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Discussion Starter #1
Traced my non operational 4x4 to the automatic hubs not working. It appears everyone suggests going to manual hubs and warn or mile marker are the most popular options and premium vs std is a personal preference if u want plastic or metal switch and 1/2 vs 7/8 turn. Is it more work going from auto to manual vs auto to auto or is the job relatively similar. I dont need to mess with the transfer case or axle when going auto to manual do i?

Any of tips or hints i should know before i decide which hubs to go with? Its a 94 xlt w automatic 302 6" rough country and 35s. Very limited off road use but i live in Maine and we get decent winters so 4x gets used a lot in the morning commute.
Thanks all
 

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Go w/ the premium version, either brand. The swap is easy, and there are guides on here to help, just do a search.

Do yourself a favor and add your bronc's info over
<~~~~~ there in the user cp under settings/edit avatar.

That way you dont have to explain what you have every time you post. ;)
 

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Any of tips or hints i should know before i decide which hubs to go with? Its a 94 xlt w automatic 302 6" rough country and 35s. Very limited off road use but i live in Maine and we get decent winters so 4x gets used a lot in the morning commute.
Thanks all
yo;
by Ford; "Road Test

When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging 4-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance.

Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will make sure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will pop out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction.

If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle shaft with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced.


Should hublocks become submerged in water or mud for a long period of time, water may get past the seals and into the hubs and axle. In this case, all water must be expelled from the system. The axle must be drained by loosening the axle cover and 4x4 Gear Oil F1TZ-19580-A (WSL-M2C191-A) used to refill the axle (F1TZ-19580-A has no equivalent). Disassemble the hubs using procedures in this section and repack the wheel bearings using procedures in this section and dry off the hublocks. Reassemble hubs using procedures in this section. Refer to Section 05-03A or Section 05-03B for replacement of outer axle shaft seals or spindle inner seal and bearing"

from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual (PARTIAL); same as your 95 for 3 screw hubs
Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
Inspection and Verification

•Popping Sound from Front Axle When in Four-Wheel Drive
•Right or left side hublock.
•REPLACE hublocks as necessary and INSPECT associated camming. REPLACE camming if damaged

Pull 3 screw cover off and check for over lubrication or grit; clean and dip hub in trans fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks! Quick unrelated question. Should i loc tite the bolts for the wheel spacers im putting on right now? Thought i read it somewhere but i cant find the thread by searching. Thanks, truck is on jack stands right now
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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Quoted below is some more reading on the hub swap. Links 1, 2, & 3 might help to figure it all out, although it sounds like you already have #1 covered. Links 9-12 cover 3 bolt auto to manual swaps, which should be correct for a stock 95. 3 bolt autos to manual hubs require either the conversion kit or junkyard nuts from 5 bolt autos or manuals. And you are correct, no need to do anything to the t-case or axle to do the swap. No electronics or vacuum is involved with the operation of these auto hubs. Axle rotation is supposed to cause them to engage.

From Baba Looey's Favorites:
Hubs, General Info
1-How do I know if automatic hubs are working properly? Gacknar gives the auto hub test in post 2. Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st.
2-Warn Hub Premium Assembly Bossind -Exploded view of Warn premiums.
3-http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/61420C0-pn20990.pdf -Warn instructions for removing assorted types of auto hubs & installing manual hubs. Includes exploded diagrams. Link provided by miesk5.

Hubs, Manual Replacement
4-Warn Premium Install Andy351 -Manual to manual swap.

Hubs, 5 Bolt Autos to Manuals
5-Auto to Manual Hub Conversion Writeup 90Beater's site.
(These 3 threads appear to be the same auto to manual write-up, but the rest of the info is also useful.)
6-Manual Hub Swap JD_Bronco
7-Changing Auto hubs to Warn Manual Hub complete instructions with pics godless
8-Install Warn manual hubs MyFullSize The link in post 1 is gone, but the info still applies.

Hubs, 3 Bolt Autos to Manuals
9-3-Bolt Auto hub conversion Froggmann's site. (This site appears to be gone as of 4/12/14. The Wayback machine has the text without the pics here)
10-3 screw auto to manual hub conversion ScottMoore
11-warn hubs -Junkyard parts instead of a conversion kit.
12-Hectic Hub Install stan the man -Specifics on the conversion kit, & which nuts & rings to use.

Hubs, Top Hat (87 to Early 88 Manual Hubs Only)
13-New Hub install Question Steve83 explains options in posts 2 & 5.
14-Knuckle out conversion manual locking hubs B-man's Supermotors pics & info on swapping top hats to Warn premiums.
15-88 flange mount hubs Steve83's link to an exploded view in post 14.
No help on the loctite question. :shrug I've never used wheel spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks guys. My 94 has 5 screw auto hub covers. Gonna order a set today. What are the majority of people going with? Warn or Mile Marker?
thanks
 

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thanks guys. My 94 has 5 screw auto hub covers. Gonna order a set today. What are the majority of people going with? Warn or Mile Marker?
thanks
Fyi, I saw a set of used warn premiums in fsb classifieds.....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks Gville...unfortunately I don't have enough posts yet to view classifieds haha. That's a silly rule.
 

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1995 XLT SAS w D44 and D60 rear
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I like my Warns. I bought locally and have had them replaced under warranty a couple of times. That makes to price difference of buying local worth while. (we will not mention that when I bought them buying on-line was not an option.:brownbag)
 

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The Warn standards have the same warranty and are available at dang near any parts store worth a grain of salt. The part # was 9790 for my 93. If you have the 5 screw autos, they are a direct bolt on. Anything else and you'll have to get the adapter.
The Warns are also readily available in a lot of junkyards.
 
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