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I know, search, search, search... and I have, and I've seen a number of threads saying 'change the fluid in your tranny.'

I've also seen the countless number of times Sixlitre has recommended the external, in-line trans-filter, and cooler. (I'll do that soon) And the discussions on 'to flush or not to flush.'

But I'm looking for a tech write-up on how to change the trans fluid, and the various options when the pan is dropped (like to drain the converter or not, to run through the gears to clean the fluid out, and of course to replace the internal filter).

Anyone know of such a thread or write up because I can't seem to locate one?

Thanks.
 

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I have not seen one either. I would like to see one on adding the external filter and cooler. I dont feel comfortable doing auto work without the pics. Usually I use my haynes manual for most jobs, but it doesnt always have pics and the ones it has are in black and white and arent always that clear either.
 

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Nando said:
I know, search, search, search... and I have, and I've seen a number of threads saying 'change the fluid in your tranny.'

I've also seen the countless number of times Sixlitre has recommended the external, in-line trans-filter, and cooler. (I'll do that soon) And the discussions on 'to flush or not to flush.'

But I'm looking for a tech write-up on how to change the trans fluid, and the various options when the pan is dropped (like to drain the converter or not, to run through the gears to clean the fluid out, and of course to replace the internal filter).

Anyone know of such a thread or write up because I can't seem to locate one?

Thanks.

Ask and y'all shall receive

Trust ol' Sixlitre to have a trans fluid/filter change write up. I actually have two for AODs. The AOD in the Bronco;

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=4970&s=18723#content

and the AOD in the Lincoln;

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=9371&s=27228#content

Also pay attention to the write ups above and below these write ups on my SuperMotors page for ones on; the drain plug install, and of course the remote trans filters.

Mogley

Check out the Lincoln one as it shows more on the plumbing of the remote filter and cooler;

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=4970&s=17326#content

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=9371&s=27528#content

I know you've probably got the newer trans than the AOD, but still it's 99% similar.

Hope it helps y'all

Sixlitre

p.s./
Instead of paying too much for a trans pan with a drain plug, save the money and spend it on remote filter AND cooler. They'll probably cost less together than the chrome pan with the plug. You can still do your own drain plug for $2.00 with these and your neighbour welding;



So next time you don't get the "hot oil red hair conditioning" next time;

 

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Nando said:
I know, search, search, search... and I have, and I've seen a number of threads saying 'change the fluid in your tranny.'

I've also seen the countless number of times Sixlitre has recommended the external, in-line trans-filter, and cooler. (I'll do that soon) And the discussions on 'to flush or not to flush.'

But I'm looking for a tech write-up on how to change the trans fluid, and the various options when the pan is dropped (like to drain the converter or not, to run through the gears to clean the fluid out, and of course to replace the internal filter).

Anyone know of such a thread or write up because I can't seem to locate one?

Thanks.
yes, there are many threads about this. And as you know you then get into a hundred different opinions on what all to do. bottom line for me is this: KISS

1) get big catch basin for all the fluid that will start leaking out as you,
2) begin to loosen all the bolts in pan...start getting them all loose, then start loosening the rearmost ones more, so the pan tips slightly. This allows the majority of the fluid to be directed to the back, where it can be caught in the pan.
3) Once you have most of it drained, get the remaining bolts out, there will likely be more fluid in the bottom of the pan, so use caution. It's always messy without a drain plug (this is option 1 highly recommended by folks).
4) with pan off, notate how the filter is sitting, and then slowly pull/turn the filter holding the upper neck portion. this is all that's actually holding it. The neck goes up into a round hole in the E4OD, and has a rubber seal on the outside of the neck. MAKE SURE you get that rubber seal along with the filter, it will sometimes stick up in the hole.
5) next option, to drain the torque convertor or not. I choose not to.
6) make sure you bought a good kit like NAPA sells ($37) that includes new german made filter and rubber type gasket.
7) clean sufaces on the tranny where the pan seals, and clean the pan itself. Make sure no leftover gasket material is present, make sure you have not bent the pan sealing lip, and make sure you clean inside the pan with brake cleaner, and the magnet is cleaned of metallic particles. let dry before reinstalling.
8) Make sure the new gasket fits correctly,
9) install new filter, making sure the neck goes up into the hole completely and is faced correctly.
10) reinstall pan, tighten bolts to 10-12 ft/lbs (this isn't much, so DO NOT overtighten), in a criss-cross type of even pattern. Remember, you are tightening into aluminum threads, it does not take much to strip. This is one of the biggest concerns, and why i tend to stick to doing this only about every 3 yrs (20k for me).
11) refill, begin by putting about 6 qts of the recommended Dexron in (I use a DexronIII/Mercon w/shudder protection by Valvoline. You will need to add more if you took the option of draining the torque convertor.
12) start truck, check for leaks, let it warm a little while running through gears, and soon check for fluid level while running.
13) continue to repeat step 12, adding fluid. Be careful, don't add too much too fast. If you aren't changing the Tconvertor fluid, I think mine usually only takes close to 8 qts. (yours may vary depending on tranny cooler (I have one), but you don't want to overfill. Once in the crosshatch area, take it for a drive, again be looking for leaks, it can happen after a new gasket. check fluid level again, as long as in crosshatch area, don't overfill.
 

