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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '88 with a 5.0 that has EFI. My BKO caught on fire and burned up the engine wiring harness and lots of various parts.
I have been searching this topic for a couple of weeks now on here and on the net. I have decided that I will swap out the EFI and put on a carb. I need to hear from people that have actually done this.
I'm not looking to start another debate on which is better (carb or EFI), as that seems to be where most of these threads lead.
I need to know exactually what needs to be changed. What distributor and ignition setup did you run?
From what i've gathered. I need to change the intake, carb (not more than 600 cfm), dist. and ignition, I'm gonna use a holley red fuel pump with the 7 psi. I have a 3 speed auto. So, what i've read is, that it is not computer controlled, and there should be no problem there.
I'm just looking for someone that has done this that could field a few questions that i will have through this process.
Inspection will not be a problem as we don't have emissions testing here where i'm at. Off camber will not be a problem as I do no rock crawling and no major hill climbing. My j10 with a carb does great on any of the stuff i climb around here. Mainly it will be used as a trail rig with a little highway use.
I'm ready to get started on gathering parts and such, and need to see if there is anything that i'm overlooking.
thanks for any help,
mike
 

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Either a point distributor from a 289/302. Or a duraspark II. They are pretty easy to install. I have used them when swaping to an electronic dizzy from points. Only two wires to hook to the truck. Get the module with the BLUE strain relief. ANd the harness from the box to the dizzy. Then its just a matter of two "HOTS" to the box on the other plug
 

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Like stated will need carb and intake, the 600 cfm will be fine. However the 7psi will be a little high, need closer to 4-5 psi on most of your 600 carbs, the needle/seat setup is usually not ment to be run any more than the 4-5 psi.

I would just go with a MSD distributor such as MSD-8479 (summit part numbers) ignition box MSD-6420 and coil MSD-8207 , that will take care of your ignition system. Will need whatever style ignition wires that the MSD cap takes.

Will also need to look at what you are going to use for fuel line, rubber line is asking for trouble, I suggest going braided Also will need to figure out how to either convert current fuel feed line to fuel pump or get an intank pickup and run all new line. Will need some type of adapter to attach the braided line to the carb.

Air cleaner, with the ability to setup some type of breather system if you dont run breathers in the valve covers

Also will need to figure out what you are going to do for vacuum sources, have to look at that on the carb and intake, some vacuum is ported and some is source. You also need to figure out your PCV setup, or else you start blowing gaskets out and having oil leaks

I am sure there is something I am forgetting
 

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I still have to ask why though? CAn you not just get a new boneyard harness for the burned up one and be done. Instead off swapping all this other stuff and not be better off?
 

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cadaver said:
I still have to ask why though? CAn you not just get a new boneyard harness for the burned up one and be done. Instead off swapping all this other stuff and not be better off?


I have to agree, going carb will probably cost more money than even buying something like







PRF-60511 $475.95
Estimated Ship Date: Today
Application Show All

Brand: Painless Wiring
Product Line: Painless Performance Fuel Injection Harnesses
Injection Style: Multi-port
Metering Style: Mass airflow
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: Wiring harness is an additional 4 foot longer.

Wiring Harness, EFI Transplant, Ford Mustang 5.0/5.8L MAF 1986-95, Ext.Length

Check to make sure this part fits your application
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For maximum power with exceptional drive-ability, transplant the power of fuel injection into your vehicle with Painless Performance fuel injection harnesses. All kits include straight forward instructions and TXL high temp, color-coded and labeled wire for ease of installation. All fuel injection harnesses are 100 percent quality tested on OmniScanners to ensure viability of circuits. Harnesses for both GM and Ford applications are available and use genuine original equipment connectors for trouble-free installation and operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
cadaver said:
I still have to ask why though? CAn you not just get a new boneyard harness for the burned up one and be done. Instead off swapping all this other stuff and not be better off?



the reason is that the fire burned more than just the harness. burned all kinds of crap on the drivers side. the harness under the bronco, and part of the harness under the dash. the steering column had flames coming out of it. the fuel line that ruptured burned all the way back to the frame mounted fuel pump (ruining it). the money to replace all the stuff that burned will cost more than what i'm figuring to be around a 1000.00 bucks to convert the thing to a carb.
as far as the rest of the wiring. i'm gonna make a real simple harness for lights and gauges and such. more or less rip out all the wiring and start over fresh and very simple. ;)
 

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for a 1000.00 are you buying used parts?

When I converted my Mustang, I thought it would be cheap, but it ended up going a little more than double what I had planed on spending.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cobra#3747 said:
for a 1000.00 are you buying used parts?

