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Discussion Starter #1
it claims 360HP(most likely in brand new motor in ideal circumstances and not at the rear wheels i know) and no mention of torque numbers. I am going to put it on my good running leak free well maintained 1995 MAF 302 with 97,000 miles on it unless I get a reason not too, also would I have to do anything to the computer? Probably just do shorty headers and brand new factory style exhaust except with a 40 series flowmaster...any opinions, experience, or recommendations?
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Um...you're gonna have to clarify what the heck you're talking about. :toothless

Also, factory E7TE cylinder heads on a 5.0L aren't going to make anywhere near 360 horsepower with mere intake manifold changes. My sincere opinion is that if your engine is running well and is leak-free as you said, don't mess with it. Rule #1 of system administration: never touch a working system.

Look at the modifications I've made. I'm making just a hair over 300 horsepower. I wouldn't have started modifying it if my intake manifold gasket hadn't failed and started a coolant waterfall in my driveway, due to the corner bolts entirely corroding.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Um...you're gonna have to clarify what the heck you're talking about. :toothless

Also, factory E7TE cylinder heads on a 5.0L aren't going to make anywhere near 360 horsepower with mere intake manifold changes. My sincere opinion is that if your engine is running well and is leak-free as you said, don't mess with it. Rule #1 of system administration: never touch a working system.

Look at the modifications I've made. I'm making just a hair over 300 horsepower. I wouldn't have started modifying it if my intake manifold gasket hadn't failed and started a coolant waterfall in my driveway, due to the corner bolts entirely corroding.
90% of the time I would leave the motor alone too, but this thing is absolutely gutless and I would rather replace the top end than swap in a bigger motor, this is the first V8 truck I have ever seen that bogs down when the a/c is on and it was struggling to pull a 4500 lb boat which is embarrassing...
 

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#1 Asshole
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That will give you some more power and should be a pretty straight forward swap. I have never had any experiance with the E303 cam in a truck though. IMO if fuel mileage isn't an issue for you I would change gear ratios front and rear you would get a ton more power there. Gears should eliminate your pulling problem too.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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Sounds like it has other problems.

Have you researched the things to improve power and fuel economy here on FSB, such as a baseline ignition timing bump?

The E303 camshaft sucks. You'll never get any power below ~3000 rpm. The factory 5.0L intake manifold flows about as well as that Trick Flow, and its design was actually copied by Holley for a similar package. The bottom line is that the cylinder heads are the #1 bottleneck in the engine, so anything else is just an incremental improvement until those are replaced.

However, a properly-built 5.8L would be a more cost-effective route, especially if towing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sounds like it has other problems.

Have you researched the things to improve power and fuel economy here on FSB, such as a baseline ignition timing bump?

The E303 camshaft sucks. You'll never get any power below ~3000 rpm. The factory 5.0L intake manifold flows about as well as that Trick Flow, and its design was actually copied by Holley for a similar package. The bottom line is that the cylinder heads are the #1 bottleneck in the engine, so anything else is just an incremental improvement until those are replaced.

However, a properly-built 5.8L would be a more cost-effective route, especially if towing.
I was thinking the E303 may have too high of a powerband, but since this is a dd which is occasionally wheeled slightly(couple times a year, nothin rough) and I dont tow anything regularly, only when I have to(maybe once a month when I have the only available truck to tow the boat to the lake I don't know how bad that actually is, since I will be putting in gears anyway. Or I may just do the sixlitre upgrade and put on an electric fan and maybe electric water pump until I get a 351, but I was thinking about upgrading the top end instead because I have no problem doing that myself in a weekend, but motor swap I would have to outsource to a mechanic(partly due to time constraints and partly because I just don't want to do it myself) so I'm not sure it would be more cost effective...

If I could get them to substitute a different cam in there, what one would be best?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That will give you some more power and should be a pretty straight forward swap. I have never had any experiance with the E303 cam in a truck though. IMO if fuel mileage isn't an issue for you I would change gear ratios front and rear you would get a ton more power there. Gears should eliminate your pulling problem too.
Plan on gears when I get bigger tires, but being mostly a dd I dont want to go much above stock...

I know a guy that used that kit on a mustang and had it dynoed, the best he could get out of it was 310HP
Like I said, I am assuming their "360hp" was at the crank not the rear wheels so that was probably pretty close to expected...
 

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#1 Asshole
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The best option for you will probably be a 5.8 then.
 

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Like stated above , the heads are the bottleneck on these engines. You can put on a set of trick flow or edelbrock heads and get big gains without getting the whole "kit". Then if you decide to go 351w later, you can use the heads on it to, just a thought.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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If I could get them to substitute a different cam in there, what one would be best?
The factory camshaft is, really, hard to beat. It's one of the last things to change on these engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, thanks all. So is intake manifold upgrade important alongside the heads and no cam upgrade?
 

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Which TFS heads should we purchase? Are Track Heat 185s too much?
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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For a 5.0L in a truck? Yes, IMO. 5.0L engines don't need a 2.02-inch intake valve in a low-end torque setup.
 

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got that same kit on my 91 lx mustang, i'm happy with it in my mustang. the motor was a fresh rebuild when i put it on, its pretty quick in the mustang but i dont know that i would want it in a big automatic bronco.
 

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MARBLE GARGLER!
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Zseeses, No electric waterpump ! you will be automatically forgiven for that cause it was your first time-
 

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What about the Twisted Wedge 170 heads? Still too much cylinder head for our trucks?
 
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