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While on a little road trip today I made a pit stop, as I was walking past the left rear I got a wiff of gear oil, sure enough the was oil coming out of the drum. I then noticed there was a wet spot near the spring perch, and found the weld has cracked and has cracked right through the tube in one spot, and also that the diff was hot. Im pretty good about keeping the oil clean and run synthetic. Every time the diff has been on its way out it gets hot and starts puking oil out the breather long befor theres any noise.

Over the last 4 years, Ive had 5 rebuilds done(tried different shops with good reputations), new bearings everytime and seals, and 2 R&P sets. Anyone else ever have this many problems? the truck see mostly pavement lately. Im begining to think the whole housing is fubared, I have a 10.25, just dont have the money to get the parts to put it in. :whiteflag
 

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Have you measured to see if the axle housing is square from end to end? You really should if you haven't. It is possible that one tube is a little off square, causing a side load on the gears and ruining them so often, and now is rearing it's ugly head on the spring perch. The uneven torque of accelerating from a stop over and over with one tube out of alignment could put an extra load on one spring perch. What kind of diff are you running?

Have you had the cast iron alignment blocks off the axle? If so, was one locating hole on the bottom out of round? If you are taking the axle out to measure it anyways, you can check this.

How is your rear end lifted? Blocks, add a leaf or a leaf pack?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Its lifted with a leaf pack, has 4.56's with a auburn LSD, the perches were cut off and new ones put on to correct the pinion angle at a driveline shop. If the tubes weren't square, would they not be leaking where they are pressed into the center section? or the plug welds be cracked? The cracked perch now that Ive looked at it more seems more like its caused by a bad weld, I've also thaught about running a heavier oil, I am running 75w-90 right now.
 

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i see in you're bronco info you have a zf5 trans.... which means you don't need the VSS...

if i were you, i'd swap in a junkyard 9".. its a bolt-in swap from an 8.8. and i bet it solves you're problems.
 

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i see in you're bronco info you have a zf5 trans.... which means you don't need the VSS...

if i were you, i'd swap in a junkyard 9".. its a bolt-in swap from an 8.8. and i bet it solves you're problems.
Ive been thinking of that, Ive also been thinking of getting the gears for my 10.25 and some wheels and tires for now aswell but it all takes money haha.
 

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A bent rear end won't always present itself as leaks at the center section, a TWISTED rear end will leak at the tubes. A bent one will eat bearings at a fairly regular pace. If you've been through 5 builds in 4 years, don't blame the builders (well, do, for not checking for square), but your rear end is ****ed. Get a good, reputable builder to check it for square before gouging you, or just pick up another axle, get it checked, and start again.
 

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A bent rear end won't always present itself as leaks at the center section, a TWISTED rear end will leak at the tubes. A bent one will eat bearings at a fairly regular pace. If you've been through 5 builds in 4 years, don't blame the builders (well, do, for not checking for square), but your rear end is ****ed. Get a good, reputable builder to check it for square before gouging you, or just pick up another axle, get it checked, and start again.
Exactly, slam a tube on a rock or jump it once and it could be done. I've also seen rear end tubes warp from a crappy welding job. Too much heat applied at one time with a MIG and it can warp it. On thinner tubes it is really easy to warp them when welding up a perch if you don't know how to set up your welder correctly. You are welding just on the "top" of the tube so too much heat and it shrinks the area around the perch causing warpage and eventually cracking of the metal AROUND the weld.

Did the gear-eating start after it was welded up?

Got any pics of that crack?

You said the tube is cracked earlier, as well as the weld. Sounds like the tube cracked first, cracking the weld because the rear end bent even more, and the u-bolts were trying to hold it to the spring pack.

Ur rear is done with. Do the following in this order, or you could have the same problem again, it'll be the lowest price fix.

Get a JY 8.8
Check it for square
Get the perches welded on where you need them
Check it for square
Get a good book on installing gears in a 8.8
Read said book
Install new bearing and seals
Install your gears
Button it all up, and wheel the SHIT out of your truck.
 