When I converted my Mustang, I thought it would be cheap, but it ended up going a little more than double what I had planed on spending.


air gap intake- 175.00
holley 600- 175.00
msd-6al- 200.00
msd dist- 200.00
holley red- 100.00

all are brand new. i know there will be other stuff to buy. fuel lines, filters, converting tank for what i need. i'm sure it will be more than a 1000.00 bucks. that was a rough estimate. junk yards are not in abundance around here. like there are none within 100 miles. this stuff is brand new if i bought stuff to fix efi it would all be used.
there are just way too many things to try and save the efi. especially with my budget.
i can switch to a carb and drive the thing.
 

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You could probably buy a whole bronco for half that with a whole wack of extra good parts to strip off of it.
 

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I got an EFI...dont see no reason to convert to Carb...hill climbing alone will make the carb useless....My apologies to the carbed guys!
 

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those prices are way high. just get a edelbrock intake. edelbrock carb and procomp distributor, and your done. well as long as you dont need the computer for the tranny. but

edelbrock intake: $120 EBAY
edelbrock 650cfm carb. $250 AZ Pepboys
procomp distributor HEI $100 (contains coil and ignition module as a pkg) EBAY

well thats what my 85 bronco uses. i also have my old duraspark II ignition sitting in my camper im willing to sell. has the distributor/coil/ign module and most if nto all of the wiring harness.

i have no problem with my carb setup. i dont have to worry about pesky sensors going. either it works or it dont. gotta love carb :thumbup btw i love efi also i just love it when its working 100%. i can trouble shoot a carb setup in a matter of minuters as apposed to efi where you need to look up codes. then if your lucky enough to get to the sensor to change it. plus i have the ability to put a body under my hood. :rockon
 

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Dude, go find a wrecked donor truck and fix your EFI. Youll be way ahead in every respect. I changed my Mustang GT to carb, bigger mistake than my marriage! :doh0715:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, call me hard headed if ya want. But, I'm switching to a carb. This is why I said this was for people that have done it. And I didn't want to start another tired debate on which is better.
Not trying to ruffle feathers. But, I'm not changing my mind. There are to many other factors.
Thanks,
mike
 

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MIKENTX said:
Well, call me hard headed if ya want. But, I'm switching to a carb. This is why I said this was for people that have done it. And I didn't want to start another tired debate on which is better.
Not trying to ruffle feathers. But, I'm not changing my mind. There are to many other factors.
Thanks,
mike
so than what exactly are you after here? Do you just want a bunch of people to speak up and say, hey I did that already, it cost as much as 3x more than buying a donor truck but hey, overall, I'm very happy with my over priced carbed conversion. :twak
 

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It sounds like you had a pretty bad fire. What's it look like? From the sound of it you may be better off buying a new used rig and using the old one for parts. carbing the engine is the easy part. Either way you go I'd get a complete harness from the setup you plan on doing. For carb I'd go with the harness, distributor, module, and intake from a carb'd 302. If flames came up the column I imagine all those wires are fried too. I'd go with a push button ignition and maybe a key switch if you still need to secure the vehicle. Otherwise a toggle will work for the ignition signal. I wish you luck! What caused the fire?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah i was planning to go with a push button.
The hard plastic fuel line ruptured and spayed the exhaust and poof.
It burned the drivers side of the engine compartment. The wire harness from the engine through to the computer. Caught the carpet on fire and burned under the dash. The harness under the truck got burned back to where the frame mounted fuel pump is.
This thing will not be a daily driver. But, will need to be able to get on the highway at times. Bronco's are scarce here. You can't find one in any of the junk yards. Closest one is 70 miles and nothing that will work on mine.
The thing still looks awesome with the exception of a spot about the size of a basketball on the hood from the fire. Just seems ashamed not to get this one going. The motor has less than 5,000 miles on it. So, don't want to swap it out. I have had this thing looked at by two different shops in the next town. Now after 220 bucks in towing and 175.00 in diagnostic and estimates just on the parts (new not used) A carbed system is the way for me to go.
It just baffles me that people would put used electrical parts on a truck that they are gonna be taking out in the middle of nowhere. Not me I'll buy brand new carb stuff and be confident in the way it runs. I'm sure there are stories out there where people have bought used stuff and ran for years trouble free.
I never had that kind of luck myself.
Anywho, sorry I went on a rant. Just mystifies me why I feel like I need to explain myself for my choice. Hell, if somebody wanted to put a toyota motor in their bronco. I'd try to help all I could. But, hell. That's just me.
 
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