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Sixlitre said:
Ask and y'all shall receive

Trust ol' Sixlitre to have a trans fluid/filter change write up. I actually have two for AODs. The AOD in the Bronco;

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=4970&s=18723#content

and the AOD in the Lincoln;

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=9371&s=27228#content

Also pay attention to the write ups above and below these write ups on my SuperMotors page for ones on; the drain plug install, and of course the remote trans filters.

Mogley

Check out the Lincoln one as it shows more on the plumbing of the remote filter and cooler;

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=4970&s=17326#content

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=9371&s=27528#content

I know you've probably got the newer trans than the AOD, but still it's 99% similar.

Hope it helps y'all

Sixlitre

p.s./
Instead of paying too much for a trans pan with a drain plug, save the money and spend it on remote filter AND cooler. They'll probably cost less together than the chrome pan with the plug. You can still do your own drain plug for $2.00 with these and your neighbour welding;



So next time you don't get the "hot oil red hair conditioning" next time;

I undestand everything on the remote filter but the plumbing of it, Could you just elaborate a little more on that? Thanks
 

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bronco lover said:
I undestand everything on the remote filter but the plumbing of it, Could you just elaborate a little more on that? Thanks
Okay, I'll try

Basically the trans fluid, on an AOD, leaves the trans and heads for the rad from the front-most fitting/line on the AOD. The rear-most fitting is where it comes back into an AOD.

Realize that the ATF (fluid) is at it's hottest as it leaves the trans and heads for the in-rad cooling loop. Without a large cooler, that ATF can be significantly hotter than our typically 195 degree engine coolant in the rad.

For that reason, if you're in the snow belt I'd leave the fluid running through the rad and let the rad suck the heat down to 195 at least. In Winter it's also important to heat the ATF back up with the rad coolant too, in my experience.

What you want to do follow the steel line from the front-most fitting on the AOD, through the rad and out the other fitting on the rad and "THERE" is where you cut the line !

Somewhere between the "output" fitting on the rad, and before the line turns under the engine to head back to the rear-most AOD fitting, THAT"S WHERE YOU INTERUPT THE LINE. Cut it to suit your truck, keeping it away from busy areas on your truck.

AT that point you slip ATF hose over the cut line from the rad and run it to your huge stacked plate style B&M cooler. On the other nipple of the cooler you run more hose straight onto the remote filter's nipple where it's labelled "IN" (Look close in pic);



From the remote filter's nipple that is labelled "OUT" you run ATF hose back to the other part of the steel line you cut. Loop complete ! All you have done is cut and interupted the line from the rad back to the rear-most fitting on the AOD.

Ever want to return it the way it was ? you've cut one steel line. Just slip 2" of ATF hose and couple of clamps onto the line and you're good to go !

Personally I double clamp each hose connection, opposing the clamps so you tighten one from 360 and one from 180 degrees.

You know where I mounted my remote already. IMO it's perfect there on the passenger's inner frame rail. Out of the way of everything, yet easy to reach without even having to crawl right under the truck.

Just drill and tap threads into the frame rail and bolt her on;



I went into detail on the plumbing for you, but if anything is still not clear, just ask away.

Sixlitre

p.s./
Just to recap your hot ATF leaves the trans good and hot, gets cooled down to 195 by the in-rad cooler, passes through the stacked plate cooler out front and get's severely cooler, then goes through the remote filter and housing, probably cooling down even more, before returning to the AOD.
 

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green ones make me horny
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let me get this straight. you tapped into the line that goes from your tranny to your radiator? for both the cooler and the remote filter? I thouhgt you were supposed to put the cooler in before it went back to the tranny and the remote filter right when it came out, so it wont contaminnate your cooler or radiator? Well that is how i am going to do it when i get off my lazy ass and get her done

ken
 

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imlikeojnow said:
let me get this straight. you tapped into the line that goes from your tranny to your radiator? for both the cooler and the remote filter? I thouhgt you were supposed to put the cooler in before it went back to the tranny and the remote filter right when it came out, so it wont contaminnate your cooler or radiator? Well that is how i am going to do it when i get off my lazy ass and get her done

ken
Almost Ken

No I tapped into (interupted) the line "that goes from the rad back to the tranny";

For lack of a Bronco shot, here's a pic of the line on the AOD equipped Lincoln Town Car, which I did it to as well;



Clear as mud yet ?

You are partially correct "you are supposed to put the cooler in before it goes back to the tranny, BUT you don't have to put the remote filter right where it comes out. I purposely chose to put it after the cooler and before it returns to the trans return line.

Who cares if it contaminates your cooler or radiator? It's your trans you need to protect. Besides the contaminates will go once around, when you install it, and then be trapped in the filter.