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is there a certain way stuff should be welded to the axle housing?
 

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is there a certain way stuff should be welded to the axle housing?
I personally have never welded perches to an axle, but I do know how to weld very well. I have seen plenty of good welding jobs on axles, but also some bad ones.

There are several key steps to a good weld on anything that thick.

1st is wire thickness. If you are using the wrong wire thickness for what you are welding, there is no way you are going to get a quality weld. Using what your welder recommends is a GREAT starting point. There is almost no situation that the recommended wire vs. material thickness is going to change.

2nd is cleanliness! The cleaner the surface, the better. No residue from anything should be on what you are welding. Cleaning material residue or oil, nothing!

3rd is choosing the right welder. Ideally you never want to max out your welder. If i want to weld 3/4in steel, I wouldn't use a welder that maxed out at 3/4in steel, i would look for one that would weld 1" steel.

4th is setting up your welder correctly. The guide that comes with your welder is pretty close most of the time, but not always perfect. You need to learn your welder. Practice on some steel that is the same thickness as what you need to weld. Most people end up setting the wire speed too slow or too fast. When welding with a mig it should sound like consistently popping popcorn. You shouldn't be seeing too much spatter, and you should also be able to observe you weld pool moving for just a little bit after you move the torch directly off the weld. Not too long, just a little.

5th is technique. when welding on thicker metal I always do a good tack every 1.5 to 2.5 inches, then weld between the tacks. The key is letting it cool down between welds. On an axle bracket I would tack each corner right where I want it, then add a tack in the middle on each side. I would then weld say the bottom right, let it cool, welt the top left, let it cool, weld the top right, let it cool, the weld the bottom left and call it good. Technique with the mig gun also matters, you want a back and forth motion from one material to the other, just passing over the bottom of your weld each time. This keeps a consistent bead and spreads the heat evenly.
 

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I personally have never welded perches to an axle, but I do know how to weld very well. I have seen plenty of good welding jobs on axles, but also some bad ones.

There are several key steps to a good weld on anything that thick.

1st is wire thickness. If you are using the wrong wire thickness for what you are welding, there is no way you are going to get a quality weld. Using what your welder recommends is a GREAT starting point. There is almost no situation that the recommended wire vs. material thickness is going to change.

2nd is cleanliness! The cleaner the surface, the better. No residue from anything should be on what you are welding. Cleaning material residue or oil, nothing!

3rd is choosing the right welder. Ideally you never want to max out your welder. If i want to weld 3/4in steel, I wouldn't use a welder that maxed out at 3/4in steel, i would look for one that would weld 1" steel.

4th is setting up your welder correctly. The guide that comes with your welder is pretty close most of the time, but not always perfect. You need to learn your welder. Practice on some steel that is the same thickness as what you need to weld. Most people end up setting the wire speed too slow or too fast. When welding with a mig it should sound like consistently popping popcorn. You shouldn't be seeing too much spatter, and you should also be able to observe you weld pool moving for just a little bit after you move the torch directly off the weld. Not too long, just a little.

5th is technique. when welding on thicker metal I always do a good tack every 1.5 to 2.5 inches, then weld between the tacks. The key is letting it cool down between welds. On an axle bracket I would tack each corner right where I want it, then add a tack in the middle on each side. I would then weld say the bottom right, let it cool, welt the top left, let it cool, weld the top right, let it cool, the weld the bottom left and call it good. Technique with the mig gun also matters, you want a back and forth motion from one material to the other, just passing over the bottom of your weld each time. This keeps a consistent bead and spreads the heat evenly.
i like to do e's when i weld. and the chart on my welder is way off. it says i should be using A to weld stuff that takes C to get good penetration.
 

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Ive been thinking of that, Ive also been thinking of getting the gears for my 10.25 and some wheels and tires for now aswell but it all takes money haha.
You had money for 5 rebuilds of the 8.8. If you buck up for the 10.25, I'm sure you'll build it only once.
 

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I did this..

