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Rest in Peace Friend...
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Section 11 on Page 10-12 of the Haynes repair manual describes the procedure for replacing the front axle beam bushings using special Ford tools or "equivalent". Good luck finding these tools, as I checked several dealers and parts stores. So, I made my own out of some scraps in the shop:



The 2.5" pipe collar serves as the receiver cup that fits over the bushing, and the 1/2" thick plate serves as a stop or rest for the nut on one side. The 1/2" all-thread is the forcing screw using a nut on each side. (I previously used one 3/8" in size, and promptly broke it in half.) The impact socket serves as the press to push the bushing out of the i-beam. The bushings are pressed into the i-beam and take considerable force to remove and install. They go in and come out in one direction, as they have a lip on one side that is larger than the hole.

After removing the bolt and dropping the i-beam below the crossmember, run the all-thread through the hole. In this pic you can see the old bushing is shot. (The socket actually goes on the side opposite that in the pic, just showing the condition of the old bushing):



Place the socket on the side WITHOUT the metal lip, then slip the pipe collar over the all-thread on the other side, then the plate, then the washers and nuts:



Tighten the nuts on each side until they stop, or about 100-120 ft.lbs. torque. Be sure the socket is centered in the bushing, and the collar is centered over the bushing and snug against the i-beam. On rare occaision, the bushing will pop out into the collar while tightening the nuts. Most times, persuasion is needed. Hit the socket with a sharp blow of a hammer. If the bushing is really stubborn as in this case, several blows are needed. Keep tightening the nuts after a few blows of the hammer:



BINGO!!! The bushing will "pop" as it comes loose. remove the nuts and take apart the tool. The all-thread took a beating, as did the nut and washers from the near side. A new 12" long piece and the nuts & washers cost about $2.50.



If your new bushings have a metal/ outer sleeve, all you need to do is reverse the tool to install them. My Daystar bushings required re-using the sleeve and cutting out the rubber. Press out the inner sleeve in a vice with two sockets and cut, drill or burn out the old rubber. It is very dense and takes 1-2 hours per bushing.

Reverse tool to install new bushing. Snug up the tool, using the hammer only to align the new bushing in the hole in the i-beam. Slowly tighten the nuts, taking care that the bushing goes in straight. Leave 0.210-0.290" (about 1/4") clearance between the lip of the bushing and the side of the i-beam:



Pics are posted at superford.org with brief text as well. Thanks to Tommy R for the hi res pics, JSM84
 

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245 Posts
Me too. My ball joint press was an excellent investment, does rear spring eye bushings and u-joints to.
 

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Geaux Tigers!!
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That rig worked like a charm! Mucho thanks again, JSM! :beer

Tommy
 

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another beer for R!:beer
 

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I have a balljoint press but I made one of these. I have scrap steel and parts trucks and got bored and tried making one. :)

This tool works BETTER than the ball joint press.
 
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