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Discussion Starter #1
I am gathering up my parts and starting the work. Just to let everyone know this is going to be a slow build, just got done with school and student loans are killing me. So I have two matching dana 60s out of a 79 snowfighter, gearing. I also got the NP 205 out of the same truck. Right now I am rebuilding the axles as some of you have seen some of questions. I just purchased a "6 chevy leaf springs front and rear for $100 along with the shocks. The rear spring is 56" inch kind. I thing I am going to keep the short chevy front in hopes I can mount it close to flush under my front bumper/skidplate. Any help would be appreciated and if you see something you would do differently let me know. Thanks.
Here is axle and parts. I am not going to re gear until after the SAS and more money so I can do it right with ARBs front in back:



Here are the leaf springs (Black one are the chevy ones):

 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I have some questions now about my front crossmember. I am going to do a similar design as many others, why redesign wheel. I have a 79 60 so I have the 32" spacing. I am going to try to place the crossmember under the frame with the perches welded to it. Now here is the issue I have made some modifications to my frame horns to increase my approach angle with my custom bumper. see photo:
I have lost a couple of inches off the frame. I have chevy front springs which measure about 22" from the center pin short side and 23.5" long side that I am using to help with the short frame. Here are measurements of my current frame, see photo:
My question is this will the leaves work with my bumper or should I ditch it, or should I try to incorporate the crossmember into the bumper? Any suggestions here, or any different ideas? Another question which is a dumb one so to get the front crossmember location I should measure to the center of the leaf to the bushing and take that distance and measure from the center of where my axle is going to be, and measure out and that should give it me right? I know this is a lot and probably a little confusing but some help would be great. Thanks.
 

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Sorry, I was gonna reply the other day when you posted but got sidetracked. You're gonna lose your bumper's approach angle when you weld a leafspring crossmember under the frame horns. I'll have to check my notes on my leafspring measurements, but do remember needing to move the x-mbr s far forward as possible to center the axle and get a reasonable caster angle. I'll get a pick up in a bit, JSM84



The x-mbr is 4"x2"x1/4" steel, and just forward of the front body mount on the very edge of the frame horn. Using an 88 Dana60 with stock leaf springs.
 

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The stock F-350 leafs I'm using are 23" center to front of the axle or short side, and 28" long side or behind the axle. The 6" lifted pack i plan to install later is 25"/27" respectively. If you have 46" long GM leafs, that should help out your caster angle a bunch compared to 52's or 54's.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Justshootme:

So i guess if yours were about 23" from the center and mine are about 22" then I can just move the x-member back an inch under the body mount, right? I see you welded your x-member to frame, did you bolt it also? I would prefer to weld mine also any pros and cons to that one?

Mike:

Once it gets warmer I plan on starting it, I just moved here from FL and its a little cold for me to do some serious wrenching. That would be sweet to do two 60 swaps at the same time. It would make for a killer write up. You keeping the coils or going leaf?
 

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good luck, if you need a hand i would be interested in helping. i have just got most of my parts around and should be starting to tear into mine tomorrow. its not cold here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Scott, I may take you up on that offer. And like wise if you need some help let me know, I will see what I can do.
 

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Justshootme:

So i guess if yours were about 23" from the center and mine are about 22" then I can just move the x-member back an inch under the body mount, right? I see you welded your x-member to frame, did you bolt it also? I would prefer to weld mine also any pros and cons to that one?

Mike:

Once it gets warmer I plan on starting it, I just moved here from FL and its a little cold for me to do some serious wrenching. That would be sweet to do two 60 swaps at the same time. It would make for a killer write up. You keeping the coils or going leaf?
Little cold up here for ya? :rofl: :toothless

I think im gonna stay coil...not sure yet...should prob start researching it more...:drinkbud
 

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Justshootme:

So i guess if yours were about 23" from the center and mine are about 22" then I can just move the x-member back an inch under the body mount, right? I see you welded your x-member to frame, did you bolt it also? I would prefer to weld mine also any pros and cons to that one?


I would try to keep the x-mbr as far forward as possible, both to keep your axle centered or slightly forward and the big tires away from the firewall. I ran a bolt thru the top of the x-mbr on each side, and ran it through the two holes for the factory sway bar. (You may have cut that area out for your bumper). I first had the two bolts in the back hole on each side, then moved to the front holes (about 2"). I needed to figure out where the rear shackle mount was going to go on the frame. The #2 body mount bracket is in that same area, as well as my outriggers for the rollcage. Once I was happy with everything, I welded the hella out of the x-mbr to the frame and added plate steel underneath with gussets inside the boxxed frame horns. I generally try to bolt any brackets to the frame where i can, and then tack weld them for added strength. In the case of the front x-mbr, I suggest fully welding it. In your case, you may need to add some plate steel to your chopped frame horns once the new x-mbr is mounted up. You can either bolt it in first, or just tack it in place. If you need to move it, just have to grind a few small tack welds. Lastly, I had to re-read the "God of Leaf SAS thread" about 13 times to gather all the valuable info. I also looked at Txtaurus74's and Swamp Donkey's SFo galleries. Lightning was also a big help throuh PM's. Once you get the axle under the Bronco with the leaf springs mocked in place, you should see how everything works, and that it's very simple to install the leaf SAS. Hopefully, you'll also get some "love" from other members, Randy JSM84
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is what I came up with for the cross member with my shortened frame horns. Basically, cutting away some of the frame placing in the 2"x4" and then boxing in the frame around it (see photo) for more support and tack the spring perches of the cross member. I would put the cross member on the bottom of the bottom of the frame. So before I go hacking into this thing I wanted some feedback, let me know. You think this will be strong enough for the weight of the front end?

 

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Looks good to me. So long as you box in the ends of the frames as it appears you will be doing, you should be good to go.
 

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the bruise
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I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT SAS'S, however i would highly suggest that you wait a little longer, and do the gears/lockers before you have it under the truck. in the long run it will be at least $1000 cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Why do you say that? I am guessing because the axles are not under the truck and are easier to move around? I just can't see it being $1000 difference, more info please.
 

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the bruise
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are you doing gears and lockers yourself? if you are having sombody do it for you it will cost about that much to pull the front and rearend out, and put them back in. unless you will be pulling the axles out yourself, to bring to somebody. the thing is though, will you want to do all that again after you just put it all together?

when i did my lift, that was my plan too. put my lift on, and then when i had more money, tear it apart again and bring it too somebody. well i got to taking off the tires and say F*** this and dropped the truck off, and just paid the money. its just a suggestion though. it will be so much easier and cheaper to do it all together.

please don't take this the wrong way, because i am not trying to insult your mechanical knowledge, but you know that you have to take the axles out to do gears and lockers right?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No offense taken, yeah I know that I am going to have to pull it apart again, I plan on doing it like a year or less after the SAS. The biggest concern is money now. I do not have the money to do my lockers and I really want to run selectable lockers. I have a locked rear axle now and I drive on the street to get to and from the places I off road and I can not stand the chirping. I am planning on my neighbor and I to set up my gears and lockers for me at a later date. I really wish I could do the gears and lockers now but I do not have $2000-3000 laying around especially after the SAS.
 

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the bruise
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yeah i understand. thats what i did also, and it was just a suggestion, just in case you weren't aware of the added cost.

you know, people always talk about chirping w/ their locker. mine never makes my tires do that... my only explanation is that my tires are so soft, that they absorb a lot of that movement.

well good luck with the swap, make sure you chime in with some tips when i go to do mine.
 
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