I've considered doing it...it'll be a PITA though. You have to basically change everything but the glass out though. Your best bet would be to find a donor with everything you need...it'd suck to piece it all together...
Automatic to manual window conversion.
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I bought the manual window regulators and handles from JBG.
REMOVAL:
Drill out the three rivets holding in the power window regulator, detach the cabling, slide the roller out of the window's track, and remove the whole shebang from the door.
INSALLATION:
Slide the roller of the manual window regulator into the window's track, align the three mounting holes of the manual regulator to the holes in your door (not the same holes as were used w/the power regulator, manual brace arm mounts at an angle), rivet or screw the new manual regulator in place (I used screws, nuts, washers, and blue Loctite I got from Home Depot), mount up you door panel, slide the handle on and screw into place.
NOTES:
LMC truck listed two peices that JGB didn't have, so I ordered them. One is a large spring that goes between the door panel and the door frame to stop flapping/vibrations, the other is a plastic washer that keeps the vinyl door panel from sticking to the back of the handle in the summer. I guess they're not must-haves, but I opted to spend the $4 for a set of each. The manual regulator's "brace arm" (the part that bolts to the door itself) mounts at an angle. The top of the brace arm is angled in the general direction of the door handles, with the bottom of the brace in the opposite corner from the door handles (I'll post picks in the tech write-up, basically around a 20* angle). You WILL need to source some manual door panels if you want it to look right. I picked up a set from an '86 F150 and use that "for plastic and vinyl" spraypaint to do them up in a shiny black. They look gooooood.
All in all, it took me about a solid hour per door. Having done it now, I could probably do both doors in one hour now. It really is that much of a non-issue. :beer
REMOVAL:
Drill out the three rivets holding in the power window regulator, detach the cabling, slide the roller out of the window's track, and remove the whole shebang from the door.
INSALLATION:
Slide the roller of the manual window regulator into the window's track, align the three mounting holes of the manual regulator to the holes in your door (not the same holes as were used w/the power regulator, manual brace arm mounts at an angle), rivet or screw the new manual regulator in place (I used screws, nuts, washers, and blue Loctite I got from Home Depot), mount up you door panel, slide the handle on and screw into place.
NOTES:
LMC truck listed two peices that JGB didn't have, so I ordered them. One is a large spring that goes between the door panel and the door frame to stop flapping/vibrations, the other is a plastic washer that keeps the vinyl door panel from sticking to the back of the handle in the summer. I guess they're not must-haves, but I opted to spend the $4 for a set of each. The manual regulator's "brace arm" (the part that bolts to the door itself) mounts at an angle. The top of the brace arm is angled in the general direction of the door handles, with the bottom of the brace in the opposite corner from the door handles (I'll post picks in the tech write-up, basically around a 20* angle). You WILL need to source some manual door panels if you want it to look right. I picked up a set from an '86 F150 and use that "for plastic and vinyl" spraypaint to do them up in a shiny black. They look gooooood.
All in all, it took me about a solid hour per door. Having done it now, I could probably do both doors in one hour now. It really is that much of a non-issue. :beer
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
