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I just purchased an 87 Bronco that is a rust bucket. I found a Mint body from another 87 an hour from me. I want to swap them out. Anyone have a write up on the steps to do this? I have used the search function for the past 3 days and still cant find anything this specific. Thanks
 

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I've never seen one. http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/11273
Its one of those things where if you have to ask such a general question, then it's probably over your technical skill level. If you have a general idea of what to do, then jump in the deep end. When you hit a small snag ask the specific question and there are people here that will give you sound advice.
 

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yo,
This is for the body mounts which are a pia due to rust

Body Removal & Mount pics & locations in a 91
Source: by ChuckVA (Chuck, Da Bronco) at SuperMotors.net


Replacement Tips by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB

Replacement Info & Sources
by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
"...replaced mine as part of my restoration project over the last year+ . All I've got to say is that it was a ROYAL PITA. To replace the front ones you need to have them all loose so you can raise the body far enough to put the new mounts and associated hardware in. 5 of the 8 were so rusted inside the tube that I couldn't simply soak them as previously mentioned. I ended up using a carbide saw blade, (one with diamond grit along the edge), for a sawzall to cut the tubes and that took forever because you are cutting bolts that are a number 8 hardness.
If you are going to replace any, replace them all. Use the polly mounts. Make sure you get the kit for a Bronco and not a F150. The diagram in the LMC Truck shows the wrong poly mount for position 2. That is the poly mount for a F150. In fact the one that goes in that position, including the associated hardware, is the same as position 3. As far as bolts go, the bolt kit from Bronco grave yard is much too long so just go out and get the ones listed in Meisk5's first response. From the LMC Truck catalog you will need the following hardware http://www.lmctruck....ll.aspx?Page=36 6 of #28, 6 of number 31, 2 of number 18, 6 of number 27, ( I didn't use the other numbers as they are the same part number, what I did list skips the hardware they show for position #2 and gets you the correct part). LMC truck has been notified of the diagram error for position 2, which you can see in the second diagram of Miesk5's original post. The Bronco poly kit from Bronco Graveyard http://broncograveya...=body+mount+kit , number 33090 or 33092 has the correct poly bushings including the radiator support bushings. Do not waste your money on their hardware kit as it has bolts that are way too long (part number 33100). Get the hardware from LMC Truck that I previously listed, with the exception of the rear mounts, I went to LOWES and got # 8's from them. I don't know if LMC has the correct length bolts, because by then I had so many useless bolts, I didn't want to risk getting another useless set ..."

"...Also, beware that the frame mounting bracket for these is often wallowed out or rusted thru, and will also need to be replaced if damaged. These are riveted onto the frame, but replacements are bolted on after removing the rivets and old mounts. Finally, the core support may be rusted in the body mount area, and any damage needs to be fixed before installing the new bushings. There may be one or more spacers on top of the bushing, used to align or level the core support. In my experience, it's a PITA to replace these, since they are often rusted out or the bolts are seized up. The inner sleeve is threaded for the bolt, and no amount of pounding will separate the old ones if rusted up. A Sawz-All or cut-off wheel may need to be used to get the old ones out. JSM84..."
by justshootme84 (Randy Z, Casual Mudder

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Parts Break-Out & Locations (& Bolt Sizes) for 94 (other years are similar) w/Nomenclature; "Check out Veiw Z (lower R). It's not totally accurate because it omits the thick spacer, and there should be another washer between the Nut & the Spacer on top of the core support..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net


Also; "
body-mounts.jpg | Hits: 4006 | Posted on: 4/8/05 | View original size (211.66 KB)


Body Mounts for 1994 Bronco (other years similar)
The rear bolts are 7/16"x14(NC) 6.5" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with large integral washer.
The 6 identical bolts are 7/16"x14(NC) 3.75" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with small integral washer.
The front bolts are metric (no other details).

Frame Service - Drilling Precautions

CAUTION: Do not drill holes in the frame flanges. This will reduce the strength of frame (5005).

