 94]

can you tell me where to look for casting numbers? heads too? when i did the saginaw swap drivers side head had a large check + in purple paint not wrecking yard yellow. it meant something to someone. a few days later i noticed same purple check + on the rear of the passenger head. im sure that shit is in a data base somewhere ! probem is the guys probably dead

Engine block casting number is right above the starter. First four digits are the only important ones.

Head numbers I cant recall their location. On the 300 its on the under side and impossible to see without seven mirrors and a flashlight.

 

[TravisITGuy]

so to run that 35-512-8 with stock e7 heads, would new pushrods and valve springs be necessary? or is it a slap in and go?

 

[fodder]

so to run that 35-512-8 with stock e7 heads, would new pushrods and valve springs be necessary? or is it a slap in and go?

I'll be determining that soon... Longer pushrods are likely, due to aftermarket cams typically having a smaller base circle than stock.

cam swap. now valves tapping loud?

my F250 with Explorer 302 with GT40P heads. jsut finished doing a second cam swap on this engine tonight and im having some major tapping sounds coming from both valve covers. engine runs smooth but the tapping is LOUD. i head it from inside the cab its soo loud. never had this issue before new...

www.corral.net

I would assume stronger springs are necessary on E7's, same as on GT40's, when going to the higher lift cam.

 

[illinidorry]

Instead of the of the 35-512-8 would one of these be a good candidate for the non-roller block?

Xtreme 4x4 206/214 Hydraulic Flat Cam for Ford 351W

Xtreme 4x4 206/214 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam for Ford 351W. Excellent torque and throttle response, good economy and low end power.

www.compcams.com

Xtreme 4x4 210/218 Hydraulic Flat Cam for Ford 351W

Xtreme 4x4 210/218 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam for Ford 351W. Good torque for 4x4, excellent mid-range power. Great for RV or towing.

www.compcams.com

Also would those be ok with the stock E7s or should I look for a head upgrade like these Floteks?

Flotek 203-505 FLOTEK 180cc Small Block Ford Cylinder Heads | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - FLOTEK 180cc Small Block Ford Cylinder Heads with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Cylinder Heads at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Will the stock intake choke the heads out anyway? Again either way I think I am going to find the parts and give the MAF swap a go.