 

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someoen broke one too many axles. can you say overkill?
 

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i like to do e's when i weld. and the chart on my welder is way off. it says i should be using A to weld stuff that takes C to get good penetration.
e's do have their place, but it is very easy to build too much heat, and passing back over an already solidified weld can contaminate your weld.
 

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filling small holes with weld, fab where extra heat doesn't matter, quick welds that aren't structural (aka, holding a fan bracket in place). That kind of thing. The absolute strongest mig w/ shielding gas weld you can do is the "C" pattern that I described. "E's" are really quick, and you can get something stuck on there good and fast.

Oh, and I did say earlier that your chart is a great place to start, but you need to practice and learn your welder. Welders vary from welder to welder, even of the same model. No two welders are exactly alike because it is impossible to make every voltage regulator exactly the same.
 

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filling small holes with weld, fab where extra heat doesn't matter, quick welds that aren't structural (aka, holding a fan bracket in place). That kind of thing. The absolute strongest mig w/ shielding gas weld you can do is the "C" pattern that I described. "E's" are really quick, and you can get something stuck on there good and fast.

Oh, and I did say earlier that your chart is a great place to start, but you need to practice and learn your welder. Welders vary from welder to welder, even of the same model. No two welders are exactly alike because it is impossible to make every voltage regulator exactly the same.
you said back and forth, not a c pattern. and i did learn my welder, how do you think i know to use c when tacking sheet metal?
 

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Man, no one is attacking you, but since you want to be mr. tuff stuff defensive little kid "i didn't do it, i swear", i'll be blunt instead of being PC.

you said back and forth, not a c pattern. and i did learn my welder, how do you think i know to use c when tacking sheet metal?
Are you sure you can read the chart on the welder, or mabie even a ruler for that matter, cause apparently you can't read a post. I specifically said "The guide that comes with your welder is pretty close most of the time, but not always perfect. You need to learn your welder. Practice on some steel that is the same thickness as what you need to weld."

Soooo, before jumping down someone my throat because you are either mad at your welder for not having a chart that is anywhere close to accurate, or mad at your mom for putting you in the "i ride the tart cart, and i like licking the window. every time i go over a bump, the window slams on my tongue" class, try reading a bit.

As far as not saying "c", i couldn't think of a way to describe it right at that moment. Beer good, BEER GOOD! lol

In the long run, good for you, you want a metal that says "Me Lernd mah weldah mama, uh huh. I dra EEEEE's wit mah weldah. I hav to mak up for my physcial du-fins-sa-sies by acting like i r smrt on da com-poo-ter"
 

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Sounds like dumb driver, funny how these live just fine under a stang/f150 with zero issues.

Before you flame me, I was born BEFORE the 8.8 was born and OWN mustangs..................
 

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Man, no one is attacking you, but since you want to be mr. tuff stuff defensive little kid "i didn't do it, i swear", i'll be blunt instead of being PC.



Are you sure you can read the chart on the welder, or mabie even a ruler for that matter, cause apparently you can't read a post. I specifically said "The guide that comes with your welder is pretty close most of the time, but not always perfect. You need to learn your welder. Practice on some steel that is the same thickness as what you need to weld."

Soooo, before jumping down someone my throat because you are either mad at your welder for not having a chart that is anywhere close to accurate, or mad at your mom for putting you in the "i ride the tart cart, and i like licking the window. every time i go over a bump, the window slams on my tongue" class, try reading a bit.

As far as not saying "c", i couldn't think of a way to describe it right at that moment. Beer good, BEER GOOD! lol

In the long run, good for you, you want a metal that says "Me Lernd mah weldah mama, uh huh. I dra EEEEE's wit mah weldah. I hav to mak up for my physcial du-fins-sa-sies by acting like i r smrt on da com-poo-ter"
im not trying to be tuff, im just pointing out a fact. but the reason i did so is you said basically a zigzag, when you mention a c pattern i thought of like an arc motion. chill out man no ones jumping down anyone's throat.
 
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