If a hole must be drilled in the frame, make sure that it meets all of the following requirements:
1. The hole is located in the upper half of the frame.
2. The edge of the drilled hole and the edge of the nearest hole are at least 25mm (1 inch) apart.
3. The edge of the drilled hole is at least 25mm (1 inch) from the edge of the flange.
4. The drilled hole is not adjacent to any other existing brackets or components of frame.

Welding Precautions

CAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) before using any electric welding equipment.

All welding on frame must be done with electric welding equipment, and the heat should be kept in a small area to prevent change in hardness of the metal. Do not use gas welding equipment. A double reinforcement must be added to frames where heat or weld is applied to the area to be repaired. The welds are to run lengthwise along the reinforcement when a reinforcement is to be welded to the frame side rail.

Frame Strength Identification
F-Series, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco all use a 36,000 psi steel frame.

Frame Straightening
Misalignment of frame can be corrected by straightening the out-of-line parts or by replacing the crossmembers, braces, or brackets if they are badly damaged.

WARNING: DO NOT STRAIGHTEN FRONT FRAME RAIL CONVOLUTES.
Straightening should be attempted on frames that fail to meet specifications of the diagonal checking method or where damage is visually apparent.

However, to prevent internal stresses in the metal, frame straightening should be limited to parts that are not severely bent. If heat is needed to straighten a frame member, keep the temperature below 649�C (1200�F) (a dull red glow). Excessive heat may weaken the metal in the frame members and cause permanent damage.

Frame Reinforcing

After a bent frame member has been straightened, inspect the member closely for cracks. If any cracks show, the frame member should be reinforced or replaced.

Reinforcements should be made from angle or flat stock of the same material and thickness as the frame member being reinforced, and should extend a minimum of 152.40mm (6 inches) to either side of the crack. Ideally, the reinforcement should be cut from the corresponding area of a similar frame.

Weld Attachment

To ensure a quality repair, adhere to the following procedure if it is necessary to weld reinforcements to the frame.
1. Wire brush the area around the crack to remove the paint, grease, mud, etc., and to expose the crack completely and ensure good weld adhesion.
2. To stop the crack from spreading, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole at a point 12mm (0.50 inch) beyond the root of the crack.
3. Grind out the full length of the crack to the hole to form a V-shaped slot with the base of the V-slot contacting the reinforcement.
4. The base of the V-slot should have at least a 1.52mm (0.06-inch) opening to ensure weld penetration to the reinforcement when welding the crack.
5. Drill clearance holes in the reinforcements to clear rivet heads and bolt heads or nuts where necessary.
6. In the event that repair is required on more than one frame surface (i.e., a flange crack that extends into the web), two pieces of flat stock (one for each surface) should be utilized and welded together where they join. The web reinforcement should be a minimum of 76.20mm (3.0 inches) high and have a 63.50mm (2.5-inch) radius at each of the two corners.
7. Completely clean the surface of frame under and around the reinforcements.
8. Clamp the reinforcements securely to the frame prior to welding.
9. Weld the reinforcement all around after welding the crack V-slot.
10. The flange edge weld should be ground smooth after all pit holes have been filled by the weld.
11. If a damaged bolted-on frame bracket is to be replaced, the new bolts, washers, and nuts should be of the same specifications and bolt torques as the original parts.
12. In cases where it is necessary to remove rivets, replace them with Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) nuts, bolts and washers of the next larger size (i.e., for 3/8-inch diameter rivets use 7/16-inch bolts, for 7/16-inch diameter rivets use 1/2-inch bolts). This requires line drilling of the holes to the same diameter as the new bolt (i.e., either 0.437 diameter or 0.500 diameter).

Frame Member Replacement

If a damaged frame member is to be replaced, new bolts, Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) fasteners and rivets required for replacement of parts should be of the same specifications as the original bolts or rivets. In cases where it is necessary to substitute a bolt for a rivet, use the next larger size bolt.>>"

GL!
 
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