That's why I change the filter once the first week, instead of waiting a month or more, as it will fill up fast at first and then hardly at all once it's cleaned your tranny's life blood.

Don't get spooked, it really is pie and every week you wait you're AOD is getting dirtier !

Sixlitre
 

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green ones make me horny
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Sixlitre said:
Almost Ken

No I tapped into (interupted) the line "that goes from the rad back to the tranny";

For lack of a Bronco shot, here's a pic of the line on the AOD equipped Lincoln Town Car, which I did it to as well;



Clear as mud yet ?

You are partially correct "you are supposed to put the cooler in before it goes back to the tranny, BUT you don't have to put the remote filter right where it comes out. I purposely chose to put it after the cooler and before it returns to the trans return line.

Who cares if it contaminates your cooler or radiator? It's your trans you need to protect. Besides the contaminates will go once around, when you install it, and then be trapped in the filter.

That's why I change the filter once the first week, instead of waiting a month or more, as it will fill up fast at first and then hardly at all once it's cleaned your tranny's life blood.

Don't get spooked, it really is pie and every week you wait you're AOD is getting dirtier !

Sixlitre
Im not spooked just busy and lazy. I got the E4OD anyways. Well hey when you say the In port. that is the line coming from the cooler then right and the out runs to the line going back to the tranny. That sounds about right. Well when i pull the engine i am going to put this thing in, cause i am planning on cleaning the engine bay up whilst the engine is out anyways
 

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imlikeojnow said:
Im not spooked just busy and lazy. I got the E4OD anyways. Well hey when you say the In port. that is the line coming from the cooler then right and the out runs to the line going back to the tranny. That sounds about right. Well when i pull the engine i am going to put this thing in, cause i am planning on cleaning the engine bay up whilst the engine is out anyways
By Jove you've got it !

Don't wait that long. It takes less than an hour to hook up once you've mounted the cooler and remote filter housing (which I did first).

Sixlitre
 

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well it doesnt really matter cause the bronco aint moving right now. after i do the engine swap i am going to hook this up as well. along with some other crap.

ken
 

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imlikeojnow said:
well it doesnt really matter cause the bronco aint moving right now. after i do the engine swap i am going to hook this up as well. along with some other crap.

ken
Arr har !

That makes a whole lotta sense, put that way

Good luck

Sixlitre
 

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Sixlitre said:
By Jove you've got it !

Don't wait that long. It takes less than an hour to hook up once you've mounted the cooler and remote filter housing (which I did first).

Sixlitre
Thanks for that plumbing description earlier, I just have a few more questions. So the line that goes back to the transmission from the cooler is the one that I want to cut? And I just clamp the hose right over it? Thanks for all of your help
 

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bronco lover said:
Thanks for that plumbing description earlier, I just have a few more questions. So the line that goes back to the transmission from the cooler is the one that I want to cut? And I just clamp the hose right over it? Thanks for all of your help

yes that is the line you will be interuppting to plumb your cooler and filter
 

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bronco lover said:
Thanks for that plumbing description earlier, I just have a few more questions. So the line that goes back to the transmission from the cooler is the one that I want to cut? And I just clamp the hose right over it? Thanks for all of your help
You betcha !

For my application, on the Lincoln in the pic, once I'd cut it I just loosened the fitting and rotated the stub from the rad to suit the angle I wanted to slip the hose over.

From there it goes through the cooler, then through the remote filter, then back to the other part of the pipe you cut.

So you're only really interupting the line from the rad back to the trans. In other words the rad cooled it down to at least 195 (engine water temp), then you pass through the cooler drawing way more heat out of it, then through the remote filter and housing taking probably even a bit mo' heat out of it, then it get's back to the trans nice and cool and clean.

Got it ?

Sixlitre
 

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Quick question for you Six-

Did you flare the ends of the lines where you cut it before slipping the rubber hose over the cut ends? I'm a bit worried that the rubber hose won't have much other than the clamps holding it onto the steel lines. Is something I should worry about at all?
 

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Blue'87GT said:
Quick question for you Six-

Did you flare the ends of the lines where you cut it before slipping the rubber hose over the cut ends? I'm a bit worried that the rubber hose won't have much other than the clamps holding it onto the steel lines. Is something I should worry about at all?

I dont think he does, that why he puts two clamps on it. Whenever i cut steel lines i break out the ole double flaring tool and then clamp
 

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imlikeojnow said:
I dont think he does, that why he puts two clamps on it. Whenever i cut steel lines i break out the ole double flaring tool and then clamp
you guessed right

my lines do not get flared. Two clamps per nipple and they go into battle au naturale !

No leaks yet, touch wood it's only been 6 years.

Sixlitre
 

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Sixlitre said:
you guessed right

my lines do not get flared. Two clamps per nipple and they go into battle au naturale !

No leaks yet, touch wood it's only been 6 years.

Sixlitre
Guess I'll leave mine alone then, just a thought. I think that if I have to do any more cutting, then I'll do like oj said and flair the ends just to give them somthing to grab on to.
 
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